(Topic ID: 90719)

Club RBION: The Strange, the unusual, the bizarre!


By chadderack

5 years ago



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  • 830 posts
  • 119 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by Flippermatt
  • Topic is favorited by 51 Pinsiders

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There are 830 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 17.
#651 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I have one and I LOVE it! I went with LCD for the reason stated by Thelaw. The LCD version is an actual screen made to look like dots, and you can change the display settings easily to change the look. The LED version is actual LEDs, so there arent any options for changing the appearance

I went with the Colour LED display in mine. It's brighter and has more vibrantly displayed colours.
The Hi-Res feature I don't need and the LCD can't get any brighter, still great in any case.

#652 1 year ago

Has anybody in the group installed a Pinsound board in their game....yet?
What do you think?

#653 1 year ago

I installed those new translucent bumper bodies into my Ripley's. Bugger of a job.
Looks good.

IMG_0010 (resized).JPGIMG_0026 (resized).JPGIMG_0207 (resized).JPG
#654 1 year ago

The red and Clear Translucent Pop Bodies.

IMG_0021 (resized).JPG
#655 1 year ago
Quoted from pintuck:

Accidental, I Just noticed, is that a rubber on the pop bumper skirt in photo 5686?

It sure was! It was out there by a previous owner. See my "side note" in the post containing the photo.

#656 1 year ago

Sure wish someone would release updated code for this game. Surprising how many bugs are in the final 3.20. That Idol Million bug on Antarctica mode pisses me off every time. Anyone here have the skills????

#657 1 year ago

Does anyone else have an issue when shooting the right loop the ball sometimes has a major slowdown near the diverter mechanism? I’m wondering if this is common or if I have a problem?

#658 1 year ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

Does anyone else have an issue when shooting the right loop the ball sometimes has a major slowdown near the diverter mechanism? I’m wondering if this is common or if I have a problem?

You have a problem

#659 1 year ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

Does anyone else have an issue when shooting the right loop the ball sometimes has a major slowdown near the diverter mechanism? I’m wondering if this is common or if I have a problem?

Check to make sure the post is flush with the playfield. It shouldn't have any affect when down.

#660 1 year ago

Okay RBION club, I've been working on something and have just finalized the design on a custom speaker panel decal for the pin. Before I make these available, I wanted to engage the level of interest. They are quite time consuming to create (I make them by hand), and therefore would be asking $50 each plus shipping (probably < $10).

Take a look, and just post to this thread if you would be serious/committed to purchasing one.

For full details, I print these on high quality OEM gloss photo media using a six color photo inkjet printer with OEM inks only (i.e. I don't cut any corners or expense by using third party lesser quality paper or ink). I then cover with 3mil gloss vinyl to project the image and to make the decal more durable. For the adhesive, I use Scotch permeant double sided tape around all edges and throughout the body of the decal. Finally, I cut using a straight edge to make sure all edges are clean and straight. I've made a couple of these speaker panel decals for others, and they both look and perform great (not to mention the hundreds of other decals I've sold using this same methodology). If interest is high enough, I might explore what it would take to have them professionally printed on adhesive vinyl, but I don't know if/how that might impact the cost.

So with the above stated, here are the pics. Please note that if I do produce them, I will be offering in two variations: with and without the photos.

b.jpga.jpg

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

#661 1 year ago

I would be interested in the non photo version. I think the photos make it look a little too busy. I love the simple map version.

#662 1 year ago

I like the no photo version the best.
Terry.

#663 1 year ago

I'd do plain, the photo version is a bit to symmetrical fro my tastes. I also feel like the yellow is touch too bright? If I look at the apron's yellow vs. the new yellow it's just too bright. Or maybe it just seems that way; just my 2¢

#664 1 year ago

Hey guys, I appreciate everyone's comments. However, it seems that I may not have made something clear. Right now I'm gauging general interest for those who would want to buy either of the designs. In other words, if/when I make them available, each buyer will get to pick from the two versions the style they want. This is not an either/or situation . . . i.e. each individual at time of order will be able to choose 1) design with pics or 2) design w/o pics.

If there are only a couple of people interested, then I'll proceed with my homemade version. However, if there are several who are seriously interested then I'm going to explore having them professionally made due to the time and effort it takes to create them.

