(Topic ID: 51647)

Raven !!!Members Only!!!


By VisitorQ

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 339 posts
  • 83 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 days ago by noflip95
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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There are 339 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#302 1 year ago

Which eprom do I need for burning the freeplay roms on to?

1 month later
#303 11 months ago
Quoted from Aladdin:

OK, my Raven works 99%. The feature sounds will come on (machine gun, targets sound) and then disappear during a game. The music and Helicopter sounds remain.
So what do y'all think? Cold Solder joint? Connector?
The gound mods to the transformer housing have been done, but no other ground mods.
Sometimes I have to toggle the game off and on to get her to boot up correctly.
So first is to check 5V supply, then add a light film of solder to the connector fingers on the board.
Otherwise, she plays great!

FIXED!!! I just needed to adjust the +5V Pot to get the voltage up from 4.5V at the MPU (I measured across the C1 capacitor at the top of the MPU board next to the J1 connector), it was showing 4.5V, so I adjusted the voltage pot to get a strong 5V

Boots up perfectly every time and the sound is now consistent.

#304 11 months ago

I'm the special kind of ass that cleacoats a Raven and repaints the cabinet. Just have some paint touch up and have to fix the pop bumper lights yet. Put a solid 40+ hours in over the last week.

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#305 11 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I'm the special kind of ass that cleacoats a Raven and repaints the cabinet. Just have some paint touch up and have to fix the pop bumper lights yet. Put a solid 40+ hours in over the last week.

Looks really nice... I would like to own a Raven... Sadly I think they're getting hard to come by... Not looking to over pay though. It have to be around 1k. But, your's looks really nice. Nice translite, as most of those are really faded.

#306 11 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I'm the special kind of ass that cleacoats a Raven and repaints the cabinet. Just have some paint touch up and have to fix the pop bumper lights yet. Put a solid 40+ hours in over the last week.

Your not the only one. I CC'D an N.O.S pf and put the crosshair target faces on it.

#307 11 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I'm the special kind of ass that cleacoats a Raven and repaints the cabinet. Just have some paint touch up and have to fix the pop bumper lights yet. Put a solid 40+ hours in over the last week.

looks great and the GI's are done correctly. Looks awesome and playable. Great work.

#308 11 months ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

Looks really nice... I would like to own a Raven... Sadly I think they're getting hard to come by... Not looking to over pay though. It have to be around 1k. But, your's looks really nice. Nice translite, as most of those are really faded.

Thanks, and there was not a single Raven at Allentown this weekend. There were hardly any 80b's whatsoever. I am guessing they are getting snatched up as affordable entry level machines these days.

#309 11 months ago

Also of note, I have the mold made to reproduce the ramp for Raven. Hopefully I will be able to get to trying to make this in June.

#310 11 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Also of note, I have the mold made to reproduce the ramp for Raven. Hopefully I will be able to get to trying to make this in June.

Cool - mine's broken & cloudy. Are you planning on selling them? I've got some polycarbonate & was going to make my own.

#311 11 months ago

Hi all, new Raven owner here... I’m looking for a replacement translite. Does anyone have an original for sale or a hi-res original image? Thanks!

1 week later
#312 11 months ago

Just playing around with the glow in the dark paint on my Ramp

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2 months later
#313 9 months ago

Hello all. First time poster but TWENTY FIVE YEAR Raven owner! (Does that make me like president of this thread or anything?!)

I love the challenge, the 80’s-ness, and the relative simplicity without being boring of this machine. I got it when I was 12 or so and don’t really have any plans to get rid of it.

It has needed some boards and minor other work over the years, but lately it has been in great shape and performing awesome.

Right now, I have one question related to the only main thing I really notice is “wrong” with it. My snipers all pop up at the start of the game and then go down, as they are supposed to. However, the one in the back, up under the ramp, kills himself instantly after he is activated. While this is nice for getting points and progressing towards the extra ball, it isn’t exactly right.

I’ve looked under the playing field and the mechanics of the snipers looks fairly intimidating. Does this sound like a pretty clear cut issue, with my sniper not staying up until he’s actually hit? I wonder if it more of a physical adjustment kind of thing rather than an electrical problem. If I understand how they work correctly, it is a little plastic “lip” that rests on a catch, and when the ball hits the sniper, it pushes it back enough to release that lip off the ledge and it retracts back down.

