(Topic ID: 156822)

rainman volcano

By rcbrown316

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

spent a nice evening with my gottlieb volcano. has some switch issues which i believe I have solved. also had some audio issues which appeared to be associated wit the edge connector as it would appear/disappear when I wiggled it. took the board out, reflowed the connection pads and cleaned the two pots. audio is now stable but the sounds are considerably different. when i hit the spinner its repeats "volcano" it appear I lost "throw me a sacrifice" and "it's gonna blow" (it already blows). also it appears to change background sounds sequences. seems like what I thought was multiball background sound comes up too fast. it doesnt say eruption before multiball and when the game ends whatever background sound was playing just continues to play. looking for some advice so it doesn't "continue to blow" any ideas?

#2 8 years ago

Try rebuilding your A6 connector. I just had this same issue with my Punk. Those punch pin type connections were black from overheating when I removed them. Everything works now.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Try rebuilding your A6 connector. I just had this same issue with my Punk. Those punch pin type connections were black from overheating when I removed them. Everything works now.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Thanks man. I will locate the connector stuff i need. I think theres a big yellow/orange cap i am supposed to replce at the bottom of the cabinet too.

#4 8 years ago

Yeah, that's always a good idea. Have you replaced the caps on your sound board yet? That's also a good thing to do if you haven't, any electrolytic caps on the sound board should have this done since they tend to dry out with time.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Quoted from rcbrown316:

Thanks man. I will locate the connector stuff i need. I think theres a big yellow/orange cap i am supposed to replce at the bottom of the cabinet too.

#5 8 years ago

i just placed an order here for a bunch of stuff:
http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gott_PrePinball.htm

Qty (2) CAGS8-A1J1-GNG
Qty (2) COGS8-A6J1
Qty (2) CAGS8-A7J1-T
Qty (2) CAGS5-A1J4-K
Qty (2) BAT2341-N-G8
Qty (2) 028-682-260-2L

I will report back with the results.

RB

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Yeah, that's always a good idea. Have you replaced the caps on your sound board yet? That's also a good thing to do if you haven't, they're all electrolytic caps and they tend to dry out with time.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

I have not. I cant seem to find a list of what to order and I dont want to go pull them all out to find out and my paginated pdf sucks with regards to part #'s and values. Got any shortcuts for me?

#7 8 years ago

There are 6 electrolytic caps that should be replaced on the sound/speech board, especially if they've never been done. Replace C3 (47mfd 50V), C36 (470mfd 35V), C38 (47mfd 50V), C39 (47mfd 50V), C40 (47mfd 50V), C41 (47mfd 50V) with new radial electrolytic capacitors. Make sure you note which way the ground goes so you don't install them 180 degrees off.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Quoted from rcbrown316:

I have not. I cant seem to find a list of what to order and I dont want to go pull them all out to find out and my paginated pdf sucks with regards to part #'s and values. Got any shortcuts for me?

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

There are 6 caps, that should be replaced on the sound/speech board, especially if they've never been done. Replace C3 (47mfd 50V), C36 (470mfd 35V), C38 (47mfd 50V), C39 (47mfd 50V), C40 (47mfd 50V), C41 (47mfd 50V) with new radial electrolytic capacitors. Make sure you note which way the ground goes so you don't install them 180 degrees off.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

BEAUTIFUL!!! THANKS SO MUCH STEVE!!!

#9 8 years ago

No problem, also be sure you don't overheat those board traces, they're very delicate on the sound boards and easily can lift up.

Steve

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

No problem, also be sure you don't overheat those board traces, they're very delicate on the sound boards and easily can lift up.

Ditto! Especially the gang of 4 47uf caps near the connector. They seem like they are glued onto the board. Tough to get off cleanly.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 8 years ago

LOL. I ALREADY DID THAT ON THE EDGE CONNECTOR TRACES

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

i just placed an order here for a bunch of stuff:
http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gott_PrePinball.htm
Qty (2) CAGS8-A1J1-GNG
Qty (2) COGS8-A6J1
Qty (2) CAGS8-A7J1-T
Qty (2) CAGS5-A1J4-K
Qty (2) BAT2341-N-G8
Qty (2) 028-682-260-2L
I will report back with the results.
RB

replaced the edge connector on the sound board and rebuilt the big connector between mpu and driver board. still no sound during gameplay or test mode but oddly it does play sound in attract. I suspect I may have damaged a trace but after a quick visual and continuity test things dont look bad going from those edge pads to the nearest component. I have not put it under the magnifying glass yet though. any thoughts regarding when the sound plays? I have the sound board caps on order so I havent replaced them yet but I dont suspect they are the probelm since I had sound before I uhhhhh "fixed" it. also I do have a black hole with what appears to have the same sound board. can I swap it in without changing the chips to troubleshoot with the understanding that the sounds will be different or will I just ruin that too?

RB
"System 80, I want to smash it into little pieces"

#13 8 years ago

Some things that can stop a sound board from working during game play.

