(Topic ID: 330395)

Rayovac battery warning

By gdonovan

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 58 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by gdonovan
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    soic28_to_dip28.jpg
    ram (resized).jpg
    leaky (resized).jpg
    20230113_172315 (resized).jpg
    still-going-energizer-bunny.gif
    20230131_072834 (resized).jpg
    20230131_072516 (resized).jpg
    20230131_072547 (resized).jpg
    There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    16
    #1 1 year ago

    I buy hundreds of batteries each month for work in a medical facility, I have never see a battery leak faster than a Rayovac.

    If you have them in a machine I would remove them at once, I have seen them start puking in TV remotes in as little as a few months.

    As you can see here one package was not even opened yet and is puking profusely. Both packs are dated "Good till Nov 2026"

    20230131_072516 (resized).jpg20230131_072516 (resized).jpg

    20230131_072547 (resized).jpg20230131_072547 (resized).jpg
    #2 1 year ago

    Yep!

    I put red Rayovac Fusion batteries into my Schlage smart lock and within months they leaked. They were brand new when installed.

    They have a good guarantee and promise to replace any equipment that is damaged by leakage:

    https://www.rayovac.com/warranties-and-guarantees/

    But yeah... I will probably never trust them again.

    #3 1 year ago

    Yikes. That's a lot of bad batteries. Are you checking born on or expiration dates? Alkalines have a ten year shelf life at best. Manufacture date is usually two number month and two or four number year. 0123 would be this month. Would be interesting to know how old those are.

    I went shopping for Energizer AA lithium's yesterday and was surprised how expensive they've become. Battery store wanted $80 for 20. Online is cheaper, but still over $2 a battery. I'm considering trying non-Energizer lithium's.

    #4 1 year ago

    Yeah... I've seen this with these too.

    Lately it seems the cheaper, more off-brand junk which come with remotes, etc... never seem to leak, and last forever. But what you would think are trusted brands, are the junk.

    #5 1 year ago

    So far, I've never had an issue with the copper top brand.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    So far, I've never had an issue with the copper top brand.

    Sadly I have…not more than 3x but it did happen.

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    So far, I've never had an issue with the copper top brand.

    I have.

    As someone pointed, batteries that ship with remotes and other devices seem to last with leaking.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from phishrace:

    Yikes. That's a lot of bad batteries. Are you checking born on or expiration dates? Alkalines have a ten year shelf life at best. Manufacture date is usually two number month and two or four number year. 0123 would be this month. Would be interesting to know how old those are.
    I went shopping for Energizer AA lithium's yesterday and was surprised how expensive they've become. Battery store wanted $80 for 20. Online is cheaper, but still over $2 a battery. I'm considering trying non-Energizer lithium's.

    They were purchased from Lowe's, 2018.

    Picture attached of date stamp

    20230131_072834 (resized).jpg20230131_072834 (resized).jpg
    #9 1 year ago
    still-going-energizer-bunny.gifstill-going-energizer-bunny.gif
    #10 1 year ago

    So far all the major brand names I have used puke sooner or later. Rayovac is the worse followed by Duracell and then Energizer.

    Panasonic is the only brand I have not had a single failure along with a bunch of off Asia brands that come with random remotes.

    Rayovac has already approved the claim and is going to issue a check for battery replacement.

    #11 1 year ago

    I use Energizer Lithium only. In everything. They dont leak.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:

    I use Energizer Lithium only.

    Me too ... or NVRAM...

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from transprtr4u:

    Me too ... or NVRAM...

    Yeah! NVRAM is in my White Star games.
    I don’t think I have any games at the moment that need AA batteries.
    SAM has watch batteries that might be an issue soon

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:

    I use Energizer Lithium only. In everything. They dont leak.

    Possible, everything I purchase batteries for is just alkaline.

    Almost every pin I own has NVRAM, really dislike batteries on a board.

    #15 1 year ago

    Energizer lithium is the best battery I've come across. They may be a little more money but they last a really long time and they don't leak. My Nest door lock runs on these batteries and is used everyday. I can't remember the last time I've had to change them. Same with my game cam. Of course in pinball NVRAM is the way to go.

    #16 1 year ago

    I don't use batteries in pins, but for other things that need batteries, I just use rayovac ultra pro batteries simply because they have higher energy capacity than anything else.

