Should be joining the club soon!

How is the pin2dmd for Ripleys?

Perfect. Done by VBob and he is one of the best.

Pin2DMD in action:

Classic night of RBION.
Not playing it, don't care, but my cat that isn't into me is finally paying an interest

Ok I'll bat the ball around...4 Super Jackpots toot suite.
Ok we got a game here bitches....this is a fucking all timer going on lets love the dream!!!!
Wah wah....jack shit the rest of the way
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K new Ripleys owner here. Noob at diagnosing and repairs. Ball not kicking up to shooter lane all of sudden. No errors etc. Suggestions? Thx!

Take balls out of trough and check those optos.

It was a loose wire. Fixed.

What is the condition of the magnet post under the shrunken head? If it’s mushroomed it might be a good time to swap it before it causes bigger problems.

Hey there, hoping someone can help me out, My Ripleys Believe it or not is have an issue with the autoplunger coil.
It started when my friend turned the machine on and he says he heard a "poping sound" then the machine wouldnt boot up.
When I looked into it, the power cord at the plug end had a bad connection of the wire, so I put it back in and tightened it.
Low and behold it starts up again, BUT At start up it says autoplunge coil#2 malfunction.
When you start the machine the auto plunger continuously fires, then if you start a game the tilt sensor goes off giving you double danger right away along with the autoplunger going off and many various switches and magnets not working.
I have checked all the fuses and re-seated most of the connections, didint help.
I am not sure how the autoplunger and the coil can be connected but both the problems started at the same time.
I have the manual and am trying to find an answer in there, but figured there are some really pinball savy mechanics on here and maybe someone has ahd this happen before, or an idea of how to fix it.

All advice is appreciated!
Thanks in Advance.

I'm in! Pictures and questions tomorrow. Glad to finally be a part of the club.

Someone else will probably have to weigh in here but you probably fried the transistor associated with the coil. Look at the schematics and and find the transistor. Get a multimeter and test. Google how to test a transistor. You'll have to determine whether the transistor is NPN or PNP.

Brought home last. Had some questions but found the answers in this thread. No doubt I’ll have some others for tou in the future.
6840A201-D0CB-406D-B4B0-9DF01B1776E3 (resized).jpegCF8213C2-59C9-4DF7-B185-3B161AC067BA (resized).jpegE0A8D82F-A64E-4BEE-81BD-585695AD7654 (resized).jpeg

It’s a great machine, enjoy! (Also, The post looks like it may need to be swapped…)

Yes, it's on my to do list. It sticks up enough that a ball will occasionally get stuck above it, if the magnet releases the locked ball in just the right way. That said, it only seems to happen in the first or second game after I turn the machine on. Hmm... In any case, it will be replaced or fixed.

I also need to sort out the lighting as it has the No-Ghosting LEDs installed, but I do not like them. Does RBION have fading effects? I'll probably revert the machine to incandescent bulbs, or I'll add the LEDOCD product (and have to change out all the LEDs because the NG variety doesn't work with LEDOCD, apparently).

I am really enjoying this pin, even though it highlights all of my weaknesses as a player. Time to finally practice the basic skills so I can control the ball well enough to complete the tasks in the allotted time.

RBION has lots of fade effects and the worst ghosting of LEDs I’ve seen. I did the OCD boards for the GI and controlled lighting and standard LEDs… looks great now.

Even with the No Ghosting LEDs it looks bad, IMO. For the short term, I probably need to choose between spending $500 on a ColorDMD or the two LEDOCD boards + a new set of standard LEDs. Maybe ColorDMD and incandescent bulbs for now. Decisions, decisions... Thanks for the feedback.

Incandescents work well in most of this game...tons of tiny inserts.

Also, check the ball guide in the shooter ramp that should send the ball across the playfield (right to left) to pickup and enter the top loop. That shooter lane ball guide can be adjusted a bit (nut underneath) and sometimes when out of adjustment it launches the ball and hits the post next to the loop. When properly adjusted, it should be a clean and smooth path from shooter lane (right to left) to top loop (left to right) in one continuous flow.

That was the first fix I made (the lock nut and washer underneath the PF were missing) through observation, trial and error, and assumption. A great bit of advice for a new owner, all the same. Thanks.

