Ripley's Believe It or Not!
Stern, 2004Quoted from Liakos:Can someone help me?..
My slings aren't working..
They give points but dont fire..
I checked fuses, I checked underneath to make sure nothing is disconnected regarding wires etc..
I'm not to tech savvy... am I missing something?.
I sincerely appreciate any advice
Check the plunger link for the kicker arm underneath the playfield to see if it broke.
"A roller-skating penguin, how amazing..."
Anyone know of a plastic penguin with ice or preferably roller skates that one can buy which is the right size to put on the playfield? The best I've found is a porcelain one which I imagine is not a good idea. I do see plenty of penguin toys online but without the roller/ice skates it's just not right! 
New to Ripley's club and entered back into pinball collecting. Sold all my arcade and pinball machines about 5 years ago to put a nice down payment on a nice house. This Ripley has modded interactive translite LEDs, Color DMD, idol toy, shaker motor, and full led lights. Currently having problems with head optos and may need replaced but other then that, I think I have it where I want it. So glad to be back.
Ripley Pin (resized).jpgQuoted from dantebean:New to Ripley's club and entered back into pinball collecting. Sold all my arcade and pinball machines about 5 years ago to put a nice down payment on a nice house. This Ripley has modded interactive translite LEDs, Color DMD, idol toy, shaker motor, and full led lights. Currently having problems with head optos and may need replaced but other then that, I think I have it where I want it. So glad to be back.
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I am relatively new to RBION club as well, but now have had my hands inside the machine for awhile and know it fluently. Sounds like you have the Pinsound Motion-Control and shaker installed. How does it feel?
Also:
1) check your firmware version as a bunch of changes were still being made all the way up to the last/latest version 3.20 (Which displays on the pyramid at power-up). If you don't have the latest, get it from Matt Morin at Mattsbasementarcade.com
2) check the hold-down bracket of the ball-lock kicker coil near the shooter lane. That comes loose sometimes and is so difficult to replace, it often gets left loose and rattling around. If the bracket is missing the two screws, they are #8 in size and 1/4-inch long. Philips head with a lock washer. Install from underside of playfield, using patience and a magnetic head screwdriver!
3) confirm that switch 41-43 (optos) are generating the right codes as the vari target is depressed. The codes can be found in the manual in Sect 3, chp 2, page 28. You can adjust to assure it steps properly through 2,3,4,5,6 and doesn't lock for position 1 or 7.
4) Take a look under your shrunken head at the magnet post. If badly mushroomed, you have a bigger job ahead of you. if slightly mushroomed, I recommend getting a new post from Marco and replace it NOW! ($13 or so). See page 84 in the manual for a picture and the ordering part number of the post
5) Consider fixing the bulb inside the shrunken head. It usually never gets replaced and is likely burned out. See page 95 for info how to remove the head to replace the bulb. It takes a RED #906 bulb.
6) Check the scoop welds. Look inside the curved part of the scoop and make sure the welds are still solid. If you need a new scoop Mantis sells an updated version.
7) Consider the pyramid temple mod. It's steep at $135, but it changes the whole look of the machine for the theme better. https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-pinball-mods/products/ripleys-temple-mod-both-temples
Enjoy!!!
Quoted from Markharris2000:Relatively new to RBIOT club as well. Sounds like you have the Pinsound Motion-Control and shaker installed. How does it feel?
I am relatively new to RBIOT club as well, but now have had my hands inside the machine for awhile and know it fluently. Sounds like you have the Pinsound Motion-Control and shaker installed. How does it feel?
Also:
1) check your firmware version as a bunch of changes were still being made all the way up to the last/latest version 3.20 (Which displays on the pyramid at power-up). If you don't have the latest, get it from Matt Morin at Mattsbasementarcade.com
2) check the hold-down bracket of the ball-lock kicker coil near the shooter lane. That comes loose sometimes and is so difficult to replace, it often gets left loose and rattling around. If the bracket is missing the two screws, they are #8 in size and 1/4-inch long. Philips head with a lock washer. Install from underside of playfield, using patience and a magnetic head screwdriver!
