(Topic ID: 61883)

Rebuilding Flipper Links on a Woodrail

By dgpinball

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I am undertaking my first restoration of a really old woodrail, a 1950 Gottlieb Bank A Ball, and I've run into my first problem. The flipper linkage is nothing like anything I've encountered, all metal, and consequently very worn. The holes where the pins connect are nearly twice the size that they were originally, making for a very sloppy linkage.

I very much doubt that the links are available or have been repro'ed, so I'm wondering what most people do when they encounter this problem on these old games?

TIA

Dale

#2 10 years ago

might be able to weld them up, and redrill them round-
or maybe redrill them round oversized and place a bronze bushing insert in them-
theres actuallysome awsome two parts that are well machinable also-even though i just like option a the best

would be nice to see a pic of the link wear- also hows the playfeild?

#3 10 years ago

Here area few pics of the links:

IMG_0384.JPGIMG_0384.JPG IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0387.JPG IMG_0388.JPGIMG_0388.JPG

#4 10 years ago

The playfield is just fair, has some damage, not just paint loss, but should be pretty good when finished. I'm very lucky to have one of the very few new plastic sets for it, so it's going to be pretty nice when finished.

#5 10 years ago

i think i'd gird my loins and call steve at pbr and see what he says...

#6 10 years ago

The height offset is interesting, but given the general arrangement, I'd try a test fit of a slightly more modern Gottlieb flipper setup, with a flipper pawl and return spring that mounts on the bushing, then use the fiber board linkages. The question would be whether the EOS switch can be made to work with the pawls, but given the location of that post on the metal linkage, it might be close enough.

The offset might be countered by the stack up of the more modern setup too, such that it's not needed. Hard to say without seeing the current setup in context underneath the playfield.

Otherwise, a piece of small metal bar stock could be used to fabricate these. For the post, a spacer and screw could be used instead. Steve at PBR might have some used ones tucked away too, so it's always worth asking.

#7 10 years ago

Also, you might consider posting this in the EM Hangout sub-forum (more EM folks will see it there).

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

The height offset is interesting, but given the general arrangement, I'd try a test fit of a slightly more modern Gottlieb flipper setup, with a flipper pawl and return spring that mounts on the bushing, then use the fiber board linkages. The question would be whether the EOS switch can be made to work with the pawls, but given the location of that post on the metal linkage, it might be close enough.
The offset might be countered by the stack up of the more modern setup too, such that it's not needed. Hard to say without seeing the current setup in context underneath the playfield.
Otherwise, a piece of small metal bar stock could be used to fabricate these. For the post, a spacer and screw could be used instead. Steve at PBR might have some used ones tucked away too, so it's always worth asking.

I spent some time looking at the flippers tonight, the offset in the link is pretty much not an option, which makes the fibre board not a solution. The bushings that go thru the playfield are quite unique also, they determine the need for the offset as they are quite high.

I'd prefer to keep the game as original as possible, it's fairly rare, so if PBR can't help me with the links, I'll try the weld and re-drill route.

Thanks for all the advice.

#9 10 years ago

Check with Pinball Resource.

#10 10 years ago

I believe Tim at the Pinball Hall of Fame once said that he made his own out of the metal playfield prop rods as he also didn't believe in using them for their original purpose.
Kevin

#11 10 years ago

The thing to watch with the original bushings is whether they are still providing enough clearance for the flipper on top of the playfield. When those wear down, flipper drag marks can start to appear.

I hear ya on the originality part, and that's my philosophy too. But sometimes I'll flex a bit when:

a) there aren't good alternatives
b) I can still use Gottlieb parts
c) it's reversible
d) too much risk to the original parts

In this case, you could always keep the original parts with the game so they're on hand, while you create new ones. That way even if you did end up making new links, you wouldn't need to risk the original ones with welding/drilling.

Modern replacement bushings might eliminate the height that causes the offset too (just speculating though, I've not seen the underside of one these Bank a Balls before).

Hopefully Steve has something usable though; that would be ideal.

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