Quoted from bigd1979:Odd mine went together?
I'd say Damage's issue is pretty rare. If I see another one I'll make note of it on the installation thread.
Quoted from bigd1979:Odd mine went together?
I'd say Damage's issue is pretty rare. If I see another one I'll make note of it on the installation thread.
Quoted from TimeBandit:I'd say Damage's issue is pretty rare. If I see another one I'll make note of it on the installation thread.
Got mine up and running and I just sent you a email
the 12v near the coin door is powering my britemod LED flipper buttons. I assume I can split it to power the lightshow board?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1802
Quoted from damageinc55:the 12v near the coin door is powering my britemod LED flipper buttons. I assume I can split it to power the lightshow board?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1802
Don't waste your money on that splitter, the DK Pinball FTS-8 power splitter board is the way to go. There are 8 power taps that can be used for any combination of 5 or 12v. $25 + shipping. Check it out cuz ya never know when you'll need to split more power. I have them in 5 of my games. DKpinball.com
Quoted from damageinc55:What is the latest on undercab lighting tied into this? Does any version of code support it?
Plug strips into the same outputs as the bulbs and they will mirror whats happening on the playfield straight away. Check the current draw though. I found in testing that it would shut down occasionally if you hang too much off it, and you might blow the 2A fuse on the power outputs. The fets survive the fuse blow ok. If you short anything a fet will get taken out along with fuse though.
I only tested with 5v led strips though. I would recommend a 12v step up and use 12v strips.
Have everything installed and works fine but had only time for 1 testplay. Just to busy schedule this week
However, tonight is pinball time. Frineds come over and we will test it 200% for sure
Quoted from Rensh:Have everything installed and works fine but had only time for 1 testplay. Just to busy schedule this week
I think you just have to cancel sleeping.
Are we still able to put lights under the lane plastics (if the metal is drilled out?). If I'm counting right, 10 sockets are needed instead of 9. Can just splice in another socket or use a wedge base splitter?
Quoted from knockerlover:Are we still able to put lights under the lane plastics (if the metal is drilled out?). If I'm counting right, 10 sockets are needed instead of 9. Can just splice in another socket or use a wedge base splitter?
Yes you can. You can use your favourite method of adding in a socket. You can put more than that in too if you are keen. There was some talk of the front of an apron being drilled out.
Quoted from TimeBandit:I think you just have to cancel sleeping.
I did get some sleep fortunately but can state people were impressed with your mod. A real promium it is
Saw one time a bug where the lights went off for several seconds but was in the mid of some hectic gameplay so can't pinpoint you to the cause
Quoted from Rensh:I did get some sleep fortunately but can state people were impressed with your mod. A real promium it is
Saw one time a bug where the lights went off for several seconds but was in the mid of some hectic gameplay so can't pinpoint you to the cause
Great feedback thanks. Keep an eye out for the bug if it happens again. I am travelling for a few weeks so I can't play test personally, but I do have my pc with me, so if I have a specific fix that I can put in I can post new code.
OK, I just installed the new kit.. and I have a complaint. It is so freaking awesome, that I can't focus on playing the game because I'm too busy watching the light show! Mod is awesome.
Quoted from knockerlover:OK, I just installed the new kit.. and I have a complaint. It is so freaking awesome, that I can't focus on playing the game because I'm too busy watching the light show! Mod is awesome.
Haha. Awesome. Thanks for that.
Where do I start an official petition for variant software that leaves the red and blue off if not directly being used for an effect?
Quoted from epthegeek:Where do I start an official petition for variant software that leaves the red and blue off if not directly being used for an effect?
I can do that. It might not even be a big change actually. I have a base, normal play state that calls all the lights on. I will try adjusting that normal state to having the red and blue off. That may of course throw things elsewhere, but it's somewhere to start.
Can the software be added to/modified by others or only by you? I was thinking about a few effects that might be cool to add, like a light pulse on a spinner hit (left or right pick targets rehit within a short period of time) and a few other ideas.
I'm loving it so far. And I like the normal white-only version you made as Eric suggested.
Quoted from RobertWinter:Can the software be added to/modified by others or only by you? I was thinking about a few effects that might be cool to add, like a light pulse on a spinner hit (left or right pick targets rehit within a short period of time) and a few other ideas.