3) confirm that switch 41-43 (optos) are generating the right codes as the vari target is depressed. The codes can be found in the manual in Sect 3, chp 2, page 28. You can adjust to assure it steps properly through 2,3,4,5,6 and doesn't lock for position 1 or 7.
4) Take a look under your shrunken head at the magnet post. If badly mushroomed, you have a bigger job ahead of you. if slightly mushroomed, I recommend getting a new post from Marco and replace it NOW! ($13 or so). See page 84 in the manual for a picture and the ordering part number of the post
5) Consider fixing the bulb inside the shrunken head. It usually never gets replaced and is likely burned out. See page 95 for info how to remove the head to replace the bulb. It takes a RED #906 bulb.
6) Check the scoop welds. Look inside the curved part of the scoop and make sure the welds are still solid. If you need a new scoop Mantis sells an updated version.
Enjoy!!!
I disconnected the shaker motor, I don't like it. (It came with the machine) I will check firmware and got all the lights LED except that damn shrunken head light. I think when I pull it apart to fix optos, I will change light. Thanks for all of this, just when I thought I was done.
Quoted from dantebean:New to Ripley's club and entered back into pinball collecting. Sold all my arcade and pinball machines about 5 years ago to put a nice down payment on a nice house. This Ripley has modded interactive translite LEDs, Color DMD, idol toy, shaker motor, and full led lights. Currently having problems with head optos and may need replaced but other then that, I think I have it where I want it. So glad to be back.
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Welcome to the club, great game. Go ahead and replace the optics. While you're at it, replace the super jackpot and idol optics. They're easily available and dirt cheap. Not that hard to get to either. They're notorious for going out on this game. Skip the time and headache of troubleshooting. most likely, it's the optics...
Quoted from dantebean:I think when I pull it apart to fix optos, I will change light.
I bought a HUO Ripleys and yes I had to replace some optos. Really the only problem. The head is tricky to take off, and upon reading this thread I think I will order a red LED replacement so I don't have to go into his head in the future. I agree the shaker motor makes no sense. Save it for your next game.
Quoted from dantebean:New to Ripley's club and entered back into pinball collecting. Sold all my arcade and pinball machines about 5 years ago to put a nice down payment on a nice house. This Ripley has modded interactive translite LEDs, Color DMD, idol toy, shaker motor, and full led lights. Currently having problems with head optos and may need replaced but other then that, I think I have it where I want it. So glad to be back.
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Welcome back. I love RBION and have owned it twice. There is a lot of pinball in this machine. Underrated, and it’s already in the top 100. I recently got 4 Ripley’s letters, my most so far. Great game! Good luck with yours. Luckily optos are fairly inexpensive.
Has ANYONE achieved Froggy Frenzy? There is a video on line of someone doing it, but it was edited right before he does it so, it was staged.
Quoted from Seamlesswall:Has ANYONE achieved Froggy Frenzy? There is a video on line of someone doing it, but it was edited right before he does it so, it was staged.
I've gotten it once. Been close a few other times, but it is really difficult with so many SJPs needed and limited opportunities to get them. It's much harder to get to Frog Frenzy then Atlantis wizard mode.
Next week I am going to take on replacing a badly mushroomed shrunken head magnetic post. Will pull it from the top. I am going to use the heat method, with a narrow flame propane torch to heat it quickly and to a higher temperature. I also ordered a 1-1/8" wrench socket to get the nut off. My plan is to get a nail-puller from harbor freight and grind the end to snug fit the slot in the end of the post, and then again using the torch heat the post and bracket threads and hopefully screw it out. I have also ordered a new post and bracket from Marco since the threads will have residue of the threadloc and I am sure will cause the same problem down the road. (I have an extra magnetic coil on hand in case the heat deforms/melts the old one). Stay tuned ...
Quoted from Seamlesswall:Has ANYONE achieved Froggy Frenzy? There is a video on line of someone doing it, but it was edited right before he does it so, it was staged.
Not I. Let me end the suspense now, you have to get a SJ AFTER you get all of them lit! I know this becasue I got all of them and expected it to start then 
Think Elwin does it in his tutorial so if that's the one you mean it wouldn't be staged.
Quoted from Seamlesswall:Has ANYONE achieved Froggy Frenzy?
A buddy of mine got to it on my game once.