    The ultra pro AA's have 2750 mAh vs the high energy AA's that have 750 mAh.

    https://batterystory.com/rayovac-ultra-pro-vs-high-energy/

    The last time I looked into battery comparison tests, those ultra pros far exceeded the top batteries from Energizer and Duracell.

    I've had rayovac, energizer, and duracell AA's all leak on me well before the expiration date, so I'm not sure there's much difference between them in that regard.

    I haven't made the leap to use lithium AA/AAA since they are a bit more expensive.

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I've had rayovac, energizer, and duracell AA's all leak on me well before the expiration date, so I'm not sure there's much difference between them in that regard.

    Energizer lithium?

    #19 1 year ago

    Alkaline suck.
    Lithium is the way to go!

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:

    Alkaline suck.
    Lithium is the way to go!

    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I haven't made the leap to use lithium AA/AAA since they are a bit more expensive.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    The ultra pro AA's have 2750 mAh vs the high energy AA's that have 750 mAh.

    Rayovac data sheets say they are both about 2600 mAh (with intermittent 100 mA load).

    https://www.rayovac.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Alkaline-RAYOVAC%C2%AE-ULTRA-PRO%E2%84%A2-AA.pdf
    https://www.rayovac.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Alkaline-High-Energy-AA-2020.pdf

    Also both have same stock #, 815 / 815 OEM. They seem to be identical batteries with different label only.

    #22 1 year ago

    It sucks having to go back to batteries again. I miss the days of 15.00 or less nvrams readily available.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballplusMN:

    It sucks having to go back to batteries again. I miss the days of 15.00 or less nvrams readily available.

    Remote battery holders for the win in that case.

    The lithium batteries seem to be good alternative, never heard of one puking so far.

    #24 1 year ago

    lithiums are more money yes, but they last way longer and they don't leak. What's the downside? A couple/few bucks for performance and piece of mind...sounds like a no brainer.

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from JBtheAVguy:

    lithiums are more money yes, but they last way longer and they don't leak. What's the downside? A couple/few bucks for performance and piece of mind...sounds like a no brainer.

    Totally agree. If you must use on board batteries these are the ONLY way to go. The risk is not worth it with the traditional batteries.

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from Only_Pinball:

    Totally agree. If you must use on board batteries these are the ONLY way to go. The risk is not worth it with the traditional batteries.

    I have seen original decades old Panasonic batteries not puke, this is a more recent phenomenon. Duracell once had an excellent reputation, not so much now.

    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Rayovac data sheets say they are both about 2600 mAh (with intermittent 100 mA load).
    https://www.rayovac.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Alkaline-RAYOVAC%C2%AE-ULTRA-PRO%E2%84%A2-AA.pdf
    https://www.rayovac.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Alkaline-High-Energy-AA-2020.pdf
    Also both have same stock #, 815 / 815 OEM. They seem to be identical batteries with different label only.

    Huh, that's interesting. Good to know.

    #28 1 year ago

    I had this same exact problem with my Rayovac AA's. I put them in my clocks and they all started leaking only after a couple months. I checked the packaging where I still had a bunch that were new and unused, and they were starting to leak too! I threw them all out. There must have been a bad batch.

    #29 1 year ago

    I've been using Energizer Lithiums for years in my games. I trust them enough to not leak, last longer, and they're cheaper than NVRAM and don't come with risks associated with desoldering the old RAM chip.

    That said, I've been trying to transition my "everyday" battery needs over to Panasonic Eneloop Cells. They're rechargeable up to 2,100 times, made in Japan, and have a stellar reputation. You can get pro cells that have 2500 mAh for high drain applications. Good stuff.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    I've been using Energizer Lithiums for years in my games. I trust them enough to not leak, last longer, and they're cheaper than NVRAM and don't come with risks associated with desoldering the old RAM chip.

    The vast majority of titles I own the ram is already socketed so easy peasy.

    The ones that are not? That's why I have a desoldering station.

    So far Panasonic seems to be the gold standard for alkaline batteries now, I'd feel comfortable with installing them in a pin that is here for short term evaluation.

    #31 1 year ago

    So…I’ve read to change batteries every year. Ive also heard that energizer Li’s are a good bet against leaking.

    They ain’t cheap for a medium-to-large collection. Relative to rest of hobby, yeah they’re relatively inexpensive, but still I don’t like to overspend when I don’t need to. So, is it still recommended to swap the Energizer Li’s on an annual basis…or is it safe to leave them in until they lose their charge?

