Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995I have two re-import machines (TOM and TAF) and both have lira coin door labels and mechs. Is it worth it to convert them to US? Does it change the value much? Obviously I'm not entirely obsessed with them being 100% US or I would be on this but I wonder if resell value is hurt or if it's easy enough (and cheap enough) to do then maybe I should?
Quoted from harryhoudini:I have two re-import machines (TOM and TAF) and both have lira coin door labels and mechs. Is it worth it to convert them to US? Does it change the value much? Obviously I'm not entirely obsessed with them being 100% US or I would be on this but I wonder if resell value is hurt or if it's easy enough (and cheap enough) to do then maybe I should?
Not really; it’s like getting your house repainted - might help sell it, but it doesn’t really affect the value that much. Nobody really cares if they are reimported or not, provided they’re working, etc. One buyer may care about the coin door, another may not. They’re about $150 and take about 10 minutes to install, so up to you.
Yeah I mean me personally, I'm never going to route the things so doesn't matter to me at all. I got some Deutschmarks, maybe some Lira...kind of cool.
If someone is buying my game and is complaining aboot the coin mechs I'll just let them pass it on to the next person.
Are you talking about the coin mech or the coin door?
The coin mechs can be had for about $10 and you can print or buy generic return reject label for nothing/cheap. But, having or not having them should change the value of the pin. Plus I think most people put their pins on free play.
If you are talking the whole coin door then, yeah, it gets expensive.
Just the mechs. I can see the paper in the coin mech was actually changed (cut) already. Can you point me to where I could get the coin mech in the door for $10 for TOM and TAF? I mean, ideally I'd like to have the games complete.. I spent a lot of time getting plastics and cleaning and such so it'd be nice to fix if that is the cost.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Can you point me to where I could get the coin mech in the door for $10 for TOM and TAF?
https://www.pinballlife.com/25-cent-standard-coin-mech.html
LTG : )
If your door is a single chute door, then it likely has a programmable electronic coin mech. You'd have to ship the mech to someone to have it programmed to accept quarters or else you'd have to swap the entire door for a conventional coin acceptor (two chutes) door.
If your door is a two or three chute door, then all you'd need to do is swap out the foreign mechs for quarters mechs and change the labels inside the buttons.
Quoted from KenLayton:If your door is a single chute door, then it likely has a programmable electronic coin mech. You'd have to ship the mech to someone to have it programmed to accept quarters or else you'd have to swap the entire door for a conventional coin acceptor (two chutes) door.
If your door is a two or three chute door, then all you'd need to do is swap out the foreign mechs for quarters mechs and change the labels inside the buttons.
Hey Ken, thanks. I believe they are either two or three chute.
Crazy, thanks!
So, would you or KenLayton mind confirming based on the pictures if that is correct for me?
Also, as you can see on TAF someone jerry-rigged one of the coin slots. Would these parts fix that?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-wpc-era-25-cent-chute.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-wpc-era-coin-reject-button.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-wpc-era-coin-reject-button-cover.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/paper-quarters-push-to-reject-coin-slot-insert.html
I'm the kind of person who would just replace all of those items (and paint the entire door) as long as I am doing it. So if those items work for both games that would be excellent.
Thanks!
0103191847 (resized).jpg0103191847a (resized).jpg0103191847b (resized).jpg0103191847c (resized).jpg0103191847d (resized).jpgIncidentally. The link for the coin mech. That mech has two screw in posts and three holes on each side for various mounting on different coin doors. Your door would have two posts on one side high and low, and none on the other. Study the ones you remove.
LTG : )
Yes, all those parts work on both of your doors. However, you forgot to add the coin reject button conical spring:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-coin-return-compression-spring.html
Quoted from KenLayton:Yes, all those parts work on both of your doors. However, you forgot to add the coin reject button conical spring:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-coin-return-compression-spring.html
HA... I actually had that in my cart thinking I would need it. Thanks!
This is on TAF. Could someone here tell me why the coin door lights wouldn't be working? I see they are violet/white violet and go to J119, if I remember what I just read. Is there a fuse just for them? I guess I'll need to go try to read the schematic (takes a long time just to find what I'm looking for!) and see what else is upstream of the connector.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Could someone here tell me why the coin door lights wouldn't be working?
Bad bulbs, bad sockets, bad wiring, not plugged in. ?
Could be lots of things.
Shouldn't be to hard to follow. Coin door light - coin door interface board - driver board.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Bad bulbs, bad sockets, bad wiring, not plugged in. ?
Could be lots of things.
Shouldn't be to hard to follow. Coin door light - coin door interface board - driver board.
LTG : )
Is that really it? Is there no triac or other device on the driver board? Or is this some common voltage that other thing also use?
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