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(Topic ID: 220286)

Reach for the Stars!.. Stern Stars club.. Space travelers welcome.


By o-din

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 270 posts
  • 70 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by rotordave
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Stars Stern Electronics, 1978

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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 270 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 33 days ago
Quoted from PinZig:

I put a set of the hooded reproduction drops in my stars. A lot of hard shots tended to brick off of the drops and leave them standing. I have since refreshed the original drops and reinstalled. Now they will drop from the slightest hit to even the hardest hit >95% of the time. Much happier with the originals back in it.

Thanks for the info. I decided to skip replacing all 6 and just do the one broken one and one hooded on my machine, then replace as necessary

So much work to do but just watched PAPAs demo of the game and can't wait to get it up and running, shooting for xmas but hoping for Tgiving to have it done.

#252 33 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

For those of you that have changed your drop targets with the hooded version do you find the hood affects gameplay or function much?

I can’t speak for most Stars owners but, I went ahead and shaved off all the extra bits and pieces from the new repro targets and made them look and behave like the old targets did. (Switching green to blue of course...)

No bricks; easy glancing occasional side sweeps can be done too without a hangup.
No accidental drops or vibration related problems either.
Just takes a bit of time to match all the dimensions from the old targets.

Only downside from my PBR batch order was, the red stars were printed slightly lower than the blue ones. Other than that, they’ve been holding strong many MANY games later since I installed them, back in 2013.

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#253 33 days ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

I can’t speak for most Stars owners but, I went ahead and shaved off all the extra bits and pieces from the new repro targets and made them look and behave like the old targets did. (Switching green to blue of course...)
No bricks; easy glancing occasional side sweeps can be done too without a hangup.
No accidental drops or vibration related problems either.
Just takes a bit of time to match all the dimensions from the old targets.
Only downside from my PBR batch order was, the red stars were printed slightly lower than the blue ones. Other than that, they’ve been holding strong many MANY games later since I installed them, back in 2013.
[quoted image]

When you say matched dimensions, did you do some shave/sand type work to get them working better?

Also there are decals in the pinside shops if you want to get the stars to line up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02155-vinyl-star-decals-for-drop-targets-blue-and-red-stars

#254 33 days ago

When I modeled the Classic Stern 13A-11 Drops I learnt there are some differences:

This is a comparison between a Stern and Bally Drop Target from the 80's.
drops (resized).png
Stern on the left and Bally on the right - there are alot of simularities - like the spring attachment hole the ledge that the target sits on or the rib if you assembly is flipped for no rib.
The major difference is the target height as well as the extension on the bottom for switch activation

On Shapeways I have the 2 types - rib and no rib

From here it comes down to what you want to install

hope it helps

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#255 33 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

When I modeled the Classic Stern 13A-11 Drops I learnt there are some differences:
This is a comparison between a Stern and Bally Drop Target from the 80's.
[quoted image]
Stern on the left and Bally on the right - there are alot of simularities - like the spring attachment hole the ledge that the target sits on or the rib if you assembly is flipped for no rib.
The major difference is the target height as well as the extension on the bottom for switch activation
On Shapeways I have the 2 types - rib and no rib
From here it comes down to what you want to install
hope it helps[quoted image][quoted image]

I wonder if that rib on the Sterns is what makes it not brick, at least with originals. My guess would be that it’s stiffer because of that and doesn’t spring back into place before the drop moves down far enough so that it can’t catch the lip again. Some high speed video of that would be cool.

#256 33 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I wonder if that rib on the Sterns is what makes it not brick, at least with originals. My guess would be that it’s stiffer because of that and doesn’t spring back into place before the drop moves down far enough so that it can’t catch the lip again. Some high speed video of that would be cool.

based on what I learned and trialed: is that what the drops are raised the rib or no rib of the drop target rest on the plate and depends on your assembly. I experimented and flipped the top plate over and then the non-rib design worked fine as well.

Here is a stern assembly with the ribbed drops

I also did a upgrade of each drop and filled in the back of the ball hitting target section to beef it up. The downside is Shapeways stuff is not cheap but a option at the very least. But shapeways have introduced a discount on multiple items at checkout.

#257 33 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

based on what I learned and trialed: is that what the drops are raised the rib or no rib of the drop target rest on the plate and depends on your assembly. I experimented and flipped the top plate over and then the non-rib design worked fine as well.
Here is a stern assembly with the ribbed drops
I also did a upgrade of each drop and filled in the back of the ball hitting target section to beef it up. The downside is Shapeways stuff is not cheap but a option at the very least. But shapeways have introduced a discount on multiple items at checkout.