It is challenge to reach, and not very lucrative once you get there. I think he was getting 100k per shot.
I agree Atlantis is easier. I've reached Atlantis a couple of times, but Frog Frenzy never.
I got a machine in a few weeks ago and it had a bunch of "Tech" alerts at powerup. This was odd since everything seemed to be working, and when I looked into the individual items, each of them were fine. Then I noticed that the game was running 3.00! A little research and found that the latest code was 3.20 and one of the major fixes in the release notes was Alert monitoring was fixed... Seemed like a match made in heaven. Matt Morin Basement Arcade sent me a set of chips and I installed in less than 5 minutes. Rebooted, clean bill of health!!!!
The only issue I see now is the behaviour of the shrunken head magnet seems to have changed. It now feels weaker. Using 3.00 code, it used to throw the ball upward everytime. In the new 3.20 I see it basically just lets go of the ball. Anyone know which beviour is correct or is this adjustable? (I didn't find a setting for it)
Quoted from Markharris2000:I got a machine in a few weeks ago and it had a bunch of "Tech" alerts at powerup. This was odd since everything seemed to be working, and when I looked into the individual items, each of them were fine. Then I noticed that the game was running 3.00! A little research and found that the latest code was 3.20 and one of the major fixes in the release notes was Alert monitoring was fixed... Seemed like a match made in heaven. Matt Morin Basement Arcade sent me a set of chips and I installed in less than 5 minutes. Rebooted, clean bill of health!!!!
The only issue I see now is the behaviour of the shrunken head magnet seems to have changed. It now feels weaker. Using 3.00 code, it used to throw the ball upward everytime. In the new 3.20 I see it basically just lets go of the ball. Anyone know which beviour is correct or is this adjustable? (I didn't find a setting for it)
I believe after a code update like that, the magnet needs to "learn" to throw the ball up again. Kind of like the Phantom Flip in Monster Bash or Thing shot in Addams. After a few plays with magnet hits, the game adjusts and starts throwing the ball correctly.
Here is a little mod I am working on. Ripley travels the world so I thought I’d add a globe somewhere on the playfield.
Had an extra globe from AliExpress, wanted it for a shooter rod but ordered the wrong size.
The base is a work in progress. That blue piece is just something laying around in my garage. Took a flex led and added longer leads to it.
Also I changed the stand up posts on either side of the scoop. The ones from the factory were bent after taking a beating.
The last thing I am working on is getting the ball to launch all the way up to the top rollovers. I can barely get it there with a full plunge and I have to snap it. Thinking of just going up to the next spring tension.
7366F78F-C3E0-446A-AD67-1DC74EED5EDF (resized).jpeg9D933714-3F11-489A-9695-8F9B412481D1 (resized).jpegE8F20584-2095-45B0-948F-45D5E27E660A (resized).jpegQuoted from Markharris2000:I got a machine in a few weeks ago and it had a bunch of "Tech" alerts at powerup. This was odd since everything seemed to be working, and when I looked into the individual items, each of them were fine. Then I noticed that the game was running 3.00! A little research and found that the latest code was 3.20 and one of the major fixes in the release notes was Alert monitoring was fixed... Seemed like a match made in heaven. Matt Morin Basement Arcade sent me a set of chips and I installed in less than 5 minutes. Rebooted, clean bill of health!!!!
The only issue I see now is the behaviour of the shrunken head magnet seems to have changed. It now feels weaker. Using 3.00 code, it used to throw the ball upward everytime. In the new 3.20 I see it basically just lets go of the ball. Anyone know which beviour is correct or is this adjustable? (I didn't find a setting for it)
Check out this thread I had posted in. See if if any help. You can roll ball over magnet 10-15 times to help sort of re-set it. Kind of like what LesManly wrote.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rbion-shrunken-head-magnet-core-gets-hot
Follow up on ball plunging.
Tried installing a red spring, it just felt way too stiff. There was zero bounce from the shooter, just a thud.
Then I noticed the plunger tip was no where near hitting the center of the ball. In fact it was rubbing the auto launch mech. After pushing playfield hard to one side and moving the shooter housing as much as possible. The tip was no where near the center of the ball.
2 options, shim the shooter housing or enlarger the hole in the cabinet.
