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(Topic ID: 162784)

Raven: System 80B driver board FIRE! Repairable?


By Geocab

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Geocab
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Well crap. Is it possible for a lamp socket to burn up a transistor?

On my Raven driver board, Q21 caught on fire. It looks like at minimum Q21, Q22, R21, and R22 are destroyed. Q21 controls the light by the front right sniper drop target.

I had two pop bumpers not working, one was just a switch that was misadjusted, but the other was a bad fuse which I replaced. It seemed to work properly with the new fuse, and I didn't notice anything locking on. I know the pops have their own boards, but could the pop bumper have somehow caused this fire anyway?

I also adjusted the flipper EOS, and replaced some burnt out lamps (not the sniper light). These are they only things I have done on this machine. It was running in attract mode when I started to smell an electric fire, I turned the game off as soon as I noticed. But obviously too late. Is this board repairable? How do I clean up the black so I can see the damage?

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#2 4 years ago

Use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush to clean off all the soot so that you can see what is actually burnt.

#3 4 years ago

Looking at the bottom it shouldn't be that bad. Will just need a few leads bent to near traces if any traces were lost

#4 4 years ago

Ouch.

#5 4 years ago

Thanks guys. I'll get some alcohol on the way home from work today.

It seems strange to me that a lamp out socket could cause this?

#6 4 years ago

Mine looks worse and it's working. Premier Rock.
Damage was already there when I got it, no idea what caused it.

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#7 4 years ago

You won't be able to clean off all the black residue, because the board is burnt. Be sure to check for shorts between the traces on the burnt parts, because it can get conductive. Also check the resistance on the affected traces to see if they are still good.

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Mine looks worse and it's working. Premier Rock.
Damage was already there when I got it, no idea what caused it.

Where is Q16?

#8 4 years ago

Yes it is repairable. Send it out to one of the board repair guys so it is done properly--all of the burnt (now conductive) areas need to be removed and the board rebuilt with epoxy. As Ken said clean it up with alcohol and you'll have a better idea what you have going on.

#9 4 years ago

It's nice to see someone trying to save something for once. I cringe when people are selling stuff and they think it's a feature that the game has all new boards.

#10 4 years ago

I'm just wondering why this happened? Simply age of the parts? The light was lighting up fine when the sniper popped up during play and I haven't touched that socket. I know stuff goes bad, a lot of heat, wear and tear, for 30 year old components, but I want to be sure so when repaired, the same thing doesn't happen again.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I'm just wondering why this happened?

There's an old saying in electronics:

"Any component can fail at any time for any reason"

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

There's an old saying in electronics:
"Any component can fail at any time for any reason"

Nice.

#13 4 years ago

RIP driver board transistors. I'll dump out a little of my bubbly in your honor.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Friengineer:

RIP driver board transistors. I'll dump out a little of my bubbly in your honor.

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#15 4 years ago

Cleaned up with a toothbrush and alcohol as suggested. It turned out better than I thought it would.

My board doesn't seem to be a stranger to being worked on. The CPU board has a lot of work on it from what I can tell too.

The red wire in the photo goes to the fluorescent tube, not a ground mod. Some of the ground mods were done, like the grounds in the cabinet.

If I removed Q22 and the two resistors before, could I safely put the board back in the game? I'd like to see if anything seems screwy besides the lights controlled by Q21 and Q22.

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#16 4 years ago

Yes. You can remove those parts and then install.
Something might be shorted. I'd trace the wire from driver board connector to the associated lamp socket.

Nice job cleaning up the soot.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#17 4 years ago

I see that someone applied a bunch of soldered to the edge connectors. They do that to improve connectivity with the female housings. I hate to see that, and I usually remove it and repin as necessary.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#18 4 years ago

I removed the components off the board. I then checked the pin that goes to the socket the with my DMM, one lead on the bolt where the grounds meet, and the other on the pin. I then proceeded to check every pin on that connector and the only pins that read continuity with the ground are grounds on the driver board.

I then plugged the driver board in and the game is back to functioning as it was before the transistor fried. Some things are intermittently working, but when I reseated the CPU to driver cable, things worked again. I'll have to check this cable out next.

Anyway, so far it seems like the damage was limited to those lamp transistors.

2 weeks later
#19 4 years ago

That red wire should not go to the tube, no way no how.
Maybe it goes to the ground near the tube ?
Horrible hack lol.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from quattrohead:That red wire should not go to the tube, no way no how.
Maybe it goes to the ground near the tube ?
Horrible hack lol.

I never took a great look at it, it may go to the screw that the tube's tombstone is attached to for a ground. I'll have to check it out.

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