Nice!! I gotta get mine all tuned up first though

So, on my new RBION, the plain flat black speaker cover bugs me. I'm thinking of buying a spare and painting it a color that flows better with the rest of the game. Another idea would be to print off some vintage ripleys images from the Web and apply them to the panel sort of like the art on the side of the cabinet, then clear the whole thing. Or even print off one large Ripleys logo, and "wrap" the panel. Suggestions? Comments? Better ideas?

You may very well be right. I might just mock up some pieces of wood and try multiple ideas. Looks like the original cover is just 3/4" MDF anyway.

Oh yeah! That would look good! You talking about that bamboo looking grass textured wallpaper? Like this stuff?

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Noob question, but where/who does repairs on those? Just in case I ever need em'

I'll have to investigate that

So here's a question, I'll try and be clear...lol When I light the lock for multiball, and the right ramp lock is lit, I hit the first ball up the ramp, it drops into that lock chute, and the game says "ball 1 locked". I launch a new ball, lock is still lit. I hit the second ball up the right ramp into the chute. Instead of saying "ball 2 locked", it ejects both balls. Lock is still lit. If I manage to hit another ball up the ramp, it then says "ball 2 locked" even though there's 1 ball in the chute, and 1 in play. I can then hit the shrunken head for 3 ball multi ball. Is that normal?

There's definately 4 balls installed. It's a new machine for me, and I was certain that for a while it was 1 ball lock, then 2 balls locked, then the head for multiball. It's just started this weird behavior of lock 1, then 2nd lock ball gets ejected, then hit the lock again for 2 locked balls. I have a feeling it's something to do with the second rollover switch. I'll check now

The wires under the switches all look good. Switches feel good, the wires under the second rollover did come loose during transport, but I resoldered them and they're solid. Is there a multiball difficult setting in the menus?

Just did a switch test, they all indicate active when I touch them

Did a factory reset. It behaved normally 1 time then went back to the weird behavior. Here's a link to a quick youtube video I made of the behavior.

Lol, making fun of me... I did good to get that thing posted

Ok, problem solved, take note in case you ever run into this. The top most rollover switch wire was tweaked underneath the playfield. It was bent just right so that most of the time the switch was closed but not always. I just bent the wire a bit so the switch could open and close freely, and problem solved!

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Ok, last question, hopefully... sorry guys... if there are balls left in the right side lock when the game ends, should the game eject them automatically? My machine isn't.

Thanks a ton everyone! I appreciate your help and patience with a new pinball owner! I'm learning alot FAST!

Just curious, has anyone had any success getting the ball to travel from the shooter all the way around to the pop bumpers at the top? Or does everyone's ball just bump the post like mine? Even after adjusting.

Yes, I do mean across the playfield and back around to the right. I can always do a soft plunge to hit the skill shot. Or, is it even supposed to go all the way around? It just seems like it's not supposed to hit the post at full plunge strength, is it?

Super jackpot plunge would definitely be nice during multiball. Maybe I'll just adjust it to hit that

This wasn't my idea, I saw someone else here do it, but I have a couple penguins now over the penguin lane!

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What color spring are you using?

http://www.ezpartyzone.com/pd-penguin-figurine-party-favor-1-ct.cfm?gclid=CjwKEAjwwcjGBRDj-P7TwcinyBkSJADymblTpdeK2exqzqDHj1SFCfwGpBH_zSqwjXfwoCZR8CAGPBoCrVzw_wcB#firstfold

Super cheap

Hey guys, I need a replacement switch for under the ball scoop. I can't seem to find an exact part # or replacement. I was hoping to avoid buying a generic switch and bending it to work. The closest thing I can find is this one from pinball life. Any ideas? Thanks!

Screenshot_20170508-094507 (resized).png

Oh sweet!! That's an exact bolt on? No bending required? I'm not sure how I overlooked that one.

Thanks a ton man

Definitely report back to us, I'm curious what the main differences are to a player's eye. Not just technical specs.

So, recently, my RBION has started acting up again. This time, the temple code keeps changing and making the slot machine noise. Sometimes back to back. Any ideas on what may be going on? I'm thinking dirty optics. Maybe? Hopefully just a cleaning needed?

