(Topic ID: 90719)

Club RBION: The Strange, the unusual, the bizarre!

By chadderack

8 years ago


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  • 1,252 posts
  • 172 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by PlanetExpress
  • Topic is favorited by 71 Pinsiders

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There are 1,252 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 26.
#1051 1 year ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

How am I supposed to remove the right ramp? The screws for the wireform is under the ramp.
[quoted image]

I first removed the surrounding plastic.

20210127_134047 (resized).jpg20210127_134229 (resized).jpg
#1052 1 year ago
Quoted from robbie:

I first removed the surrounding plastic.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I did that but there’s one screw of the wireform that sits right under the ramp. How did you get to it?

C17302C9-227F-4860-9775-D7A3DEB9D8CF (resized).jpeg
#1053 1 year ago

I did first lift the back of the playfield as you can see at the picture.
Then You have to loosen all the screws that hold the ramp, including everything on the front side of the ramp. Don't forget the connectors on the underside of the playfield. Than you can rotate/rollover/cant/tip... the ramp more easily in the correct way you want.

20210127_140638 (resized).jpg20210127_140358 (resized).jpg20210219_125732 (resized).jpg
#1054 1 year ago
Quoted from robbie:

I did first lift the back of the playfield as you can see at the picture.
Then You have to loosen all the screws that hold the ramp, including everything on the front side of the ramp. Don't forget the connectors on the underside of the playfield. Than you can rotate/rollover/cant/tip... the ramp more easily in the correct way you want.

Thanks. Lifting the back of the playfield should do it. This ramp was clearly installed with the playfield out of the cabinet.

#1055 1 year ago
Quoted from Yoko2una:

Ok, got to it last night. Here are some pics. The wire in the middle as it rolls out, this is what I believe is causing the ball to go either properly against the right orbit RHS rail straight onto the flipper, or left which won't allow for a good 3rd flipper shot.

Thought about this. Also thought about the wire that hangs vertical in the back, which I guess could also be kicking the ball to either side. However, if we start bending one way to open up the space to another, we may not guarantee that the ball ever gets back to the rail. Bending the wire, closing the LHS gap, opening the RHS gap TOO much may not place the ball against the RHS rail guard anymore, and then it may do something weird (bounce, dribble...etc) on its way down.
I can't believe this occurrence was intentional in the design of the wireform. It's just such an amazing design overall, I can't imagine a wireform that sets up a cross shot would be intentionally designed to sometimes give a piss poor feed. I'm also shocked that it sounds as if no one has made some sort of mod to address this.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I found this blast from many years past while searching for a solution for this wireform. Mine does the same thing where most often the ball drops out to the left instead of to the right. I'd like to "encourage" it to drop right in order to have the ball lead smoothly to the upper flipper. Has anyone come up with a viable solution for this? Wanted to ask before I go bending the wire at the bottom and making matters worse Lol. I can snag a photo of mine next time I'm with the machine if you want to see what mine looks like.

#1056 1 year ago

Just putting this authentic, new/unused NOS RBION Shrunken Head on the classified ads today. $90 + shipping in USA. PM me if interested.

RBION-Shrunken-Head (resized).jpg

#1057 1 year ago

I'll see your shrunken head and raise you 1. But mine aren't for sale.

IMG_4868 (resized).JPG

Good for a topper

#1058 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

I'll see your shrunken head and raise you 1. But mine aren't for sale.
[quoted image]
Good for a topper

"Shrunken heads. I LOVE collecting these..."

#1059 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

I'll see your shrunken head and raise you 1. But mine aren't for sale.
[quoted image]
Good for a topper

One more and they can start a band!

2 weeks later
#1060 1 year ago

Hey guys, I just got Ripley’s and am loving how much it has to offer.

I’m curious who knows: I have a switch that must be activated because I keep getting phantom points. What switch causes the Head to say something about a slot machine?

#1061 1 year ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Hey guys, I just got Ripley’s and am loving how much it has to offer.
I’m curious who knows: I have a switch that must be activated because I keep getting phantom points. What switch causes the Head to say something about a slot machine?

It might be the Super Jackpot Opto (sw18). I would not only clean the optos but I would check the opto connection to the opto board under the playfield. I had the Idol opto doing something similar and unplugging and reseating the opto connection is what cleared it up for me. Actually I'd check all the connections on that opto board while you are there.

#1062 1 year ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Hey guys, I just got Ripley’s and am loving how much it has to offer.
I’m curious who knows: I have a switch that must be activated because I keep getting phantom points. What switch causes the Head to say something about a slot machine?

Quoted from thatdangguy:

It might be the Super Jackpot Opto (sw18). I would not only clean the optos but I would check the opto connection to the opto board under the playfield. I had the Idol opto doing something similar and unplugging and reseating the opto connection is what cleared it up for me. Actually I'd check all the connections on that opto board while you are there.

