(Topic ID: 90719)

Club RBION: The Strange, the unusual, the bizarre!

By chadderack

8 years ago


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  • 1,225 posts
  • 169 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by Blu
  • Topic is favorited by 69 Pinsiders

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There are 1,225 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 25.
#1101 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

You might want to consider going keyless. I like keyless as it really simplifies access. Just an option. Pinball Life carries them as do other suppliers. The size seems to be standard from late 80s pins to the present.
[quoted image]

I've been doing these on all my games. The downside, when I take them to shows I have to swap in real locks, but they save a lot of time at home.

#1102 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

I've been doing these on all my games. The downside, when I take them to shows I have to swap in real locks, but they save a lot of time at home.

That would be an issue, at shows. Although depending on how many you have to convert, it might not be too bad. I’ve swapped so many locks for keyless it probably takes me a couple minutes to change one. The exception is when the locks aren’t the same length, and the door rattles when closed and latched. Then I have to use a different latch, or bend it slightly to close tightly.

#1103 1 year ago

Good idea this keyless version. Mine won't leave the house so it's a good plan... Let's see who sells it in Europe...

#1104 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

That would be an issue, at shows. Although depending on how many you have to convert, it might not be too bad. I’ve swapped so many locks for keyless it probably takes me a couple minutes to change one. The exception is when the locks aren’t the same length, and the door rattles when closed and latched. Then I have to use a different latch, or bend it slightly to close tightly.

Yeah, it's a couple minute swap. I do bring usually 6-10 games to the Northwest show and smaller amounts to Emerald City Comicon for the classic arcade, swapping the locks to keyed is just part of the game prep. For the 25 times during the rest of the year when I want to change the volume, a setting, or get into the game, I really like having the quick keyless action. I do it on all my arcade games too.

#1105 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Yeah, it's a couple minute swap. I do bring usually 6-10 games to the Northwest show and smaller amounts to Emerald City Comicon for the classic arcade, swapping the locks to keyed is just part of the game prep. For the 25 times during the rest of the year when I want to change the volume, a setting, or get into the game, I really like having the quick keyless action. I do it on all my arcade games too.

Very cool you bring your pins to shows.

#1106 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

Is there not a way to reset grand champ? Ours is always on 50 million,

Quoted from TheLaw:

Thats the programmed GC so I dont think there's anyway to lower it

I stand corrected, it can be changed in standard adjustments #23. Never even thought this was an option as it's a disgrace to change it

#1107 1 year ago

Thanks to Markharris2000 I am now a club member. I've had the game on stream a few times now, and trying to reach Atlantis is going to keep me busy for a while, for sure!

#1108 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Very cool you bring your pins to shows.

I help put on the NW Show and we have a huge collector community that all brings their games, we usually have like 400-500 games all on freeplay the whole weekend. And then we do the classic arcade at Emerald City Comicon, Norewescon, and in the past PAX. All to promote the hobby and have people play our games. It's loads of fun, lots of work, and makes me keep a bunch of my games in great working order. And we do repair parties, hangouts, etc. Everyone that's a collector here are all networked, help each other, and help put on these events. Or at least before the pandemic, it's going to take a little work to gear up again. But I highly recommend getting involved with your most local show and networking with other collectors, it's a great part of the hobby!

1 month later
#1109 11 months ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

That's what I'm betting on!

Did 14 prove to be the right piece? Mine are broken and need replaced.

#1110 11 months ago

Yes 14 was correct, but they work with 1/4" spacers, not 1/2.

#1111 11 months ago

Excited to join the RBION club. Got a nice model that just needed a few quick fixes. Otherwise in great shape.

1 week later
#1112 11 months ago
Quoted from Thegeekyhusband:

Excited to join the RBION club. Got a nice model that just needed a few quick fixes. Otherwise in great shape.

Picture or it isn't true

#1113 11 months ago

Cleaning out my workbench yesterday and was reminded I purchased a complete set of plastics for RBION a year or so ago, and then sold the machine! One or two may have been used, but I have a bunch. If anyone is looking for a specific piece, PM me and we can work something out at my cost.