Thanks

#314 9 months ago

Hey all! Just got a Raven and i'm looking for some documentation help. Specifically i need fuse assignments, etc. PM me if you can help. Thanks!

#315 9 months ago
Quoted from zimjoe:

Have you done the ground mods? I know it's a noob question, but sooo important.
Beyond that is the 5v adjusted correctly? I have found that to be a big contributor to problems with my 80b games. Both Genesis and Victory were adjusted wrong when I got them.
The pinwiki has a great guide for checking this. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#System_80B_Power_Supplies
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board
The dead displays might be the display itself. The way those are mounted makes for a weak point between the board and the display glass. My Victory came with a dead display and when I pushed on the glass it would come on. It took a little solder to fix.
Here is a pinwiki article on the displays, but just getting the power right is a good place to start.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#System_80B_2
Smarter people than I will jump in if you create a topic in the Solid State tech forum. Just be prepared to answer questions

Quoting this to mark the links--working on a Gold Wings, so this System 80B stuff probably also applies. I'd like to see a Raven in person. Looks underrated, but like all pin related things seems to taken a price hit. alan_l How was your experience with John's Jukes with the ROMs?

#316 9 months ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Hello all. First time poster but TWENTY FIVE YEAR Raven owner! (Does that make me like president of this thread or anything?!)
I love the challenge, the 80’s-ness, and the relative simplicity without being boring of this machine. I got it when I was 12 or so and don’t really have any plans to get rid of it.
It has needed some boards and minor other work over the years, but lately it has been in great shape and performing awesome.
Right now, I have one question related to the only main thing I really notice is “wrong” with it. My snipers all pop up at the start of the game and then go down, as they are supposed to. However, the one in the back, up under the ramp, kills himself instantly after he is activated. While this is nice for getting points and progressing towards the extra ball, it isn’t exactly right.
I’ve looked under the playing field and the mechanics of the snipers looks fairly intimidating. Does this sound like a pretty clear cut issue, with my sniper not staying up until he’s actually hit? I wonder if it more of a physical adjustment kind of thing rather than an electrical problem. If I understand how they work correctly, it is a little plastic “lip” that rests on a catch, and when the ball hits the sniper, it pushes it back enough to release that lip off the ledge and it retracts back down.
Thanks

unfortunately i dont know the answer to your question. But in response to your 25+ year owner i got a good laugh and it very well might. lol However your problem sounds like a physical switch adjustment.

#317 9 months ago
Quoted from vaevictis:

Quoting this to mark the links--working on a Gold Wings, so this System 80B stuff probably also applies. I'd like to see a Raven in person. Looks underrated, but like all pin related things seems to taken a price hit. alan_l How was your experience with John's Jukes with the ROMs?

I'm not terribly far from you... You are welcome to come check mine out if you get here before someone buys it. At this rate, I'll still be selling it at York! I also just finished redoing my Gold Wings... That one is bolted to the floor though.

#318 9 months ago

Question here for Raven owners (also asked at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-raven-drop-target-trip-coils): should the drop target "trip" coils be continuously energized when the targets are down?

I feel like after some thought and reading https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gtb-raven-help-needed#post-4404605 that the targets are supposed to be up in attract mode (mine pop up and immediately go down) and that the "trip" coils should not be continuously energized. If thats the case then, since all 4 exhibit this behavior i would suspect Z4 on the driver is bad, since it controls L12, L13, L14 and L15, the four drivers for the coils. I dont suspect the CPU because all other lights/coils/switches work fine.

Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!

2 weeks later
#319 8 months ago

Just joined the club! Picked her up yesterday from a wonderful lady's garage. Unplaced (or cleaned) for a couple of years. It was listed online for a few months here is rural Canada. It wasn't working so I haggled the price down.

There are a few surprises once I arrived to pick it up...

While inspecting the machine I noticed it had new coin slot micro switches, strange... Then all the ground modifications on the transformer were done... Then I inspected the boards... It had a button battery, jumper wire and daughter board mods complete... wow! That's when I noticed the TNT amusements sticker on the MPU board! WOW! Todd how did a machine get here of all places!?

I poked a few ground wires and boom, game booted right up working no problem. The woman was surprised but still sold it to me for the agreed upon price... Picked her up for $400 Canadian or $305 US!

