Thanks to Markharris2000 I am now a club member. I've had the game on stream a few times now, and trying to reach Atlantis is going to keep me busy for a while, for sure!
(Topic ID: 90719)
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Ripley's Believe It or Not!
Stern, 2004
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4 months later
So I've got a bit of a mystery with my GI circuit, figured I'd ask here to hopefully save a bit of diagnostic time. As soon as I push a flipper button, most of the GIs go out and F27 is blown.
I've seen the PinWiki info about C32 leaking to ground, except opening the coin door doesn't bring the GI circuit back. Replacing F27 gets the GIs working again until I push the flipper button, although the game works fine outside of the GI failure. Has anyone seen this behavior already? Figured I would ask before I start chasing the feed going into F27.
1 week later
Quoted from Markharris2000:Sounds like a short to me, likely under the playfield, where a wire from the flipper coil is somehow touching a wire from the GI. It's a tedious investigation, but if you follow everything associated with the flipper coils, you'll likely find a problem with a GI socket touching something it shouldn't be touching that is part of the flipper wiring, etc.
I got it sorted out, and you weren't too far off. After I lifted the PF to check the wiring, the F27 fuse started to blow right away when I turned the machine on. I ended up pulling every violet GI circuit bulb and checking the sockets. A small bead of solder got into the bulb socket under the right sling. The right side flipper apparently had enough vibration force to cause the short that killed the fuse. I removed the solder bead, hit all of the sockets with a shot of compressed air, replaced the LED for good measure, and all was well after that.
4 weeks later
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Mine doesn't have an LED ocd board and it looks great. I just use Comet non ghosting bulbs everywhere and have no issues. Frosted lens in both GI and controlled lighting. I'm doing this in multiple machines. EATPM, BSD, FT, and RBION. No need for an OCD board. No Good Gophers is up next.
Watch the RBION attract mode, it's a terrible flickering mess with LEDs. Non-ghosting LEDs prevent dim insert glowing when inserts should be off, although they don't do anything for brightness transition problems.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:So, what you're saying is, add leds, then add a board to make the leds not look like leds?
Just ribbing you a bit. I totally understand the benefit of leds over incandescents. And, I understand how some people prefer the gradual fade of original bulbs. However, my leds look great to me, and I've never once had 1 person look at any of my games and suggest that I need a control board. So, to each their own I guess.
It's not exclusive to gradual fade, it's anytime the inserts should have a brightness between fully on and fully off. There is no brightness spectrum without the OCD board; LEDs will be off, flicker at full brightness, or solid on at full brightness. Here's a bulb comparison showing cropped from my prior RBION streams of Incandescent vs. LED vs. LED+OCD:
1 month later
Quoted from Seamlesswall:I went on Youtube to watch what actually happens, this guy plays and plays for what seems like eternity, and then not surprisingly, he makes an edit right before Froggy Frenzy because he didn't actually do it, he had to set it up for the final shot.
"That guy" is Keith Elwin:
2 weeks later
Quoted from RTS:Couldn't a dremel be used to slim the post if it is mushroomed?
Once you get it out of the machine, sure, although it would be easier to get new parts at that point.
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