Both the head and the super jackpot lane have a set of optics that are famous for going bad. I've replaced both sets on my machine. The idol also has a set which I've not replaced. The good news is they're cheap and fairly easy to swap out. Most likely, that's your issue. You could also check the little optic control board under the playfield and re seat the connectors, but, I bet you need new optics.

#1063 1 year ago

Thanks for the input, guys. Those connections are very loose on the bottom, so I’m assuming that’s the origin of the problem. I’ll play around with it and see what comes of it.

#1064 1 year ago

Does anyone know which posts and hex spacers make up the entry to the Vari-Target? My machine is remote and I can't measure them. I can't find them referenced directly in the manual, it has a page of the parts, but doesn't indicate which are which.

Both of mine are broken and they need replaced. Looks like the threaded portion broke just above the bottom post.

#1065 1 year ago

Looks like half inch hex

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#1066 1 year ago

Thanks!

So I'm going with 2 of those and 2 1/2 inch hex spacers with 6-32 thread on top for the lower pieces.

ripley standups.pdf
#1067 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Thanks!
So I'm going with 2 of those and 2 1/2 inch hex spacers with 6-32 thread on top for the lower pieces.[quoted image]

Looks like the post itself is part #14 to me...

#1069 1 year ago

Hey guys, away from the game but need to solve an issue.

Will someone snap a shot of the area behind the vari target for me? Have an issue where something wasn't put back together correctly as the ball likes to find its way into the target area from behind and getting stuck. Appreciate it.

#1070 1 year ago

Anyone with a decent pinsound mix for this pin?

#1071 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Hey guys, away from the game but need to solve an issue.
Will someone snap a shot of the area behind the vari target for me? Have an issue where something wasn't put back together correctly as the ball likes to find its way into the target area from behind and getting stuck. Appreciate it.

Anything possibly to do with this tech bulletin?
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb149.pdf

#1072 1 year ago

Marco sells the upgrade kit from Stern if your machine is missing the 'new and improved' guide. It's like $6 and is just a tiny piece of stainless steel that fixes that gap.

#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Hey guys, away from the game but need to solve an issue.
Will someone snap a shot of the area behind the vari target for me? Have an issue where something wasn't put back together correctly as the ball likes to find its way into the target area from behind and getting stuck. Appreciate it.

Do you mean this area?

20210618_112633 (resized).jpg
#1074 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Hey guys, away from the game but need to solve an issue.
Will someone snap a shot of the area behind the vari target for me? Have an issue where something wasn't put back together correctly as the ball likes to find its way into the target area from behind and getting stuck. Appreciate it.

In addition to robbie response, this service bulletin about stuck balls in that area may be useful.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb149.pdf

#1075 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Hey guys, away from the game but need to solve an issue.
Will someone snap a shot of the area behind the vari target for me? Have an issue where something wasn't put back together correctly as the ball likes to find its way into the target area from behind and getting stuck. Appreciate it.

You can buy the 'fix' mentioned in the service bulletin here:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=535-9468-00

#1076 1 year ago

Is there not a way to reset grand champ? Ours is always on 50 million,

#1077 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

Is there not a way to reset grand champ? Ours is always on 50 million,

Play Better

#1078 1 year ago

We have that game in my friends collection for years , play it every weekend, but just can't put up scores on it, my best is maybe 35 million.

#1079 1 year ago

Thats the programmed GC so I dont think there's anyway to lower it

1 week later
#1080 1 year ago

Forgot to press send last week apparently, but, thanks so much for the link. Got it fixed right up.

#1081 1 year ago

A rollerskating penguin...how amazing!

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-1
#1082 1 year ago

Has anyone covered their vari-target with rubber or something else so it isn't metal clanging metal? I feel like it is probably scratching up my balls sooner than they need to and if I take my game to a show where it gets alot of plays, I'd like to make that target look cooler and do less ball damage.

#1083 1 year ago

Almost have my Ripley's project back to a full working game. My remaining open switches are 23 & 24, the idol and the shrunken head optos. Testing them with a ball they stay open. I'm guessing both sets of optos aren't dead, if so, any ideas of where my problem could be? This is my first Stern, the rest of my games are B/W DMDs, so the Stern test menu is a little foreign to me.

#1084 1 year ago

Is there anyone in the US that sells a similar type of speaker artwork for Ripley's as this?
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-dmdskins-speaker-panel-overlay/

It looks great, but the shipping is cost prohibitive from the UK.

#1085 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Has anyone covered their vari-target with rubber or something else so it isn't metal clanging metal? I feel like it is probably scratching up my balls sooner than they need to and if I take my game to a show where it gets alot of plays, I'd like to make that target look cooler and do less ball damage.

Please stop. Vari-targets have been part of pinball for like 60+ years; you'll be OK

Quoted from nwpinball:

My remaining open switches are 23 & 24, the idol and the shrunken head optos.

Do the optos work/activate in test mode? Did you clean them?

#1086 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Has anyone covered their vari-target with rubber or something else so it isn't metal clanging metal? I feel like it is probably scratching up my balls sooner than they need to and if I take my game to a show where it gets alot of plays, I'd like to make that target look cooler and do less ball damage.