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from curban:

    So, is it still recommended to swap the Energizer Li’s on an annual basis…or is it safe to leave them in until they lose their charge?

    I use Lithiums, and I change 'em out twice a year. Hold-over from having alkalines. But... *shrug* The cost is negligible for me, and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

    #33 1 year ago

    Does anyone know who makes the Kirkland batteries for Costco? Have had terrible luck with those. Was pretty hard to turn down the bulk packs for cheap when I first started going there a few years ago but I've noticed nearly every single one in every application I've used them in, leaks. Finally quit buying them and went to Duracell - cuz bulk pack at Costco, oops - but now having second thoughts there.

    I NVRAM'd most of my games out of habit, but since that well has gone dry I have a few stragglers & new acquisitions that are too easy to overlook. Even remote holders aren't 100% failsafe if the leakage tracks up the wire... although that would be an extreme scenario, I think.

    #34 1 year ago

    I always convert to a coin cell battery with a holder. Just did this system 1 not long ago. There is a blocking diode on the back and the original trace to the resistor was removed during corrosion cleanup.

    20230113_172315 (resized).jpg20230113_172315 (resized).jpg
    #35 1 year ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I have seen original decades old Panasonic batteries not puke, this is a more recent phenomenon. Duracell once had an excellent reputation, not so much now.

    Last time I checked (a year or two ago), Duracell had a crappy warranty for items that were damaged due to leakage, Energizer was at least somewhat better.

    I'm tempted to get some AA rechargeable lithium's to play around with, usually 4 for ~$20. Not for the any pin memory tho, more for remotes or smart home stuff. Not sure about the self-discharge rate.

    #36 1 year ago

    I prefer NVRAM, but if that's too expensive of an option for large collections, why not memory caps instead of any kind of battery?

    #37 1 year ago

    For NVRAM, the cheapest way is to make your own module. This requires:

    • FRAM = Infineon Technologies (formerly Cypress Semiconductor formerly Ramtron) FM16W08 (either tube or tape/reel). This will be SOIC-28 as the DIP-28 is no longer manufactured.
    • Adapter board for SOIC-28 6264 pinout to either DIP-28 6264 pinout or DIP-24 6116 pinout or DIP-22 5101 pinout.
    • Male header pins.
    • Ability to solder the SOIC-28 (surface mount). You can use an iron or "bake" the board with paste.

    To acquire the items:

    • The FM16W08 is (currently as of posting) in stock at the major big box merchants (Arrow, Digikey, Mouser and Newark). I am sure there are other merchants that will likely have it in stock as well.
    • For the adapter board search for "SOIC-28 to DIP-28 adapter". A few options appear to pop up.
    • Male machine pin headers are readily available.

    For a little bit of your own labor, you can put one together for about $10 (not counting potential shipping charges from various merchants).

    #38 1 year ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    For NVRAM, the cheapest way is to make your own module. This requires:

    FRAM = Infineon Technologies (formerly Cypress Semiconductor formerly Ramtron) FM16W08 (either tube or tape/reel). This will be SOIC-28 as the DIP-28 is no longer manufactured.
    Adapter board for SOIC-28 6264 pinout to either DIP-28 6264 pinout or DIP-24 6116 pinout or DIP-22 5101 pinout.
    Male header pins.
    Ability to solder the SOIC-28 (surface mount). You can use an iron or "bake" the board with paste.

    To acquire the items:

    The FM16W08 is (currently as of posting) in stock at the major big box merchants (Arrow, Digikey, Mouser and Newark). I am sure there are other merchants that will likely have it in stock as well.
    For the adapter board search for "SOIC-28 to DIP-28 adapter". A few options appear to pop up.
    Male machine pin headers are readily available.

    For a little bit of your own labor, you can put one together for about $10 (not counting potential shipping charges from various merchants).

    Following what Victor outlined here, I've been able to recently convert 20 of my games to nvram for around $12 each (after multiple shipments since I didn't decide to do them all at once). I think I had three machines that I couldn't find a diy nvram solution for so I purchased premade ones for the going rate from pinitech. Glad I made the switch, and I should have done it sooner.

    #39 1 year ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    For NVRAM, the cheapest way is to make your own module. This requires: .... you can put one together for about $10

    Is that really the whole thing? FRAM chip, interface board, and male pin header?