#1114 11 months ago

Anyone put a cliffy on the scoop and get constant rejects? Mine is so bad I'm debating taking it back off. Also - anyone know of a cliffy for the vari target so that don't get all chewed up?

#1115 11 months ago
Quoted from robbie:

Picture or it isn't true

Haven’t figured out how to blow it up yet . But it is funny and fun.

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#1116 11 months ago

Bought this game NIB on release but sadly sold. Just picked up a replacement with oddly only a hundred ish plays. Happy to have it back home. Ordered a LEDOCD board first thing as LED's kill the lighting. Fun shooter for sure.

#1117 11 months ago
Quoted from Thegeekyhusband:

Haven’t figured out how to blow it up yet . But it is funny and fun.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice pictures of a nice machine, have fun with it

#1118 11 months ago
Quoted from tommyp:

Anyone put a cliffy on the scoop and get constant rejects? Mine is so bad I'm debating taking it back off. Also - anyone know of a cliffy for the vari target so that don't get all chewed up?

I put a cliffy on mine with no issues whatsoever. Maybe check to make sure everything was reassembled correctly after install

2 weeks later
#1119 10 months ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Thanks!
So I'm going with 2 of those and 2 1/2 inch hex spacers with 6-32 thread on top for the lower pieces.[quoted image]

These posts are out of stock at Marco. Does anyone know where I can get them?

#1120 10 months ago

RBION owners, hoping someone can please answer this: In normal gameplay, should the idol opto always be lit? May seem like a silly question but hoping someone can answer. Thanks!

#1121 10 months ago

No you gotta light that bad boy, ramp shot I think

#1122 10 months ago

Can anyone post a picture of the playfield underside showing the wiring of the idol opto board please?

3 weeks later
#1123 10 months ago

Saw this tribal art painted on bark at a consignment shop and needed it for a topper for my new RBION pickup. (Color DMD arrives tomorrow)

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#1124 10 months ago

Just installed a backbox board with LED strips. Really brings out the color and balances the light compared to the FL tube. Also added a flasher strip behind the shrunken head that is tied into the shrunken head on the PF.

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1 week later
#1125 9 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Cleaning out my workbench yesterday and was reminded I purchased a complete set of plastics for RBION a year or so ago, and then sold the machine! One or two may have been used, but I have a bunch. If anyone is looking for a specific piece, PM me and we can work something out at my cost.

PMed you.

1 month later
#1126 8 months ago

Wondering if someone can sanity check me here. Got my RBION last week and finally got a chance to put the updated 3.20 ROM in. I've noticed that sometimes the mode start shot needs to be relit by shooting the right ramp, but sometimes the next mode seems to be lit automatically once I finish a mode. Am I crazy here or should you always need to hit the right ramp to relight the mode start at the vari target scoop?

#1127 8 months ago

So I've got a bit of a mystery with my GI circuit, figured I'd ask here to hopefully save a bit of diagnostic time. As soon as I push a flipper button, most of the GIs go out and F27 is blown.

I've seen the PinWiki info about C32 leaking to ground, except opening the coin door doesn't bring the GI circuit back. Replacing F27 gets the GIs working again until I push the flipper button, although the game works fine outside of the GI failure. Has anyone seen this behavior already? Figured I would ask before I start chasing the feed going into F27.

#1128 8 months ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

So I've got a bit of a mystery with my GI circuit, figured I'd ask here to hopefully save a bit of diagnostic time. As soon as I push a flipper button, most of the GIs go out and F27 is blown.
I've seen the PinWiki info about C32 leaking to ground, except opening the coin door doesn't bring the GI circuit back. Replacing F27 gets the GIs working again until I push the flipper button, although the game works fine outside of the GI failure. Has anyone seen this behavior already? Figured I would ask before I start chasing the feed going into F27.

Sounds like a short to me, likely under the playfield, where a wire from the flipper coil is somehow touching a wire from the GI. It's a tedious investigation, but if you follow everything associated with the flipper coils, you'll likely find a problem with a GI socket touching something it shouldn't be touching that is part of the flipper wiring, etc.