My ball keeps getting hung up on the shrunken head magnet. I have to nudge the machine a few times and then it’ll throw it back. Any Thoughts? Thx!

Easiest thing first: try a fresh ball to rule out the issue just being a magnetized ball.

Cliffy sells a magnet protector ring that might help if it's getting hung up on the edge

Most likely magnetized balls

What they said (magnetized ball). I'm having the same problem, and hoping the new pinballs arrive soon. Took the ball out and a paperclip stuck to it. Also, I had occasional problems with the outhole trough as two balls were sticking together and not moving all the way to the end of the slot and registering.

That said, the top of the magnet in my machine is mushroomed a bit/sits proud of the PF surface, so that + magnetization equals problem. New core going in this weekend, I hope.

By the way, I've only had this game a week and it is great (I don't think that is the honeymoon phase talking). The most enjoyable pinball frustrations I've encountered.

Finished the conversion to incandescents tonight. Much better. Now I can see the fade effects. Easier on the eyes, too.

Only pin I have ever purchased twice. Such a blast!

Not so subtle shill for my youtube channel:

This game is pretty under rated. Rules are deep / difficult enough to keep you busy, but definitely understandable. Its just good goofy fun.

There are a couple of notes in this thread about replacing the magnet post core. Since it's mushroomed, you need to remove it from the TOP of the playfield. It may be a bit more difficult that you think at first depending on how it was assembled. Refer to Pg 84 in the manual, and use a box wrench on the nut (item #4) and then a tool of some type (I used a prybar that fit) that fits snuggly in the slot (item #3) in the top of the post. Make sure it fits tight in the slot or you'll struggle with getting leverage. I had to add some heat to the nut since it had some loctite added on some of the machines and the heat (a micro torch) loosened the material.

Also, if you have a bench grinder, you can resurface the top of the post, and add a 45-degres bevel to the diameter, but for my $15, I just bought a new one and put the old one away (resurfaced) as a spare.

Thanks. Fortunately, I have plenty of tools on hand, including a 1/2 inch flathead socket (post 1196) and others mentioned in magnet removal solutions, so I'm cautiously optimistic. And, like you, I've simply purchased a new core and will "recondition" the old one as a spare. Thanks for the advice. Fingers crossed.

!!! Be careful not to rip the bracket off the playfield if you use the socket alone!!! The bracket is only held to the playfield with 2 or 3 small #8 hex-head 1/2-inch wood screws like everything else, and you may have to put alot of torque on the socket to get the nut off. (I think the nut takes a 1-1/8" socket).

Noted. I will brace the bracket or start with less aggressive methods and work my way up the ladder, if needed. Thanks.

Quick set of questions regarding the installation of a new magnet core beneath the shrunken head: Should the top of the magnet core be higher than the surface of the playing field, or should it be flush with the surface? I'm assuming it is normally installed a tiny bit higher than the PF (the mushrooming effect is evidence of that, right?), but thought I'd check in with those more knowledgeable than I am. Does 1/32 proud of the surface sound about right? Also, would you advise me to bevel the the top edge of the magnet core just a bit, or am I overthinking this (a common occurrence with me)? Finally, is the magnet meant to toss the pinball up and over to the Bigfoot pop bumpers? Mine does not do that; it tosses it up and out of sight, and then the ball descends down the middle of the PF (not SDTM). Thanks.

I'd install it flush, bevel if you like. Ball is supposed to be tossed into the pops every time. You still using the old balls? Change them if yes.

Thanks. I received the new carbon core balls yesterday (from Ball Barron) and that eliminated the ball trough (magnetization) issue. I still have the issue of the ball getting stuck to the head magnet (rarely) when the throw is not strong enough. Also, the new balls don't make it to the pops either. I'm curious to see if simply changing the magnet core will increase the throw and get the ball into the pops. Thanks again for the advice and the info.

It sounds slightly strange, unusual, & bizarre.. but according to this thread the magnet might adjust after some game time ? You could also try giving those optos a clean with some rubbing alcohol on a Q tip. It sounds like they're working fine though if the magnet is grabbing the ball well. I'm just thinking of anything to try. It might work better too once you have it flush with the playfield and a new core

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-rbion-idol-magnet-not-makin-it-its-weak-ideas

I installed mine slightly higher than the pf so that the ball never catches the pf wood on edge.

