(Topic ID: 315723)

Radical! No solenoids working, help needed please

By Chosen_S

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Chosen_S
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Need a little help please

I’ve lost all solenoids and flashers. I’ve done several searches here and the web with no definite path to fix this issue.

Q7 on the aux board is good, I tested the tab to ground and the AC relay is not switching.

What else do I look for?

Thank you for any help

#2 1 year ago

Q33 is good

#3 1 year ago

Fuses test good on the Auxiliary Power Board?

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from chad:

Fuses test good on the Auxiliary Power Board?

Yes, all fuses good, pulled them individually

In fact, all fuses in the backbox are good.

All voltages on the power board are good.

#5 1 year ago

Could be bad solder joints on the A/C select relay.

#6 1 year ago

Do you have voltage on on your coils? Tested the fuse on the underside of the playfield?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Do you have voltage on on your coils? Tested the fuse on the underside of the playfield?

There is correct voltage on the coils

Where is the fuse located? I looked all over, I know this machine pretty well, isn’t the fuse for the flippers?.... I’ll look again

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Where is the fuse located? I looked all over, I know this machine pretty well, isn’t the fuse for the flippers?.... I’ll look again

Several system 11 games have a fuse other than at the flippers. I am really not sure Radical did so took a shot asking about it. Made you look. haha

Earthshaker has a fuse near the pop bumpers.

Since you have voltage at all your coils, fuses should all be good anyway.

#9 1 year ago

Shouldn't you be trying to short Q8 to ground on the MPU?
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I have seen bad relays before where I had to tap on the outer case to make them work and were not solder related issues.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Shouldn't you be trying to short Q8 to ground on the MPU?
[quoted image]
I have seen bad relays before where I had to tap on the outer case to make them work and were not solder related issues.

I've had to pull the case off and move them , then they worked fine.

#11 1 year ago

Sometimes you can adjust the contact switches in the relay if they are not burnt.

#12 1 year ago

Came home to test this, i grounded Q8 on the mpu and the relay 1 on the auxiliary board does switch.

I held it in place and started a game and no balls kick out to the shooter lane and I have no flippers. I imagine that none of the coils are being allowed to operate

My displays are also only showing two digits on each display.

Some of my feature lamps or not operating as well., The ones that are operating, Are very dim.

#13 1 year ago

Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

#14 1 year ago
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#15 1 year ago

This is sounding like your issue. C58 1uf axial 25v electrolytic
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Also, replace C30, 22uf 25v axial electrolytic, as it can cause intermittent PIA failures during bootup.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

This is sounding like your issue. C58 1uf axial 25v electrolytic
[quoted image]
Also, replace C30, 22uf 25v axial electrolytic, as it can cause intermittent PIA failures during bootup.

Thank you, I’ll try this and report back. I hope this solves the issue, I’ve had messed up displays on and off for a while as well, but this sounds too good to be true lol, and too close to the earthshaker issue the other fellow had!

#17 1 year ago

That C58 was trashed, looks like it’s been replaced before

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#18 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

This is sounding like your issue. C58 1uf axial 25v electrolytic
[quoted image]
Also, replace C30, 22uf 25v axial electrolytic, as it can cause intermittent PIA failures during bootup.

This was the exact fix

Thank you PinballManiac40 ! Great find!!

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

This was the exact fix

Very nice. If it is still working, please consider marking this thread as resolved at the top of the thread.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

That C58 was trashed, looks like it’s been replaced before
[quoted image]

This cap shouldn't be an electolytic cap. It needs to be a tantalum cap for a more precise timing circuit.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This cap shouldn't be an electolytic cap. It needs to be a tantalum cap for a more precise timing circuit.

What value should the tantalum cab be here?
1uf,25v, or 50v?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

What value should the tantalum cab be here?
1uf,25v

This is what should be in the game. 50 volt rating is fine too. Remember this cap is polarity sensitive.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is what should be in the game. 50 volt rating is fine too. Remember this cap is polarity sensitive.

Thank you, I think the old cap went bad after replacement because it wasn’t spec.

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