Well after nearly 3 years in this hobby, I finally have a cool pickup worth documenting! Finally got the project game I've been looking for.

Here's the story - in scrubbing the depths of pinballowners I sent a message to a guy that had a Getaway that was awaiting restoration. I sent him a message asking if he ever got around to it. This was January of 2014, it's now August 2015. He got back to me and long story short he had 3 kids since he got it and never got around to finishing the playfield swap and restoration he started. I replied that I was interested.

Real nice dude, put it on Craigslist to get some feelers but got turned off real quick by all the trolls. He held it for me for a week and I picked it up with a buddy. It was still on the rotisserie, he had gotten a used but very nice playfield and just started to reassemble it. The playfield is nice and clean on the back. Could use some light touchups but overall a solid 9.

Everything was in boxes, pretty well organized. I just took inventory tonight and decided I'm going to document this along the way. I've shopped a bunch of different games and this one doesn't seem too complex.

This should be a pretty easy project. Everything appears to be here. Going to pickup some rubber and LED's from PinballLife tomorrow and get this cracking. Also note that I live in a 600 square foot apartment in Chicago... that already has 2 games in it. So this is going to be a little challenging!

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Here's some pictures of my workspace. The kitchen is pretty wide open. Note other projects like the 3D printer and the 25" arcade CRT that I need to recycle.

The cabinet is currently outside in a covered fire escape. It was in an old musty basement in rural Madison and I want to air it out a bit. Going to put some charcoal in there to get the funk out. I plan on putting it in my bedroom where my bike is and put my bike on the fire escape. No, I am not married.

Also a shot of the back of the playfield!

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Spent 2 hours tonight:
Took inventory of everything
Cleaned the supercharger plastic
Cleaned the cabinet - it has some rough edges but cleaned up real nice! The front is the most faded, but the sides are actually very decent. Some touchups will go a long way.
Made a pinball life order - LED's, rubber, and a couple IDC connectors. The previous owner rewrapped the coils, put in new sleeves and rebuilt the flippers!

I should note the red dome is perfect! The wires were cut to the motor so I imagined it stopped working. Dude said all the electronics worked. Wiring harness looked clean, boards looked clean with mostly matching serial numbers and no battery damage! Going to replace all the capacitors regardless, hoping for no issues!

Called a lame date early to come back and put 40 minutes in...
Went to Harbor Freight for the first time today and got a few random tools, but namely 4 12" clamps I'll use as a makeshift rotisserie. Also went to my brother's house to grab some random parts, tools, Novus, Bondo, etc.
My buddy gave me this extra Ikea table and I'm finally using it as a workspace. Sitting in my office chair, the playfield is at the same height as my chest. I threw the playfield up there and took a real good look at it. Previous owner threw new rubber on there but that was 4 years ago! Took it off and it was certainly starting to age.

Playfield has some very mildly sinking inserts. A good amount of keylines around the inserts needs to be touched up. There are a few other very small imperfections with the playfield, but I really wan to just get this going so I'll save it for next time. Playfield is a solid 9+.

Tomorrow I'm going to PinballLife to pick up my LED's and rubber and a few other random parts. Will be <$150, not bad.

I'm guessing (hoping) this will take less than 10 hours to get reassembled and working. My next plan is to sand the inside of the cabinet and leave some charcoal dust in there for a few days to get the basement funk out. Glue the applicable edges of the cabinet, bondo cabinet, touch up cabinet. Then bring it inside! The backbox needs a few touchups and some old stickers to be removed.

Analyzing the teardown pictures I've found online, this seems relatively simple to shop. I've already put it together in my head. I haven't dealt with putting back on a wiring harness before, but considering the playfield layout it seems like it will be pretty straight forward.

