Total Lightshow. Development thread. Now intercepting and controlling inserts!

(Topic ID: 107609)

Total Lightshow. Development thread. Now intercepting and controlling inserts!


By TimeBandit

3 years ago



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  • 1,979 posts
  • 205 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 minutes ago by TimeBandit
  • Topic is favorited by 185 Pinsiders

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“Is there such a thing as "Too many lights"”

  • Is there such a thing as too much luvin? 5 votes
    19%
  • Is there such a thing as too much good music? 3 votes
    12%
  • Is there such a thing as too much pinball? 18 votes
    69%

(26 votes)

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There are 1980 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 40.
#1651 10 months ago
Quoted from MrKegFlex:

As usual, very easy to update the firmware.

Was just going to post this. I can't believe how non-eventful it is doing an update on this platform.

Another thanks here TimeBandit!

#1652 10 months ago

I really need to get around to updating to 2.20. My Metallica is still on 2.02 I believe!

#1653 10 months ago

Just a quick heads up re stock. I am almost out of everything and am going through a restocking. Main boards are going to be about a 4 week turnaround. I have two Met kits left at the moment and that's it. By the time the main boards come back I should have a bunch of cables built so everything will come on line at the same time.
Thanks of course to everyone for the ongoing support and feedback on the products. I will get things back in stock as soon as possible.
Cheers
Mike

#1654 10 months ago

Still waiting for the complete IM kits...

#1655 9 months ago

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to take Germany off the destination list. Customs is just way too hard. Usually, they just hold things up for too long, but now they are withholding product without German instructions. If you live in Germany, please ask a friend in the Netherlands to buy for you.

#1656 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to take Germany off the destination list. Customs is just way too hard. Usually, they just hold things up for too long, but now they are withholding product without German instructions. If you live in Germany, please ask a friend in the Netherlands to buy for you.

So they actually open every package to make sure German instructions are included? That's nuts.

#1657 9 months ago

Oh man, after this announcement, there's going to be a few unhappy Germans around here (a.k.a. Sour Krauts)

#1658 9 months ago

I know it's frustrating waiting for stock, but I AM working, honest.
Hour and a half to assemble 32 LED pods. Eight hours' work between now and when boards come in will see a couple of hundred ready at the same time.

IMG20170923205631 (resized).jpg

#1659 9 months ago

Is there a decent troubleshooting guide anywhere? Outside of the videos showing you how to plug what where there is nothing.

I hooked it all up and turned it on but none of the new lights work at all. Is there a way to put this thing into test mode?

#1660 9 months ago

narrowed it down to the top fuse keeps blowing. Can not see any reason why yet

#1661 9 months ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Is there a decent troubleshooting guide anywhere?

You can PM me or use the contact email to ask questions. I do the troubleshooting for you.

Quoted from GrimDog:

narrowed it down to the top fuse keeps blowing. Can not see any reason why yet

If a fuse keeps blowing there is a short somewhere in the installed playfield wiring. If you have gone through both 500mA fuses then don't try with a higher rated fuse. Get some more 500mA fuses first.

#1662 9 months ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Is there a way to put this thing into test mode?

If you have a 6V power source, you can simply apply power to the ends of each of the three socket strings in turn to see if your bulbs light up. That way you will discover what is shorted without having the main driver board hooked up.

I often use a 9V battery and just briefly touch the ends to it. Yes, it's over voltage, but less than half a second of operation will not damage the bulbs. And it's super convenient.

#1663 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

If you have a 6V power source, you can simply apply power to the ends of each of the three socket strings in turn to see if your bulbs light up. That way you will discover what is shorted without having the main driver board hooked up.
I often use a 9V battery and just briefly touch the ends to it. Yes, it's over voltage, but less than half a second of operation will not damage the bulbs. And it's super convenient.

Sent you a PM.

#1664 9 months ago

I'm going to change the drop target effect on Met. As it is now, it plays the blue fade if the shot isn't lit, and if the arrow is flashing it plays a red flash. Trouble with this is that I find it is playing the red flash too much of the time, and I want to see more of the blue fade. There is enough red flashing going on already! I was being too cute with the coding there, creating two different effects on the same shot, and I think it would be better to just have the blue fade associated with the drops.