Well, I located the opto controller board under the playfield, everything looked ok, but I unplugged and replugged the connectors that go to the optos. Just made sure everything was seated nice and tight. The game seems to work fine now......lol. such finicky machines

Mine also drops a bit off sometimes. Seems random. Just depends on how the ball hits the bottom. I just assumed that was normal. Maybe just slightly bend the 1 wire to the left? Encourage the ball to drop right?

As I was browsing games and their ratings comments earlier, I noticed one that confused me and made me want to vent just a bit. The most recent rating comment for our Ripleys machine says that he feels the game is "Problematic in its depiction of people of color". What is this guy seeing that I'm not? Is it the shrunken head on the backglass? The Jamaican accent? If that's the case, someone needs to lighten up. Can anyone shed some light on this? Anyway, that's my rant

I guess so....lol.

My scoop had broken welds on the right side when I bought the game. It wasn't apparent until I removed the whole mechanism and looked at it. It's a wonder they're not all broken from the abuse that thing takes. I had it spot welded back up. Works like a charm now.

Awesome! I'm hoping to get one sometime for mine

Not that I'm aware of. Mine just lifts out once the lock is undone. It can be a bit stubborn sometimes

You can reset through the software I'm 99% sure. Latest code should be 3.2. Not sure about the freezing up problem. I'm kind of a noob, some guys here with much more experience can probably help you out on that one

I bet you money it's a broken weld. Mine did almost the same thing until rewelded.
Edit: just saw your post above saying the welds looked good. mine has a cliffy and it doesn't affect the ball trajectory at all. I'd just tweak the scoop

Ohhh yikes!!! How creepy! Maybe a welcome addition to an AF machine though

Hey guys, maybe a dumb question, but after I finish a continent, what triggers the next continent to start blinking on the playfield?

Thanks!!

One more thing I havnt figured out. What's the function of the sign in the back right corner that says " believe it or not, kick up score when lit" and it has the A, B, C that are sometimes lit.

Yes, it's hard to explain though. I was shown in person by another Rbion owner, and it works once you adjust. I place my thumb against the lockdown bar, and push back on the plunger with my "bird" finger. Let the plunger snap off your finger once proper tension is reached. It's far more precise and consistent. I can hit the skill shot about every 3rd shot

What he said It's definitely easier to hit the ramps with the left flipper, but with some practice, you can use the right also.

Left ramp with right flipper rarely happens for me. Almost always just an accident.

Mine goes to the right maybe 1 out of 7 times. The rubbers and posts definitely slope to the left.

While we're talking about the top right area, can someone explain the rules/rewards with this part of the machine? I've owned the game about a year now, and can't figure out any correlation between this display, and rewards.

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Ahhh!! I see, it's the scoop, not the Vuk! Man, that is confusing given it's location. Totally makes sense now. Thanks!

Sweet!! It's a fun and challenging game. I've realized there's modes and graphics I'll never get to see

I tried also with no success. I just eventually beat the damn score Maybe someone here with more experience can help you out. Good luck!

Hi everyone, I need some help. I've noticed an abnormality on my Ripley's Game. What is happening is this, if you have two balls in the right side lock, and then you start a continent mode which requires two balls on the Playfield such as North America or Antarctica, the game puts the two balls out onto the Playfield as it should, and then continuously keeps trying to eject another ball. If you drain a ball on the Playfield, it's simply ejects it back out and you keep going. This will continue indefinitely you cannot get it to stop that I can tell. The only way to end it is to turn the game off or tilt. It doesn't happen if there's only one ball in the right side lock, only when there's two balls in the right side lock and a continent mode is started that requires two balls on the Playfield. Has anyone else experienced this?

Happens every time. Must be 2 balls in right side lock, then start any continent that requires 2 balls on the playfield. May as well turn the game off....