Keep up the feedback, and I appreciate everyone's interest.

#665 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hey guys, I appreciate everyone's comments. However, it seems that I may not have made something clear. Right now I'm gauging general interest for those who would want to buy either of the designs. In other words, if/when I make them available, each buyer will get to pick from the two versions the style they want. This is not an either/or situation . . . i.e. each individual at time of order will be able to choose 1) design with pics or 2) design w/o pics.
If there are only a couple of people interested, then I'll proceed with my homemade version. However, if there are several who are seriously interested then I'm going to explore having them professionally made due to the time and effort it takes to create them.
Keep up the feedback, and I appreciate everyone's interest.

I'd be interested in one. Also would probably choose the non-photo version.

#666 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I'd do plain, the photo version is a bit to symmetrical fro my tastes. I also feel like the yellow is touch too bright? If I look at the apron's yellow vs. the new yellow it's just too bright. Or maybe it just seems that way; just my 2¢

I second this opinion

#667 1 year ago

Hey guys quick question - my scoop has started ejecting balls into the wireform that feeds the left inlane from the right ramp. What would be the best way to tweak this?

#668 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I second this opinion

It most likely is a brighter yellow than the apron decals. Since I don't own one myself or have access to one locally, I had to go by pics of the backbox sides I could find online. If anyone has a decal or some other actual piece they would be willing to let me borrow, then I could match the coloring, as various photos are all over the place. I'm definitely open to changing the color, but I need a live sample.

Alternatively, if someone has access to a pantone color bridge (coated), they could give my the closest Pantone number based on the CMYK swatch. Well, I guess I could even take a standard Pantone chart number then match the CMYK myself. Would just need to be clear on what Pandone standard was being utilized.

#669 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaBeast:

Hey guys quick question - my scoop has started ejecting balls into the wireform that feeds the left inlane from the right ramp. What would be the best way to tweak this?

The scoop has probably broken it's welds. Pretty common issue on this game. Take it out and get it welded back into place. You can also bend the top curve of the scoop to adjust it's trajectory as a stopgap measure, but it's not going to solve your problem long term.

#670 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

The scoop has probably broken it's welds. Pretty common issue on this game. Take it out and get it welded back into place. You can also bend the top curve of the scoop to adjust it's trajectory as a stopgap measure, but it's not going to solve your problem long term.

Thank you sir - I'll take a look and see if I can make out a break in the scoop. Pardon my noobness on this but where exactly are the welds?

#671 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaBeast:

Thank you sir - I'll take a look and see if I can make out a break in the scoop. Pardon my noobness on this but where exactly are the welds?

The scoop can be removed rather easily from below the playfield. Once its removed, you will see the welds. They're obvious. Mine were broken also. Make sure whoever welds it is pretty precise and used stainless material. EDIT: You cant see the welds good enough while the scoop is mounted. Just remove it.

#672 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

The scoop can be removed rather easily from below the playfield. Once its removed, you will see the welds. They're obvious. Mine were broken also. Make sure whoever welds it is pretty precise and used stainless material. EDIT: You cant see the welds good enough while the scoop is mounted. Just remove it.

Awesome - I'll check it out. Thanks for the feedback guys!

1 week later
#673 1 year ago

Can anyone here tell me which fuse is for the 3 flashers? Mine are suddenly (well I just noticed, so not sure how long) out and I assume this should be my first step. I’ve tried to figure it out from the manual but not sure. Thanks!

#674 1 year ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

Can anyone here tell me which fuse is for the 3 flashers? Mine are suddenly (well I just noticed, so not sure how long) out and I assume this should be my first step. I’ve tried to figure it out from the manual but not sure. Thanks!

I think you should be looking at F7... hopefully someone else can confirm.

Sometimes it’s the simplest things: are you sure all three flasher bulbs are good?

#675 1 year ago

F7 looks correct...

fuse1 (resized).JPGfuse2 (resized).JPG
#676 1 year ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I think you should be looking at F7... hopefully someone else can confirm.
Sometimes it’s the simplest things: are you sure all three flasher bulbs are good?

I’m not. Unfortunately I’m out and have on order. Will be the first thing I check once I get them. I thought it was F7, just double checking. Thanks!!!