I will leave the current code up and just give this update a new version number. Should be up in the next day or so.

#1665 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

I'm going to change the drop target effect on Met. As it is now, it plays the blue fade if the shot isn't lit, and if the arrow is flashing it plays a red flash. Trouble with this is that I find it is playing the red flash too much of the time, and I want to see more of the blue fade. There is enough red flashing going on already! I was being too cute with the coding there, creating two different effects on the same shot, and I think it would be better to just have the blue fade associated with the drops.
I will leave the current code up and just give this update a new version number. Should be up in the next day or so.

Ok. That's done. V2.21 now posted.

http://redshiftled.com.au/downloads.php

#1666 9 months ago

Now I'm glad I procrastinated updating the MET code ...

#1667 9 months ago

Tron code is about to get some DIP switch selectivity around the level of factory GI dimming during multiballs. I dim it so the ramp colours are more apparent, but it can affect visibility too much in a dark room. New code will let you choose from two levels of dimming. Should be up in the next day or so.

I'm also thinking of providing independent spotlight control to address this. That will take me a bit longer but could be done this week.

#1668 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Tron code is about to get some DIP switch selectivity around the level of factory GI dimming during multiballs. I dim it so the ramp colours are more apparent, but it can affect visibility too much in a dark room. New code will let you choose from two levels of dimming. Should be up in the next day or so.
I'm also thinking of providing independent spotlight control to address this. That will take me a bit longer but could be done this week.

Man I wish Stern was as good as you at getting new code out.

#1669 9 months ago

Installed, thanks!!!

#1670 9 months ago

Tron V1.2 is up at the website. This version sets DIP switch 2 to control the level of GI brightness during main multiballs. As shipped, in the Off position, the GI is extra-dim. Switch it to On to brighten the GI. It is still dimmer than normal play to get those ramps really popping and set a bit of mood, but in a dark room it is now easier to track the ball.

http://redshiftled.com.au/downloads.php

#1671 9 months ago

Anyone updating the code having difficulty with "The best driver is already installed"? I'm able to see the device, but cannot get a good driver installed.

#1672 9 months ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Anyone updating the code having difficulty with "The best driver is already installed"? I'm able to see the device, but cannot get a good driver installed.

Does the device you are able to see look like this, with this label?..

device (resized).PNG

#1673 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Does the device you are able to see look like this, with this label?..

It shows as:
Unknown device (device descriptor request failed)

#1674 9 months ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

It shows as:
Unknown device (device descriptor request failed)

Is this the first time you've updated code? There is some software needed and maybe you don't have it yet. Details are at the top of the downloads page on the website. Apologies if you've already done that, but hard for me to tell.

#1675 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Is this the first time you've updated code? There is some software needed and maybe you don't have it yet. Details are at the top of the downloads page on the website. Apologies if you've already done that, but hard for me to tell.

Thanks, Bandit. I think I have everything installed but will double check and follow up in PM.

#1676 9 months ago

I just updated my MET to 2.21. Everything went smoothly, but it seems like my white GI string is now a little more "stroby" when fading during attract mode. Is this possible, or am I imagining things?

#1677 9 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I just updated my MET to 2.21. Everything went smoothly, but it seems like my white GI string is now a little more "stroby" when fading during attract mode. Is this possible, or am I imagining things?

Hmm. It should actually be better. Do you mean new white or factory white? Installed white shouldn't have any jitter at all. It's only ever the factory strings if anything due to them being a.c. And it's a little subjective. Half the folks can't see it at all.

#1678 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Hmm. It should actually be better. Do you mean new white or factory white? Installed white shouldn't have any jitter at all. It's only ever the factory strings if anything due to them being a.c. And it's a little subjective. Half the folks can't see it at all.

I'm not sure if it's the new white or the factory white. It seemed to be on all of them. It was particularly noticeable with the LED's under the slingshots and in the spotlights. I guess I can try reverting back to see if there is a difference. It's possible it was always like that and I didn't notice. Obviously, I was paying closer attention than normal after the update.

