(Topic ID: 220884)

RBION Head Magnet Help

By ItsBwalt

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by ItsBwalt
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

So a new problem started up with my RBION. Basically the head magnet stopped registering, it wont grab the ball OR register that its even been hit as it rolls through the head tunnel. But it also is just randomly registering hits, when I'm not even close to hitting it. I can be cradling the ball and it will just start acting like the head has been hit. So I guess that means there is a short some where or something? Im a huge noob so go easy on me. I just want to know where to begin trouble shooting. I thought maybe just the little laser beam was being obstructed by the head but as far as I can tell thats no the case.

Thanks guys!!

#2 5 years ago

Switch test - see if the little laser beam works if you block it.

Pull fuse for magnet and check with a meter.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Switch test - see if the little laser beam works if you block it.
Pull fuse for magnet and check with a meter.
LTG : )

Hey LTG! I did a switch test, it says the shrunken head opto is active, constantly. I can't make it stop reading active. What does that mean haha!

NOOB

Bret

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from ItsBwalt:

What does that mean

It means it's borked.

The optos plug onto a small board below the playfield. Reseat them a couple times. If that fixes it. Next time reflow the solder on the pins the connector plugs onto and plug the connector back on and put a dab of hot glue on it to help hold it.

LTG : )

#5 5 years ago

You can also try cleaning the optos with a qtip and rubbing alcohol.

The symptom you describe is as if something is breaking the beam.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

The symptom you describe is as if something is breaking the beam.

Or power to one or both cut. ( it's a connector issue )

LTG : )

#7 5 years ago

I had this same issue with mine just last week. It turned out to be a broken wire on the opto transmitter (the one shining the red light).

The way this switch works is that the receiver expects to see this red light from the transmitter at all times. When the light path is blocked by the ball this triggers the switch. With your switch showing as 'always on' that means that the receiver isn't 'seeing' the transmitted light. This could either mean the transmitter is broken or the receiver is broken.

Can you see the red light on your transmitter? If not, then there's no power going to it or it's dead. Try the suggestions others have made of unplugging and replugging the connectors that lead from these two optos to the board under the playfield. If you can see the red light shining then in addition to this try cleaning the transmitter and receiver lenses.

The other thing to take note of is if when you unplug and reconnect the little white opto connectors on this board, if the associated indicator LED on this board turns on or off or flickers. This will tell you if the dodgy connection is here or not. If the LED never triggers when you do this then the problem is likely the opto itself.

Have a look at the wires leading to the optos themselves, above the playfield to see if they're broken. Sometimes even if they're not visibly broken the solder joints can be broken so you can 'reflow' the solder joints to fix this (I had to do this to fix my Idol opto, which is the same setup as the Shrunken Head).

Luckily you don't have to disassemble much to reach these optos. Simply remove the Shrunken Head by prying it's neck collar off the tabs on its bracket and you can access the lock nuts and screw heads that hold the plastics. The plastic on the left hand side (transmitter) is under the temple ramp so you'll need to use a very short screwdriver or — what I did — and use a 1/4" screw driver bit with a 1/4" spanner to loosen it then do the rest by hand. With the plastics off you can easily access the two screws that hold each opto unit in place. Take them out and check the wires and reflow the solder and replug them back in to see if you're back in business.

#8 5 years ago

Good news guys, I unplugged the connectors a few times and plugged them back into the board....IT WORKED! LTG got it. Thanks everyone

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from accidental:

I had this same issue with mine just last week. It turned out to be a broken wire on the opto transmitter (the one shining the red light).
The way this switch works is that the receiver expects to see this red light from the transmitter at all times. When the light path is blocked by the ball this triggers the switch. With your switch showing as 'always on' that means that the receiver isn't 'seeing' the transmitted light. This could either mean the transmitter is broken or the receiver is broken.
Can you see the red light on your transmitter? If not, then there's no power going to it or it's dead. Try the suggestions others have made of unplugging and replugging the connectors that lead from these two optos to the board under the playfield. If you can see the red light shining then in addition to this try cleaning the transmitter and receiver lenses.
The other thing to take note of is if when you unplug and reconnect the little white opto connectors on this board, if the associated indicator LED on this board turns on or off or flickers. This will tell you if the dodgy connection is here or not. If the LED never triggers when you do this then the problem is likely the opto itself.
Have a look at the wires leading to the optos themselves, above the playfield to see if they're broken. Sometimes even if they're not visibly broken the solder joints can be broken so you can 'reflow' the solder joints to fix this (I had to do this to fix my Idol opto, which is the same setup as the Shrunken Head).
Luckily you don't have to disassemble much to reach these optos. Simply remove the Shrunken Head by prying it's neck collar off the tabs on its bracket and you can access the lock nuts and screw heads that hold the plastics. The plastic on the left hand side (transmitter) is under the temple ramp so you'll need to use a very short screwdriver or — what I did — and use a 1/4" screw driver bit with a 1/4" spanner to loosen it then do the rest by hand. With the plastics off you can easily access the two screws that hold each opto unit in place. Take them out and check the wires and reflow the solder and replug them back in to see if you're back in business.

Also want to thank you man for this detailed post, even though I didn't need to go as far as removing the head and stuff, I really appreciate it You guys on here are so rad!

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