#1129 8 months ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Wondering if someone can sanity check me here. Got my RBION last week and finally got a chance to put the updated 3.20 ROM in. I've noticed that sometimes the mode start shot needs to be relit by shooting the right ramp, but sometimes the next mode seems to be lit automatically once I finish a mode. Am I crazy here or should you always need to hit the right ramp to relight the mode start at the vari target scoop?

Orange ya glad you picked the game up?

1 week later
#1130 8 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Sounds like a short to me, likely under the playfield, where a wire from the flipper coil is somehow touching a wire from the GI. It's a tedious investigation, but if you follow everything associated with the flipper coils, you'll likely find a problem with a GI socket touching something it shouldn't be touching that is part of the flipper wiring, etc.

I got it sorted out, and you weren't too far off. After I lifted the PF to check the wiring, the F27 fuse started to blow right away when I turned the machine on. I ended up pulling every violet GI circuit bulb and checking the sockets. A small bead of solder got into the bulb socket under the right sling. The right side flipper apparently had enough vibration force to cause the short that killed the fuse. I removed the solder bead, hit all of the sockets with a shot of compressed air, replaced the LED for good measure, and all was well after that.

#1131 8 months ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

I got it sorted out, and you weren't too far off. After I lifted the PF to check the wiring, the F27 fuse started to blow right away when I turned the machine on. I ended up pulling every violet GI circuit bulb and checking the sockets. A small bead of solder got into the bulb socket under the right sling. The right side flipper apparently had enough vibration force to cause the short that killed the fuse. I removed the solder bead, hit all of the sockets with a shot of compressed air, replaced the LED for good measure, and all was well after that.

Excellent troubleshooting. Those pf issues can be pretty difficult to track down.

#1132 8 months ago

I am looking for a way to remove the head to change out some bulbs. Is there a trick that I'm missing?

#1133 8 months ago

Found it.

The Shrunken Head is only secured over the
Mounting Bracket by a fold inside the neck.
To remove, pull the front of the neck forward
and off of the front tab (A). Head can now be
easily removed. To put back on, hook the back
of the next at the rear tabs then pull the front of
the neck over the front tab.

#1134 8 months ago

Reminder... if anyone needs a brand new original shrunken head for their machine, I have one I'd sell for what I paid for it a couple of years ago, $65. One hard piece to find... PM me...

-1
#1135 8 months ago

This game is crying out for a Pinsound mix over the original as it has all the shots. But I just can’t think what Music I would choose that suits the theme..

2 weeks later
#1136 7 months ago

My wife bought me an LED kit for my machine for Xmas. I just finished installing and, to be honest, I feel like I might have a seizure (not really) if I play it too much. It's so bright and flash-heavy that it's sometimes difficult to even see the ball. Anybody else had this problem?

#1137 7 months ago
Quoted from Bogwoppa:

My wife bought me an LED kit for my machine for Xmas. I just finished installing and, to be honest, I feel like I might have a seizure (not really) if I play it too much. It's so bright and flash-heavy that it's sometimes difficult to even see the ball. Anybody else had this problem?

I would recommend an LED OCD board for it. It made a huge difference for me.

#1138 7 months ago
Quoted from Bogwoppa:

My wife bought me an LED kit for my machine for Xmas. I just finished installing and, to be honest, I feel like I might have a seizure (not really) if I play it too much. It's so bright and flash-heavy that it's sometimes difficult to even see the ball. Anybody else had this problem?

If the kit came with a bunch of colored LEDs for the general illumination bulbs, I'd secretly replace them with either warm white or cool white LEDs. Many of the prepackaged kits come with colored g.i. bulbs that make playfield lighting pretty bad. Color matched under the inserts, perfect. But most ppl stick with white in the g.i.

#1139 7 months ago

Kits suck. Colored GI is horrible and LED Flashers above PF are not worth it and can be overly bright

#1140 7 months ago

There's no colored bulbs in the GI. It's primarily the whites that are so blinding, particularly during multi-ball. I think I'll switch out the flashers above the playfield as suggested. Also going to investigate the LED OCD. Thanks all

#1141 7 months ago

LED OCD is badly needed on this whitestar pin. I had to remove the cheap LED’s the previous owner fitted back to Incandescents as the strobing on the inserts was really bad. Have LED’s on the GI only. Flashers are incandescent too. Next thing to get is a LED OCD. Unfortunately they don’t import to the UK. However Stumbler is making a similar board..