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#320 8 months ago

The sticker is January 2015...I will have to see if I shipped any Raven games to Canada tomorrow when I go in. I cant tell if it has leds...we started using them in around 2013...I know our boards get moved around from game to game....Todd

#321 8 months ago

That’s funny. And what an absolute steal for a working (and improved) Raven!

#322 8 months ago

The previous owner said that her late husband and some friends picked up 3-4 machines at the same time... I've noticed 2 white GI LEDs and the rest are incandescent... strange... I'm not sure if it was from TNT or another vender but the machine is in wonderful shape! It is missing the 'Ultra-mega-super-important-TNT-sticker-of-justice (TM)' on the apron, which makes me wonder... I'm also shocked Todd saw this post...

#323 8 months ago

Hi All. After further inspection I've noticed the left spot targets aren't working and the left side (ramp) roll over. I've attached the schematic below which show the 'line' of which isn't working. I've checked the solders to the targets/switches which appear to be ok with no evidence of shorting.

I've also attached A1-J6 diagram the location the targets/rollover attach to the MPU board... I've jiggled the wire and unplugged/plugged it in a few times. It doesn't appear out of the ordinary but still no targets or rollover...

Any thoughts?

1 (resized).jpg2. Spot Roll Overs (resized).jpg3. A1-J6 (resized).jpg4. A1 Board (resized).jpg
1 month later
#324 6 months ago

The fix for above - The switches are all on "Return 1". It's 611 color wire at pin A1J6-11. Tested to see if I had good continuity back to A1. I did. Check at a board trace to eliminate edge connector as a concern. Edge connector was fine.

"Return 1" traces to chip Z13 pin 9 on the A1. That's a 7400. It was bad. Tried replacing the chip... didn't work... had to replace the board. Worked perfect.

#325 6 months ago

Hi! New to the club... does anybody have a copy of the ring placement chart?? I wanna order a custom set of titan silicone rings.... thanks!!

#326 6 months ago

Will be joining the nos clear coated raven club soon

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#327 6 months ago

Those of us that have clearcoated a Raven are probably among a very small, elite club.

#328 6 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Those of us that have clearcoated a Raven are probably among a very small, elite club.

Maybe we need a sub-club thread?

#329 6 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Those of us that have clearcoated a Raven are probably among a very small, elite club.

Getting bigger all the time. Count me in.

#330 6 months ago

Would anyone in the room have a RAVEN in French?

Usually, we see it when we go to the TEST menu and the texts are in French.

1 month later
#331 4 months ago

I made a bunch of mods for my raven and a new translite. I started a new thread call "Raven Sniper Squadron w/free mods" as Ive also posted most of the art for the mods in it. One of the best ones is a diverter on the ramp that looks like a helicopter. Go take a look!

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#333 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

I made a bunch of mods for my raven and a new translite.

Just amazing work! So many great ideas here. I recently bought my Raven back from a friend; lots of good stuff here to try out.

1 month later
#334 3 months ago

Hi, Raven owner here with an issue with my ramp (I've posted about this at the following link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-raven-ramp-issue#post-4765696). Currently my ramp stutters up and down irregularly and I can't seem to find out why. I'll summarise what happens. Also, the ramp was working previously, just randomly started doing this one day recently.

The ramp stutters up and down during gameplay. Before a game is started in attract mode it will occasionally go up and down but not nearly as frequently. The ramp will also not stay down when the top rollovers or the top targets are hit like it is suppose to. The ramp has stayed up in 2 scenarios. Once while I was in test mode doing the relay/solenoid test, and then it stayed up for the entire time I was in test mode (don't know if it is suppose to do this). Also, once when I got an extra ball for some reason. When the game starts flashing with the different music during extra ball, the ramp stayed in the upright position. I tried to repeat this as well but instead, the ramp stayed down the second time I tried. After the flashing is done for extra ball, the ramp goes back to stuttering up and down.

I feel like I've jumped about every connection up to the driver board from the ramp and I have replaced the playfield transistor and coil for the ramp. The EOS switch is fine. I've also swapped out the driver board with one that previously had the ramp working a couple months ago. If you guys have had a similar issue or know what could be the cause, please let me know, thanks!

Also, I am currently using a mypinballs MPU board and a Rottendog driver board.

At the moment I am leaning towards an issue with the MPU since the symptoms are very odd but I have no idea what would be wrong or how to figure out the issue if it is to do with the MPU board.