I choose to enlarge the hole in the cabinet. Burr on the end of the drill did the trick. Now the plunger tip hits the center of the ball. Can easily plunger the top rollovers consistently and on a good snappy plunge the ball can loop all the way around to the upper flipper. My slope is 6.5 degrees.
0840E8BB-2423-4F9E-9FDE-72DED6CDDCB7 (resized).jpegA7455B34-6C46-4906-80EF-BD86FFAD7636 (resized).jpegQuoted from Stebel:Follow up on ball plunging.
Tried installing a red spring, it just felt way too stiff. There was zero bounce from the shooter, just a thud.
Then I noticed the plunger tip was no where near hitting the center of the ball. In fact it was rubbing the auto launch mech. After pushing playfield hard to one side and moving the shooter housing as much as possible. The tip was no where near the center of the ball.
2 options, shim the shooter housing or enlarger the hole in the cabinet.
I choose to enlarge the hole in the cabinet. Burr on the end of the drill did the trick. Now the plunger tip hits the center of the ball. Can easily plunger the top rollovers consistently and on a good snappy plunge the ball can loop all the way around to the upper flipper. My slope is 6.5 degrees.
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Also remember that the playfield can be (mis-)aligned slightly when lowering it, left to right within the cabinet. That playfield alignment will also affect the dead-center focus of the plunger tip.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Also remember that the playfield can be (mis-)aligned slightly when lowering it, left to right within the cabinet. That playfield alignment will also affect the dead-center focus of the plunger tip.
If I jam the playfield hard to one side or the other I am still pretty centered on the ball. No rub on the auto launch mech. There is a centering clip mounted on the side of the cabinet. It pretty much takes away any misalignment when lowering.
Quoted from Stebel:If I jam the playfield hard to one side or the other I am still pretty centered on the ball. No rub on the auto launch mech. There is a centering clip mounted on the side of the cabinet. It pretty much takes away any misalignment when lowering.
That's great. My machine has just a hint of play side to side.
Quoted from Stebel:Follow up on ball plunging.
Tried installing a red spring, it just felt way too stiff. There was zero bounce from the shooter, just a thud.
Then I noticed the plunger tip was no where near hitting the center of the ball. In fact it was rubbing the auto launch mech. After pushing playfield hard to one side and moving the shooter housing as much as possible. The tip was no where near the center of the ball.
2 options, shim the shooter housing or enlarger the hole in the cabinet.
I choose to enlarge the hole in the cabinet. Burr on the end of the drill did the trick. Now the plunger tip hits the center of the ball. Can easily plunger the top rollovers consistently and on a good snappy plunge the ball can loop all the way around to the upper flipper. My slope is 6.5 degrees.
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Thank you for the scoop idea. Mine are creating airballs because they are beat so much. I like the globe mod you created as well. Happy gaming.
Quoted from Stebel:Here is a little mod I am working on. Ripley travels the world so I thought I’d add a globe somewhere on the playfield.
Had an extra globe from AliExpress, wanted it for a shooter rod but ordered the wrong size.
The base is a work in progress. That blue piece is just something laying around in my garage. Took a flex led and added longer leads to it.
Also I changed the stand up posts on either side of the scoop. The ones from the factory were bent after taking a beating.
The last thing I am working on is getting the ball to launch all the way up to the top rollovers. I can barely get it there with a full plunge and I have to snap it. Thinking of just going up to the next spring tension.
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Very cool and appropriate! I'd buy one of those globes for sure! I'm currently looking into the best, most economic way to take a toy penguin and mount roller skates onto it. The penguin callouts and general gameplay aspects of the machine regarding this are so prevalent, it makes me wonder why a penguin on roller skates wasn't a toy on the playfield to begin with.
Quoted from Stebel:Follow up on ball plunging.
Tried installing a red spring, it just felt way too stiff. There was zero bounce from the shooter, just a thud.
Then I noticed the plunger tip was no where near hitting the center of the ball. In fact it was rubbing the auto launch mech. After pushing playfield hard to one side and moving the shooter housing as much as possible. The tip was no where near the center of the ball.
2 options, shim the shooter housing or enlarger the hole in the cabinet.
