Yo,

Just joined the club, with a real project pin. Super stoked because this one was on my wishlist. The playfield is really rough, lower half has no mylar/clear left and a lot of paint is gone. Gonna restore everything except the playfield, too much work and it will still play great, hoping for a reproduction playfield somewhere in the future.

Anyway, what is the recommended flipper setup? I see all variations, 4x carrot, carrot at the bottom and normal at the upper, all normal flippers.

I really wish CPR would let us/ Me know what the go is.
I am being patient, but hey, this is Pinball

4x yellow carrot is the OEM spec. Mine had all different flips on it when I bought the game.

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Thanks! I luckily ordered four, hehe

Joined the club...SN in the 800's...almost no pf wear on this one - super happy.
I guess not many of these in Switzerland.

Any cool mods available?
Soren ROM also posible to get as file (will pay for it of course).

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Tear down and deep cleaning has begun on game #83. Playfield is not finished yet as I have only made it to the pop bumpers, lower 3/4 buffed out. Playfield looks great for it age, minor wear on a few inserts, it has cleaned up very well. What was odd about this is that the playfield seemed to have a overspray of something (maybe yellow paint) all over and I had to use rubbing alcohol and a micro fiber cloth to hand scrub it all off before buffing the playfield. New ramps have been ordered from Freeplay40. Really looking forward to getting it all back together and cleaning up the wiring hacks that came with it.
Before and After pictures attached.

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DP playfield...most excellent! The colors look nice and vibrant!

Rarest of the rare in the the diamond plated model
CONGRATS

I played this radical. I want!

Is there anyone who has spare Radical playfield decals? Specifically in need of the "Extra Ball" and the 5x multiplier decals.

ebay.com link: itm

Is it worth it, applying those insert decals?

You have to clearcoat and sand the over them, right?

when you have no other option , yes.
check pictures earlier in thread i posted when i did it.

Looking for a little assistance. If anyone has a Radical that is easily accessible and can take a picture of this Relay Board (C-11998-1) which is attached to the backside of the display panel (insert assembly). I am looking to find out where the wire positions go on the 7 pin plug that attaches to the relay. I believe the wire colors are green and brown. Thank you if you are able to assist.

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That’s just the GI relay. The pins should all have identical voltage. If you want to see the technical correct wire order though, check connector J10 on your interconnect. The connector size will be different for keying purposes but the wire position can be followed on the insert board connection

@Jmckune, not sure if I am following your comment correctly.
Took a look at J10 on the interconnect and it does not have the corresponding wires that go to the relay (green & brown). I attached a picture of what J10 has.
The (green & brown) wires attach to J7 which is a 10pin connector on interconnect and those two wires go to the relay board which has a 7 pin connector.
If I understand you correctly, it does not matter where the green & brown wires are connected to the relay board?

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Apologies. I looked at a photo and what said pin 10 I was mistaking for J10. The correct connector is J7. Here are photos of the connector from a different game of the same generation

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Okay, thank you for the clarification.
Looked at the picture you sent and repinned the connector. Also found two cold solder joints on the back of the relay board and took care of those.
Back up and running properly

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Hi All,

Wanted to ask about manufacture manuals. How often, if at anytime, have some of you found the manuals to be wrong for wiring or simply the machine was wired wrong at the factory?

I am currently working on a Bally Radical and have been working through many issues. What surprised me is I have found that a couple connectors (that appear to be original) have wires that are in the wrong position on the connector after reviewing the manual.

Example:
For the Interconnect Board:
J12 position 5 manual states BRN-GRY wire, mine is wired with a BRN-VIO wire
J12 position 6 manual states BRN-VIO wire, mine is wired with a BRN-GRY wire
J12 position 11 manual states BLK-GRN wire, mine is wired with a BLK-BLU wire
J12 position 12 manual states BLK-BLU wire, mine is wired with a BLK-GRN wire
J11 position 3 manual states BLK-ORN wire, mine is wired with a BRN-ORG wire

I have been trying to get weak flippers working (not successful yet) and I noticed when the left flipper button was pushed that multiple flashers in the backbox (6 of them) would flash. I knew this was not right so started some investigating when I found this connector plug issue. I am wondering if I should place the wires in the pin position where the manual states? Any idea on this?

