Translated to a tee.

And I think I've found the culprit, Harold. The dreaded opto.
Here is what the opto switch return looks like..
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And here is a regular micro switch..
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The switch getting falsely triggered is the one that comes after that opto and lines up with the drive signal. I think the area of slow recovery by the opto from being pulled low is polluting the next time window and giving me a false trigger.
See how it recovers more sharply in the second pic. I don't get any noise in that pair. I will have to ignore the first 50us of that sample and it should be clean.

Now that your Met Pro has all that lovely colour around the place, you're going to get pretty annoyed when one of the bulbs gets loose in a socket and goes out. Premium owners know this. The ones at the front are ok; a quick slide of the glass and a push back in and away you go. The ones at the back however need the PF lifted, the socket quickly screwed out and a re-fit of the bulb. When the GI is all white, I guess a lot of us let the odd bulb go for a while until next we have the PF up for another reason. With the colour though, I think you are going to want it all good, all the time.

I really recommend this method to keep the bulbs in for good. Given that you are going to be supplied with fresh sockets it's a great time to do this BEFORE they go in, never to cause a problem again, from the day they are installed. Of course, lots of folks use different methods, which have been documented quite a bit on Pinside, and they are all effective methods. I am just a real convert to this one. Quick, clean and easy to reverse.

Using heat shrink to keep wedge bulbs in a socket..

Easy removal if required..

I've tested the first board off the production run that was sent to me as a sample. I'm sending in the OK for the rest of the batch to go ahead today. Met Pro and ACDC will be shipping shortly after I get back from Expo. I will start a for sale thread then with ordering details.

16mm

I was lucky enough to have some in a mixed bag that I have. I have never sourced clear heat shrink on its own. But I am going to now of course! Black looks pretty sleek too. I love the grippy feel of the clear though.

I have been asked a couple of times if I can support the raising cross mechanism in the pro. I'm not sure how many folks would go to the trouble of installing it, but I've decided to bite the bullet and buy the mechanism and try to get it to work. The main board has the spare output ready to dedicate to the function, and I know I certainly can get signals to it at the right times, but getting it to listen might be another story.
Anyway, just wanted to mention it for the few guys who might care.

No.

Well, great news for the rising cross hopefuls. I received my cross mechanism today, and within a couple of hours had it bolted into place (it won't take you that long to install it. It took me that long to figure everything out) and successfully connected into the machine's switch matrix. In switch test, the two switches (cross up, cross down limit switches) on the mechanism correctly come up as #33 and #34 when activated. This means I can guarantee that I can talk to it through the Matrix Interceptor. I also tested powering it directly through the power outputs of the Interceptor (although I never planned on running motors through it) using one of my old boards. It only draws 300mA so I am comfortable doing it. The only issue is that because my power outputs are capped at 6.3V the motor rotates slower. It takes 11.5 seconds for the cross to rise fully.
I didn't do a full operating test with code as my sample board is back with the manufacturer.

So those of you who are thinking about it, see if you would be happy with 11.5 seconds' travel and then I can tell you that it is easy to install and I will support it. If you require the faster travel to exactly match the premium you would have to power it with 12V separately and then I would need to put a transistor in the line and trigger it with my output. I would need to build a little board to do that properly and the only benefit of all that would be the faster travel. Not so sure I'd be up for all that.

--edit: OR, idiot, I could just put a 12v step up converter in the line!

Testing the connection. The old static cross is still mounted there in the playfield..
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Tapping into the switch matrix..
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Another view of the switch matrix tap..
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Connect the cross mechanism straight to the tap..
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Some drilling required for mounting holes. They are different to the static pro cross..
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A bit of a tight fit amongst the Pro's wiring harnesses..
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Well there's a good point. For roughly the same price as the cross mechanism you can get the whole lightshow.

The switches are registered by the machine if they are wired correctly into the matrix. The game code on the pinball machine will not read them though. So, something like my board can still intercept an on/off state using the architecture of the matrix, then do something off the back of the switch signal.

In this particular case, I wire the switches into the blank #33 and #34 positions which are properly read in the low level driving universe of the machine (but ignored by the game code), then intercept those switch signals as I would any other switch signal. I then use that signal in conjunction with my own grave multiball triggers to activate the cross.

It also means that I could wire in a new switch into any blank space in the matrix. I hadn't originally set out to do this in the original spec but now I am looking for ideas to exploit this functionality.

If they are installed with the diode wired correctly it is a snap to get them placed into the switch matrix. Once there I can intercept them and add lighting effects. I am doing a bit of spinner development at the moment. Because I can count switch hits, I can tie lighting to how hard you rip the spinner for example. In this short Tron video watch when I test the Quorra spinner (1m25s). I first hit it gently and a bit of green GI comes in. Then when I hit it hard you see the green GI ramp up in strength and then at 13 spins it starts flashing.
I can't integrate them into the Stern code though

I OK'd the production sample regarding its main functionality, then just before I flew off to Expo I remembered to test the USB port to be complete. It was dead. I can't believe it. There's always something!! So just trying to track down this issue. Once sorted, the guys at the board house have their finger hovering over the button to run the batch. I have kit boxes packed with cables etc, just waiting for the main board to drop in on top and post. So close.

Just for the "pics or it didn't happen" crowd ..

Bags of socket strings ready for packing..
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Matrix cables..
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Bags of sockets..
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Hardware baggies..
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GI Interceptors..
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Yes, a simple bad joint. No circuit errors. But I did lose a bit of time by dropping it back to them before I flew out. It went into a bit of a black hole over there. I should have waited till I got back, tested it myself, reflowed the joint and given the all clear. Oh well, another week down the toilet.

Boards are here.
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First production board programmed at the bench. Heartbeat stable.

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Now don't get too excited. A little bit of tweaking here and there to do yet, but should launch in a couple of days' time.

At launch it will be USD285 plus shipping, which is the whole kit ex bulbs. There is a "what's in the box" post back in the thread there somewhere. Termination resistor boards for non-LED Pros will be a $19 add on. Shipping quote from Australia Post to the US at the moment looks to be under 20 bucks.