I choose to enlarge the hole in the cabinet. Burr on the end of the drill did the trick. Now the plunger tip hits the center of the ball. Can easily plunger the top rollovers consistently and on a good snappy plunge the ball can loop all the way around to the upper flipper. My slope is 6.5 degrees.
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Markharris2000 Could this be directly related to the whole plunger nor auto redirecting the ball unexpectedly/not up the intended spinner loop? I'll have to see if my PF has the "give" described here. I will say that when I looked the other day, the manual plunger was hugging the left side of the auto arm. Unsure if its always been that way.
Quoted from timlah79:markharris2000 Could this be directly related to the whole plunger nor auto redirecting the ball unexpectedly/not up the intended spinner loop? I'll have to see if my PF has the "give" described here. I will say that when I looked the other day, the manual plunger was hugging the left side of the auto arm. Unsure if its always been that way.
Treat the manual and auto plungers separately, and start with the manual. Do whatever it takes to adjust the mount or the playfield to allow the very tip of the plunger to contact the very center of the ball when it is sitting at rest in the shooter lane. Remember the tip itself is sometimes installed crooked, the playfield *may* have some play left to right, and the mount may have been loosened and reinstalled for a number of reasons and now is affecting dead-center. Once the manual plunger is confirmed to hit properly, it's onto the auto, and that usually starts with a check to see if the two forks are touching the ball at rest. People tend to simply bend the metal forks ever so slightly to assure they both touch at the same time. Start there, then it's onto the ball guide curves if the exit from the shooter lane still hits the upper left post. (I am adjusting that bend/exit this week myself).
Dear RBION owners,
Can someone help me with the correct sizes for the Hex Spacers used to secure the Left Plastic Ramp above the playfield at the front exit.
The manual says a 3-1/2" x 1/4" Hex Spacer for the Left front and a 1-5/8" x 1/4" Hex Spacer for the Right front (onto a Post Hex Base)
Especially the 1-5/8" x 1/4" Hex Spacer for the Right front seems to be incorrect.
That is why i'm confused.
Hope you can help me out.
Best regards,
Rob
Quoted from Markharris2000:A set of apron cards I made up this afternoon
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This has become addictive. New cards, light and dark. Better FONT for all
ripley's cards-FREEPLAY.pdfripley's cards-RULES.pdfQuoted from dantebean:Thank you for the scoop idea. Mine are creating airballs because they are beat so much. I like the globe mod you created as well. Happy gaming.
This has become addictive. New cards, light and dark. Better FONT for all
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They look great!
Yesterday I replaced the shrunken head magnet. It had been mushroomed quite badly, but ironically, the playfield around it was pristine! So to preserve the playfield, I had to get the post out from the top. After searching a bunch of similar posts on various machines with playfield magnets, I realized that the biggest challenge was finding the right tool to be used as a huge screwdriver for the slot in the post. I also ordered a replacement post, just in case.
Enter Harbor Freight Pry Bar Item #60681. $4 steel bar, which could be ground down in 5 minutes to fit the slot perfectly, and with a 15-16 inch swing, enough leverage to break any threadloc or other grime with ease. I used a bench-top grinder and flattened and squared the forks. When ready, I applied some heat to the metal magnet post and bracket using a flexible butane candle lighter. I warmed it so that it was hot to the touch, but did not burn my finger doing so. Then I inserted the prybar that I have ground down into the post slot and slowly nudged the bar clockwise. It started to unscrew after pressure was applied for a few seconds. And once it started, getting it out from the top was short work. I decided to use the new post since I had it in my hand, but also took the old post and ground it on the bench grinder to make it flat and perfect again for the next swap.
Let me emphasize that grinding the prybar to fit the post slot perfectly was the KEY to this whole process! When I was done, the bar was snug and had no play or wobble. The grinding took me 5 minutes and was made easier by having my replacement post in my hand as I used the grinder to keep checking the fit.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Treat the manual and auto plungers separately, and start with the manual. Do whatever it takes to adjust the mount or the playfield to allow the very tip of the plunger to contact the very center of the ball when it is sitting at rest in the shooter lane. Remember the tip itself is sometimes installed crooked, the playfield *may* have some play left to right, and the mount may have been loosened and reinstalled for a number of reasons and now is affecting dead-center. Once the manual plunger is confirmed to hit properly, it's onto the auto, and that usually starts with a check to see if the two forks are touching the ball at rest. People tend to simply bend the metal forks ever so slightly to assure they both touch at the same time. Start there, then it's onto the ball guide curves if the exit from the shooter lane still hits the upper left post. (I am adjusting that bend/exit this week myself).