Thank you for any assistance.

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I think it was the change from sys11 to WPC. But hey, I’ve been wrong before.

Anyone with a diamond plate looking to sell?

Your wiring is correct as is.
Weak Flippers? - check the EOS switch and check for any binding in the mech. They may need to be rebuilt or just EOS switch cleaning/adjustment.

Just rebuilt all four flipper mechs and have adjusted the eos numerous times, still all flippers are weak. I am getting 39.1V to the flippers and it didn't make sense to me the flashers in the backbox would flash when the left flipper button is pressed. I am confident that there is a wiring issue and wanted to confirm with the wire placement that I have on this Radical before diving a bit deeper. I appreciate the feedback as this clarifies that the wire positions are correct even though they do not match with the manual. I am sure I will be posting a bit more when I dive a bit deeper into the issue. Thank you again.

The flipper causing flashers to activate is normal if you have installed all LED flashers. This is a design issue with the aux power driver. You can choose to modify the aux power driver or install at least 1 incandescent flasher on 1C 2C 3C and 4C. When you did your flipper rebuild, did you file the EOS switches at all? You are required to clean off a film on the new ones that makes the contact poor

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48VAC => ~70VDC

After being in pinball for over 10 years I was not aware of filing down a new eos so this was not done, learn something new everyday in this hobby I will be filing them today to see if I get any kind of change.

No LED flashers are installed, only incandescent flashers. I do have LED in the GI, if that would cause the same issue.

DumbAss

Aux Power Driver in this game is D-12247-566

The picture you sent looks like a D-12247-574, I noticed ac blower motor so this is probably a Whirlwind power driver which I am sure you are aware.

Not sure if it makes a difference, probably not, looking at the Radical manual it looks the same. If I am following what you have highlighted, would it be wrong for me to state that BR2 may have an issue?

It does not. This stuff is all the same between the 11B/11C machines that use this board. I normally try to use the game manual that corresponds to the game being discussed but the PDF for this game that is available to download on IPDB is incomplete. Under these circumstances, I am forced to use a different manual but it almost always never makes a difference. In general, it's the (electrical) principle that matters.

I would measure things to be sure.

• I know it sounds stupid but I would check the fuses for anything related to the flippers on that board. Test them in isolation (pull one end). Alternatively, test them without the connectors inserted on the board.
• Check the VAC (ripple) as well the VDC (output).
• Diode test the bridge rectifier.

Once you have that information, you can make a more informed decision on the path forward. Of course, you can just shotgun the bridge rectifier if you so desire. It's your machine. It's your board. It's your choice.

Led in GI would not cause it. don’t have to file the EOS very much, just enough to get rid of the residue. I have a metal file I slide between and put slight pressure and pull the file once or twice

Fuses were pulled and all checked out fine with the correct amperage. 39VDC at the J8 & J10 connections on the interconnect board (which supplies power to the flippers) Shouldn't this be closer to 50VDC?

Diode test completed on BR2 as well as BR1 and both check out fine, I followed a video by Chris Hibler to make sure I was testing correctly.

No change on the flippers after filing the eos switches and flipper button cabinet switches.

I am not familiar on how to check an AC ripple so will be looking to youtube for a AC ripple test.

is it a forex machine and has7

If you really want one, I would suggest any playfield as CPR are meant to be reproducing. But time frame im not sure?
good luck in the hunt, great game

You can check the VAC coming into the board from the transformer secondary if you're concerned. The VDC will be determined by the VAC. If you measure and report the VAC then you can compute the VDC.

Just set your DMM to VAC when measuring VDC. There should be close to zero VAC on the supply.

Update on the weak flipper issue....

