(Topic ID: 133725)

Random Reboots - Roller Coaster Tycoon

By Spyderturbo007

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by schudel5
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#2 5 years ago

Here's what I'd do first.

Look over the I/O driver board connectors. There is one directly above the voltage regulator (J16) that sends +5V to the CPU. That connector tends to get toasty and tarnished from the heat given off from the voltage regulator. If it looks brown, I'd replace it along with the header pins. I've replaced J16 on about 5 games that had reset issues and the reset issues all went away after doing that.

Next I'd reseat all the connectors around the edge of the board. Just in case one is flaky, but J16 tends to be the culprit.

Lastly test the +5V. Set your DMM on DC volts, black lead on ground braid, red lead on the bottom leg of resistor R114. If it reads below 4.9V I'd adjust the voltage up a bit with the potentiometer at R116. I've never had a low voltage issue with any Whitestar game yet. But check anyways and adjust if necessary.

I'll bet you have a bad J16.

1 year later
#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

When you say driver board, what does the driver board drive? So unplug it and play the game? Please excuse my ignorance.

I think he meant to say reseat (power off, unplug and plug back in) that 15-pin connector at J16. If you unplug the 15-pin connector at the top of the driver board (the larger board at the bottom of the backbox) the game won't do anything. That 15-pin connector at J16 provides 12V and 5V to the CPU board (big board at the top of the backbox). With that unplugged the CPU has no power.

It appears you reseated the connector and it lasted almost a year. This means you need to REPLACE the 15-pin male header and the female connector pins at J16 on the power driver board. I guarantee you this is the issue. 100% of the reset issues I've dealt with on Whitestar games are attributed to that single 15-pin connector. You need to replace BOTH the male header AND female connector pins.

#11 4 years ago

I buy this male header and snap it off for the length header you need. Clip off the pin at the key position: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=26-48-1245

Here is the connector housing: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81 Scroll down to the 15 position one.

Keying plug is on the above page as well.

Here is the female connector: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113&cat=81 You will need at least 14 of them.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Thanks for the part list we actually disagree on the part it's the 9 pin connector I am talking about. That was my issue - however one never knows.

The parts are all the same. Just get whatever size connector you are working on. If you are working on the 9-pin that's the GI connector J15 at the top left. The OP was having reset issues and that's the 15-pin J16 at the top center.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Thanks so much for the parts list. Looks like some soldering is required.
He'll have to dig someone up that can do that for him.

Soldering is the easy part, desoldering is the hardest part. In order to remove the header, a desoldering station is the best approach but the equipment is pricey. You can do it with a spring loaded sucker too, but it takes a while. The worst thing that can happen when removing headers is pulling the plated through holes out with the header pin. Make sure the solder is good and melted before pulling the pin out of the board.

Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Is this the crimper I would need?
Part Number: W-HT-1919
Crimper, 0.093" & 0.156"
Crimper, 0.093" & 0.156"
Crimper (Red)

Yes. Just be forewarned, the plastic handle grips SUCK. They tend to slide off during crimping. What I did is pulled them off and bought a can of that rubber dipping stuff and dipped the handles every hour or so until I go the thickness I wanted. Much better. But yeah those are the ones you want. I also have a set of .100" crimpers as well for when you need to work on those smaller connectors.

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