Change the manual plunger rod out with a WMS plunger rod. They are 1/4" longer.
I am looking for someone that has the installation instructions for the Back Alley TEMPLE MOD kit. For some reason the large temple pyramid in the back left corner is unattached on the left side. Seems wrong. I don't know who installed it, but it seems wrong or missing a fastener. I would like to take a look at the instructions before I dig in too far. Any have them they could send me via PDF?
Quoted from Markharris2000:I am looking for someone that has the installation instructions for the Back Alley TEMPLE MOD kit. For some reason the large temple pyramid in the back left corner is unattached on the left side. Seems wrong. I don't know who installed it, but it seems wrong or missing a fastener. I would like to take a look at the instructions before I dig in too far. Any have them they could send me via PDF?
I can help here since I recently got mine and installed it. Unfortunately there aren't any instructions that come with it. That's actually normal that there is no attachment in the back left. Why not? I'm not quite sure. For the right side bracket you should notice that the ramp hole placement has changed from the original temple's bracket. You just use the other hole to strap the stock flood lamp wire there and use the other for the new temple bracket. The top center post screw should be holding things together just fine.
The mistake I made was I didn't realize you need to pull the purple cover out of the mod then attach all 4 screws to it from the board so may be worth checking that all 4 screws are attached.
Then for the small mod, the issue I ran into was that the heads of the two screws it came with were too large for the mold. Matt who designs these said it's ok, just allow the screws to depress the mod slightly, no great risk of cracking it. Screenshot attached (I later screwed both in just a bit tighter after taking that phot). If I had smaller head screws the same size I would have replaced them. But the molds are super high quality stuff for sure. While it is a but unnerving that the large temple is missing that left side attachment, I don't see any risk there. Matt is super helpful too if you feel the need to reach out to him: backalleycreations.com
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The one game I really regret selling and I am so envious of you all
This is truly THE BEST GAME EVER!
Quoted from oldskool1969:The one game I really regret selling and I am so envious of you all
This is truly THE BEST GAME EVER!
I looked for most of 2020 to find a pristine one. Finally got it from a guy in Kansas a few months ago. It’s another Lawlor/Youssi home run for sure!!!
How is the back left plastic leveled? I'm speaking of the one with three lanes for the ball to go through. On my machine, the ball will go about 80% right, 15% middle, and 5% left. It seems like it should be secured on the left side, but the Back Alley mod posts above indicate that it isn't.
Also, the sound is sometimes scratchy/muffled. I was told I need to replace a capacitor for that?
Quoted from Agent_Hero:How is the back left plastic leveled? I'm speaking of the one with three lanes for the ball to go through. On my machine, the ball will go about 80% right, 15% middle, and 5% left. It seems like it should be secured on the left side, but the Back Alley mod posts above indicate that it isn't.
I have never touched mine. Middle 50% of the time, left 15% and right 35%. My playfield is 6.8 degrees, leveled with PinGuy app.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:How is the back left plastic leveled? I'm speaking of the one with three lanes for the ball to go through. On my machine, the ball will go about 80% right, 15% middle, and 5% left. It seems like it should be secured on the left side, but the Back Alley mod posts above indicate that it isn't.
Also, the sound is sometimes scratchy/muffled. I was told I need to replace a capacitor for that?
I'm also curious about the fix for scratchy sound. Mine has always had that issue.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'm also curious about the fix for scratchy sound. Mine has always had that issue.
'Scratchy' sound is hard to diagnose, but the audio section on Whitestar's are mostly bullet-proof... they either work or they don't. See page 133 in the manual. You'll see the speakers are connected to CN4, and there is NOTHING on the board between the amplifer chips U101/U102 and the CN4 connector pins. So that would lead me to think that the speaker(s) or the wiring are at fault. See page 108 for the wiring of the speakers, again CN4, pins 3-4 for the backbox speakers, and 6-7 for the cabinet. Notice the backbox speakers are wired in series using just two wires.