#1679 9 months ago

Okay, so it is definitely not my imagination. I flashed back to the earlier version of the code, and the fades are smooth again. There is definitely something in 2.21 that isn't jiving with my machine. The best way to describe it is that you can see the different distinct brightness levels which makes the fading appear choppy instead of smooth.

#1680 9 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Okay, so it is definitely not my imagination. I flashed back to the earlier version of the code, and the fades are smooth again. There is definitely something in 2.21 that isn't jiving with my machine. The best way to describe it is that you can see the different distinct brightness levels which makes the fading appear choppy instead of smooth.

I'll check it out

#1682 9 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Okay, so it is definitely not my imagination. I flashed back to the earlier version of the code, and the fades are smooth again. There is definitely something in 2.21 that isn't jiving with my machine. The best way to describe it is that you can see the different distinct brightness levels which makes the fading appear choppy instead of smooth.

Try it out again. Same version and link, but I've put new code there.

#1683 9 months ago

I've revisited the idea of a test mode again. I think it's most useful for the ramp kits, as you may need to check that you have your LED pods plugged in the right way, and check that each of the RGB components is working properly. I'm using playfield switches to trigger it rather than the DIPs on the board. If you're messing with your ramps you have the glass off anyway.

Tron code V1.3 is now posted at the website with new test mode. http://redshiftled.com.au/downloads.php

To enter test mode, take glass off machine and leave in attract mode. Hold left outlane switch down for four seconds. Ramp lights and GI will turn off, indicating test mode is active. While in test mode, press and hold TRON_R, TRON_O or TRON_N standup targets to activate red, green or blue ramp test respectively. To exit test mode, hold down right outlane switch for two seconds and ramps will return to attract mode. Alternatively, start a game to exit test mode.

#1684 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Try it out again. Same version and link, but I've put new code there.

I will check it out when I get home later this afternoon and report back.

#1685 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

I've revisited the idea of a test mode again. I think it's most useful for the ramp kits, as you may need to check that you have your LED pods plugged in the right way, and check that each of the RGB components is working properly. I'm using playfield switches to trigger it rather than the DIPs on the board. If you're messing with your ramps you have the glass off anyway.
Tron code V1.3 is now posted at the website with new test mode. http://redshiftled.com.au/downloads.php
To enter test mode, take glass off machine and leave in attract mode. Hold left outlane switch down for four seconds. Ramp lights and GI will turn off, indicating test mode is active. While in test mode, press and hold TRON_R, TRON_O or TRON_N standup targets to activate red, green or blue ramp test respectively. To exit test mode, hold down right outlane switch for two seconds and ramps will return to attract mode. Alternatively, start a game to exit test mode.
» YouTube video

Very cool and creative!

#1686 9 months ago

Going thru the TLS install on Metallica. When I plug the power cable into the auxiliary 12V outlet and power on the machine, I hear a consistent and noticeable buzzing. Unplug the power cable, and power up, the buzz is gone. Anyone experience this?

#1687 9 months ago
Quoted from 6point5degrees:

Going thru the TLS install on Metallica. When I plug the power cable into the auxiliary 12V outlet and power on the machine, I hear a consistent and noticeable buzzing. Unplug the power cable, and power up, the buzz is gone. Anyone experience this?

So you're getting a buzz during attract mode? There is, in some cases, some audible EM related noise during the heavy switching load going on during the constant fading. I find the level of noise to be inconsistent from installation to installation. I have never been able to hear it unless there is dead silence in the room, and then on only one of my machines. It's exactly the same as the buzzing that comes from high voltage DMDs when they have a lot of dots going on the screen.

#1688 9 months ago

The new version of the software works great. You da man, mike!!! What was causing the choppy fading?

#1689 9 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

The new version of the software works great. You da man, mike!!! What was causing the choppy fading?

Excellent!
In all honesty, I don't know for sure, but here's my take on it, and a better engineer will surely point out why I am totally wrong, but it seems to work..