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Got home late from work and put another 2 1/2 hours tonight.
Picked up my parts from Pinball Life.
Propped up the playfield on the clamps, put on all the light boards and put LED's in.
Put LED's in the backbox.
Cleaned all the inserts.
Spread out all the wiring harnesses and wiped them down with some simple green.
Went out to the fire escape, sanded the inside of the cabinet, blew it out with some compressed air.
Bondo'd the corners that were a bit ripped up.
Busted up some charcoals put them on a plate and put the glass on to get the rest of the basement funk out.
Pretty tired, happy with progress so far though!

It is! I didn't notice it at first.

Well I got antsy and brought the cabinet in. The smell is almost completely gone.
Noticed it's a German re-import.
Set it up. It's a bit close when you get out of bed, but fuck it.
If I had a wife, I probably wouldn't have one after this.

Going out with a chick now but working from home tomorrow so going to try to get cranking on the playfield wiring late tonight!

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Didn't get anything done last night. But have been hitting it pretty hard the last 5 hours.
Got all the underside playfield wiring harnesses installed and soldered including LED's and flashers.
Did the inserts first, then switches, then high voltage - that seems to be the best way.
Made a few small mistakes as to what goes where but nothing major, the documentation is key to have.
I should mention the seller also gave me a ton of hardware with the Williams part numbers on it, nice.
Also reheated the connector pins on the underside circuit boards.

I appear to be missing a bracket for the ramp lifter as well as a the whole kickback assembly. Going to email the seller and pray he has it somewhere. If not, I can 3D print a temporary one until I can get one fabbed.

Going to take a break for a bit then hit the top of the playfield.

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Another 2 hours, gonna call it quits for a bit and go out for some beers and shenanigans.
Flipped the playfield. Touched up the inserts with black, cleaned and waxed the playfield, cleaned the plastics and put them on, put on rubber.
Not much left to do - mount supercharger, mount habitrails, apron, put it in the cab and wire it all up.
Have a few burnt connectors/pins I'm going to replace.
Shooting to get this going tomorrow!

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Well it started raining hard just as I was about to go out last night. Came back in and after a bit of putzing got sucked back in another 2 hours...

Dropped the playfield in the cab
Fixed some burnt connectors and pins
Did a lithium battery mod on the CPU
Pulled the driver board, was delighted to see it was very clean with no hacks

Wired most of it up (still have 2 IDC connectors to replace), turned it on, some LED's turned on but nothing. Turned it off and back on and it was dead - guessing I blew a fuse. Gave up around 1 a.m.

I kind of burnt myself out on this real quick. Very happy and proud of my progress, but I need to get out of my house. Heading to a beer fest all day today and have plans Sunday. May get back to it Sunday night. Going to start checking the fuses. Considering it's a reimport will also check the voltage conversion. Although the seller said he had it up and working previously.

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Spent another hour tonight:

Last time I plugged everything in I popped the main fuse. Pulled a bunch of stuff off the driver board, popped in a new fuse and was able to get it to start but not boot. I wasn't getting 12V at the test point I should have and the CPU was blinking LED20 indicating a ROM failure. My 5V test point is 4.8, maybe a little low but I think it should be OK.

Pulled the driver board, replaced 2 IDC headers I've been meaning to. Dreading doing the connectors. Checked BR5 and C30 and they tested fine. Put the driver board back in, powered up and popped another fuse I'm using 3A SB's which should be 4A or 8A normal ones. Going to get some correct fuses tomorrow. The original one that was in there was a 5A SB. Then going to start going up the chain looking for shorts.

Was hoping this would be a "plug and play" but hoping the solution is easy and obvious.

During reassembly, I noticed the ball trough ejector, kickback solenoid and part of the lift ramp assembly were all missing. The seller emailed me back saying he found similar things, hoping it's all that's missing! He's shipping this week so hopefully I can figure out the electrical issue in the meantime. Kind of burnt out from the weekend and need to prepare for the week, maybe some more time tomorrow.

Seller just replied to my email saying he has everything I listed! Shipping tomorrow with "maybe some other spare parts". Nice.