I'm loving it so far. And I like the normal white-only version you made as Eric suggested.
Technically, if you can use Atmel Studio, you can modify the code. But, the issue is not necessarily building the effects, it's making sure the triggers don't set other stuff off inadvertently. A lot of my code development was building filters to stop this.
A lot of things are already built as well. My spinner handler will work straight up on a pick target for example. It already works the way you suggest, monitoring the time between spinner switch hits to determine whether the spinner is active. I could post modified spinner handling for Met quicker than someone could install Atmel Studio. So, at this stage I'm going to run with code modification by request. If you have specific requests, pop them in the user thread and I will attend to them within a day or two.
Quoted from TimeBandit:I could post modified spinner handling for Met quicker than someone could install Atmel Studio.
What if we already have Atmel Studio installed? Seriously, if you're OK with it, it's way easier to just send you any requests. One of these days, I hope to have time to play a few games with a camera running and point out any of the few anomalies I'm seeing.
Quoted from herg:have time to play a few games with a camera running and point out any of the few anomalies I'm seeing.
Please do. I know of a couple that are inconsistent and will be tidying up during January. For eg, I know the sparky MB start sometimes runs too quickly. I wouldn't call these bugs at the moment as they don't really affect the user experience, but rest assured, I can't stand anything that's not perfect and will address the tiniest anomaly that anyone finds.
(Plus, I know there are plenty of people out there who won't buy it till they know the code is finished. so goes pinball. )
Quoted from TimeBandit:(Plus, I know there are plenty of people out there who won't buy it till they know the code is finished. so goes pinball. )
Pinball code is never really "finished". Look at WOZ - it just gets better and better.
Bandit you are doing a great job of supporting everyone. Even while you are out of town. Cudos!
Anyone on the fence for this should just buy it. It is awesome!
I was thinking the other day and the only time i ever noticed a issue with the MI getting confused was because all the GI was off for a few seconds.
Realizing that there are probably always gonna be corner cases where some crazy combo of events happen, could the "default" behavior be "all 3 strands on" vs all 3 strands off? (Or with the lastest code, i guess that would just be white-on, blue/red-off.). That way i dont think it would be obvious that the MI board missed a cue here or there.
Quoted from Rickwh:Realizing that there are probably always gonna be corner cases where some crazy combo of events happen, could the "default" behavior be "all 3 strands on" vs all 3 strands off? (Or with the lastest code, i guess that would just be white-on, blue/red-off.). That way i dont think it would be obvious that the MI board missed a cue here or there.
You are right on the money with that line of thought. I generally try to recover that way or, as you say, try to have as much default behaviour failing to "on" as I can. To freeze to "off" it has to hang right on an instruction to be deliberately off, such as the dark part of a flash. I would be really interested if you could ever isolate the conditions of a freeze off, as I haven't been able to generate one in a long time. If I can see exactly what's causing it, then I can get rid of it.
I finally got a chance to turn on my game again, and I installed the epthegeek variant. I agree I like it better than the standard code. It really makes the effects stand out.
One request would be a little bit of white light during the coffin multiball startup. Since the Pro doesn't lock the balls, it's a bit dark while the ball is still in play.
It didn't do the completely dark thing during the couple of games I was able to play.
Quoted from herg:One request would be a little bit of white light during the coffin multiball startup. Since the Pro doesn't lock the balls, it's a bit dark while the ball is still in play.
Yeah there are a few times when it needs that bit extra. I find using the backboard lights on their own is a good solution. (Thanks GI interceptor for that control ). It gives an ambient light without seeing any white bulbs, so the red saturation is not broken but you get that extra bit of visibility. I'll sneak it in as standard code. Might be a day or two. I've moved on from Honolulu to LA and the wifi not so good in the new hotel.
Anybody considering piggybacking for LED's in the backbox? Seems like a no-brainer, tell me why I shouldn't try this...
Quoted from damageinc55:Anybody considering piggybacking for LED's in the backbox? Seems like a no-brainer, tell me why I shouldn't try this...
I hadn't thought about it, but now that you mention it, it's a great idea.
I have an LED panel in my game with a custom dimming controller. It monitors the flipper button and dims the backbox while playing. At first glance, GI Theatre should be able to control the backbox LEDs to much greater effect. I'm not sure about the current draw, though.
