(Topic ID: 179619)

Rebuilding sound for DataEast & WPC using a pi

By steve45

7 years ago


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  • 2,042 posts
  • 124 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by Ashram56
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#1632 2 years ago

I picked up a 3.0 kit from @brewninja, got it soldered up and it's sort of working. I thought I'd post a few things, some as questions, some because they might help others get this running.
Here's how it went for me today:
- soldering was pretty straightforward. Nothing to see here. I had thought about putting headers in for the "modules" that need to be soldered to the board, but I didn't have any around and decided to just go for it.
- I followed the quick start on the TILT!Audio site here: https://tiltaudio.com/2020/11/11/quick-start/ While it did get me started, it could be improved.
- I've used Win32DiskImager to write my SD cards since I've started using RPis, but for some reason that didn't work, so I used the recommended Etcher and it worked fine
- One of the things in the quick start guide says to go into the raspisound.ini file and set "vendor=1" for WPC. No problem, I can do that, except for the fact that there is no raspisound.ini file in the latest version of the Pi image. It's just not there. After a little research, I found a note that recommended you just set it up with the WebUI, because that's easier. OK, I guess I'll do that.
- Wasn't entirely sure what format the sound packs needed to be in. That's not mentioned in the quick start guide. After a little more research, I found that each sound set needs to be in its own folder (not sure if there's a naming convention to follow for these folders), and all the sound files and altsound.csv go directly into these folders. OK, I can do that.
- I know that the full RPi is recommended, but there are some notes on the site that say that a zero might work. I happen to have an unused Zero around (from my LISY80 board that I'm not currently using), so I figured I'd give that a try.
- I installed the board and powered it up. The machine booted up quite a bit before the TILTAudio board, but that's not a big deal to me. It booted and started talking to me, so I figured I was just a couple steps away from getting it to work. Almost...
- It told me it was in Data East mode, and that the soundset didn't seem to match the setting. OK, so I found the TILTAUDIO wifi network and went to the expert config settings and changed it to WPC. I did a power cycle on the game (didn't see the reboot button in the UI at first) and when it booted up, it was still in DE mode. I took out the SD card, and NOW there is a raspisound.ini file, but there's nothing in it. I type "vendor=1" and save it and try again.
- this time it preloaded the sound set. Seems that it kind of "clicks" through the speakers every few seconds while it's pre-loading, eventually finishing and then some sort of beep, indicating it's done. While it's doing this, the little OLED display puts more periods after the "A...", indicating it's loading, I guess.

So now I'm in WPC mode (it announced that), and it's preloaded soundset 1 (of 2) and I'm ready to go.
I press start and it seems to be working. I'm playing the Getaway and it's running the stock soundset (for starters), and all seems pretty good. Until I get a little way through ball 1 and then the sound starts getting REALLY choppy. I ran the volume all the way down (because I'd seen that be done to change the soundset) and it said it was preloading soundset 2. Cool.
After loading soundset 2, I tried to play a game, but the sound was really choppy again. I rebooted the machine and it came up into soundset #2 again, and this time the sound was good. Until about midway through a game again, and then it got choppy again.

Is this maybe a product of using the Pi Zero?

After that first reset when using the WebUI, I couldn't find the TILTAUDIO wifi network anymore. I think once it wrote that blank raspisound.ini file, it no longer used that as a setup. When I deleted that file, I was able to find that network again and connect to the WebUI. I figured I should probably just have it hook up to my home network, but that wasn't as straightforward as I expected it to be.
I again set it up for WPC, tried to play a couple games...they worked OK for a little bit, then got really choppy.
That's about all I had the energy for today, so I shut it down and decided to write this up.

So my biggest questions are:
- is the choppy sound due to the Pi Zero?
- does the WebUI try to default to your home network or something, so that after the first use, it goes away?

One more question that didn't come up above:
- is there a speaker impedance setting or limit? From a previous speaker upgrade, I'm currently running 2x4ohm speakers in my backbox, and I believe my cabinet speaker is an 8ohm. I may run a crossover on the cabinet speaker, so it only runs the low frequencies, but do I need to be concerned about the impedance?

That's about all I've got for today. Hope this helps others, and I'd love to get some answers/comments from those that have gotten this running properly.

-

1 week later
#1641 2 years ago

Ok, so I had tried to run my board with a pi zero, but the sound would work for a bit, then get really choppy. I figured, and others on here did as well, that the zero just couldn’t cut it, so I sprung for a 3B+. Came in yesterday. I take the sd card out of the zero and put it in the 3B+, and I can tell that it’s booting (OLED screen says so), but it won’t make any sound.

I put the SD card back in the zero, and it mostly runs ok for a bit again. It announces the version, that I’m in trial mode,etc. just like it did before, but start a game and it quickly becomes choppy.

Go back to the 3B+ and it’s silent again. Screen boots up and all, just no sound.

With either one, when I go to access the UI, it’s as if I only have two minutes to get in there and make changes before my iPad drops the TILTAUDIO network and defaults back to my normal WiFi. So I power down and repeat with the same results.