Read through the pinwiki and have a good path set in my mind for attacking the electrical issue. Going to trace the high power cable from the transformer to the driver board, test the BR's, test voltages at different points on the boards. In hindsight, 4.8V is pretty low.

Another 2ish hours tonight:

Check out the metal power box - varistor, thermistor and filter looked good. Whoever converter this back to 120V knew what they were doing.
I took off the fliptronics board, inspected it for anything out of the ordinary, reflowed solder on the connectors
Had a few things plugged in to the driver board, powered it up - it all happened so quick - I believe a fuse got red hot real quick and blew dark gray smoke at me! Glad nothing exploded. I quickly turned off the power and pulled the board. F103 and F105 were blown, I don't recall having any solenoids hooked up but perhaps I did. Will check the solenoid wiring for shorts.

Since I had it off I wanted it to be the last time, replaced BR1, BR2 and C5 (had spares). New thermal paste. Also noticed that C8 (100uF 100V) was swollen on the top! It appeared to have been replaced before also. It wasn't very obvious but I'm glad I spotted it. Replaced that one also.

Got home late from work today and need to catch up on sleep from partying all weekend. Have some plans the next few days but work should be getting easier so maybe I'll be able to dive deeper. Too tired and apathetic to wire back up the driver board. Frustrated with my lack of progress. But it's also motivating to move forward in solving this problem.

Going to grab my WPC schematics and a few other random components from my brother's house, cruising through PDF's is too inconvenient when my head's halfway in the backbox.

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Helped a friend move after work, went out for a bit, came home at 11 and got nearly 2 hours in:

Finished repinning the burnt IDC connectors
Replaced BR2 and BR3 (BR4 tested ok but I didn't have any more) - tested OK out of circuit
Replaced all the 15,000uF caps - tested way low! 9-11000.
Replaced the caps on the DMD board, reflowed solder on connectors
Got a Chicago cop car and a lamborghini model off eBay, going to put some LED's in em for modding
Got the package from the seller - all the brackets and coils I believe I need are there, except the whole outhole kicker assembly seems to be missing. Gonna buy another on eBay.

Figured out what I was doing wrong - the 50/100VAC plug for the DMD board is keyed the same as one right next to it on the driver board. I was feeding that high voltage into the driver board, fortunately it seems OK.

Plugged in everything but the solenoids and it booted to attract! Some LED's out, 2/3 of the pop bumper cap LED's out - but overall a huge step forward!

No DMD, when I was inspecting it, the transistors seemed like they got real crispy. I *think* I have a WPC rebuild kit around here. Would love to do it tonight but it's already nearly 1 and I still have to go to work tomorrow. Hoping to make a bunch of progress this weekend!

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Spent an hour+ rebuilding the HV section of the DMD board. Plugged it in and Q4 blew up! Maybe some diodes under it also. Checked my work and it looked good, there may be bigger things at play here. Going out to consume 100 beers, no plans tomorrow will likely dive a little deeper. No sound also, I have a few stray grounds and only the DMD connector is there, will investigate.

Here's a picture of my computer desk/soldering setup. That Hakko 470 is the light of my life. Panavise is also pretty bad ass.

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So far - 21 hours in 10 days. Not bad considering where I'm at.

About another 2 hours today:

Put on most of the plastics
Put together and mounted the whole lifter ramp mechanism
Mounted the rest of the coils
Took note of some missing stuff - main thing is a ball trough kicker mechanism. Going to try to find another or worst case 3D print one
Consolidated all my parts of new stuff, old stuff, plastics, steel etc. Threw out a bunch of old rubber and bulbs from the old game.
Fixed a few missing T-nuts

As it sits, I've got a lot to do:
Clean and wax the supercharger mechanism - it looks pretty nice, but certainly has been used a bunch
Lifter ramp is missing a flap - do I need this? Can I make Pinbits has it but I believe I need a rivet tool to put it on
Checked the IDE cable - looks fine, still no sound. Need to check that and speaker wire
Repair the DMD board and find out why it blew up, check the connectors coming into it, maybe test the DMD on another game
Finish assembling the top end
Finish wiring the bottom end, put in all the wire organizer stands
Get some miscellaneous hardware for mounting the lockdown bar tabs and shooter assembly

I find myself pulling random hardware from the kit the seller gave me, it's sitting on the floor of my kitchen and every time I went to it for a part I thought, "that'd be another trip to Home Depot". Win.