You have a chance to check out your machine yet? Mine did it 2x tonight. I had a nice score going, then accidentally triggered the problem again. Completely ruined my game. I'm just totally stumped at this behavior

Ok, I figured out my issue. There are 3 rollover switches and 2 opto switches in the ball trough. All rollover switches checked out fine. The problem was the forward most optic board. Apparently it is very sensitive to how it is positioned and it has rubber bushings in the screw holes that hold it in place. Anyway, long story short, it just needed repositioning. It was registering as if a ball was there when one wasnt. So, when all four balls were out on the playfield, it was still trying to eject another. BubbaBeast, hope it's that easy a fix for you as well

This board is right up front, right hand side. Mine needed to rotate slightly counterclockwise.

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Nice! Also, just an update for you regarding the optic board issue. Mine keeps misbehaving. I can adjust it and it acts fine for a few games, then starts acting up again. I've tried reflowing the solder points on the boards but it didn't help. I've now ordered a new transmitter/receiver board set. The pair was $13.99.... no brainer there. I'll let you know if that finally fixes the problem for good

Mine was plug and play also. A guy here on the forum sells them. I forgot his username though it took literally about 30 minutes to install it and I think it looks great

Anyone have part #'s for the 2 opto boards under the shrunken head? I can't seem to find it in my manual. I'm having spotty opto issues there. Already ordered a new opto amplifier board for under the playfield. Thanks!

Btw, the new optos for the trough fixed my weird issue I asked about a few weeks ago

I found the optics and have them on order. Now the big question... has anyone replaced them yet? How the hell am I supposed to get to them?! The ones at the shrunken head

Yes, the actual sender and receiver units. They look absolutely buried

Thanks for the pics TheLaw!

Looks good ! Is that a color DMD installed? Does anyone here have a color DMD installed? I just ordered the LCD version for mine last night. What's your thoughts on it?

I don't mind the $400 bucks. I was at a locar bar that has 5 privately owned machines on location, all of which had color dmds in them. That's all it took for me. Seeing those graphics in all their glory Besides, I'm justifying it by saying it's my birthday present to myself

Help me out guys. I'm in the middle of installing my new color DMD. The plastic cover for my old DMD on my Ripley's machine is red. Is this new color DMD meant to work with that red cover? Should I have purchased a clear cover? I don't see anything in the instruction manual about a red lens. Has anyone else run into this?

I guess it was replaced because it is definitely red...lol. I went ahead and installed the new dmd without any cover for now just to see how it looked. Clear one is on order
The new display is pretty impressive although I was hoping for a bit better on the resolution. It's sort of blocky honestly.

Thanks everyone! I bought the Lcd version and just got done playing with the settings. I'm very happy with the way the settings for dots and dots XL, and even tile look. That is what I was expecting. The display just came preset out of the box to the scan setting, which I wasn't a big fan of. I wanted the display to mimic the look of the old DMD, but in color of course. The dots setting, or the dots XL setting do this perfectly. Now that I have it set to dots XL, I'm 100% satisfied with my purchase. Now just to get that clear piece of Plexi installed!

Just some helpful info here. The optics for the shrunken head aren't nearly as difficult as one might expect to swap out. Just pop off the shrunken head, remove four 8mm lock nuts that hold the plastics in place, and bingo. You now have access to the 4 screws that secure the optics. It's tight quarters in there for sure, and pretty fiddly, but definitely less labor than I expected. Whole process took about 45 minutes. No more false hits, plus, the magnet seems to launch the ball much stronger now

Mine just has a regular 12v red led in it, and it's worked for hundreds of games now. I hope your issue isn't something deeper than an Led. Is the game new to you?

My magnet started doing the same thing a few weeks before my optics under the head went bad. I have no idea why/how/or even if the 2 are related, but eventually the optics wouldn't stop the ball under the head. After replacing the optics, bingo, the magnet now works great.

I've never had any issues with mine. However, if it's already mushrooming, I imagine you'll need to remove it, and bring it back to level again. It's super easy to adjust, so removal shouldn't be too bad. Once it's level just put it back in the machine level with the playfield, and you should be good to go

Wouldn't the ball wear a hole through the tape almost instantly over the magnet? Then it would start getting sticky residue on the rest of the playfield and the balls themselves?