I put a yellow target decal from Earthshaker on my vari-target. Stuck on and then trimmed with an exacto knife.

936F8313-3BED-4B78-BAA0-3CABAFE61D73 (resized).jpeg
#1087 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

My remaining open switches are 23 & 24, the idol and the shrunken head optos. Testing them with a ball they stay open.

Optical switches show normally closed (square filled in) on the display (nothing blocking the optos), micro switches show normally open.

Follow the wires from each of the opto pairs under the playfield to the small opto boards they connect to. Shrunken head opto board may be on the back panel, can't remember. Should be at least one red opto lit on each board. If no lit leds, power off, reseat all connectors, then power up and see if the leds come on.

Those old Whitestar optos don't age well and quickly become susceptible to phantom closures due to nearby flashers. Replacement optos are cheap and don't require any soldering. Idol and shrunken head are most susceptible to phantom closures, but do the mini ramp optos too. They're probably original.

#1088 1 year ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Optical switches show normally closed (square filled in) on the display (nothing blocking the optos), micro switches show normally open.
Follow the wires from each of the opto pairs under the playfield to the small opto boards they connect to. Shrunken head opto board may be on the back panel, can't remember. Should be at least one red opto lit on each board. If no lit leds, power off, reseat all connectors, then power up and see if the leds come on.
Those old Whitestar optos don't age well and quickly become susceptible to phantom closures due to nearby flashers. Replacement optos are cheap and don't require any soldering. Idol and shrunken head are most susceptible to phantom closures, but do the mini ramp optos too. They're probably original.

Thanks! I found one of the opto plugs on my idol board was flipped from when I reconnected it after my teardown and cleaning. And for the shrunken head I replaced both the optos. Both now work great!

#1089 1 year ago

I think my final remaining problem is the flasher in the shrunken head doesn't come on ever and in flash test none of the flashers blink, even though the rest seem to work fine during gameplay. It's weird.

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

I think my final remaining problem is the flasher in the shrunken head doesn't come on ever and in flash test none of the flashers blink, even though the rest seem to work fine during gameplay. It's weird.

High voltage disabled by the coin door switch?

#1091 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

High voltage disabled by the coin door switch?

Uhhhh.... yes! Flashers all work in test mode with the coin door switch manually held, save for the one in the shrunken head. Figuring out that one light should be fairly easy. Thanks!

#1092 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Thanks! I found one of the opto plugs on my idol board was flipped from when I reconnected it after my teardown and cleaning. And for the shrunken head I replaced both the optos. Both now work great!

Nice work. Listen for idol noises while playing when the ball isn't near the idol. That will be the sign that those need replacing. Even with incandescent flashers, those lower two white flashers blast across the playfield wreaking havoc with old opto switches (and the player).

#1093 1 year ago
Quoted from Stebel:

I put a yellow target decal from Earthshaker on my vari-target. Stuck on and then trimmed with an exacto knife. [quoted image]

Clever! I might try something like that. You might want to consider some standup target supports for your tombstone targets. Some tend to lean. There are different versions. Pinball Life has these...

C3768438-CF24-4485-93FF-87500F088D62 (resized).png
#1094 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Clever! I might try something like that. You might want to consider some standup target supports for your tombstone targets. Some tend to lean. There are different versions. Pinball Life has these...
[quoted image]

I swapped all mine and they work perfect!!!! Highly recommend these...

#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Is there anyone in the US that sells a similar type of speaker artwork for Ripley's as this?
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-dmdskins-speaker-panel-overlay/
It looks great, but the shipping is cost prohibitive from the UK.

I'm considering making a similar speaker panel decal for RBION. Cost would likely be $60USD, including shipping to anywhere in North America. Is anyone else interested?

#1096 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

I'm considering making a similar speaker panel decal for RBION. Cost would likely be $60USD, including shipping to anywhere in North America. Is anyone else interested?

I'd definitely be interested!

#1097 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

I'm considering making a similar speaker panel decal for RBION. Cost would likely be $60USD, including shipping to anywhere in North America. Is anyone else interested?

Put me on the interest list. Would want to see the artwork of course, but sounds like a nice addition to the pin.

#1098 1 year ago

I am in!

#1099 1 year ago

Just got my RBION in yesterday. it's a HUO and in top condition.
Only need to change the coin door lock. What's the part number or what size should I get ?
Is it always 7/8" like on a an older Williams ?

#1100 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Just got my RBION in yesterday. it's a HUO and in top condition.
Only need to change the coin door lock. What's the part number or what size should I get ?
Is it always 7/8" like on a an older Williams ?

You might want to consider going keyless. I like keyless as it really simplifies access. Just an option. Pinball Life carries them as do other suppliers. The size seems to be standard from late 80s pins to the present.

BF1A9274-EFF6-4732-9E7D-8BCD8888C30A (resized).jpeg
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