I was talking to another pinhead about backfilling that opening and maybe that would help. Haven’t done anything about it yet, but maybe someday.

#258 33 days ago

on this link is the standard with and without rib, then same again with the back infilled and then a bally for comparison and some other bally stuff

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdrops&sort=newest

#259 33 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

When you say matched dimensions, did you do some shave/sand type work to get them working better?

Xacto to flush chop the big stuff and fine scalpel to trim any other imperfections.

Quoted from DudeRegular:

Also there are decals

No way José.
Not that anal to want to correct such a silly thing like that.
Less friction/force to drop sans decal too.

2 weeks later
#260 15 days ago

Coming along. Playfield touch up complete.

Putting out another call for anyone who knows a clear coater in Portland

Next is electrical after a couple cabinet leg mods

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#261 14 days ago

BTW. Anybody ever figure out the font for the center points column? I need to make a 1000 decal

#262 14 days ago

Scan the 10,000 section then cut out 0, from it

#263 14 days ago

Hi folks,
I just joined the club! What should I do about the battery on the mpu. First, how to remove it. Secondly, what is the proper solution? Can NV Ram be installed or do I need to have the battery moved off of the mpu?
Thanks gang

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#264 14 days ago
Quoted from Ryguy25:

Hi folks,
I just joined the club! What should I do about the battery on the mpu. First, how to remove it. Secondly, what is the proper solution? Can NV Ram be installed or do I need to have the battery moved off of the mpu?
Thanks gang
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Snip it off. Looks like Q4 on the board below might be infected so while you are cleaning the MPU, make sure to get that area of the light board as well.

#265 14 days ago

Clip the battery off, then most people recommend 50/50 vinegar water solution to rinse off the areas of leakage that are still likely causing corrosion. Rinse that with alcohol to dry. Lots of videos on saving boards out there so there is quite a bit of variability of techniques.

Mine had significantly more battery damage than yours but it still looks like you have a couple areas that may need replaced. I used GerberDesigns corrosion kit because he had some really nice videos on Youtube (under bally corrosion). Great Plains also has a kit but they were out of stock.

Because of my level of corrosion I went ahead and bought a Alltek board during PBLs sale. I still tried to salvage the old board though because once mine is up and running I really want to try to build the Stars 2020 code mod and its still unclear to me if that can be done with a Alltek.

#266 10 days ago

Have my project stars playing now. Thanks to a few of you who clued me into needing U2 inserted to start the boot. After replacing the corrosion zone it came to life easier than any other of this generation including the masked ROMs and all big chips actually working.

Hardest board I’ve ever had to melt solder though but done. Took 13 connectors til I had 100% lights switches and displays.

Have mismatched sling levers so need to sort that out. Also is the oven state of the art for flattening the plastics at this time of year?

Here is the pile of parts it took. All leftovers from a centaur project. First stern in the lineup. Woohoo

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#267 10 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

Have my project stars playing now. Thanks to a few of you who clued me into needing U2 inserted to start the boot. After replacing the corrosion zone it came to life easier than any other of this generation including the masked ROMs and all big chips actually working.
Hardest board I’ve ever had to melt solder though but done. Took 13 connectors til I had 100% lights switches and displays.
Have mismatched sling levers so need to sort that out. Also is the oven state of the art for flattening the plastics at this time of year?
Here is the pile of parts it took. All leftovers from a centaur project. First stern in the lineup. Woohoo
[quoted image][quoted image]

I flattened some plastics with a heat gun and two pieces of glass. Keep the heat moving so as not to do any damage to a certain area.

#268 9 days ago

Has anyone installed one of the new CPR or Beehive playfields for their Stars yet?

#269 9 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

Has anyone installed one of the new CPR or Beehive playfields for their Stars yet?

Was wondering this myself.

Has anyone considered trying to populate that alternative Beehive playfield piece by piece, essentially keeping your standard playfield and populating the other to trade out? Other than the hassle of wiring does that sound insane?

#270 9 days ago

Hi all!

I just re-acquired my infamous $400 Stars!

Since I sold it 5 years ago, it’s been rethemed by Vodafone and used as an in store display, and just recently as a movie prop in the upcoming Bebop Deluxe, shot here in Auckland.

It’s getting a full ground up restore, same as the others I’ve posted up on Pinside before. Proper sprayed cabinet etc etc.

What I need to know - can someone help with the Pantone colours for the original cabinet? As you can see, mine isn’t blue anymore.

rd

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There are 270 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.

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