The PWM exists as time slices, and the fade curves are trig functions (sin, cos), so at the top end of the curve you get a lot of time slices where there is not a lot of change in the brightness and everything is driven at its fullest. When all these things happen at once there is some jittter. During the sides of the curve there is a lot of change in brightness in the time slices and your persistence of vision can't keep up as well with the changes, so your brain lets it go.

I changed the code, and had done this before but forgot to carry it over, so that we spend less time at the top of the curve. See pic..red = old code, blue = new. Not to scale or anything, haha.

IMG20171009120852 (resized).jpg

#1690 9 months ago

And here's a quick preview of what's coming up tomorrow. When you all wake up you will be able to watch Total Lightshow driving TNT drop targets in my AC/DC pro VE.

--Edit. This was way too optimistic. I can do everything except make the machine read the drop targets properly. They are permanently active, whether up or down. Oh well, in over my head again. I'll figure it out.

#1691 9 months ago

Regarding the buzzing, after putting the glass back on and firing up the machine, there's still a buzz but not as noticeable as with the glass off. And this was with total silence, so I'm not too concerned.

#1692 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Excellent!
In all honesty, I don't know for sure, but here's my take on it, and a better engineer will surely point out why I am totally wrong, but it seems to work..
The PWM exists as time slices, and the fade curves are trig functions (sin, cos), so at the top end of the curve you get a lot of time slices where there is not a lot of change in the brightness and everything is driven at its fullest. When all these things happen at once there is some jittter. During the sides of the curve there is a lot of change in brightness in the time slices and your persistence of vision can't keep up as well with the changes, so your brain lets it go.
I changed the code, and had done this before but forgot to carry it over, so that we spend less time at the top of the curve. See pic..red = old code, blue = new. Not to scale or anything, haha.

I thought you put a "new version" out there as a placebo.

Interesting stuff!

#1693 9 months ago
Quoted from MrKegFlex:

I thought you put a "new version" out there as a placebo.

LOL!!! I'm not one who is particularly susceptible to strobing or other LED induced artifacts, but I noticed the difference right away as soon as I updated to the new code. Obviously, some of it may have to do with the particular LED's I have in my game, but I'm guessing a lot of people are using the exact same twin 2835 SMD Comets.

#1695 9 months ago

Code at the moment is just a reset of the bank when all drops are down. Clearly it's currently too snappy on the reset after the third fall. Tonight I will tune the response times, and code up new ball reset and behavior for the TNT mode.

#1696 9 months ago

This might be your best idea yet. Looks great!

#1697 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

I just got another batch of Comet twin 2835 smds in, and they seem to be even better than before. The casing is different, so something has changed with their supplier, but I'm super happy with them. Rich colour and great brightness.

SMVE...?

#1698 9 months ago

I picked up a Tron with the TLS package, got it set up and turned on, but I have no G.I. or ramp lights. I've checked all the connections and can't find anything loose. Any suggestions on what to do or where to start diagnosing the problem would be very helpful. I'm at a complete loss on what to do next. Thanks in advance.

***Edit*** Nevermind. I turned it off and on and it's working. Must've been a loose connection somewhere.

#1699 9 months ago

Total Lightshow now officially supports drop target installation in selected kits. New code will initially be posted to support the TNT 3-bank in AC/DC and the TRON 4-bank in Tron. More games will follow. An add-on kit will be offered so you can get your drops installed and running in literally under an hour. See the drop target thread for details. If you already have a Tron kit or an AC/DC kit you can just get the add-on kit, re-flash your main board code and away you go.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-put-drop-targets-in-your-stern-pro-sam#post-4027334

#1700 9 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Total Lightshow now officially supports drop target installation in selected kits. New code will initially be posted to support the TNT 3-bank in AC/DC and the TRON 4-bank in Tron. More games will follow. An add-on kit will be offered so you can get your drops installed and running in literally under an hour. See the drop target thread for details. If you already have a Tron kit or an AC/DC kit you can just get the add-on kit, re-flash your main board code and away you go.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-put-drop-targets-in-your-stern-pro-sam#post-4027334

This is some pretty amazing stuff you're doing, Mike! With all your add-ons, you're really closing the gap between the pros and the premium/LE's.

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