Sold out already. I found this link, but it's a couple bucks more after shipping.

ebay.com link: itm

Another source:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_338678_-1

Just tought this thread needed a little revival. Just bought my crimper from okgear. Hope to get the same awesome results as you guys are getting.

I just wish I could find the original manufacturer for these...

Ed, Did you find a supplier for these? Looks like they do a good job. Do they do both crimps at once? My old one works fine but takes me a long time to do a bunch a crimps.

thanks

Bob

just got one on the amazon link. can always use a good crimper

This is my go to crimper. Really works slick. If your using a CT-1026 or 28. You will be amazed at how easy this one works.

mine was $5. forget the brand but have had no issues with it. never failed to crimp a pin.

Anyone have any updates on how this crimper has been working out? I am thinking about getting it and want to be sure it works well enough to justify buying it.

Mine works great! It's perfect for .100 and .156 pins. Here's a current link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l0pcub1HABAVS
HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D
61999F71-C173-4DD9-BB3F-A49DB6436594-581.jpg

Trick to connectors is do them one at a time, none of that all at once nonsense I saw earlier.
F491FE52-6CCD-410E-BD93-6554099F3A65_1-900.jpg

You might as well do the header pins at the same time.
FE5C6979-C81A-40FE-A9BE-3B37FA9E8FDC-419.jpg

One board done, many more to go.
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And this is why it's worth the time to make it play reliably.
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Thanks for the info, After reading this thread and your post I am going to go ahead and get one.

Hanlong Industrial Co.,Ltd.
I have pricing for these and a few other tools of theirs (e.g. affordable contact extraction tools). Will probably stock these in a few months.

Still nothing beats using the W-HT-2445 (3136-CT) with the contact locator. Can often get used ones on ebay at about $40.

I bought one of those crimp tools, just to compare it.
I honestly like the Sargent 1026-CT or 1028-CT or the 3136-CT that Ed mentions.
This one is OK, bit the three I mentioned make crisper crimps.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

I bought one of these last year and I love it. Never had any of the ones Chris mentions but this is so much better than the Waldon I was using and crimping each one separately!

Thanks for posting, I have one but it's not ratcheting, it's a chore to crimp hopefully this one will make it easier.

Guarenteed. Here's a few tips. I let the ratchet click twice upon closing and then slip the connector in place. This holds the connector tightly and frees your hand to grab the wire. The real secret to a secure crimp is getting the insulated portion inserted to the perfect depth. The insulation should protrude just past the first set of crimps and not go as far as the second set of crimps designed to hold the wire. You've got maybe 1/16" between them so 1/32" to split the difference it pretty tight.

This crimper will trap the crimped connector and not release it freely. Secret is to gently but firmly pull the wire out while at the same time gently push down on the exposed connector on the other side of the crimper. It'll pop free with 2,3,4lbs of force. My local pinball tech who uses the $120 dollar crimpers, that spit the crimped connector out, found this to be the only real fault or drawback to my cheapo pair.

Once done, inspect the connection visually for two good crimps and then give it another even harder tug to see if you can pull it free. About 1/20 of mine fail the pull test even though they passed visually. Get your old ass eyes some reading glasses when doing this kind of work. That and a headband mounted flashlight make it go much faster. No matter what you're gonna be fighting back pain if you stay stooped over your game too long.

I'll do a couple of connectors, then take the board to the garage to remove the headers. Have a smoke and the install the new header pins. Back to the game to do the remaining connectors and then reinstall the board. If it's dirty I'll clean it with simple green and a toothbrush under a faucet. Some compressed air and a few hours in the sun will ensure it dry. Not counting drying time it take me about an hour for a board.

I bought one thanks for the heads up. This looks very close to my Paladin which I think I remember paying close to $100 for.

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Does anyone know what gauge wire the W-HT-2445 (3136-CT) can crimp?

HT-225D $23 shipped:

http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S

It comes with die sets for 18-22 and 24-30. It says they are interchangeable but I've never seen other die sets for sale but I admit I haven't looked.

I bought a HT-225D in May of 2013 and I have used it a lot since then. It has held up fine. It and these below have made crimping so much easier that I no longer find it a chore.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYTCG6

I just tried this crimper on the 24-30 AWG. From my experience, this crimper places too much squeeze, such that it deforms the back side of the contact. Reducing the ratchet spring tension does not eliminate this. The mating surfaces of the crimper when using the 24-30 AWG has a gap such that the back side of the contact is deformed into the gap. I didn't use the 18-22 AWG slot, so I can't comment on that, however the fit of the mating surfaces appears to be better, line-on-line.

Please let me know if I'm the only one experiencing this, or if using it incorrectly.