Rectifier Bally paragon

(Topic ID: 180997)

Rectifier Bally paragon


By StratDoc

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 210 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 27 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Paragon_SDB.png
IMG_2267 (resized).JPG
IMG_1414.gif
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
Paragon_Snda.jpg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
IMG_2122 (resized).JPG
IMG_2118 (resized).JPG
leds_pkg_b.jpg

There are 210 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 1 year ago

I have a new power supply board for my Bally paragon. The voltages are way off. I tested the rectifiers and all read correctly except for the center rectifier. It does not register any reading at all. I replaced it with a good rectifier and it will not register a reading. Is there something I am missing here? Is there something wrong with the circuit board itself?

Thanks

#2 1 year ago

To test the rectifier I am connecting Black lead to positive and red lead to AC no reading. Red lead to negative black lead to AC no reading.

If I reverse the leads, I.e. Red lead to positive and black to AC I get what appears to be a normal reading. Black to negative and red to AC again appears to be a normal reading.

The other rectifiers on the board test correctly with black to negative and red to AC, red to positive and black to AC.

#3 1 year ago

1) Did the game work correctly before installing the new board?

2) If you are taking readings with only J-2 attached to the rectifier board the readings will be odd.

3) Check, then double check all of the wiring.

18-49 WIRING TABLE.pdf

Untitled (resized).jpg

#4 1 year ago

It did n work properly before which is why I bought a new rectifier board.
The following appear to be mis-wired at the lugs.

18 red gauge wired to lug 1 with a jumper to lug 3
18 gauge yellow at lug 9 with a jumper to 11

There is jumper wire on lug 5 that is cut. Do not know where it was previously connected.

All else is wired correctly

#5 1 year ago

Why would you put your meter on an ac Lug and a DC Lug? To measure the DC out you should be putting your leads on the + and - sides of the rectifier

#6 1 year ago

I was texting the resistance of the rectifier. I thought to do that you put the black on positive and red on AC and look for a reading of 500-600.

#7 1 year ago

The transformer wiring differs depending on your household line voltage. If the wires go to 1 and 9 with ties from 1-3 and 9-11 it is wired for 115VAC. My example shows it wired for 120VAC where the red and yellow wires go to 1 and 5 with the ties of 1-3 and 5-7.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I was texting the resistance of the rectifier. I thought to do that you put the black on positive and red on AC and look for a reading of 500-600.

You mean using diode test? In that case you should get a reading black AC->red positive and black negative to red AC, and no reading if you reverse the leads, but that's when the rectifier is out of the circuit. Which voltage is the center rectifier? Is it a repro or an original bally board? The rectifier for the 5.4V and the 43V have a resistor across them, but the one for 11.9V doesn't, so there's a chance they'd get different readings.

#9 1 year ago

It is reproduction board.

About at my wits end with this pin. I purchased a new board because the old one was in rough shape. I still cannot get voltage readings at any test point other than TP2 on the new board. I also do not get voltage ratings at E wire connectors on the board. I have repinned the plugs for the rectifier board. I have double checked the wiring on the back of the board. Connector to the lugs on the transformer are correct.

How do I test the transformer? Could it be bad?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I also do not get voltage ratings at E wire connectors on the board

What about at E5+6? They're what provide the 230V at TP2

#11 1 year ago

E5andE6 do show voltage. Sorry. All other E wire connectors do not.

#12 1 year ago

Testing a transformer requires 2 leads to the lugs, not one to a lug and the other to ground. IE - test at lugs 1 and 9 and see if you get 115vac. if so, then test on the other side according to the schematic. (2 and 6 should show 49vac, 15 and 16 should show 12vac, etc...)

#13 1 year ago

Not showing any voltages from the transformer following your steps above and the schematics. The only thing that shows voltage is TP2 and the GI lights in the coin door light.

#14 1 year ago

OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.

#15 1 year ago

TP2 is 135vdc and I am not showing a vac reading at TP4

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

OK. Then we know you have household current in. TP2 should be around 230VDC or so and if the lights are on in the coin door you should see 6-8 vac at TP4.

Note TP4 has to be measured in AC with the other lead on E8

That's pretty low, what do lugs 8+10 of the transformer measure (AC)? What about E5+6?

