Dang! Only 2 left! I know people were looking for a pf, hopefully they see that they're back in stock...
Dang! Only 2 left! I know people were looking for a pf, hopefully they see that they're back in stock...
Quoted from gliebig:Got the bounce dialed in.
Is that the only way dial in the bounce, pitch/side to side?? Maybe I need a bouncier rubber, but my Stars looks to have no chance of bouncing flipper to flipper.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Is that the only way dial in the bounce, pitch/side to side?? Maybe I need a bouncier rubber, but my Stars looks to have no chance of bouncing flipper to flipper.
I had trouble with mine. What helped for me was making sure there is no slop in the flippers, so they should spring down all the way to the alignment pins and rest firmly on those.
I used the smallest size rubber (small mini post) type
Quoted from koji:I had trouble with mine. What helped for me was making sure there is no slop in the flippers, so they should spring down all the way to the alignment pins and rest firmly on those.
I used the smallest size rubber (small mini post) type
Appreciate the tips
Thanks RumRunner9 i had missed out on the previous run but ordered this time.
Now will have something inside to do while waiting for better weather to re stencil my EBD
Quoted from gliebig:How do I reset the high score?
Quoted from DanMarino:Remove the battery?
Go into audits until you see the hstd 04 will be in the ball in play display. Once there press the button on the mpu to reset to zero then you can use the credit button to advance it in ten k increments.
While pulling the battery works I find it's best to do it the way it was designed.
George and I just recorded our latest episode all about Stars and the Stars alternative new playfield by Beehive pinball:
https://podbay.fm/p/the-classic-pinball-podcast/e/1658829949
The Classic Pinball Podcast available to listen to on your favorite podcast platform.
Alternate Stars playfield we talked about here:
https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/stars-custom-playfield
Quoted from Dantesmark:Damn thats pretty!
figured it's a keeper - so a new CPR playfield, plastics, Titan rubbers, new boards, displays and LED bulbs. Happy how it turned out
Im doing a playfield swap so thought I would revisit the one non-stern slingshot kicker arm and pivot I have. I know they are NLA but any chance of repro? Ive seen some ideas of Kerry doing them or PBL. Any traction or possibility?
If not anyone have a single extra arm and pivot?
Cant wait to play it without all the direction changes the ball takes when it hits bare wood.
Picked up a Stars project and going through to inventory what's missing. The good news is not much...but I'm having trouble finding a few things....
The whole left flipper assembly (aside from the bat) is missing. Can this be used as a drop in replacement?
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html
I have the lock bar but no receiver. Is trying to track a used one down my only option? I have a few local guys that have extra classic bally bars and receivers which I have no issue with, but can you just swap these between classic Bally and classic Sterns?
Quoted from grantopia:Picked up a Stars project and going through to inventory what's missing. The good news is not much...but I'm having trouble finding a few things....
The whole left flipper assembly (aside from the bat) is missing. Can this be used as a drop in replacement?
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html
I have the lock bar but no receiver. Is trying to track a used one down my only option? I have a few local guys that have extra classic bally bars and receivers which I have no issue with, but can you just swap these between classic Bally and classic Sterns?
That should work, regarding the flipper, but that is the type 2 mech vs the type 1 that would have come with it. I don't think PBL bothered making type one parts. You may wanna replace both, so they match. Up to you. I don't believe Stern/Bally bars and receivers are interchangeable.
Side note, that game is too old for your tastes. You should probably just trade it to me.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:That should work, regarding the flipper, but that is the type 2 mech vs the type 1 that would have come with it. I don't think PBL bothered making type one parts. You may wanna replace both, so they match. Up to you. I don't believe Stern/Bally bars and receivers are interchangeable.
Side note, that game is too old for your tastes. You should probably just trade it to me.
Ha hey I'm an old man at heart! Maybe I'll just replace both flipper mechs...as annoying as that is. I'll see if I can happen across a used one first.
On the lock bar situation I meant can I swap an entire bally assembly for a Stern one, so both the bar and the receiver would get flipped to a Bally. I wasn't sure if anyone had done this and the cabinet size/fit was the same...
Hope you're doing well man!
Quoted from grantopia:Ha hey I'm an old man at heart! Maybe I'll just replace both flipper mechs...as annoying as that is. I'll see if I can happen across a used one first.
On the lock bar situation I meant can I swap an entire bally assembly for a Stern one, so both the bar and the receiver would get flipped to a Bally. I wasn't sure if anyone had done this and the cabinet size/fit was the same...
