Probably different versions of software. Ripley's had a lot of very different versions.

Optical switches show normally closed (square filled in) on the display (nothing blocking the optos), micro switches show normally open.

Follow the wires from each of the opto pairs under the playfield to the small opto boards they connect to. Shrunken head opto board may be on the back panel, can't remember. Should be at least one red opto lit on each board. If no lit leds, power off, reseat all connectors, then power up and see if the leds come on.

Those old Whitestar optos don't age well and quickly become susceptible to phantom closures due to nearby flashers. Replacement optos are cheap and don't require any soldering. Idol and shrunken head are most susceptible to phantom closures, but do the mini ramp optos too. They're probably original.

Nice work. Listen for idol noises while playing when the ball isn't near the idol. That will be the sign that those need replacing. Even with incandescent flashers, those lower two white flashers blast across the playfield wreaking havoc with old opto switches (and the player).

A little late, but yes, flaky optos are common on Ripley's and all Stern Whitestar games that use those optos. They don't age well and become susceptible to phantom hits from flashers and other lights. On Ripley's, original optos combined with LED lighting is a recipe for switch matrix disaster.

The Idol optos are the most exposed. If you're hearing the goofy idol noises when a ball isn't anywhere near it, you need new optos. Shrunken head optos can also get phantom hits. The pair on the upper loop are more hidden, but still should be replaced based on age alone. Replacement optos are available and no soldering needed. Cheap and simple upgrade.

Have you played Rush?

Side/ lower scoop in roughly the same position
Left orbit shot through pops
Upper loop repeatable from upper right flipper
Three ramps
Center ramp is major shot

Rules aside, very similar play IMO. Not a big fan of the band, but enjoying the game so far. If you like Ripley's, give it a try.

If you're on older code, chances are good it was a software problem. Early code was very buggy. Get to at least 3.0 if you're not there. Don't forget to order the video ROM too.

If software is newish, another possible cause is the opto switches. If they're all original, replace them. They don't age we'll and become very susceptible to phantom hits from flashers and other lamps. Can confuse the switch matrix. LED'd games almost guarantee it (with factory optos). Assuming you've inspected/ reseated trough board connectors.

Never heard of feature setting 6 effecting magnet throws. Regardless, a few suggestions...

Make sure there's no wax or mylar anywhere near the magnet core. Both absolutely will affect the magnet throw. Novus 2 will remove wax. Make sure pitch is within one or two tenths of 6.5 degrees measured between the flippers. Not over 6.5. If shrunken head optos are original, replace both, idol pair too. Whitestar optos didn't age well. Lastly, make sure you're on the latest code or one back at the most. Early Ripley's code was very buggy. If you're currently running newer code, do a factory reset to clear any settings not factory. Compare your results to video on pinballvideos.com. You'll never get every throw to the pops, but watching video will give you an idea of how yours is doing.

First or second diagnostics button push will also show running versions on the display. I kept mine one version back because they removed a hurry up mode in final 3.2.

Standard adjustment Fast Boot should always be enabled on Whitestar games, when available. Make sure yours is set to yes.