#677 1 year ago

Finally made it to Atlantis today! So much harder to reach than Frog Frenzy.

Very cool mode. I hadn't spoiled it by watching any videos so it was a nice surprise.

#678 1 year ago

Frog frenzy def harder for me... Still havent got it and been Atlantis way twice.

#679 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Frog frenzy def harder for me... Still havent got it and been Atlantis way twice.

I really enjoy the double-stage flipper gameplay and multiball is easy to start, which is probably why I've reached Frog Frenzy three times already. If I get three or more supers in the first multiball then I'll focus on getting the rest of them via RIPOFF, then multiball 2, and the temple awards.

How big is the gap between your right flipper button leaf switches? I adjusted mine fairly large so there is a big sweet spot to perform double-stage flips.

#680 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

How big is the gap between your right flipper button leaf switches? I adjusted mine fairly large so there is a big sweet spot to perform double-stage flips.

Ah yes well that might have something to do with it...keep mine standard.

#681 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Ah yes well that might have something to do with it...keep mine standard.

I replaced mine for a new 'improved' leaf switch part that seemed to have more of a gap.

#682 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay RBION club, I've been working on something and have just finalized the design on a custom speaker panel decal for the pin. Before I make these available, I wanted to engage the level of interest. They are quite time consuming to create (I make them by hand), and therefore would be asking $50 each plus shipping (probably &lt; $10).
Take a look, and just post to this thread if you would be serious/committed to purchasing one.
For full details, I print these on high quality OEM gloss photo media using a six color photo inkjet printer with OEM inks only (i.e. I don't cut any corners or expense by using third party lesser quality paper or ink). I then cover with 3mil gloss vinyl to project the image and to make the decal more durable. For the adhesive, I use Scotch permeant double sided tape around all edges and throughout the body of the decal. Finally, I cut using a straight edge to make sure all edges are clean and straight. I've made a couple of these speaker panel decals for others, and they both look and perform great (not to mention the hundreds of other decals I've sold using this same methodology). If interest is high enough, I might explore what it would take to have them professionally printed on adhesive vinyl, but I don't know if/how that might impact the cost.
So with the above stated, here are the pics. Please note that if I do produce them, I will be offering in two variations: with and without the photos.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Count me in for a speaker decal.

#683 1 year ago

RBION owners, I'm getting really close to knowing if I'm going to be able to offer professionally printed versions of my speaker panel decal (adhesive vinyl with a clear gloss coating). As soon as I know, I will post pics and then get formal orders. I will only be able to do one single run, so I'll provide all of the details when I'm ready, give everyone a week or two to commit, take down payments, then we will be off and running.

#684 1 year ago

Went looking for my first RBION and managed to find this one. Bought it from the original owners daughter, who’s mom got it brand new for the home game room. It was a little dirty but when I wiped the dirt away with some novus 1, it was perfect underneath Put in LEDs, ledocd board, ColorDMD, and working on clear rubbers all around. Really dig this game, glad I went looking for one. The penguins are awesome

23B6BB62-24F9-475C-9658-CBF7EAD407A7 (resized).jpegF2506247-12F6-48C0-BEF7-5F6DA3E2A455 (resized).jpeg
#685 1 year ago

It's such a fun and very challenging game once you understand the rules. I think this title will become more and more sought after as people continue to discover it.

1 week later
#686 1 year ago

So after about a week of chasing some minor issues I think my machine is running pretty well. I do have a couple of questions...sure you guys can offer some help. Ball launch....this machine has a hard time rolling through the spinner and all the way around to the top lanes...is that normal? Also...as the ball rolls down through the lanes...doesn't seem to have enough force to make the pops work...coming off the magnet is fine. Think I need to clean them...but thought I would throw it out there. Also....ball sometimes gets stuck on that rubber at the upper pops. Guess I could give it a bit more pitch...Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance.

#687 1 year ago

The launch is hard to get set up correctly yes.
Sounds like a pitch issue maybe? I'd check to make sure you have the correct size rubbers, or you pop switches are set up right. Def shouldn't have any issues activating pops.

#688 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Ball launch....this machine has a hard time rolling through the spinner and all the way around to the top lanes...is that normal?

