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(Topic ID: 60583)

Recommended WOZ tweaks out of the ebox?


By StevenP

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by pezpunk
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

[NOTE: I just saw that the topic title says "ebox" - I meant a *physical* shipping box! ]

I'm expecting delivery of my WOZ "soon" (within the month), and really like my games dialed in and working properly. Like my other games (NIB or newly-acquired), I expect to spend some time with the glass off to fine-tune a few things.

With that said, are there any suggestions for what minor adjustments I should make to WOZ fresh out of the box? So far, I've seen recs for some loc-tite on the screws holding the trees to the pops, and making sure the GI LEDs are aligned with the light tubes. (I imagine the JJP factory might be addressing these minor issues already.) And, of course, to keep the firmware updated as needed.

Any other suggestions from owners? I am *NOT* looking for suggestions to install Cliffy protectors or modified toppers or pincabs or additional lighting, etc. Just adjustments to make sure everything is working great and holding together. Thx.

#2 7 years ago

I'd play a few games, and then consider tweaking any coil settings stronger or weaker to make your game play the way you like.

LTG : )

#3 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd play a few games, and then consider tweaking any coil settings stronger or weaker to make your game play the way you like.
LTG : )

Whoa, fast JJP customer service! Thx Lloyd. I also heard that the top kicker coil was too strong, leading to the rubber breaking, but that the default was dialed down in recent software. Is that true? Recommended coil setting for that kicker?

-8
#4 7 years ago

I would think that the highest quality pinball machine ever built should need ZERO tweaks out of the box!

#5 7 years ago

I would (and did) do the following..

Adjust the outlanes to their innermost position. They are still drain monsters but not nearly as bad as they are in their default positions.

The roll-overs almost certainly need to be tweaked to be just right. If they are too sensitive, they will be triggered by random vibrations. If the ball is in the shooter lane when that happens, it will auto-launch! So first make slap the game in switch test mode and make sure none are accidentally triggering. Then go through them and bend the leafs to be as sensitive as possible just shy of accidentally triggering. It makes the game a lot more fun when you actually get credit for every character rollover, not to mention TOTO.

Tweak the lock/release release mechanism on the right. If it's hanging too far down, it will keep balls from rolling all the way forward into the path of the optos that tell the game a ball is locked. If it's too far up, it will release multiple balls when it should only release one. Tuning this to be just right is a bit tricky. If you pull the playfield forward you can see a little metal tab that determines the height of the lock arm. Gently bend it with needle-nose pliers to tweak the height until it's good.

Adjust the spinning house/feet pop-out mech. There's an adjustment for this where you can change the house's position as well as the strength of the coil that pops the feet out. I've never been able to get mine perfect -- if I set it to the position where the feet come out all the way, the post that pushes them out binds up and can't retract, causing the whole house mech to freeze up until it's manually popped back into position. The closest I can get is the feet popping out at a bit of an angle. You might have more luck on your machine than I did. When I got mine they barely popped out at all, though, so adjusting it helped somewhat.

Order replacement flipper bats from BAA. One of mine broke after 3 weeks and I've heard of others breaking. The plastic seems more brittle than on traditional flippers and breaks apart where the bat meets the shaft. You might not have this problem in home use, but it's nice to have spares if it does happen. I was glad I did!

Software adjustments:

Turn on ball save.

Turn up the time you have to get back onto the twister playfield to start munchkin modes.

Set tilt warnings to 2 per ball, instead of the default of 2 per game.

Turn down the slingshot power -- at default they send the ball airborne and cause the slingshot arm to pop out from under the rubber. The same goes for the slingshot up by the OZ lanes, but I believe that has been turned down in the default settings of the latest software. If you turn it up to get more OZ lane bouncing action, the rubber up there -will- break and it's a pretty big pain to replace it. (People say having a white rubber fixes the problem, but mine was white and broke just the same.)

The game is still very hard at these settings. Nobody has even cracked the default GC score yet on my machine on location, and that includes multiple PAPA A division finalists who play there!

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

I also heard that the top kicker coil was too strong, leading to the rubber breaking, but that the default was dialed down in recent software. Is that true? Recommended coil setting for that kicker?

Mine has been set at 4 since July 3rd when it arrived and no problems.

LTG : )

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

I would think that the highest quality pinball machine ever built should need ZERO tweaks out of the box!

Do you REALLY have to respond to EVERY JJP/WOZ post with the same sarcastic/snarky attitude? I mean seriously, it's getting way old man.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

I would think that the highest quality pinball machine ever built should need ZERO tweaks out of the box!

Not necessary... I never see anyone saying these types of things in Stern threads, at least not in recent memory. We have had a lot of great conversations on here, lets keep those going instead Can't we all just get along? lol

#9 7 years ago

I would check out the PinPlay video in the link below on calibrating the spinning house / drop door.

http://pinplay.com/8/woz_video_tutorial_how_to_calibrate_dorothys_house.html

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Sunfox:

Do you REALLY have to respond to EVERY JJP/WOZ post with the same sarcastic/snarky attitude? I mean seriously, it's getting way old man.

You know what is getting old? Awe shit ,nevermind.

3 years later
#11 3 years ago

So im just wondering i seem to get a lot of rejected shots to crystal ball is this common or should i be making adjustment?

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So im just wondering i seem to get a lot of rejected shots to crystal ball is this common or should i be making adjustment?

It's common with mine as well. I'm guessing the spinner is not as free to spin as it should be

#13 3 years ago

Those roll overs if not close enough are a good idea to adjust. I found the Tin Man extremely difficult to get and I could watch the ball go right over it and not get credit! Slight adjustment and the first game I got two emerald city multi balls.

#14 3 years ago

Hey. I tried to adjust the outlanes and I can't move the left one any further in. It's in the middle position now and if I try to move it to the inner most the rubber hits the metal lane edge. I can't see any way to do it unless I modify the metal lane edge.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Spg101:

I can't move the left one any further in.

Remove the screw holding the metal lane guide, move the metal lane guide over, put screw in the other hole.

LTG : )

#16 3 years ago

Lloyd, there you go making sense again....

Thank you!

#17 3 years ago

my spinning house needed adjustment out of the box -- the position was off when it stopped, so the feet didn't pop out like they were supposed to. after adjusting it (using the utility in the menus) it works fine now.

the only other adjustment i made out of the box was the wide standup target on the left side of the playfield behind the pop bumpers was too sensitive, it was registering phantom hits constantly. pretty simple adjustment to the leaf switch fixed it.

#18 3 years ago

oh shit i'm responding to a 3 year old question

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