Rectifier Bally paragon


By StratDoc

7 months ago


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There are 210 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 7 months ago

I have a new power supply board for my Bally paragon. The voltages are way off. I tested the rectifiers and all read correctly except for the center rectifier. It does not register any reading at all. I replaced it with a good rectifier and it will not register a reading. Is there something I am missing here? Is there something wrong with the circuit board itself?

Thanks

#2 7 months ago

To test the rectifier I am connecting Black lead to positive and red lead to AC no reading. Red lead to negative black lead to AC no reading.

If I reverse the leads, I.e. Red lead to positive and black to AC I get what appears to be a normal reading. Black to negative and red to AC again appears to be a normal reading.

The other rectifiers on the board test correctly with black to negative and red to AC, red to positive and black to AC.

#3 7 months ago

1) Did the game work correctly before installing the new board?

2) If you are taking readings with only J-2 attached to the rectifier board the readings will be odd.

3) Check, then double check all of the wiring.

18-49 WIRING TABLE.pdf

Untitled (resized).jpg

#4 7 months ago

It did n work properly before which is why I bought a new rectifier board.
The following appear to be mis-wired at the lugs.

18 red gauge wired to lug 1 with a jumper to lug 3
18 gauge yellow at lug 9 with a jumper to 11

There is jumper wire on lug 5 that is cut. Do not know where it was previously connected.

All else is wired correctly

#5 7 months ago

Why would you put your meter on an ac Lug and a DC Lug? To measure the DC out you should be putting your leads on the + and - sides of the rectifier

#6 7 months ago

I was texting the resistance of the rectifier. I thought to do that you put the black on positive and red on AC and look for a reading of 500-600.

#7 7 months ago

The transformer wiring differs depending on your household line voltage. If the wires go to 1 and 9 with ties from 1-3 and 9-11 it is wired for 115VAC. My example shows it wired for 120VAC where the red and yellow wires go to 1 and 5 with the ties of 1-3 and 5-7.

#8 7 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I was texting the resistance of the rectifier. I thought to do that you put the black on positive and red on AC and look for a reading of 500-600.

You mean using diode test? In that case you should get a reading black AC->red positive and black negative to red AC, and no reading if you reverse the leads, but that's when the rectifier is out of the circuit. Which voltage is the center rectifier? Is it a repro or an original bally board? The rectifier for the 5.4V and the 43V have a resistor across them, but the one for 11.9V doesn't, so there's a chance they'd get different readings.

#9 7 months ago

It is reproduction board.

About at my wits end with this pin. I purchased a new board because the old one was in rough shape. I still cannot get voltage readings at any test point other than TP2 on the new board. I also do not get voltage ratings at E wire connectors on the board. I have repinned the plugs for the rectifier board. I have double checked the wiring on the back of the board. Connector to the lugs on the transformer are correct.

How do I test the transformer? Could it be bad?

#10 7 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I also do not get voltage ratings at E wire connectors on the board

What about at E5+6? They're what provide the 230V at TP2

#11 7 months ago

E5andE6 do show voltage. Sorry. All other E wire connectors do not.

#12 7 months ago

Testing a transformer requires 2 leads to the lugs, not one to a lug and the other to ground. IE - test at lugs 1 and 9 and see if you get 115vac. if so, then test on the other side according to the schematic. (2 and 6 should show 49vac, 15 and 16 should show 12vac, etc...)

#13 7 months ago

Not showing any voltages from the transformer following your steps above and the schematics. The only thing that shows voltage is TP2 and the GI lights in the coin door light.

#14 7 months ago

OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.

#15 7 months ago

TP2 is 135vdc and I am not showing a vac reading at TP4

#16 7 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.

Note TP4 has to be measured in AC with the other lead on E8

Quoted from StratDoc:

TP2 is 135vdc

That's pretty low, what do lugs 8+10 of the transformer measure (AC)? What about E5+6?

#17 7 months ago

Right. I forgot about that TP4 reads 6.6 vac

Been pulling my hair out with this thing.

#18 7 months ago

183 vac on 8&10 e5+e6 183

#19 7 months ago

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#20 7 months ago

Lug 2&6 50vac
Lugs 8&10 180

#21 7 months ago

OK! Without a load those are close enough. Can you measure them on the other side?

#22 7 months ago

Vac on the other side. Which lugs?

#23 7 months ago

13&14 7.8 vac
15&16 12.6 vac
17&18 6.6 vac

#24 7 months ago

Congratulations. Nothing wrong with your transformer.

#25 7 months ago

So when you are checking the TPs on the rectifier board only J-2 hooked up?

#26 7 months ago

Thank you! Well that is good news. Now if I can figure out why no voltages at the test points with a new rectifier board. All fuses test okay.

#27 7 months ago

Yes, only J2 hooked up.

#28 7 months ago

Which board are you using and (I have to ask) you are certain all the fuses are good?

#29 7 months ago

Not sure whose board. It is not altek or Rottendog and does not have a manufacturer's name on it. Fuses check out okay with the mulitmeter

#30 7 months ago

What are you using as ground when you test the test points?

#31 7 months ago

I am using the ribbon cable in the backbox.

I rechecked E vac voltages on the board and they look okay.

#32 7 months ago

So I used the ground connection on the board itself and show correct voltages at all test points except TP1. It reads no volts.

#33 7 months ago

That's better! TP1 gets rectified to DC through the 4 diodes on the side of the board.

#34 7 months ago

Check for voltage on either side of fuse F-1

#35 7 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

That's better! TP1 gets rectified to DC through the 4 diodes on the side of the board.

I thought the diodes were for the HV (TP2)?

#37 7 months ago

Okay, so the damn fuse holder at F1 was not making a good connection. Voltages are as follows

Tp1 6.6
Tp2 175
Tp3 12.8
Tp4 6.6
Tp5 44.5

#38 7 months ago

Strange that it will not register voltages by grounding anywhere other than the ground on the rectifier board.

#40 7 months ago

Does that mean I have a ground issue somewhere with the ribbon cable?

#41 7 months ago

MK1 you are the greatest. I have been messing with this all day.

#42 7 months ago

Maybe, but not necessarily. It should be stapled to the back ground plane at one end and connected to the ground at your inline filter at the other.

#43 7 months ago

Been there, done that, dude. Happy to help.

#44 7 months ago

Something like this. And this is a Space Invaders which is why the power board is in the basement, not the head.

IMG_8883 (resized).JPG

#45 7 months ago

You aren't he greatest!

Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.

#46 7 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

You aren't he greatest!
Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.

Unplug your displays just in case

#47 7 months ago

Did you try it with only J-3 at first and it was fine and then you added in J-2 and it pops the fuse?

#48 7 months ago

J-2 is your flippers, coin door lock-out and knocker. Nine times out of ten its the knocker. Cut one of the wires to it and try again.

#49 7 months ago

Thank you again for the advice, and it I the J3 plug that is causing f4 to blow, not J2 - sorry for the confusion. I was working on it while having a couple of beverages last evening - or at least that is my excuse for giving the wrong plug.

Here is what I have done so far. Disconnected displays, only J3 is plugged to the solenoid board.

* Replaced two bad transistors on the board q3 and q19 - fuse still blows
* disconnected flippers and cut a wire to the knocker - fuse still blows
* unplugged coin door from inside cabinet - fuse still blows
* rebuilt the solenoid board with full rebuild kits from BigDaddy Enterprises, checked continuity on the two large transisters with heat sinks to make sure they were not touching the heat sink - those things were a bear to install.

#50 7 months ago

So only J-2 on the rectifier and J-3 on the SDB and it keeps blowing?

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