Hey Mate I just put the exact Kicker Speakers in my Ripley's but the tech had to rewire the speakers in series! The speakers that came out of Ripley's were 8 ohm speakers and the kickers are 4 ohm speakers. The tech said if we didn't rewire in series and left it in parallel would've been a good way of overloading the sound board and stuffin it up real good!!
Anyway just to let ya know.

The hole for the upper post (above the rollover lanes) has a ledge that the post rubber gets caught up on. Anyone knows a solution for this?

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That looks like the post bracket might be slightly mis-aligned with the playfield hole. The simple fix is usually to slightly loosen the screws on the underside of the playfield that holds the bracket in place, and then visually align the post more centered in the hole, while tightening the screws back down. In most cases it works without any other hassle. In a few cases, you'd need to drill out the bracket holes a hint bigger to allow you more alignment room.

Could someone take a quick photo of their left flipper coil? I need to make sure things are wired properly from this one I just received.

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About to give RBION another chance. Found my old review and I was first. Help me find an alternate translite. I can’t stand the cab decals either but willing to shove cab between 2 games and stare at the new translite.

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Also not an alternate, and actually probably the opposite of what you want as it accentuates the translite, but I've considered getting the interactive backbox lighting mod from Flipper Fidelity. Haven't jumped due to price feeling a bit high to me.

https://flipperfidelity.com/stern-ripleys-believe-it-or-not-enhanced-animated-led-backbox-light-replacement-two-versions-dimmable/

Getting the temple mods might help with the "cheap plastic" feel. Also one I want to get but have a box full of mods for other games I've yet to install

https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-pinball-mods/products/ripleys-temple-mod-both-temples

Great ideas. Probably pursue both mods. thx

Just did the temple mod. It’s very well made

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Installed a new Rottendog power board and when I booted the machine the trough coil started to burn. All connectors are fine — did I receive a lemon board?

Well first why did you need a new board?

Might be the original problem; but Rottendog def could be tyhe issue.

The transistor fried that controlled the left flipper. It’s getting repaired but I grabbed a new board in the meantime.

Rottendog quality has been very spotty last I recall.

So now it boots but the GI goes out and it doesn’t recognise any of the balls in the trough. Trough coil gets hot idling.

Sounds like a shorted driver/transistor. There are a number of troubleshooting threads for power board driver issues, but be careful not to burn out your coils while you are trying to find the problem (simply disconnect any that are overheating until you resolve the issue)

I had some bad luck recently. Bought a mpu/driver board for my Gorgar and went through 3 boards trying to get one that worked. 2/3 boards locked on coils and 1 had a major display issue. Ended up repairing original boards instead and those have been rock solid.

Atlantis in color:

Hey everyone. I picked up the game about 2 months ago and am really enjoying it. A couple weeks ago I noticed neither of the tombstone targets directly above the skill shot were registering. I replaced both targets and still neither registers. Any suggestions on how to fix this or any specific plug/area I should be looking at?

I wanted to improve the jungle/adventurous feel of my Ripley's. Here are the mods I custom made for it. An assortment of palm trees, bushes and grass stuck to polycarbonate pieces that fit over existing plastics. Also added a penguin to the penguin loop and a white alligator (as mentioned in one of the bizar facts) to the left ramp.

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I picked up a RBION last week. I noticed the optics under the shrunken head weren’t registering, so I ordered new ones. I installed them, but it’s still not working. I noticed one option has a greenish light emitting from it, the other nothing.
What’s the likely issue…the PCB under the playfield?

Edit- Figured it out. The options I didn’t replace that was green had a broken wire. See picture. Soldered it back on. All good now.

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I made this jungle themed decal for the speaker panel to extend the theme as well. I have some more, which you can get here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1266-pinball-nerd-decals-/06631-ripley-s-believe-it-or-not-speaker-panel-amp-tombstone-decals

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Left flipper acting electrically twitchy.
I depressed the button and sometimes we go part way up and part way back in wiggle a little.

Could this be a gapping issue?

Inspect the flipper assembly. Could be a number of things. I bet it's mechanical. How's the plunger and coil sleeve look? Coil stop? Loose wire on the coil lugs? Those are most likely the culprits.

Joined the club today. It’s playing well and settling in with the other Lawlor games.

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I can’t seem to find the ripley’s ramps for sale anywhere. Anyone know where I could order some?

I know JodyG talked about making some in the future, saw a comment from him on his thread sometime last year regarding it.