Lastly, with all the powering down and back up, I’ve blown 2 of the 1A fuses on the board.

Any suggestions?

Jeff

#1644 2 years ago

Ashram56 im using 1.37 on a 3.0 board. I’ll try the “start from scratch” idea with the 3B+ tonight or tomorrow

Zigzagzag if the above doesn’t work, I’ll give your idea a try.

What is the “standard” setting for configured sound card, just using the TA board and relatively stock speakers?

#1646 2 years ago

Forgive my ignorance, but where do I find the SD image for 1.32?

#1648 2 years ago

Ok, so either the reset or dialing back to 1.32 made the difference, because now it seems to be working. I was able to play several games tonight and try out a couple different sound sets. I’ve already got some ideas on how to customize my own.

However, I’ve already blown 3 of the 1A fuses on the board. 2 while I was trying to get it to work, and now one while it seemed to be working fine.
I was in the middle of a game, coming up to a rather intense part when it went quiet and the lights went out on the board.
Any thoughts on why that fuse would be blowing?

#1652 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Well if the fuse blows regularly, that's not good news.
So, questions:
1/ Did you connect anything on the board, especially on the so called PIN2DMD or 12V connector (for example to power your PIN2DMD) ? If so, please disconnect, this is not designed for that
2/ are your fuse slow blow or fast blow ? If Fast Blow, this would indicate you have a transient, if slow blow this would more indicate you're drawing too much current in average
3/ do you see any damage on the 12V regulator -the one with the blue PCB and the small variable resistor) ?
Can you check if you have a residual resistance between 12V and ground ?

1/ I’ve got nothing extra connected to the board
2/ fuse is fast blow. What is spec’d out here? It doesn’t blow regularly. I just played about a dozen games with no problems, but it has blown 3 fuses so far...
3/ I don’t see any damage on the 12v reg (pic below).
As for residual resistance, I’m not seeing any between the IN+ and IN- on that regulator when the power is off.

All that said, it’s currently working well, and I’m playing around with different sound packages at the moment. Pretty fun stuff.

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1 week later
#1665 2 years ago

Question on the “ducking”:
Let’s say background sound A is playing, and sound B call out comes along to be played. Sound B has a ducking value of 60. Does this mean sound A will decrease to 60% (or BY 60%?) for as long as sound B is active?
This would mean the ducking value for sound B is actually applied to all OTHER sounds, and has no direct affect on sound B itself?
Am I grasping this right, or am I way off?

Thanks,
Jeff

4 weeks later
#1688 2 years ago

OK, I've got my Tilt Audio board working pretty well in my Getaway. I downloaded a few different sound sets (most/all by Mr Tantrum) in the altsound format.
Started with the stock sounds. It works pretty well. Maybe a little adjustments needed, but to 95% of the players, they'd never know.
Then I went to his full ZZTop package, which is kind of what I had in mind, anyway. That sounds good, but the re-recording of the voices and more "ferrari" type of engine sounds isn't quite what I was looking for.
So I basically combined them, so I've got the stock voice callouts, stock engine sounds, but full ZZTop treatment. This is what I was looking for.
I've also dabbled with some fun personal mixes, but we won't get into that.

What I'm kind of stuck on is that sometimes when it goes up into the supercharger, the game goes silent for a moment. It quickly recovers and all is good, so it's not a deal breaker, but I'd like to find out what's going on there. I've contacted Mr Tantrum, because he seems to be the expert on all things Getaway, and he told me which sounds to look for (blast electric1-7) when it's in the supercharger. However, it seems like it only goes silent sometimes, other times, it's fine.
I noticed that his sound package was based on L-5, but I'm currently running L-2, so maybe the sound calls are a little different. I'm thinking maybe it's looking for a sound that isn't there.

I've played around with the logs, but they are so verbose that it's hard for me to tell what's going on. What's the best way for me to find this one "missing" sound/sounds in the logs? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

7 months later
#1852 2 years ago

OK, so I've got my Getaway sounding GREAT with my Tilt Audio board, with one exception:
After powering up, the first shot into the Super Charger causes it to go silent for a moment, then it comes back and everything is good. Next (and subsequent) shots into the SC do NOT go silent.

In my sound package, I've got a mix of the actual ZZTop song files (which I downloaded in a package) and the original sound effects and callouts (taken from another package). The one out there with real ZZTop and re-recorded callouts was not for me. OK, then I added Sammy Hagar's "I can't drive 55" for the video mode and the Replacements "Run It" for when the red light is lit.

Anyway, back to the super charger. Today I set up my ipad to link to the Pi and look at the logs. I can get it to report that there are a handful of sounds reported as missing (sounds 192-196). Looking in other sound packages, that appears to be the same in them, too.
What I can't get it to do is give me an active list of what sound is being called when it is called. For example, I'd love to find out what sound it IS playing on the SECOND shot into the Super Charger, so I can copy that sound into the one trying to be played on the first shot. But I can't seem to get that kind of data to display. I've gone through all the "Live Log Level" choices, and none of them appear to be "all".

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jeff

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