You can loosen a nut under the play field that is attached to the end of the RH shooter lane guide in order to adjust the trajectory of launched balls. Have a play around with that. If your momentum is due to the ball not cleanly entering the inner orbit then that will solve it. If this still doesn't solve it and the problem is that the auto-launcher doesn't have enough power, then clean the mech and replace the coil sleeve with a new one, and ensure your shooter lane is clean and waxed.

Quoted from gcmess:

Also...as the ball rolls down through the lanes...doesn't seem to have enough force to make the pops work...coming off the magnet is fine. Think I need to clean them...but thought I would throw it out there. Also....ball sometimes gets stuck on that rubber at the upper pops.

Go under the playfield and adjust all of the bumper leaf switches to be as close as possible without touching. That will make them very lively! If they fire from unrelated game vibration then they are too close. But you want to be right on the limit. It can also be worthwhile replacing the spoons that activate these switches. New spoons will be more flexible and also help your bumper action.

This should also mitigate your stuck ball problem, in addition to increasing the pitch. But be aware, changing the pitch also changes the trajectory of your ball launch so you'll have to tweak that if you adjust the pitch.

#689 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

You can loosen a nut under the play field that is attached to the end of the RH shooter lane guide in order to adjust the trajectory of launched balls. Have a play around with that. If your momentum is due to the ball not cleanly entering the inner orbit then that will solve it. If this still doesn't solve it and the problem is that the auto-launcher doesn't have enough power, then clean the mech and replace the coil sleeve with a new one, and ensure your shooter lane is clean and waxed.

Go under the playfield and adjust all of the bumper leaf switches to be as close as possible without touching. That will make them very lively! If they fire from unrelated game vibration then they are too close. But you want to be right on the limit. It can also be worthwhile replacing the spoons that activate these switches. New spoons will be more flexible and also help your bumper action.
This should also mitigate your stuck ball problem, in addition to increasing the pitch. But be aware, changing the pitch also changes the trajectory of your ball launch so you'll have to tweak that if you adjust the pitch.

Thanks for all the info. Been reading through this forum and saw that there is a adjustment (after I posted this) for both shooter lane and the lock ball lane....going to have to take a look at both of those. I did try to clean the contacts a little on the pop switches...it helped but still think I have a bit more work to do....

#690 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

I did try to clean the contacts a little on the pop switches...it helped but still think I have a bit more work to do....

You definitely want to adjust the switches to be as close as possible without accidentally firing. That and replacing the spoons will make the pop bumpers AWESOME

#691 1 year ago

Okay guys, I'm back to discuss my custom speaker panel decal. I received my first professional printed version in the mail yesterday, and I must say that the materials and the cutting look incredible. The media is a high quality adhesive white vinyl with a gloss coat. The decal cutout is by machine so the lines are perfectly straight and tight, and the rounded edges of the cutouts are flawless. Take a look at the pic below, as this is the actual decal (the decal is fully cut and the white area is just the protected backing to be peeled off).

However, I think that my coloring could be better. As I've stated before, I don't have access to a RBION for me to visually inspect and to determine color values. Therefore, before I can post details of offering these for sale, I really need the assistance of the community. "Accidental" has provided estimated Pantone values of the graphics, but others have requested that instead of matching the yellow of the side art that the coloring be closer to the tones on the apron decals.

So, here is what I am asking:
1) I am only going to make one version of the decal (see pic). Based upon feedback at this point, most prefer the version I have without the oddity photos. However, for those of you who may be interested, do you think matching the bright yellow of the cabinet art would be best and mix in with the backglass or would you prefer the muted coloring of the apron decals?
2) Does somebody have an extra apron decal that they can send me to borrow (I will return)?
3) Can someone at a minimum give me a Pantone value (coated - processed) of the cards and even provide me a photo with the Pantone stick on top of the apron decal so that I can see it?

Once I have this, then I'm ready to test print a final version and then offer the decal to the community.