What is the correct flipper switch for the right side?
I ordered one from Marco using the part number in the manual, however it does not match or work the same way.
Ive attached some photos

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Thanks for this thread......I would have never, in a 100 years, figured I'd have to lift the playfield out of the cabinet to get the right ramp off.

The manual shows the same part number on Page 63 in the manual, parts:

23A Flipper Switch - Self-Cleaning (Left. Flipper) 1 180-5160-00
23B Flipper Sw. (Rt & Upper) - X2 Stack 180-5164-00

But your part looks wrong....

Ordered the temple set from back alley creations. Comes with a bolt labeled 'lrg temple roof' but I have no hole in the roof.

Am I supposed to just balance this thing on that post or am I expected to drill a hole for said bolt?

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Mine had the hole pre-drilled.
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Bit of a public service announcement. There were no temple mod instructions included in the packaging, on the back alley creations site, or anywhere else. I assumed that the new large temple would mount in the same location as the old temple. However, when using the original mount location, the temple sits slightly too high, causing the temple to hook onto the furring strip underneath of the glass channel when putting the playfield back into position. I didn't notice this until it was too late, and, while attempting to slide my playfield back, hooked the temple, which caused my ramp to get cracked where the post mounts (it doesn't help that Stern pfs require a good bit of force to get back into position).
Afterwards, I realized the only correct way to install this mod is to cut the zip tie nearest to the head-side mounting hole. Pretty disappointed with the product (even though it looks nice) as the issue would've been easily avoidable if there was even the most basic documentation/warning included. (To me, at least, it wasn't obvious off hand that I was supposed to cut the zip tie in order to relocate the mount point.) And, as far as I can tell, this ramp is no longer available either which is a major bummer as I'm pretty anal retentive, especially if something happened to the game while I was working on it.

I spoke with Matt and he apologized, but I wanted to share this so that others don't end up foo bar'ing their ramp like I did.

In the end, using the tall hex post to secure the temple isn't a good solution anyway, as the temple is fairly heavy, causing it to flop around almost like it's on a spring. I'm working on a 3d printed part to create an arm that attaches the temple to the rear of the back board to avoid using the ramp to support the temple altogether.

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Any Tips for dialing in the eject for the scoop?
Ive tried to bend the arch but still get straight down the middle 80% of the time

If you havnt checked already, have a look at the welds on the hood of the scoop. They're known to break causing poor/sporadic eject behavior. Mine was broken. I believe you can still find replacements, or do what I did. Take it to a weld shop that can weld stainless, and have them fix it. It's not that hard to remove the scoop if I recall correctly.

I tried to bend the arch too, but it also didn't work for me. I wound up loosening the screws holding the whole scoop assembly to the bottom of the playfield, turning the assembly towards the left flipper a little, then tightening up the screws again. I now get perfect kick-outs to the left flipper every time. It was a while ago, but I don't think I needed to create a new screw hole - there was enough play with the existing holes. You may need to create new holes a few millimetres away from the existing ones if you don't have enough wiggle room on your machine.

Thank You

ordered

Thanx!!

Just joined the club!

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Three items to check soon:
1. The magnetic post under shrunken head. Usually mushrooms and gets more difficult to replace over time. If yours has mushroomed, a number of comments here on easiest way to fix it.
2. The scoop welds. Hard to detect but makes eject inconsistent. I think Mantis still has replacements if needed.
3. The adjustment of the shooter lane ball guide to assure it hits the left orbit with a solid plunge. The shooter lane ball guide may need adjustment inward if the ball doesnt find the left orbit and there is a nut under the playfield that allows the guide to be adjusted.

And if want to splurge… ColorDMD for $500 or Pin2dmd for $250.

0: Rip that horrible colored GI out of there. Looks at the return lanes...blue on 1 side red on the other

Thanks for all the tips guys! I’ve got a colordmd that I’ll throw in today. You’re right on the leds. I’ll need to grab some ocd boards for it as well. It’s in overall nice condition with minor flipper button wear. Happy to add this one!

The glare from the backglass is pretty bad on this one. I didn’t see anywhere in the settings where I can bring the brightness down. Short of using voodoo glass or a glare guard (which doesn’t remove all of the glare), anyone have some easy solution?

Now that you mention it is pretty bad on this game. I remember wrapping the light tube in computer paper and covering the front half in a layer of tin tape to dim it down a bit on the game I owned years ago. My current one I just removed the starter and have the back box light off. Maybe I’ll give the old method a try…

yeah, I noticed the bright bulb while installing the colorDMD. I'll do something about that. thanks for the ideas!