#335 3 months ago
Quoted from cperro:

Hi, Raven owner here with an issue with my ramp (I've posted about this at the following link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-raven-ramp-issue#post-4765696). Currently my ramp stutters up and down irregularly and I can't seem to find out why. I'll summarise what happens. Also, the ramp was working previously, just randomly started doing this one day recently.
The ramp stutters up and down during gameplay. Before a game is started in attract mode it will occasionally go up and down but not nearly as frequently. The ramp will also not stay down when the top rollovers or the top targets are hit like it is suppose to. The ramp has stayed up in 2 scenarios. Once while I was in test mode doing the relay/solenoid test, and then it stayed up for the entire time I was in test mode (don't know if it is suppose to do this). Also, once when I got an extra ball for some reason. When the game starts flashing with the different music during extra ball, the ramp stayed in the upright position. I tried to repeat this as well but instead, the ramp stayed down the second time I tried. After the flashing is done for extra ball, the ramp goes back to stuttering up and down.
I feel like I've jumped about every connection up to the driver board from the ramp and I have replaced the playfield transistor and coil for the ramp. The EOS switch is fine. I've also swapped out the driver board with one that previously had the ramp working a couple months ago. If you guys have had a similar issue or know what could be the cause, please let me know, thanks!
Also, I am currently using a mypinballs MPU board and a Rottendog driver board.
At the moment I am leaning towards an issue with the MPU since the symptoms are very odd but I have no idea what would be wrong or how to figure out the issue if it is to do with the MPU board.

How about the cable that connects the driver board to the playfield? I've had some bad pins show up on 80b games sometimes.

#336 3 months ago

Thanks for the reply @JodyG. I think the cable that connects to the playfield has a good connection, I checked the resistance between driver board pin and the nearest playfield part schematically and it was less than 1 ohm. Besides that would you recommend another way to check the connection?

1 week later
#337 3 months ago

I saw one post earlier here- but does anyone know why all lights in my pop bumpers would go out at once? I checked sockets, obvious wiring shorts, replaced bulbs - testing + and - leads on each bulb socket shows continuity. No voltage during game play. Wasn't always like this, only started once I replaced one bulb, lower right bumper.

After I replaced the bulb, all went dark - replaced socket, still no go.

I'm assuming that I have a short, as I've been unable to find the schematic page clear enough to read. Any ideas?

2 weeks later
#338 80 days ago

Hello I have been going through my raven machine and need a picture of the wiring on the diode board located under the playfield. someone has done some work to this area and I dont think the wiring is correct and there are two wires that aren't connected. A picture of this board in the game would be very helpful.

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1 month later
#339 28 days ago

Hello,

I do not have a Raven on hand to take a picture, but I know exactly how to connect this board.
This is not a plate with diodes, but a small board with resistors, physically located between the four bumpers and slightly curved shape.

It contains the polarization resistors of the transistors mounted under the playfield, as well as the resistors for the two flash lamps (and also a resistor for the scrolling lamps ~ driven by the auxiliary lamp driver).
This board has nothing to do with the contact matrix, and with other small boards with diodes.

This board is powered by 24 volts (common wire - 222 - red/red/red) that is seen at the top of the photo.

On the other hand, for departures having two wires (the three resistors on the right of the photo) (colors 144, 644 and 633 - brown/yellow/yellow, blue/yellow/yellow and blue/orange/orange) goes to polarise the base of the transistor, and use small resistors 1/4 W 4.7 K. Look like OK on your board.
They are R1, R2 and R3 on the schematic.

The two middle departures, with a single wire, go to flashlights. Wires are 077 and 088 (black/purple/purple and black/gray/gray).
There is something wrong here : resistors should be BIG ! because they are 5 W - 8 ohms ... and someone replace them by small 1/4 W 4.7 K !!!
For sure, flashlights works badly or not at all, with a such value. But may be, the lamps have been replace by LED ??? check that, but for sure, this mount is not standard.
They are R4 and R5 on the schematic.

For the last wires on the left, there is obviously an error. The color 311 (orange/brown/brown) indicates that it is the wire controlling the two groups of lamps, but supplied with 6 V DC.
There should be there a big resistance 5 W - 0.33 ohms and it should be connected to 6 V and not to 24 V.
It is R6 on the schematic.

  • We can find all this information on the diagram
  • 2019-03-27_08h34_37 (resized).png

  • the components are even mentioned in a small box (R1, R2, R3 - R4, R5 - R6)

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