#17 1 year ago

Right. I forgot about that TP4 reads 6.6 vac

Been pulling my hair out with this thing.

#18 1 year ago

183 vac on 8&10 e5+e6 183

#19 1 year ago

IMG_7812 (resized).JPG

IMG_8876 (resized).JPG

IMG_8878 (resized).JPG

#20 1 year ago

Lug 2&6 50vac
Lugs 8&10 180

#21 1 year ago

OK! Without a load those are close enough. Can you measure them on the other side?

#22 1 year ago

Vac on the other side. Which lugs?

#23 1 year ago

13&14 7.8 vac
15&16 12.6 vac
17&18 6.6 vac

#24 1 year ago

Congratulations. Nothing wrong with your transformer.

#25 1 year ago

So when you are checking the TPs on the rectifier board only J-2 hooked up?

#26 1 year ago

Thank you! Well that is good news. Now if I can figure out why no voltages at the test points with a new rectifier board. All fuses test okay.

#27 1 year ago

Yes, only J2 hooked up.

#28 1 year ago

Which board are you using and (I have to ask) you are certain all the fuses are good?

#29 1 year ago

Not sure whose board. It is not altek or Rottendog and does not have a manufacturer's name on it. Fuses check out okay with the mulitmeter

#30 1 year ago

What are you using as ground when you test the test points?

#31 1 year ago

I am using the ribbon cable in the backbox.

I rechecked E vac voltages on the board and they look okay.

#32 1 year ago

So I used the ground connection on the board itself and show correct voltages at all test points except TP1. It reads no volts.

#33 1 year ago

That's better! TP1 gets rectified to DC through the 4 diodes on the side of the board.

#34 1 year ago

Check for voltage on either side of fuse F-1

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

That's better! TP1 gets rectified to DC through the 4 diodes on the side of the board.

I thought the diodes were for the HV (TP2)?

#37 1 year ago

Okay, so the damn fuse holder at F1 was not making a good connection. Voltages are as follows

Tp1 6.6
Tp2 175
Tp3 12.8
Tp4 6.6
Tp5 44.5

#38 1 year ago

Strange that it will not register voltages by grounding anywhere other than the ground on the rectifier board.

#40 1 year ago

Does that mean I have a ground issue somewhere with the ribbon cable?

#41 1 year ago

MK1 you are the greatest. I have been messing with this all day.

#42 1 year ago

Maybe, but not necessarily. It should be stapled to the back ground plane at one end and connected to the ground at your inline filter at the other.

#43 1 year ago

Been there, done that, dude. Happy to help.

#44 1 year ago

Something like this. And this is a Space Invaders which is why the power board is in the basement, not the head.

IMG_8883 (resized).JPG

#45 1 year ago

You aren't he greatest!

Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

You aren't he greatest!
Okay, all looks good except F4 blows as soon as I plug into J2 on the solenoid driver board. I have a 5 amp circuit breaker thank goodness so I do not go through fuses. I have rebuilt the board with a high and low voltage kits from BigDaddy Enterprises.

Unplug your displays just in case

#47 1 year ago

Did you try it with only J-3 at first and it was fine and then you added in J-2 and it pops the fuse?

#48 1 year ago

J-2 is your flippers, coin door lock-out and knocker. Nine times out of ten its the knocker. Cut one of the wires to it and try again.

#49 1 year ago

Thank you again for the advice, and it I the J3 plug that is causing f4 to blow, not J2 - sorry for the confusion. I was working on it while having a couple of beverages last evening - or at least that is my excuse for giving the wrong plug.

Here is what I have done so far. Disconnected displays, only J3 is plugged to the solenoid board.

* Replaced two bad transistors on the board q3 and q19 - fuse still blows
* disconnected flippers and cut a wire to the knocker - fuse still blows
* unplugged coin door from inside cabinet - fuse still blows
* rebuilt the solenoid board with full rebuild kits from BigDaddy Enterprises, checked continuity on the two large transisters with heat sinks to make sure they were not touching the heat sink - those things were a bear to install.

#50 1 year ago

So only J-2 on the rectifier and J-3 on the SDB and it keeps blowing?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 134.95
From: $ 155.00
From: $ 155.00
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
From: $ 140.00
$ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 15.00
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
There are 210 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside