If I could get one cheap, I'd buy it. Of course depending on condition.

touché ...

Raven RULES !

I've got one that I will do an NOS playfield changeover on this summer. It has a really nice cabinet and an NOS trans light and I picked up all the nos parts I could get for the playfield from PBR. Should turn out really nice.

Mine has issues. Powers up but won't boot and has no displays. I checked all the fuses and almost all of them were over fused. Going to address that before moving forward

What a great game, cool sfx and music like a nintendo game and a real shooters table, 4 pop up snipers with lots of targets I just don't see how this pin isn't more popular but if that allows me to pick it up for next to nothing then I'm all for it, I put a 7 LED red strip under the chopper and not only does it glow nicely the effect when the blades spin is amazing, highly recommend it.

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Thanks for the LED strip suggestion. I'll have to do that to my Raven....looks nice. Did you just connect to the GI? or did you have to install an additional lamp socket?

I agree...I think Raven is a fun game.

that's really funny i just had a friend over a few hours ago and said he loved the nintendo style music on Raven. I have mine hooked up to a polk powered sub and it jams hard.

I had the far right yellow spot target lamp L47 stuck on. transistor Q48 was bad on the driver board. it's a MPS-U45 and i don't have any in stock, but noticed on the schematics that Q49, Q50, and Q51 aren't used on this game so we have 3 spares on the driver board if you ever need them.

The led strips from Comet use alligator clips for direct hook up to the GI but for now I used the 44 adapter and the furthest top left light under the plastic. Going to add alot more, I'll post some pics. Every now and then the game resets during play time, I don't think its the slam tilt, any idea's? I can have 10 games without it happening or more so I can't figure it out. Anyone seen this alt translite? might have to order it although I like the chick, put red elec tape on the flu bulb and it seems to bring out the color on a faded translite.

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I have the chick translite on order.

first thing i'd do is tie together the two wires on the doors slam switch and do all the ground mods.
https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html

Has anyone rethemed this to Rambo yet? I wouldn't imagine it to be that hard.

I would retheme it as NES Contra or Airwolf.

Mine did the same so I unplugged the reset board in the top right of the back box.

Here's a link to my thread about the translate I made at work. I just printed it on bond paper, but they do promotional stuff here, so I'm going to see if they'll print it on mylar. Could really use a suitable hi-res photo of a girl with a machine gun though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-raven-translite-pop-bumper-clock

I got my Raven running and had it at the Houston Arcade Expo last year. It was in the tournament area and the consensus was that it was thoroughly. The trick is to adjust the EOS switches so the flipper is barely strong enough to make the ramp. That way, it's not too easy a game. I never could get the game music to work, though. My wife finally couldn't stand it in the house any longer because she hated the translate. I sent her to live at the local pinball museum so I can visit whenever I want. I would buy another in a heartbeat, if only to play it a little while and resell it. Fun game and my only beef was it needed one more toy/gimmick/multiball or something to make it stand out a little more. I grew up in the 80's, the girl on the backbos doesn't bother me one bit.

reset is likely the adjustable 5 volt pot if the machine has had the ground mods.

Anyone selling?
I'm buying
Not kidding.

I am looking for a little help on this pinball. I am new to this forum, but not to another. I figured I should join this one since I seem to be buying more pins lately. But anyway I just picked one of these up just the other day. The machine worked great at the guys house I bought it from. When I got home I unloaded it in my basement and the next day I looked it over to make sure everything was good before I turned it on, which everything did. So when I turned it on everything was working great. A little later I went to turn it on and play it and noticed the #67 lamp on right side was staying lit and not going out. Everything else seemed to be fine. So I did the ground mod to power supply chassis and that did not rectify problem either. The left side #67 works as it should and does the strobe light affect. I know it does not appear to be the leaf switch either, as when I touch it the explosion sound works but the light still stays on bright. Any Ideas where or what to check? I am not real familiar with the System 80b pins. Any help would be appreciated.

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That is a flasher bulb and it's locked on. Two things I would check right off the bat. First, I'd lift the playfield and look at the wires connected to the socket. Make sure nothing is shorting across them. The n still step would be to check the drive transistor of that flasher. You'll need the manual and a multimeter.

Thanks for the information. Nothing is shorting the socket. I noticed the aux lamp driver board had been damaged badly on one of the transistors and been repaired. bad enough it actually burned all the way through the board, but everything checked ok there. So I went to the driver board and it looks like Q56 transistor is bad. Does that sound like the probable cause to you?

I recently picked up a Raven playfield printed on cardboard, signed by pinball's best close to 20 years ago ... John Trudeau!

Do I qualify for membership?!?

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I don't have the Raven manual anymore to be able to tell you if that's the transistor that controls e locked on flasher bulb. Maybe a current owner will see this and chime in. My first suspicion, though, would be the area that had previous repair. I'd make sure to remove the board and check all transistors and also for shorts due to poor solder and such.

Okay, if I'm reading the schematics correctly, the playboard solenoids & illumination schematic says that bulb #67 right is driven by A3J6 from the master driver board A3, & is labeled solenoid number 7. A3J6 on the master driver board schematic has solenoid 7 using Q56, so that sounds like it's the problem.