    For Gottlieb System 80... I guess I should just take a closer look at the one I already have and using.

    #40 1 year ago

    Energizer lithium's
    I pick them up at Sam's club.

    #41 1 year ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    Is that really the whole thing? FRAM chip, interface board, and male pin header?
    For Gottlieb System 80... I guess I should just take a closer look at the one I already have and using.

    Sorry. I should have clarified. I made an (incorrect) assumption that people deal with Williams machines. That is a bias based on my experience. Apologies.

    • For 6264 and 62256 compatibility, that's all you need. The adapter board is a straight shot pin to pin. The pinouts are identical.
    • For 6116 compatibility, you will need something that performs signal compatibility (routing). The ~WE signal in the FRAM is pin 27. The ~WE signal for 6116 is pin 21. The FRAM is 28 pins. The 6116 is 24 pins.
    • For 5101 compatibility, you will need even more signal routing and possible munging. I only made a board that is compatible with Williams System 3-7 boards as far as testing goes. I have a report (from @gutz) that this board does not work with Gottlieb and it probably won't work with Bally. I don't have any experience with those systems so I can't say anything definitive for them.

    The SOIC-28 to DIP-28 adapter is available online from various merchants if you search. A SOIC-28 to DIP-24 adapter that routes the ~WE signal (as well as fixes A11/A12) might be possible to obtain but I haven't searched for them. I just made my own.

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    For 5101 compatibility, you will need even more signal routing and possible munging.

    My Gottlieb is 5101, and now I do recall more parts mounted on the NVRAM board along with the chip.

    I'll have to see if it's worthwhile sourcing the parts and building one for my next Gottlieb.

    #43 1 year ago

    I'm done with alkaline batteries, all the current brands suck. Rayovac, Duracell, Costco, Energizer you name it. I've had too many things ruined from battery leakage. Any pinball machines I have that take AA's I use Energizer Lithium batteries because I don't have to worry about them leaking. My classic Bally and Sterns I convert to coin cell batteries. As for all my remotes, game controllers and flashlights I use rechargeable batteries, because they don't leak. I was using Sanyo Eneloop's which are made in Japan with very good luck, but recently I bought some rechargeable batteries from Ikea and I have been really impressed with them and they too are made in Japan. They are also very reasonably priced and are available in AA and AAA.

    A friend of mine says for pinball machines he uses the Heavy Duty AA batteries and claims they don't leak like alkaline batteries.

    #44 1 year ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    I always convert to a coin cell battery with a holder. Just did this system 1 not long ago. There is a blocking diode on the back and the original trace to the resistor was removed during corrosion cleanup.
    [quoted image]

    I recently had a (Energizer or Duracell, I forget which) coin cell battery leak after only 3 years in a fairly expensive auto darkening welding helmet. I didn't know they leaked; had never seen one until then. I wasn't happy.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from Emkay79:

    I recently had a (Energizer or Duracell, I forget which) coin cell battery leak after only 3 years in a fairly expensive auto darkening welding helmet. I didn't know they leaked; had never seen one until then. I wasn't happy.

    I've never seen a lithium leak, but it seems that the generic manufacturers are lasting longer than the big names, all around.

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    So far, I've never had an issue with the copper top brand.

    I've had plenty. To make the matter worse, they usually start leaking long before going dead.

    #47 1 year ago
    Quoted from Emkay79:

    I recently had a (Energizer or Duracell, I forget which) coin cell battery leak after only 3 years in a fairly expensive auto darkening welding helmet. I didn't know they leaked; had never seen one until then. I wasn't happy.

    At home I pull the battery from every piece of equipment aside from 2 or 3 meters. Not saying its possible but for some reason the 9v batteries never seem to leak.

    #48 1 year ago

    Wal-mart car batteries are also terrible and will leak onto your terminals and maybe down the side and into the battery compartment.

    #49 1 year ago
    Quoted from balzofsteel:

    I've had plenty. To make the matter worse, they usually start leaking long before going dead.

    Funny you say that...just looked on my shelf and saw this Duracell. It still shows over 1.5v.
    leaky (resized).jpgleaky (resized).jpg

    #50 1 year ago
    Quoted from Emkay79:

    Funny you say that...just looked on my shelf and saw this Duracell. It still shows over 1.5v.
    [quoted image]

    Just for giggles seal it up in a jar and see what it looks like in March 2028 .

    There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.