That was my original thought. Now I have one vote for level and one foot for proud of the surface. Looks like I might have to make up my own mind. Thanks for the info and the opinions, everyone. I appreciate them.

I don't understand how, but perhaps I'll experience this phenomenon first hand. I found another thread that mentioned a setting that could be adjusted as well. Time to go make my first attempt to remove the core. I'm starting by attacking the nut with a breaker bar and a 1 1/8" deep socket. Don't recall why I already have that socket, but it was in the drawer so here we go...

Piece of proverbial cake. Breaker bar and socket, carefully applied, for the win. Now to see if I can screw the core up and out through the top of the PF.

Et viola! Impact driver + 3/8" slotted bit socket, up and out in seconds. Time to decide between flush and just a bit proud.

Wonder if it could increase the power if it senses another opto hit to quick after release. Sounds sort of futuristic though And they don;t use it for Dialed In

Installed new core, turned on the game and started hand feeding the pinball to the magnet. The first four catches failed to produce a throw up and over into the pop bumpers. I began to scoff at the thread Mr. Belvedere points to above. And then the ball started going up and over into the pops. Could it be?

No, it could not be. After four straight throws that barely made it into the pops, the next 15 -20 all failed to achieve the goal. The quest continues. In any case, core replacement took all of about two minutes, most of which was spent hand threading the new core in from above and fine tuning the magnet height. As usual, the right tools come in handy.

Now to track down the thread that mentioned a setting. I should also take a closer look at the assembly overall and check for loose wire connections and the like. Hmmm...

Found it (two excerpts below). Time to investigate in this direction.

Cash_Riprock: “The setting you may be referring to is #33 (coil pulse power) in the Standard and Feature Adjustment menu. It is used to 'adjust' or compensate for low or high line voltage...ball kicks to hard or soft. Setting is usually normal. The settings are: Hard-Normal-Soft. Best maybe to check and see what setting you have. Maybe that will solve the problem. Good luck!”

twominds: “…the likely solution to the head not throwing the ball is a setting. If you had the machine set to home play or "easy," it would have had a couple feature settings that would change with a factory reset. The R-I-P-L-E-Y-S setting in the feature menu (#6 in the Feature adjustments) is likely the problem. If you set it to default, which is "no letters," the ball will not kick back into the bonus lanes because the head has not been activated which happens at the second Ripley letter. So, if you want it to kick backward initially, simply change the number of starting RIPLEY letters to 2 or more and that will make the ball kick backwards. The default setting changes the game dynamic a lot. It makes the player build up the RIPLEY letters to open a lot of features and with the other distracting routes and objectives, you may lose focus of those letters.”

I would repeat that process thru 5 full games just to see if it gets better. Perhaps it takes more than 1 game to correct itself. It honestly felt like mine took a few games to start operating properly after a factory reset.

"It honestly felt like mine took a few games to start operating properly after a factory reset."

Good to know. Now I need to play some pinball rather than returning to work.

Never heard of feature setting 6 effecting magnet throws. Regardless, a few suggestions...

Make sure there's no wax or mylar anywhere near the magnet core. Both absolutely will affect the magnet throw. Novus 2 will remove wax. Make sure pitch is within one or two tenths of 6.5 degrees measured between the flippers. Not over 6.5. If shrunken head optos are original, replace both, idol pair too. Whitestar optos didn't age well. Lastly, make sure you're on the latest code or one back at the most. Early Ripley's code was very buggy. If you're currently running newer code, do a factory reset to clear any settings not factory. Compare your results to video on pinballvideos.com. You'll never get every throw to the pops, but watching video will give you an idea of how yours is doing.

Just checked and pitch between the flippers is 6.80. They may well be it. That should make the backhanded right ramp shot a bit easier as well.Looks to have the latest code (3.20 for CPU), and I did do a factory reset when I brought it home. And thank you for the pinballvideos.com suggestion. That's new to me.

Thanks!

Regarding my question about the magnet core -- level with, or just proud of the PF -- I noticed this:

RBION magnet core (resized).png