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Ordered a bunch of stock parts from Bob Roberts (Transistors, bridges, filtering caps) for future games, plus the parts to repair the DMD. Bought the ramp flaps and a red DMD filter from pinbits. Found a local pinsider that will rivet the ramps for me. Contacted the seller to see if he has the trough kicker, if not there's an old one on eBay.

Despite waiting for parts, still plenty of work to do. Picked up a Street Fighter 2 arcade my brother wants out of his house so unfortunately that will take priority. Just gotta fix the monitor and find it a home.

Well I was out of town all weekend so didn't get anything done then. Been busy with personal and work stuff most of the time so haven't had much time to work on this.

Got my pinbits package - flaps look nice, although just a metal color, not the original black. Haven't opened the DMD filter yet.
Got the replacement trough hole kicker - looks to be from an ooold game (system 7?) but is definitely the same assembly! $20 well spent
Got some fresh hardware and mounted the shooter solenoid and playfield support brackets

Hoping to have some time later in the week to get the flaps mounted. Otherwise have a lot of steel to regrain on the supercharger ramp. Still haven't looked at the electronics. Got some replacement ribbon cables I need to throw together.

The remaining playfield assembly tasks are so trivial it's killing me. The electronics I feel I'll figure out once I'm able to sit down with them for a few hours. Until next time!

Frustrated. This DMD board issue has been on my mind, the next step was to test the voltages and the DMD. I tried the DMD in another WPC game (JD) and it worked great! Passed the test 100%. There's a scratch on the plastic but whatever.

I compared the voltages at J605 and J606 and they were WAYYY off. See below. The only bridge rectifier on the driver board I didn't change was BR4. Going to dig through the schematics tomorrow and see what's up. Hoping it's something simple. Really hoping I don't need to buy anything else or repin any more stupid IDC connectors. Thinking I may have fried something when plugging in the DMD plugs incorrectly. Also thinking maybe the transformer is shot, but that's a long shot.

Questions to be answered:
Why is pin 1/3 on J606 so low? Barely anything
Is 4.96 too low? Need to measure elsewhere, may have more bad IDC connectors
Why is 6/7 so high? Is 14V too high?
On J605, where is this voltage coming from? What would cause such radical spikes in voltages?
Before rebuilding the DMD board it was able to power up without frying, what's changed? Something else need to be plugged in?

Two steps forward, one step back; I suppose.

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Thanks, zaza!

I re-measured J605 this morning before work and it tested OK.
Perhaps I just had a short on my DMD board. The whole HV section of the PCB was very crispy.

My plan is to rebuild the HV section (again) and test continuity along with the schematic.
Plans tonight (fixing a friend's EM Evel Knieval), maybe tomorrow or Friday.

Progress!

The DMD board has been sitting on my desk bothering me every time I used my desktop PC. Decided to tackle it today and got it working in under an hour.

Turns our I flipped Q4/5 and Q2/10. Those are PNP and NPN, respectively, no good. Silly reminder to always double check your work!

Previously, Q4 blew and R5 was fried (pictured). The reverse voltage on Q4 was too much for it to handle so it popped. Analyzing the schematic, I decided to replace all of those transistors. I tested the diodes (in circuit) and they were OK so I moved forward. Got the continuity tester going on my multimeter and fixed a couple traces where the solder didn't go through to the trace on the top side.

Popped it in, no dice. F602 was blown and definitely had the wrong fuse in it. Replaced it and it fired right up! I was worried it may be the main ribbon cable as it had a few bends in it. Got into the menu and everything seems to work! Wish I would have left in the original batteries so I could have checked the audit. Happy to see the ROM is the latest version.

