(Topic ID: 272113)

Rebuilt flippers, now blowing fuses (TAF/WPC)

By MintIndeed

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by MintIndeed
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IMG_20200501_213716 (resized).jpg
Williams Bally Flipper Rebuild Kit - 08.93 to 10.98 (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

I recently rebuilt all 4 flippers on my Addams Family game, the game played great for about 2-3 weeks. Then it blew 2 flipper fuses, I counted it as a fluke, replaced them, and moved on. Now it's about 2 weeks later, and 1 of the fuses blew again. No longer a coincidence.

I checked all the wires to the switches and coils both times, and the connections seem solid. I do have a couple sloppy solders but I can't find anything touching something it shouldn't, and the connections aren't wiggling. Still, I'm planning to re-solder all the connections this weekend (I bought a better soldering iron since the rebuild).

Anyway, before I go through the hassle of re-soldering all 4 flippers, is there anything else I ought to look at?

#2 3 years ago

check your connectors, if there not clean and shiney, and tight, a bad contact would cause them to draw more power.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

check your connectors, if there not clean and shiney, and tight, a bad contact would cause them to draw more power.

I bad contact increases resistance, so, for the same voltage, it will actually draw less power (ohm's law). Some of this power will be dissipated at the bad contact and the rest where it was meant to be dissipated (the coil), so leading to a weak coil.

#4 3 years ago

Couple of quick questions.
What are the fuses blowing; F101 and F102?
Are you replacing them with 3A slow blow fuses?
When you rebuilt the flippers did you replace the coils? Are they the correct coils?
It seems odd that these fuse blows are weeks apart. Check for any possible shorts on the coil connections that may come into play with movement or overheating.
Are your EOS switches closed at the EOS? Clean the contacts and/or test with a meter that they are working correctly.
Is the insulator, on the mechanism, that closes the EOS switch worn or missing?
..........................Perhaps this could be a coincidence.

#5 3 years ago

Thanks for the tips so far.

I used this flipper rebuild kit from Pinball Life (bought two of them, used it for all 4 flippers), plus new bushings. I did not replace the coils, but the kit has new switches and I used those. It looks like one of the previous owners did replace at least 2 of the coils.

The first time, F901 (upper-left flipper) blew followed within seconds by F101 (lower left). Then shortly after, F902 (upper-right) and then F102 (lower-right). It was mid-game, so it all happened within a minute or so and while we were trying to figure out what was happening (hadn't had these fuses blow before!).

The most recent time, it was F102 (bottom right) and then we just stopped playing immediately until we could figure out what was going on.

All fuses were replaced with brand new (purchased about 3 months ago) 3A slow blow fuses.

I'll verify the other things FilthyRich mentioned after this, but the switches were brand new with the rebuild kit and otherwise have been working fine. Although I'm not 100% sure which part you're referring to: "the insulator, on the mechanism, that closes the EOS switch". Are you referring to the rubber tip I've pointed to in the attached pic?

Williams Bally Flipper Rebuild Kit - 08.93 to 10.98 (resized).jpgWilliams Bally Flipper Rebuild Kit - 08.93 to 10.98 (resized).jpg
#6 3 years ago

Yes, they are the insulators I'm talking about.
All good there.
Do the flippers move freely when activated by hand, returning to their unactivated state easily when then spring pulls them back?
Is it possible to inspect your work? Are you able to post a pic of each flipper mechanism taken from the underside of the playfield?

#7 3 years ago

Try to manually move the flipper plunger and confirm that the EOS switch in fact OPEN at the end of motion. The coil must draw lots of current for the first few milliseconds to get a kick, but the EOS controls the current while the coil stays energized. If the EOS is not opening, then it will blow fuses easily...

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Try to manually move the flipper plunger and confirm that the EOS switch in fact OPEN at the end of motion. The coil must draw lots of current for the first few milliseconds to get a kick, but the EOS controls the current while the coil stays energized. If the EOS is not opening, then it will blow fuses easily...

This is a fliptronics game. High power doesn't go through EOS switches. And they arenormally open and close as the flipper bat goes up. And if not working the game will compensate for them.

So this isn't the reason for blowing fuses.

LTG : )

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from FilthyRich:

Are you able to post a pic of each flipper mechanism

Please post pictures of each coil wiring if you can. So wire colors and diodes can be checked.

LTG : )

#10 3 years ago

Agreed. On Addams EOS switches are normally OPEN and should CLOSE at the End Of Stroke. See the attached pic.

IMG_20200501_213716 (resized).jpgIMG_20200501_213716 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#11 3 years ago

Update: Seems like I made a mistake, I went back to test again and the flipper moved (but with problems) - retested the fuses, and they all show continuity. So I guess I mis-tested and jumped the gun, but there is a problem. So, the fuses only blew once several weeks ago, and now it's a new problem which I misdiagnosed.

Basically the flipper moves - but very slowly. The mechanism moves freely by hand, so it doesn't seem to be binding, it seems like the coil just lost all its motivation. So I guess I'm going to swap coils with the other bottom flipper and see if it's the coil or something else.

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