Hey guys, great thread... If anyone can help me with a Raven sound issue - I am fixing one up and I can't get the main background sounds to work. Sound effects sound good (compared to YouTube gameplay videos) and I've been very thoroughly going through the sound repair guides to make sure all the signals are good from the MPU to the driver board to the sound board. I've even gone as far as taking the game and sound roms out and installing them in a fully working Hollywood Heat and I get the EXACT same result... no background music. I suspect a problem with the sound ROMs - the ones I have and the ones I can find on the net (from VP forums) seem to be the same checksums...

I have reburned the game and sound ROMs several times as well.

Would anyone be able to send me their sound rom image files or know of an alternate place on the net to find them? Or check my checksums against theirs?

Here are the sound ROM checksums I have:
YROM1 ECB95
DROM1 E9523

This has been an extremely annoying problem...! Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Nick

I had the same problem. Went through two sets of sound ROMS, two sound boards, all the guides. Never could figure out what was wrong with it.

On my Raven...sometimes I have to fire it up several times in order to get it to boot.

Any suggestions?

These games had a terrible problem with the daughter cards holding the game ROMS losing connection. The solder joints crack and are a pain to resolder. There is a simple check for this, take off the backglass and just push on the ROMS when you power the game on. If it boots that way, it's a good indicator your solder on that card needs attention.

Thanks jwo825

No problem. There are a couple guys that make some replacement daughter boards. I got mine on eBay with new ROMS for like $20 or $30 bucks. It worked like a champ

I might have to keep that in mind...

Shopped out my Raven months ago. Might have put 2 games on it since. I moved on to the next "project"...LOL

Thanks for the help on the Q56 light problem. I got new transistors yesterday and replaced the q56 and the light is not on anymore, but now when you push the rollover the games scores and makes sounds like it is supposed to but the light will not flash now. left side works fine still. I checked all transistors on driver board and they tested good as well as the aux lamp driver. Any thought on what to look for now?

Is it possible the flasher bulb burnt while it was locked on?

I checked that and it was fine. I even switched the bulbs. When you run the system tests and it tests sol 7 the light does not flash then either.

I would double check the solder work in that case. Also, check any associated fuses. I can't remember if that flasher has its own fuse or even if it has one. Been a while since my Raven moved out.

5V to high will cause the boot issue. I turned mine just a little under 5 and the issue was solved.

So I rechecked the solder and that was fine, I also checked all fuses that I could find and none of them are bad. I did notice a few other lights are out on playfield and I put new bulbs in but that did not rectify those either. So I pulled out a new rottendog driver board out of another machine I have to see if that would fix the problem, and it did not help. So I am wondering if it is the auxiliary lamp driver board. I checked it over and everything appeared fine. Like I mentioned in another post it had a transistor that had burned through the board and been repaired at some point. I was not able to pull a lamp driver out of the other machine to test as it does not have one. I also am wondering about 2N5880 transistor under the playfield. Even though it appeared to check out fine.

I have a Raven and a lot of the lights didn't work. Problem was the light sockets. The light sockets had gotten a patina or light corrosion on them and in them that caused them to lose power. Took some out and cleaned, others de-soldered and re soldered and still others I re-soldered one wire to the socket itself. Most work now. I still have a few to figure out.
So I would check to see if the light sockets have power to them.
Good luck

Well I started messing with the machine again. The L67 flasher bulb on the right side is still not working. Bulb is good. The socket is fine. I am getting the correct voltage at the socket. Everything is checking the same as the left side, which works of course. I tried a new driver board that I had. That did not help. I replaced the 2N5880 transistor and that did not help. I have checked ground continuity for sol 7 and it was fine also checked it on driver board connector and wires that are crimped on the pins and that was fine. You hit the roll over target and it scores of course but the light does not flash. So I started checking the mpu and found one of the resistors thats is supposed to 620 ohms but is only doing around 215 ohms. Is it possible that is the cause of the problem? It is R31 on the mpu if you have a raven book(which I don't have). I am starting to run out of ideas. lol

Raven club, hell yes! Here's mine. Seriously underrated pin. Firepower but better!

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I still think it could be the socket. De-solder the wires from a good socket then use jump wire to run from the non working socket to the known working socket and see if the light works.

It takes dedication to color the legs and armor on Raven! Looks great. You should get red molding for the backbox, now.

Haha yeah. I pretty much do that to every pin I buy. My powder coat guy does it all for $80. Super good deal.

Anyone interested in a working project Raven? Near Allentown PA. Asking $400. Game boot & plays but is having intermittent sound and display issues. Cosmetics are decent. Bumpers aren't working. Got it as part of a trade. Looking for a good home

Well I de solder the socket like you said and tested it and the light worked. So it definitely is not the socket. Can anyone ohm test their R31 resistor on their mpu and tell me what ohms they get testing both ways. I de solder mine out of the board and it checked good at 620 ohms like it is supposed to. So I put it back in and it is checking under 200 ohms. All the other resistors in that series are checking at or close to their specs. I am starting to think it is the mpu. I think perhaps it might be one of the IC's that has failed and is not sending the signal like it should.

you know nobody is going to sell one of these with LED's. LED's are worth more than the whole game. With the alternate translite, it's actually not a bad game.

The playfeild actually looks better out of the game than in. Anyone else get the feeling of Metal Gear on the NES when looking at this?

So is anyone able to check theirs for me?

Thanks

I have a mostly complete playfield for RAVEN, if anyone is in need. PM me is interested.