#1142 7 months ago
Quoted from Kenz:

LED OCD is badly needed on this whitestar pin. I had to remove the cheap LED’s the previous owner fitted back to Incandescents as the strobing on the inserts was really bad. Have LED’s on the GI only. Flashers are incandescent too. Next thing to get is a LED OCD. Unfortunately they don’t import to the UK. However Stumbler is making a similar board..

Well, I'm shit out of luck on getting an LED OCD here in the US aslo. Not predicted to be back in stock until April. :/

#1143 7 months ago
Quoted from Bogwoppa:Well, I'm shit out of luck on getting an LED OCD here in the US aslo. Not predicted to be back in stock until April. :/

Mine doesn't have an LED ocd board and it looks great. I just use Comet non ghosting bulbs everywhere and have no issues. Frosted lens in both GI and controlled lighting. I'm doing this in multiple machines. EATPM, BSD, FT, and RBION. No need for an OCD board. No Good Gophers is up next.

#1144 7 months ago
Quoted from Bogwoppa:

Well, I'm shit out of luck on getting an LED OCD here in the US aslo. Not predicted to be back in stock until April. :/

The GIzmo for your GI is still in stock…. It’s a start.

I opted to go with the GIzmo and LED OCD on my RBION to preserve more of the fade effect than what I heard the Comet non-ghosting bulbs would achieve. I’d be interested in seeing the fade effect with non-ghosting bulbs, as I didn’t have any to test and just took the sure path.

#1145 7 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Mine doesn't have an LED ocd board and it looks great. I just use Comet non ghosting bulbs everywhere and have no issues. Frosted lens in both GI and controlled lighting. I'm doing this in multiple machines. EATPM, BSD, FT, and RBION. No need for an OCD board. No Good Gophers is up next.

Watch the RBION attract mode, it's a terrible flickering mess with LEDs. Non-ghosting LEDs prevent dim insert glowing when inserts should be off, although they don't do anything for brightness transition problems.

#1146 7 months ago

Anyone have a mint one for sale

#1147 7 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Mine doesn't have an LED ocd board and it looks great. I just use Comet non ghosting bulbs everywhere and have no issues. Frosted lens in both GI and controlled lighting. I'm doing this in multiple machines. EATPM, BSD, FT, and RBION. No need for an OCD board. No Good Gophers is up next.

LED OCD makes a huge difference on this game (as well as most others) The sudden on/off effect without it just looks wrong, they were designed to pulse.

Also I recommend good old fashioned ghosting LEDs with the LED OCD board as you get more range in the lighting effects.

#1148 7 months ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

LED OCD makes a huge difference on this game (as well as most others) The sudden on/off effect without it just looks wrong, they were designed to pulse.
Also I recommend good old fashioned ghosting LEDs with the LED OCD board as you get more range in the lighting effects.

So, what you're saying is, add leds, then add a board to make the leds not look like leds?

Just ribbing you a bit. I totally understand the benefit of leds over incandescents. And, I understand how some people prefer the gradual fade of original bulbs. However, my leds look great to me, and I've never once had 1 person look at any of my games and suggest that I need a control board. So, to each their own I guess.

#1149 7 months ago

LED OCD is good people, but severely overrated. So many smaller inserts on RBION adding LEDs is almost overkill.

#1150 7 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

So, what you're saying is, add leds, then add a board to make the leds not look like leds?
Just ribbing you a bit. I totally understand the benefit of leds over incandescents. And, I understand how some people prefer the gradual fade of original bulbs. However, my leds look great to me, and I've never once had 1 person look at any of my games and suggest that I need a control board. So, to each their own I guess.

It's not exclusive to gradual fade, it's anytime the inserts should have a brightness between fully on and fully off. There is no brightness spectrum without the OCD board; LEDs will be off, flicker at full brightness, or solid on at full brightness. Here's a bulb comparison showing cropped from my prior RBION streams of Incandescent vs. LED vs. LED+OCD:

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