Yes, agreed, but packing tape is super thin. I bet you it wears through after just a few stops. Plus, the magnet is exerting enough force on the ball that it "mushrooms" the top of the magnet. I'd be genuinely surprised if it survives. No one I know of puts mylar directly on top of an exposed magnet

Shouldn't matter like the law said. I don't think there's any instance where the position matters.

So , guys, I have searched for the answer to this question and cant find an answer. How do I reach Atlantis? I see lots of threads about "I reached it" , but no one explains how

The core of the magnet is super easy to adjust. I adjusted mine around a month ago. Just loosen the large nut under the playfield, then spin the core up or down until its flush with the playfield. Re tighten the nut, and done. I imagine the core would come right out of the top of the playfield if necessary in order to grind it level

Good to know I did know the trough switches should register, but I was unsure about the vari target opto. Mine also shows active. I just never concerned myself with it since it didn't seem to be affecting game play. Where the hell is the vari target opto anyway? I've looked for it, but never seen one

Does anyone here own a Roller Coaster Tycoon? Only asking because I just started a RCT club if any one is interested. I do own a Ripleys, and since they're similar era stern games and both Lawlor designs, I thought I'd ask.

Sweeet! Thanks!!

Looks much better now

My idol definitely is NOT always lit. I'm not sure what wakes him up, but once I hit him a few times, light goes out

Nice!!

Awesome, you'll love it. I think Ripleys is an underappreciated game. Great bang for your money.

I dont think I'll ever sell mine. Once you know the rules and the shots to make to complete goals, its incredibly challenging and fun to play. I've noticed it keeps slowly creeping higher on the top 100 list.

I have a set on mine as well. They look soooooo much better than the plain white squares. Plus they help new players spot them for certain modes.

I have one and I LOVE it! I went with LCD for the reason stated by Thelaw. The LCD version is an actual screen made to look like dots, and you can change the display settings easily to change the look. The LED version is actual LEDs, so there arent any options for changing the appearance

When you had the scoop out, did you check the welds on it? They're notorious for breaking, causing the ball to eject all over the place. I had to have mine re-welded. If the welds are good, you must have something not aligned properly. That's a pretty big shift from left to right.

I can when I get home from work if no one else helps out first

I would be interested in the non photo version. I think the photos make it look a little too busy. I love the simple map version.

I second this opinion

The scoop can be removed rather easily from below the playfield. Once its removed, you will see the welds. They're obvious. Mine were broken also. Make sure whoever welds it is pretty precise and used stainless material. EDIT: You cant see the welds good enough while the scoop is mounted. Just remove it.

It's such a fun and very challenging game once you understand the rules. I think this title will become more and more sought after as people continue to discover it.

Almost certainly the optics under the idol. Mine did the same thing. They're notorious for going out. Cheap fix also. Easy to replace. Bet you money that's your issue.

I'd replace the opto assemblies themselves first. They're most likely the problem. They're just a few dollars each. I actually bought spares to keep on hand. They register false hits when going bad. Hence blocking them stopping the chatter makes sense. Some folks may recommend redoing the solder on the optos, but they're so cheap, I'd just replace them.

Replace the freakin' optos already.... problem solved...

You're welcome, I had a feeling.....

Perhaps his scoop started ejecting balls to the right? I'm just guessing of course....

Just got one! Pristine exemple with pinstadium. A It’s an hidden gem!!!
Really hard but not to deep. The kind of game who makes you a better player for sure!
A Colordmd is a must!!

Very nice!!! You'll love it

Easy cheap fix. Just buy 2 new optics and replace them. They're cheap. I'd buy extras to keep on hand. Shipping will probably cost more than the parts.

This is where I buy mine
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-opto-transceiver.html

Awesome video man! Don't sell it, you'll regret it! You were rockin' those Super jackpots. I have to work on my multi stage upper flipper skills after seeing that.

You can not totally delete the factory high scores. You CAN set the default factory high scores to be very very low. That way you just play a few games, and bingo, your scores are the new high scores

I'm not certain as I do not own any bally/William's games. I would assume so, but that's just a guess

RBION before and after Pinstadium LED light kit install. Man, what a difference!! My Ripleys was so dark before. Check out the lighting down the sides and in the left pop bumper area. Man oh man...

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