Hope you're doing well man!
Couldn't resist. Back at ya. Swapping the entire receiver/bar combo should work. I know folks have done that in the past. I also believe Data East will fit classic Stern since they just picked up where they left off when Gary started DE.
Quoted from grantopia:Ha hey I'm an old man at heart! Maybe I'll just replace both flipper mechs...as annoying as that is. I'll see if I can happen across a used one first.
On the lock bar situation I meant can I swap an entire bally assembly for a Stern one, so both the bar and the receiver would get flipped to a Bally. I wasn't sure if anyone had done this and the cabinet size/fit was the same...
Hope you're doing well man!
I might have a version 1 plate around bit you'd still need the other parts, unless you got them in your stash
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Couldn't resist. Back at ya. Swapping the entire receiver/bar combo should work. I know folks have done that in the past. I also believe Data East will fit classic Stern since they just picked up where they left off when Gary started DE.
Thanks! Good call on the DE too that might be an option also! Bring me that TWD and maybe we'll talk ha!
Quoted from TheLaw:I might have a version 1 plate around bit you'd still need the other parts, unless you got them in your stash
Thanks! I have a buddy with the plate but I'd still need all the other parts...which I'm seeing is kind of a pain in the ass to figure out what the right part numbers are and what a complete list is...
Quoted from grantopia:which I'm seeing is kind of a pain in the ass to figure out what the right part numbers are and what a complete list is...
The type 2 flippers are just a better design all around. Type 1 will work just fine if you rebuild them, but the plates have a tendency to break at their thinnest point, and nobody is making the bushings, so you have to slice down a type 2 with a Dremel abrasive wheel or what have you.
Stern plates also get stripped out from the impact of the plunger on the coil stop, which means having to re-tap the hole for #8 screws. 40 year old high wear parts for which brand new replacements are available? Yes to that all day long.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:The type 2 flippers are just a better design all around. Type 1 will work just fine if you rebuild them, but the plates have a tendency to break at their thinnest point, and nobody is making the bushings, so you have to slice down a type 2 with a Dremel abrasive wheel or what have you.
Stern plates also get stripped out from the impact of the plunger on the coil stop, which means having to re-tap the hole for #8 screws. 40 year old high wear parts for which brand new replacements are available? Yes to that all day long.
Thanks, this is good to know. I may have a lead on a type 1 mech, but if that falls through I may just bite the bullet and grab 2 of the replacements from PBL and swallow the $120 ha. I don't really care about keeping it original, but if I can find a good replacement cheaper I'd prefer to try that route first.
Brought home my Stars last night.
Nice original condition.
Looking forward to a full rehab/shop job.
Always open to suggestions.
Pinball noob looking for tech help
I was playing Stars with my son and after our 5th game ended I press the button to place it on two players again and the game doesn’t start anymore
All the lights turn on but when I press the button the ball doesn’t kick out and nothing happens
Any idea what it might be
Thank you
Quoted from PappaDubz:Pinball noob looking for tech help
I was playing Stars with my son and after our 5th game ended I press the button to place it on two players again and the game doesn’t start anymore
All the lights turn on but when I press the button the ball doesn’t kick out and nothing happens
Any idea what it might be
Thank you
Not sure how long you've owned it but if you are new new, add some credits? If the boards are original, I don't believe there is a free play option.
Newovad - You are correct - there is no free play option on the original boards.
For the OP, go into settings and adjust the first points award to 10,000. Its nearly impossible to play a game without scoring that many points, and then you will always have credits available.
Quoted from Billc479:Its nearly impossible to play a game without scoring that many points
I swear I'm pretty good at pinball, Stars is just that hard sometimes lol
What would be the best way to go about getting a high resolution scan/picture of a Stars backglass? I'm going to have the art modified with display cutouts removed for a project I'm doing and displays will be located below the translite rather than inside of it. So, it will be modified quite a bit. But I'd prefer to start with as high resolution a photo as possible.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:What would be the best way to go about getting a high resolution scan/picture of a Stars backglass? I'm going to have the art modified with display cutouts removed for a project I'm doing and displays will be located below the translite rather than inside of it. So, it will be modified quite a bit. But I'd prefer to start with as high resolution a photo as possible.
Not sure about a scan, but maybe check out the b2s backglass for the virtual game as an option.