I pulled the Aux Power Supply out and replaced it with one from my Diner. Flippers now have full power and work as they should so the problem was within the Aux Power Supply.

What would I need to test on the Aux Power Supply to find out which part will need to be replaced on the Aux Power Supply?

Maybe something like he had here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-diner-system-11-weak-left-flipper
And check fuses for the right value also...F5/F6 -> 2A SB

Aux board sent out for repair but pin is running great with the Diner aux board.
New ramps from Freeplay40 and all wiring hacks have been repaired (there were many). Game is a blast to play, new to me.
Couple questions:
1. Where does this clear plastic go? Attached pic.
2. Diverter up top, when "skate or die" is flashing to lock a ball through the left ramp, as soon as the left ramp shot is made and hits the switch on the ramp the diverter pops down then immediately back up before ball is diverted to the lock ball (snake pit) area. Is that normal?
I can lock a ball when "skate or die" is flashing through the snake pit shot and the bust a move ramp.
I pulled the diverter mech and it appears to be working properly with manual operation.
Happy to have found a gem and it was fun getting it back to running to it's former glory

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Hey all..

I'm a non owner but would like to let you all know about a wireform for the machine, in particular the prototype machine.

A fellow pinsider got in contact who was hoping I'd be able to make the wireform that fed the ball back onto the ramp after it had disappeared into a tunnel. I currently make several wireforms for various machines, so it seemed like I'd be able to make something.

The biggest hurdle was finding a donor wireform to be able to copy. No such luck, however blubboman managed to draw up a file and 3d print it for a check measurement. He then sent that file to me, I had it 3D printed and then built a jig using the 3D model. After building the jig, I could then build a steel wireform using the jig.

So.. this is where we are up to at the moment.

Reason for the post, is to gauge interest in how many people would be interested in purchasing the wireform (as I haven't a clue as to how many to initially build) to take their pin back to prototype layout.

Yes, there'd a bit more work installing the subway (easily 3D printed or fashioned from other subway ramps) along with some wiring etc, however from what I have seen there is a YT video that explains it fairly comprehensively.

So.. if you're genuinely interested, please feel free to send me a message and I'll add you to my list.

Pricing isn't confirmed just yet, but probably around $280AUD plus shipping. They'll be chrome plated of course.

I've included a few pics below.

Thanks for your support.

Https://pinball.avidcreations.com.au

David.

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That plastic sits on top of the divertor.

CPR told me 4-5 months, that was 2 months ago. So it should be coming fairly soon!

I picked up a DP radical a couple months ago, and just getting into this thread. I’ve installed the Soren roms. But WOW… the vuk! And the third sling? Any instructions/part numbers/tips on how to install/order these parts? My pf has the gobble hole behind the snake target and the removable plastic for the vuk.

I'm going to try and get something together. The original VUK isn't really available but I think alternatives can work ok. The slingshot is typical from system 11 (or probably anything Williams really) so that should be easier. Right now, ROMs have to go back to prototype since all the logic for these mechs was removed in production. It's probably possible to make updates to the prototype ROMs like Soren's update to production ROMs but that's beyond my capability!

A quick update.

The wireforms are in being plated at the moment. They should be ready to ship next week. If anyone is interested, please let me know. I've only built two, and both are sold. I'll make more if anyone is keen.

Check back through this thread, several of us have done the surgery to put the vuk and sling back in and do use the soren roms.

I installed the VUK about a year ago and documented everything here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/radical-club-only-skaters-welcome/page/21#post-7497236

I hope to hear from CPR soon then re new playfield .
Super excited

Me too! Although I've got a MM and TAF both in restoration queue so not much cash ready at the moment for a new playfield. I am especially keen on how well CPR will get the neon colors. I pray that they don't go with a red or something else like that reproduction sideart has.

If anyone would like to emulate DuffysArcade and build the VUK mod, then the wireforms are done. One less hassle having to find the correct wireform. You'll still need to find all the other necessary parts to complete the mod.

Just send me a message and I'll build these to order.

Cheers

David

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