Busy with the weekend coming up, but may have some more time soon. Want to get sound going next. Have a little more under playfield work to do like fixing GI bulbs and soldering some additional solenoids. Happy to have finally made some progress instead of putzing doing little shit here and there. Gotta knock out the big stuff first.

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Had a few minutes before heading out for the night, there's basically some loose ground wires for the speakers. I found one and plugged it into the single connector for the DMD speakers. It worked but was very scratchy. Maybe the volume is up high, maybe a bad connection. Realized with the others that I'm missing an IDC connector for the sub! I have a spare so I'll pop that on. In the box of parts I also found an extra of the single pin. Have a Molex crimper and some pins so I'll replace those also.

Plugged in the siren at the top and tried to test it. Couldn't find anything for it in the menu. Need to splice back together the wires for the motor. These tasks should be less than an hour.

Next move after that is to get the new ramp flaps on, then finish assembling the topside. Which at this point is basically just the supercharger and habitrails. Soon!

Another 2 hours tying up some loose ends:

Sound works! I was missing an IDC connector. Still need a molex pin for the sub.
Resolved a couple issues with stray wires/missing IDC's in the backbox.
Lined up a couple switches with the playfield
Put on some cable management brackets
Put on the back wood panel and the slider brackets - they're the wrong angle, though. Need to put on the other ones I have.

Issues persisting:
Tried the siren - light works, motor I can feel clicking on but doesn't move. Need to pop it open to clean and relube.
Left slingshot coil wire is busted
The brown/brown-white GI circuit is out
Most of the flashers don't work
Flippers need to be aligned and tightened
Upper flipper's wires came undone

Played a game and it's certainly looking nice though!

About 3 more hours between yesterday and today:

Rebuilt the motor - took it apart, cleaned it with carb cleaner, relubed with SuperLube. Couldn't pull the motor away from the main body, hoping it doesn't affect it. Just clicks and barely turns. Tried spinning it an it feels like it's hesitating. Perhaps the motor is shot. Light works, though.
Followed this - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repairing-beacon-motor-for-hs2-and-possibly-others

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The playfield slide brackets never worked as well as my other games. I brushed this up to the playfield being a later run, the cabinet being an earlier run. I also believe that this is the first game that used these brackets. The right seemed OK but the left seemed a little bent. Upon pulling it out an analyzing it, it seems it went under a lot of pressure. Will bend it back in my brother's vise tomorrow.

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Fixed the brown/brown-white GI! Analyzed the schematics, checked the WPC wiki on how to repair GI. Checked the triacs, transistors and resistors, checked continuity on the board. Reheated J115 anyways. I hate pulling the power driver board, as I do putting it back so hoping this is the end of this board repair.

Upon repinning J115, I appear to have swapped pins 1 and 3. I thought it didn't really matter but pin 1 goes to ground.
Found this - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ac-input-wiring-scheme-needed-for-wpc-gi
Swapped pins 1 and 3, put the driver board back in and the GI came up!

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Avoiding sanding down the supercharger assembly. Going to get the flaps put on hopefully this week and can finish top end assembly.

Well, only getting 13VAC on the motor wires. It seems like it wants to spin, need to pull the boards again and re-check them.

Pretty sure I figured out the flasher's real quick - just 2 wires I forgot to hook up under the playfield. Can't prop the playfield up as I don't want to put the slide bracket back on. Maybe I'll get to the supercharger tonight.

Took a half hour sitting on my kitchen floor and cleaned and regrained the supercharger assembly.

Cleaned with simple green, wet sanded with 120 then 220 grit, clean, wax.

They didn't turn out perfect but it's hard to get in between the ramp without busting up my fingers. Whatever, the supercharger gets real beat up but it's very accessible so should I get the time, tools and motivation in the future I can finish it proper. Glad I took it apart though, the part that runs through the coils was pretty filthy.