What pitch do people have their game set at? Mine is around 5.5 and it seems to play super fast. Not sure if that's how most play or if I need to lower it down a bit.
Like ever other game: all the way up in back, all the way down in front.
Pinball is supposed to be fast.
I just picked up a Stars, one of its main issues is one of the chimes sound is very weak (the chime that plays while the spinner scores and various other switches)
Originally it was worse, where I only heard a faint and intermittent chime strike
--I removed the solenoid sleeve and wiped it clean and the metal component, after cleaning it seems to be working better, but not playing the proper note.
Should I look at replacing this solenoid? Or could it be an issue somewhere like the solenoid driver board?
Here is a video of the chime unit in action. https://streamable.com/a054cj
signal-2022-09-28-23-35-51-566 (resized).jpg
Quoted from cws204:I just picked up a Stars, one of its main issues is one of the chimes sound is very weak (the chime that plays while the spinner scores and various other switches)
Originally it was worse, where I only heard a faint and intermittent chime strike
--I removed the solenoid sleeve and wiped it clean and the metal component, after cleaning it seems to be working better, but not playing the proper note.
Should I look at replacing this solenoid? Or could it be an issue somewhere like the solenoid driver board?
Here is a video of the chime unit in action. https://streamable.com/a054cj
[quoted image]
Isn't just shortening the chime sound becasue it's activating so quickly? What happens with 1 spin only? I feel like it sounds normal early in the video when it's only struck once.
Quoted from TheLaw:Isn't just shortening the chime sound becasue it's activating so quickly? What happens with 1 spin only? I feel like it sounds normal early in the video when it's only struck once.
So the first chime in the video was me pressing the test button, and I agree it sounds normal there with one note struck. The rest of the video I was pressing the inlane switch, When the ball hits the spinner it is essentially the same (hearing just a faint tick tick tick) same with drop targets, essentially in its current state there is hardly any chimes in the game as I think this is the chime that is used for most of the switches.
The nylon nub wears down you need to replace it. Sometimes you can cheat a little and put some dense foam under the plunger to get some more life out of it.
Nothing to do with the solenoid though.
Could someone share a image of the knocker assembly in Stars?
I have noticed the knocker in my new Stars game is not working, and I actually can't find it. Is the knocker located in the top left of the backbox? I do have a unplugged connector there.
Quoted from cws204:Is the knocker located in the top left of the backbox? I do have a unplugged connector there.
Yep that's where it is.
Quoted from cws204:Could someone share a image of the knocker assembly in Stars?
I have noticed the knocker in my new Stars game is not working, and I actually can't find it. Is the knocker located in the top left of the backbox? I do have a unplugged connector there.
Quoted from RumRunner9:[quoted image]
Thank you! Yep definitely missing the entire Knocker assembly in my Stars. Now to find a Classic Stern Knocker.. Nothing on Ebay. I placed a Wanted ad on Pinside.
Quoted from cws204:Thank you! Yep definitely missing the entire Knocker assembly in my Stars. Now to find a Classic Stern Knocker.. Nothing on Ebay. I placed a Wanted ad on Pinside.
Marco sells https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10686-1 which will work if you don't mind not being 100% original.
could someone share an image of their rectifier board for me. I have replaced my board and connectors and want to verify my wiring. I am having an issue with coil voltage, only getting 6 volts?
Quoted from SteveF-Detroit:I have replaced my board and connectors and want to verify my wiring. I am having an issue with coil voltage, only getting 6 volts?
Post a picture of your connector/wiring. Likely your new board has 9 pins for the playfield J1 connector and your old board had 8 pins. Usually results in people wiring/installing the playfield connector offset by one pin.
Quoted from Quench:Post a picture of your connector/wiring. Likely your new board has 9 pins for the playfield J1 connector and your old board had 8 pins. Usually results in people wiring/installing the playfield connector offset by one pin.
Quoted from SteveF-Detroit:I have replaced my board and connectors and want to verify my wiring.
It should be like the diagram below. You have all the wires offset in the housing to the right one position. Unfortunately some of your playfield feature lamps are likely blown since they received 43 volts.
Make sure you somehow block pin location 4 in the housing to prevent it being installed offset down the track.
I am working on my chime unit and was going to replace all the sleeves when I noticed one sleeve is melted and stuck inside a solenoid.
I have a cc-31-2000 solenoid on hand I am going to replace it with, I broke the old resistor trying to remove off the old solenoid and can't read the number.
What Diode should I use on a chime solenoid?
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