As a FYI, here is what I'm thinking at this point:

1) This is going to be a one time print run only, and I'm only printing what I have orders for (i.e. no extras for those who may be interested in the future). In other words, you must commit and order when I make them available, or you will forever lose your chance.
2) I need at least 5 commitments to print, but if we get to 10 I will be able to lower the price a few dollars.
3) Projected cost will be $50 at qty 5, and $45 or maybe less at qty 10+ (I haven't calculated shipping costs yet, but probably around $10 to USA - outside US will be calculated on a per order basis). Again, once I have a final number from the printer based on quantities, the costs could come down slightly (they absolutely will not increase).
4) I will require a $20 deposit to secure your order, then the balance will be due before shipment.
5) From the time I make the offer, I will provide a window of at least 2 weeks for commitments and deposits. Everyone will have ample time to commit before I close the opportunity. If we don't get at least 5, then I will refund everyone's deposit at time of closing the offer.

You will have to trust me on this one, but I have dozens of people who have purchased from me in the past that will speak to my character, and I've even had one project that did not make the cut where I happily refunded everyone's money. This is a hobby of mine, not a business. My motives are to use what skills/talents I have to contribute to the pinball community as a whole in a fair and affordable manner.

Anyway, please give me your feedback on the coloring (match the yellow of the side art or the tan of the apron decals), and again if someone could please give me a close Pantone color to the apron art (a pic with the Pantone swatch overlapping one of the apron decals would be ideal), then I'll decide on a final coloring and open up my offering to the group.
RBION.jpg

#692 1 year ago

The speaker panel looks nice and I’d be in for one. I think it would look better matching the back glass as it would be right next to it and visible from the same angle, yeah?

#693 1 year ago

I'm definitely in for one!

#694 1 year ago
Quoted from Darkwing:

The speaker panel looks nice and I’d be in for one. I think it would look better matching the back glass as it would be right next to it and visible from the same angle, yeah?

That was kind of my thought. FYI, I found a local Pinsider who owns a RBION, so I've reached out to see if he will let me have access to it. If he does, then I can really hone in on accurate coloring.

1 week later
#695 1 year ago

Well guys, no response from local owner I PM'd yet. I'll keep trying and looking for others.

#696 1 year ago

Think I need some help....my machine seems to play correctly except the annoying idol sounds are constant and it seems to score points and lights are flashing constantly. It does stop every now and then when in a continent mode or something else but mostly on all the time. Started looking at the switches...but thought maybe someone could direct me to a quick solution. Optos? Any ideas?

#697 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Think I need some help....my machine seems to play correctly except the annoying idol sounds are constant and it seems to score points and lights are flashing constantly. It does stop every now and then when in a continent mode or something else but mostly on all the time. Started looking at the switches...but thought maybe someone could direct me to a quick solution. Optos? Any ideas?

I would ASSume it's the optos for the idol. You can go in test mode for switches and see if it's constantly tripping that switch.
I'm wondering if that opto is connected to a small board under the PLayfield (It's either that one, the head, or both)? I would look for that and look for anyting weird; loose connection etc. If it is there and the idol is triggering in switch test move see if moving the connector around does anything.

EDIT: I guess physically inspect the opto itself first above the PF...make sure it's not loose there and pointing down.
But that is classic bad opto behavior.

#698 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I would ASSume it's the optos for the idol. You can go in test mode for switches and see if it's constantly tripping that switch.
I'm wondering if that opto is connected to a small board under the PLayfield (It's either that one, the head, or both)? I would look for that and look for anyting weird; loose connection etc. If it is there and the idol is triggering in switch test move see if moving the connector around does anything.
EDIT: I guess physically inspect the opto itself first above the PF...make sure it's not loose there and pointing down.
But that is classic bad opto behavior.

OK...thanks....thats where I'll start...

#699 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Think I need some help....my machine seems to play correctly except the annoying idol sounds are constant and it seems to score points and lights are flashing constantly. It does stop every now and then when in a continent mode or something else but mostly on all the time. Started looking at the switches...but thought maybe someone could direct me to a quick solution. Optos? Any ideas?

Almost certainly the optics under the idol. Mine did the same thing. They're notorious for going out. Cheap fix also. Easy to replace. Bet you money that's your issue.

#700 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Almost certainly the optics under the idol. Mine did the same thing. They're notorious for going out. Cheap fix also. Easy to replace. Bet you money that's your issue.

So...clear this up for me please. Optic switch under idol is working....block led with ball or finger and it shows active switch...but only when I block it does the chatter and lights stop....when operating normally, it just won't shut up. Does that mean new assemblies and board?

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