Paragon
Bally, 1979I have a new power supply board for my Bally paragon. The voltages are way off. I tested the rectifiers and all read correctly except for the center rectifier. It does not register any reading at all. I replaced it with a good rectifier and it will not register a reading. Is there something I am missing here? Is there something wrong with the circuit board itself?
Thanks
To test the rectifier I am connecting Black lead to positive and red lead to AC no reading. Red lead to negative black lead to AC no reading.
If I reverse the leads, I.e. Red lead to positive and black to AC I get what appears to be a normal reading. Black to negative and red to AC again appears to be a normal reading.
The other rectifiers on the board test correctly with black to negative and red to AC, red to positive and black to AC.
It did n work properly before which is why I bought a new rectifier board.
The following appear to be mis-wired at the lugs.
18 red gauge wired to lug 1 with a jumper to lug 3
18 gauge yellow at lug 9 with a jumper to 11
There is jumper wire on lug 5 that is cut. Do not know where it was previously connected.
All else is wired correctly
The transformer wiring differs depending on your household line voltage. If the wires go to 1 and 9 with ties from 1-3 and 9-11 it is wired for 115VAC. My example shows it wired for 120VAC where the red and yellow wires go to 1 and 5 with the ties of 1-3 and 5-7.
Quoted from StratDoc:I was texting the resistance of the rectifier. I thought to do that you put the black on positive and red on AC and look for a reading of 500-600.
You mean using diode test? In that case you should get a reading black AC->red positive and black negative to red AC, and no reading if you reverse the leads, but that's when the rectifier is out of the circuit. Which voltage is the center rectifier? Is it a repro or an original bally board? The rectifier for the 5.4V and the 43V have a resistor across them, but the one for 11.9V doesn't, so there's a chance they'd get different readings.
It is reproduction board.
About at my wits end with this pin. I purchased a new board because the old one was in rough shape. I still cannot get voltage readings at any test point other than TP2 on the new board. I also do not get voltage ratings at E wire connectors on the board. I have repinned the plugs for the rectifier board. I have double checked the wiring on the back of the board. Connector to the lugs on the transformer are correct.
How do I test the transformer? Could it be bad?
Testing a transformer requires 2 leads to the lugs, not one to a lug and the other to ground. IE - test at lugs 1 and 9 and see if you get 115vac. if so, then test on the other side according to the schematic. (2 and 6 should show 49vac, 15 and 16 should show 12vac, etc...)
OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.
Note TP4 has to be measured in AC with the other lead on E8
Quoted from StratDoc:TP2 is 135vdc
That's pretty low, what do lugs 8+10 of the transformer measure (AC)? What about E5+6?
Maybe, but not necessarily. It should be stapled to the back ground plane at one end and connected to the ground at your inline filter at the other.
You aren't he greatest!
Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.
Quoted from StratDoc:You aren't he greatest!
Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.
Unplug your displays just in case
Did you try it with only J-3 at first and it was fine and then you added in J-2 and it pops the fuse?
J-2 is your flippers, coin door lock-out and knocker. Nine times out of ten its the knocker. Cut one of the wires to it and try again.
Thank you again for the advice, and it I the J3 plug that is causing f4 to blow, not J2 - sorry for the confusion. I was working on it while having a couple of beverages last evening - or at least that is my excuse for giving the wrong plug.
Here is what I have done so far. Disconnected displays, only J3 is plugged to the solenoid board.
* Replaced two bad transistors on the board q3 and q19 - fuse still blows
* disconnected flippers and cut a wire to the knocker - fuse still blows
* unplugged coin door from inside cabinet - fuse still blows
* rebuilt the solenoid board with full rebuild kits from BigDaddy Enterprises, checked continuity on the two large transisters with heat sinks to make sure they were not touching the heat sink - those things were a bear to install.
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Chattanooga, TN