Can you hear sound coming out of each of the two smaller speakers, and the larger cabibet speaker? Where is the 'scratchy' sound coming from?
Lastly, if you mean the buzz/humm when you say 'scratchy', that is an easy R106/R110 fix. R106 is a 10K now, you can easily solder another 10K ACROSS it. And R110 is a 33K now, you can solder another 27K or 33K across it. This essentially halves the values and reduces the AMPlifier gain to about half, reducing the buzz/humm that you hear in the background of everything.
The specific diagnosis from a local tech was “the sound circuit needs to be rebuilt” and that it’s common on Whitestar games.
I assumed the yellow wire was bent or something similarly innocuous since it happens infrequently.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:The specific diagnosis from a local tech was “the sound circuit needs to be rebuilt” and that it’s common on Whitestar games.
I assumed the yellow wire was bent or something similarly innocuous since it happens infrequently.
Never heard of a sound circuit needing to be "rebuilt". But wiring or the connectors can need to be fixed. It would be really rare for the PCB section to need any work for the sound. Again, chip based amplifiers are usually very binary: They either work or they don't.
Can you describe exactly what you are hearing? From which speaker or speakers? Does it sound all the time, or only when voice or music is playing? Are all three of the speakers producing some kind of sound? How high is your volume set?
Quoted from Markharris2000:Never heard of a sound circuit needing to be "rebuilt". But wiring or the connectors can need to be fixed. It would be really rare for the PCB section to need any work for the sound. Again, chip based amplifiers are usually very binary: They either work or they don't.
Can you describe exactly what you are hearing? From which speaker or speakers? Does it sound all the time, or only when voice or music is playing? Are all three of the speakers producing some kind of sound? How high is your volume set?
I'm not sure if any speaker in particular is doing this. It's mostly during the narrator saying clearly "It's time to visit (then muffled/scratchy) North America". Sometimes the shrunken head's dialog will be similarly scratchy. The previous owner kept the volume low, as do I, since lower volume seems to help it be less noticeable. I used to have a TSPP that also had this infrequent issue. I just assumed the flat yellow wires had been pinched from removing and replacing the speaker panel.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I'm not sure if any speaker in particular is doing this. It's mostly during the narrator saying clearly "It's time to visit (then muffled/scratchy) North America". Sometimes the shrunken head's dialog will be similarly scratchy. The previous owner kept the volume low, as do I, since lower volume seems to help it be less noticeable. I used to have a TSPP that also had this infrequent issue. I just assumed the flat yellow wires had been pinched from removing and replacing the speaker panel.
Those flat wires are power “grounds” and have little effect on what you are hearing. Are you sure you are getting ANY sound from the back box speakers? I have a hunch you are only hearing the cabinet speaker, which would sound muffled and miss all the crisp sound. See if you hear ANYTHING from the back box speakers. (Put your ear right up to the back box)
Mine is a constant slight scratchy sound. Scratchy or static is the best adjective I can use to describe it. All 3 speakers work fine and are at low volume. Its not annoying enough to really be seriously bothersome, but its definitely there. Definitely from both backbox speakers and I suspect from the cabinet sub as well.
If CN4 has a plug at the connector pins, i can try reseating that plug. I could also reflow any solder points that may be suspect.
Has anyone ever bought/installed this TV Mod for RBION? https://mezelmods.com/collections/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-pinball-mods/products/ripleys-believe-it-or-not-pinball-video-display-mod
I can't seem to find any pictures online showing where people have put it on the playfield. It's probably overkill for RBION but I'm just curious. I have a custom Nedry monitor mod on my JPLE which I love--its super cool in that you can load any videos you want onto it via a USB stick. There are some animations/videos for JP that I've obtained and looped (Nedry's computer animations, the DVD player video from the tour trucks). I even edited them to give a "bulbing" effect, simulating a CRT monitor screen. Pics of that and the RBOIN TV product pic below.
RBION TV (resized).jpg
JP Nedry Monitor (resized).jpg
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Woodstock, NY
Barrie, ON
Amersfoort
Gilligan's Island