Quoted from damageinc55:Anybody considering piggybacking for LED's in the backbox? Seems like a no-brainer, tell me why I shouldn't try this...
Please do. I will do a bit of testing when I get home, too.
Quoted from herg:I'm not sure about the current draw, though.
You should have no trouble with 1A per channel on the power outputs and 2A across all four. In standard setup it's peaking at about 380mA.
just ordered the rising cross mechanism and a 6-12v step up dc-dc transformer. Hopefully I can get it working!
Quoted from knockerlover:just ordered the rising cross mechanism and a 6-12v step up dc-dc transformer. Hopefully I can get it working!
There are a few of us with it in and working now, so shout if you have any problems. I know a lot of folks don't think it does much and is probably not worth the money, and I would tend to agree with that.. but I tell you what, it's pretty BAD ASS when it's in.
Quoted from damageinc55:Anyone found good prices for the rising cross?
Maybe I should call Stern, tell them there is a reason to sell it now, and that if they dropped the price to something palatable they would sell a bunch. I can't imagine many are moving off the shelves as a spare part.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Maybe I should call Stern, tell them there is a reason to sell it now, and that if they dropped the price to something palatable they would sell a bunch. I can't imagine many are moving off the shelves as a spare part.
Couldn't hurt. I've sent them an email simply requesting the unit. Perhaps if they start to see some demand...
Quoted from TimeBandit:Maybe I should call Stern, tell them there is a reason to sell it now, and that if they dropped the price to something palatable they would sell a bunch. I can't imagine many are moving off the shelves as a spare part.
I'd be careful. Remember the whole drama with Non-Stern Spike shakers and warranty? If you're adding boards and installing motors, someone may run into a warranty issue.
Stern had always been helpful but Jared went on a mad tear about warranty stuff a few months ago.
Still loving the board!
Quoted from Mudflaps:I'd be careful. Remember the whole drama with Non-Stern Spike shakers and warranty? If you're adding boards and installing motors, someone may run into a warranty issue.
Technically, I can agree with the warranty policy. In fact, one could argue that warranty policies are usually in place to protect manufacturers more than the consumers. I can't see how they can support a product when tinkerers are pulling it apart and modding it up and down.
That being said, Stern seems to do a great job in supporting their product and they know that part of the reason they sell machines is because people like to tinker with them.
Quoted from knockerlover:Re: rising cross. Where should we be tapping the power from ideally?
Power comes from the MI board power output #5, which is the one currently not being used by the socket strings.
Quoted from knockerlover:Re: rising cross. Where should we be tapping the power from ideally?
Tap #5 and up use something to bump up the voltage from 5v to 12v like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J03PBW0
Quoted from BOBCADE:Tap #5 and up use something to bump up the voltage from 5v to 12v like this
Nice looking execution! Thanks for the link.
Got it installed. The cross continuously rises and lowers during grave marker multiball. Is this ep excited behavior? I thought it would come up and stay up until multiball is over then lower. Checked and both switches are working.
Quoted from knockerlover:Got it installed. The cross continuously rises and lowers during grave marker multiball. Is this ep excited behavior? I thought it would come up and stay up until multiball is over then lower. Checked and both switches are working.
Have you reloaded the code to support the cross? I'm sure you have, I just have to ask in the interest of completeness.
Assuming the code has been reflashed, the first obvious thing I guess you could check is that the switches are not somehow reversed. I'm just thinking off the top of my head. I am not near a machine.
I reflashed with 1.03c. I can try that again just in case. Will give the switches another look today.
Ok, well at worst it's only missing one switch read, which I can check quickly. I will have a look at the code sometime today. I will PM you a link to 1.02c to use in the meantime. If that presents the same issue there might be something up with your setup, but these things are almost always software.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Any plans to update ACDC? I'm totally happy with it, but I'm curious if you have anything up your sleeve.
Thanks again for a stellar mod.
I'm leaving the GI alone at this point, unless there is a specific request out there, but the addressable strips are still open and unused. I always thought a chase light down the left ramp glowing from underneath the train track mod would look cool. And there is something else I'm working on as an add on, so yes, more to come for ACDC.
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