(Topic ID: 281036)

Random volume increase on WPC95 AFM


By Kevlar51

81 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 77 days ago by aeneas
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 81 days ago

With no regular frequency, the volume on my Attack from Mars will go to full blast mid-game. Once the ball I'm on drains, the volume goes back to normal.

This has happened two or three times over the last six months, but over the last two weeks, it's happening quite a bit.

Other issues worth mentioning that I've noticed starting within the last two weeks (may or may not be related):
1. My Bill Ung UFO mod LEDs aren't all lit--each saucer has 4 lights lit (two lit pairs opposite from each other) and 4 very faded. Bill's been very helpful troubleshooting, and I swapped some transistors and ICs with no luck, but I'm not convinced it the UFO board at this point.
2. My 12v LEDs (both regulated and unregulated) on the driver board are both quite dimmer than the 5, 20, etc. But the test points all measure fine.

I've tried reseating ribbon cables, and I'm not seeing any obvious issues on my boards (at least that haven't been there already). None of the capacitors look swollen either.

Thanks a lot for any help!

EDIT: Also, I've upgraded the sound chip to the latest rev.

#2 81 days ago

Has there been any battery leakage on the cpu board in the past?

#3 81 days ago
Quoted from jchristian11:

Has there been any battery leakage on the cpu board in the past?

There’s been battery leakage. At first I didn’t think it had hit the board but on closer inspection the top solder joints on c1, r90, and d25 look a bit funky, along with the path from c1.

Could this be the culprit, I’ve no clue what these affect.

79EB6A8E-77D5-43AB-8261-3FA47F556462 (resized).jpeg
#4 81 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

There’s been battery leakage. At first I didn’t think it had hit the board but on closer inspection the top solder joints on c1, r90, and d25 look a bit funky, along with the path from c1.

There is usually more damage than you can see. And it gets the diagnostic buttons first.

LTG : )

#5 81 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is usually more damage than you can see. And it gets the diagnostic buttons first.
LTG : )

By that do you mean if there's an error, the game won't tell me?

Should I be looking into a rottendog replacement (while I can)?

#6 81 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

By that do you mean if there's an error, the game won't tell me?

Errors are generally alerted because in 10 games or 30 balls a switch wasn't hit.

Quoted from Kevlar51:

Should I be looking into a rottendog replacement (while I can)?

Get your board fixed or one from https://pinballbasement.com/ he posts on Pinside, also as Lordloss

LTG : )

#7 81 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

There’s been battery leakage. At first I didn’t think it had hit the board but on closer inspection the top solder joints on c1, r90, and d25 look a bit funky, along with the path from c1.
Could this be the culprit, I’ve no clue what these affect.

Extremely unlikely. D25 and R90 are associated with the reset signal.

Quoted from LTG:

There is usually more damage than you can see. And it gets the diagnostic buttons first.

Only true for WPC-89 NOT WPC-95. WPC-89 batteries are located in the center of the board and usually leak (down with gravity) into the switch matrix circuitry. WPC-95 batteries are located at the top left of the board and usually leak into the reset signal section. The switch matrix is at the bottom of the WPC-95 board and you would probably take out the ASIC and PIC well before you took out the switch matrix ICs.

Quoted from Kevlar51:

Should I be looking into a rottendog replacement (while I can)?

That leakage is SO minor you could cut those components out, clean up the area with some alkaline abatement and replace the components. I don't see any problems elsewhere. Get rid of the battery holder - replace it and install a remote holder or consider NVRAM. You do *NOT* need a replacement for something that minor. That's a waste of $.

#8 81 days ago

As mentioned by DA, that corrosion isn’t the issue but it should be abated along with removing the battery holder and installing NVRAM.

I can take care of that if you’d like. Srop me a PM if you’d like.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#9 80 days ago

I'll look into board repair--thanks for making me look at my board harder.

But is the consensus that the corrosion evident is not the cause of my volume issue?

#10 80 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

But is the consensus that the corrosion evident is not the cause of my volume issue?

Yep. Both DA and I said the same thing.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 80 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

But is the consensus that the corrosion evident is not the cause of my volume issue?

The diagnostic buttons on the coin door. Look at the back of the switches where the wires solder on. Be sure none of the lugs are too long and shorting to metal.

LTG : P

#12 79 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

The diagnostic buttons on the coin door. Look at the back of the switches where the wires solder on. Be sure none of the lugs are too long and shorting to metal.
LTG : P

Thanks—they all look to be fine

#13 79 days ago

If it's because the game thinks the sound volume is increased manually (because of battery damage, direct input buttons problem, ..) it will show on the dmd the volume bar.

When it goes to full volume, does the volume go down again when you press the buttons inside the door ?
(And does it show the volume level) ?

#14 79 days ago
Quoted from aeneas:

If it's because the game thinks the sound volume is increased manually (because of battery damage, direct input buttons problem, ..) it will show on the dmd the volume bar.
When it goes to full volume, does the volume go down again when you press the buttons inside the door ?
(And does it show the volume level) ?

The volume bar does not show up on the DMD when it happens. I'll see if I can cradle the ball next time it happens to check with buttons. Since it fixes itself after I drain the ball, it's otherwise hard to check.

#15 77 days ago

then I suspect that the problem has nothing to do with the control buttons / battery damage but is somewhere on the soundboard or the connection (flatcable) between them.. cant help you more than that..
if you have the correct tool you can reseat the asic, sometimes this helps with 'weird' problems..

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