Another busy week ahead, and going to a music festival all next weekend, but this should come together pretty quickly and easily now!

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Just threw some alligator clips on the strobe wires, all the strobes flash! Only one fires in the backbox, though. Regardless, I'm comforted in the fact that I won't have to remove the power driver board again!

About another hour after getting home from work:

Put in the bent back bracket, fits nice and pulls out much nicer now
Soldered in the strobe lamp
Realized I put 2 strobes in the wrong location, fixed that
The left target bank didn't work, fixed a loose wire on the CPU end connector
Mounted and wired the traffic light
Tidied up the cabinet, removed all the tools that were inside it
Swapped out the SHIFT LED with a super bright one, much better

The sound on the DMD speakers works fine. There's 2 stray sound wires the the backbox I need to figure out - one with black/yellow stripe and a female molex pin, one just bare. Neither connect to the sub nor are they used for the DMD (the other molex pin for the DMD I marked). Or one is from the sub and it's damaged.

Tried playing a game, when I hit the right flipper the game resets. Measuring continuity across the top flipper gets a beep on all 3 terminals. Perhaps the solenoid is shot? There was an extra diode on 2 of the terminals I left on it, perhaps that's shorting it? Perhaps the wiring is incorrect? Before I only had the lower flippers set up and both sets worked fine.

Need to take care of some stuff, and heading to a concert later. Maybe I'll throw the DMD filter on.

Not much progress today, just went up to Pinsider Gweempose's house to get the ramps riveted. Nice dude and verrrry nice collection! We popped in the rivets, talked some shop and played some games. His Safecracker was exceptionally cool.

Saw another concert tonight, came home exhausted and waxed the whole supercharger assembly. Just need to throw it together. Really silly how little time I have left in this and it's not done. Oh well, glad I'm seizing what's left of the summer.

Thanks for the kind words!

Snuck in 90 minutes today before heading to the fest:

Fixed the upper flipper - wires were reversed
Noticed all the flippers were missing lock washers on the coil stop bolts - fixed that, tightened them real good
Tightened all the solenoid mount screws
Popped in the DMD filter - real straight forward! Dims the display a bit but certainly looks nice. Hard to get a good picture because the playfield/backbox are so bright!
Installed the lifter ramp assembly
Reassembled the supercharger assembly

Need some wood screws to secure some plastics, but should be able to pop the supercharger in and be nearly done by the end of the weekend!

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Things left to do:

Mount, connect and test the supercharger
Fix the sub sound - figure out the stray 2 wires in the backbox
Mount the few plastics left
Test the lifter ramp assembly
Mount the wireforms
Level the game
Put rubber footies on the levelers
Figure out if the beacon motor is fried
Put some extra LED strips at the top and under the flippers
Fix the coin door reject buttons
Vacuum the inside

2+ hours tonight:
Found the strobe sockets for the supercharger!
Put on the remaining plastics
Mounted and cabled the supercharger
Mounted the habitrails
Put some mylar squares under the drop spots
Put in a few more cable management brackets
Vacuumed the cabinet - looking nice and clean!

Problems:
When touching the siderails and other stuff I receive a healthy shock
All the optos on the supercharger aren't registering - no IR being emitted, likely the board
The lifter ramp has trouble dropping down. I can push it down when it's clicking but it still pretty difficult. Gonna get a different coil from pinball life and maybe swap out some hardware.
A wire for the upper flipper came loose again. I hate having to bring back the soldering rig back into the cabinet.
The switch for the left habitrail is missing. I have the cable, need to get another switch.
A few small touchups on the playfield and cabinet to do

Problems for the future:
Couldn't figure out the cabinet speaker. Whatever, the DMD ones work.
The support on the right habitrail is missing, OK I guess. I have an extra one I can have someone weld on.

