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(Topic ID: 161159)

Rebuilding Black Knight Drop Targets - Issue

By Sheprd

7 years ago



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MX-01-7036[1]_(resized).jpg
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#1 7 years ago
OP
 
MAC

Sheprd

Pinside member

11y 62,650 547

I have an early edition Black Knight, and the reset bars are the type that have 3 prongs that stick out to lift the targets. The newer "replacement" bars, have the three prongs connected together. The problem is, the new bars stick out far enough to trip the switches when the bar is in the down (rest)position. I can adjust the position of the switches somewhat, but their is a lot of play in the reset bar, and if it twists a little, it will catch and trigger a target switch.

Has anyone faced this problem? Do I have to relocate or use different switches?

Mac

MX-01-7036[1]_(resized).jpgMX-01-7036[1]_(resized).jpg

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#2 7 years ago
 
JIM

PNBLWZD

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 71,400 1,275

I've never used one of these replacement reset plates, but how does it compare to an original if you place them on top of each other? Can you trim or file the new one a little to match or avoid hitting the switches? Are you sure it's the correct replacement? I wouldn't go replacing the switches, figure out the part issue instead

3 months later
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#3 7 years ago
 
BK

SergioBK

Inactive member

7y 8,500 2

OP
Quoted from Sheprd:

I have an early edition Black Knight, and the reset bars are the type that have 3 prongs that stick out to lift the targets. The newer "replacement" bars, have the three prongs connected together. The problem is, the new bars stick out far enough to trip the switches when the bar is in the down (rest)position. I can adjust the position of the switches somewhat, but their is a lot of play in the reset bar, and if it twists a little, it will catch and trigger a target switch.
Has anyone faced this problem? Do I have to relocate or use different switches?
Mac

Hi,
I know you've posted this comment a few months back but I've faced the same issue a couple of weeks ago.
Replacement part was exactly as the one you pictured above. Easy solution for me was to cut the reset plate to match the original one, easier than having to reposition the switches. Unfoi did not take a picture of it but the inal result was a matching reset place to the original one.
Hope this help

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#4 7 years ago
OP
 
MAC

Sheprd

Pinside member

11y 62,650 547

Thanks. I have been playing the BK quite a lot over the past 3 months and not had a single issue once I tweaked the switch positions a tad, so it is doable without going back to the old style without the connecting bars. If I ever do see a problem, I will cut them out.

5 years later
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#5 2 years ago
 
ROB

SomeCaliGuy

Pinside member

US Hemet, CA

9y 42,350 69 9

I have this same issue where it held the switch down. Did it cause your fuse to blow? My F2 fuse blows and I'm wonder if the stuck switch caused the problem

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