1. A1J4 to A3J1 connection issues, bifurcon crimps in this connector can get damaged during alkaline leakage from the battery, also, a lot of removal of the connector can sometimes break a crimp if it's old and brittle.
2. Bad Z13 on the driver board, all sound line outputs from this IC must be high going out to the sound board for it to run during start and game play.
3. Bad C31 on the CPU board, a locked on gate here will turn off a sound line at the sound board during start of a game.
4. Bad IDC punch pin connector clips at the sound board, these tend to overheat and die at the wires. If the sound board is working correctly and the game can't be told that it's playing a game, all you'll hear are the attract sounds during a game. Sometimes, the CPU on the sound board will get confused and shut off to protect itself, then all sounds stop.
5. Bad capacitor on the sound board, caps can act differently with temperature changes, summer, they can act fine because they're pre heated and the gas inside expands. Cold days are when they start to act up. Moving a game from inside a warm house to a cold garage will sometiimes uncover a bad cap.
6. Bad IC on the sound board itself, swapping it into a different game will tell if the problem is here. If the problem follows the board, then troubleshooting the board is needed. Be sure all socketed IC's have been reseated, the legs are inserted and IC's are facing the correct direction.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Some things that can stop a sound board from working during game play.
1. A1J4 to A3J1 connection issues, bifurcon crimps in this connector can get damaged during alkaline leakage from the battery.
2. Bad Z13 on the driver board, all sound line outputs from this IC must be high going out to the sound board for it to run during start and game play.
3. Bad C31 on the CPU board, a locked on gate here will turn off a sound line at the sound board during start of a game.
4. Bad capacitor on the sound board, caps can act differently with temperature changes, summer, they can act fine because they're pre heated and the gas inside expands. Cold days are when they start to act up.
5. Bad IC on the sound board itself, swapping it into a different game will tell if the problem is here. If the problem follows the board, then troubleshooting the board is needed. Be sure all socketed IC's have been reseated, the legs are inserted and IC's are facing the correct direction.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

holy cow man. whatever the outcome is here. I owe you a few beverages of your choice. pinside is awesome. really appreciate the direction!

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Some things that can stop a sound board from working during game play.
1. A1J4 to A3J1 connection issues, bifurcon crimps in this connector can get damaged during alkaline leakage from the battery.
2. Bad Z13 on the driver board, all sound line outputs from this IC must be high going out to the sound board for it to run during start and game play.
3. Bad C31 on the CPU board, a locked on gate here will turn off a sound line at the sound board during start of a game.
4. Bad capacitor on the sound board, caps can act differently with temperature changes, summer, they can act fine because they're pre heated and the gas inside expands. Cold days are when they start to act up.
5. Bad IC on the sound board itself, swapping it into a different game will tell if the problem is here. If the problem follows the board, then troubleshooting the board is needed. Be sure all socketed IC's have been reseated, the legs are inserted and IC's are facing the correct direction.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

I think i forgot to mention there is a niwumph mpu in there

#16 8 years ago

It shouldn't matter with most of my list, the exception would be #3. I added another to the list (#4) that I forgot about, also been cleaning up my posts to make more sense (spelling and punctuation errors) to any that search out this thread later.

Steve

Quoted from rcbrown316:

I think i forgot to mention there is a niwumph mpu in there

#17 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

It shouldn't matter with most of my list, the exception would be #3. I added another to the list (#4) that I forgot about, also been cleaning up my posts to make more sense (spelling and punctuation errors) to any that search out this thread later.
Steve

hey steve. i swapped sound boards with black hole without swapping any chips. the no-sound issue followed the board into the bklack hole and the black hole board did mahe one sound when a game was initiated. caps are coming tuesday. i just ordered a schwemmer sound and speech board from k's arcade without thinking whether or not it would play nice with the niwumph mpu. any idea on that? also I still would like to fix the original board so I will replace the caps when they come in. if it's not those then I will likely send it to someone. I know k's does that too.

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

It shouldn't matter with most of my list, the exception would be #3. I added another to the list (#4) that I forgot about, also been cleaning up my posts to make more sense (spelling and punctuation errors) to any that search out this thread later.
Steve

this thing is kicking my ass. no audio in game play but has attract sounds. put the swemmer audio board in. same thing. swapped driver board, same thing. swapped what looks to be a power supply (top left board), same thing. rebuilt A1J4 to A3J, same thing. rebuilt A6 edge connector, same thing. pushed all the wires into all trifurcon connections in backbox, same thing

was going to swap mpus as they are both niwumph but it looks like I need program those things with an rs 232 cable. I'm kinda baffled at this point and probably need to somehow learn exactly how this thing works rather than re loading the shotgun with parts and continuing to blast away... or just put both barrels in my mouth

#19 8 years ago

Do you know someone near you that will let you test your sound board in their game to see if all sound lines are working? It sounds like the sound board is stuck in attract mode or the CPU isn't telling the board to play any of the sound triggers during game play.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Do you know someone near you that will let you test your sound board in their game to see if all sound lines are working? It sounds like the sound board is stuck in attract mode or the CPU isn't telling the board to play any of the sound triggers during game play.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

unfortunately not. i could probably sway the roms with my black hole but I figured the new swemmer board would rule out the old sound board when it did the same thing. the only thing I have not changed is the cpu. it had sound before I decided to "fix" it lol. prior to that it was intermittent and wiggling the edge connector on the sound card triggered symptoms/no symptoms relative to the current state.

1 week later
#21 7 years ago

SWAPPED IN NEW ROTTENDOG MPU. SAME ISSUE. GONNA TRY CHECKING THE GROUND ON THE SOUND BOARD

2 weeks later
#22 7 years ago

ok now I smoked z13 and the niwumph mpu so now i have a rottendog driver board and mpu along with the swemmer audio module. that is indicating I am missing 12 volts and 30 volts via the board mounted leds so there's no sound at all. I'm not sure where those are derived from and the pdf manual i have is terribly incomplete so two questtions. if iz order the manual from steve young will it be complete and/or do you know where to check for the 12 and 30 volts supplies? all fuses seem to be good.

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