Certainly a large step forward! Doesn't play 100%, but certainly nice to look at.
Next step is to hit up Pinball Life and get these extra parts. Maybe Wednesday.
After that is to mod out the models and get them mounted.
Another thing to do is pick colors for the top and bottom. Thinking maybe UV at the bottom to make the bright orange pop. As for the top, maybe cool white to reflect nice off the supercharger.

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Fixed the supercharger in about 30 minutes.
Tested for power on the opto board and supercharger board, nothing.
J118 seemed to be missing, diggin around in the backbox I found a loose 12V (gray/yellow) wire. This makes sense as I had an extra 4 pin IDC connector.
Used the continuity meter to find the appropriate ground wire (1 of the strays in the backbox).
Works!

Measured 56VDC across the rails and playfield, very not good.
Tested the ground plug and it's fine - need to dig deeper.

The upper flipper is weird, the button contacts initially had some corrosion and weren't testing properly, now it is and the flipper still isn't working.

Lifter ramp is still an issue, couldn't be in a more difficult spot to inspect.

Well the upper flipper was just a fuse, seems to be OK now.
Also only getting 4VDC across the rail and playfield now, maybe there was a brief short?

Did the post sleeve trick for the lift ramp, it's a littttle bit better. After watching a member's youtube video I have a much better understanding of how it should work. Going to tweak the alignment of the coil. Also noticed that my spring is different. Getting a different one from pinball life tomorrow and hope it'll work.

Was playing a game and noticed the indistinguishable smell of burning electronics. Turned off the game and inspected it. The upper flipper was warm and had a slight burn on the coil sleeve where the wire was going it. Pretty sure I saved it in time. This flipper had an extra diode I didn't pay attention to. Going to replace both diodes.

Have a hot date tonight so hopefully won't have any more time to tinker with this tonightfeels better that I'm getting the game dialed in though!

Despite the date going well, I couldn't help myself in putting in 30 minutes before bed:

Fixed the flipper coil. Guessing the reverse current shorted the diode. Was getting continuity both ways. Went to remove the old diode and it was already blown in half! I haven't been kind to semiconductors this project. New diode and seems fine, saves me $12.

Messed with the lifter ramp a bit and it seems to be working much better now! I think a new spring could still benefit it. The rubber post is pretty key.

Leveled it a bit and played a few games, feels great! Loud as hell without the glass. Noticed the kickout hole switch wasn't working when playing. And after that game it said missing pinball... row out on the switch matrix. Oh well, should be an easy fix for another day. Worst case I have some spare U20's and 74LS374's.

Looking awesome and playing great, the end is near!

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Got my parts from pinball life today on my lunch.
Dropped an arcade off a buddy's house, hung out at my brother's house for a bit, got home late.
Had an hour before I needed to sleep.
Decided on a motorcycle ride and playing a few games at Logan Arcade instead of obsessing over installing little parts in this game.
Summer's almost over and I stand by my decision.

However, it is very sexy getting everything in individually wrapped baggies from Pinball Life.
Every trip there is a reminder of how this hobby can get pricey, but satisfying my obsession and making these games beautiful is certainly worth the effort.

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Well it works 100%

About 2 hours tonight while it's raining in Chicago.
Which puts it at about 40 hours over 39 days.

Fixed the shocking part. It was the diverter solenoid shorting on the mount. It was stupid because I saw that same issue in another thread, it could've been avoidable. However, I did trace it down like a goddamn ninja. Pinched some electrical tape between the solenoid and bracket.

Traced the janky switch row issue. Traced it down to the middle red target (which worked), and had on/off continuity when jiggling it. Desoldered, cut an inch off the ends of the wires, resoldered, works!

Replaced a few super bright LED's, installed the tilt mechanism, installed the lockdown bar screws, installed the glass and lockdown bar, leveled it.
Looks awesome, plays awesome.
However it's past 1AM so couldn't play it too loud as it's in my bedroom, it's above my downstairs neighbors bed

Got some minor touchups, and a few mods to do, but certainly a milestone.

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