So WoZ ECLE is kind of a loud machine in a home environment. It has 5 fans (ATX power supply, switching power supply, CPU fan, Metal case fan, and Monitor fan), and all are moderate to loud. However, you can replace the two loudest fans and SUBSTANTIALLY cut the noise from the machine. The original run 720P Wells-Gardner monitor ECLEs are the worst for noise. Fortunately, both fans can be replaced with the same type of fan. I finally got around to doing it, and it's highly recommended.
The Noctua NF-A8 is the one you want. Get two from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMG62M/
The Noctua fan has control lines for temperature controlled speeds, but neither WoZ fan connection uses it, so you'll only need to use two of the four leads on the fan.
Use these:
Black - GND
Yellow - 12V
Cut these off:
Green - Sense line
Blue - Control line
One fan goes on the upper left side of the metal box in the bottom of the WoZ cabinet. The other goes on the back right of the Wells Gardner monitor in the head. The CFM of this fan without the speed control lead is actually higher than the stock fan, but the noise is only about 15% as much. You'll be amazed how much quieter this is with just these two fans replaced.
I'll give you a step by step with pictures on replacing the fan on the back of the monitor, which is the slightly more involved one of the two.
For your reference, the stock fan in the 720P Wells Gardner monitor is an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL:
Product Category: DC Fans
Product: DC Fans
Type: Axial
Frame Dimensions - mm: 80 mm L x 25 mm W x 80 mm H
Operating Supply Voltage: 12 VDC
Airflow: 31.4 CFM
Speed: 2440 RPM
Pressure Type: 2.8 mmAq
Bearing Type: Ball
Noise: 28.3 dBA <---------------------- VERY LOUD
Power Rating: 1.8 W
Housing Material: Plastic
Termination Style: Wire Leads
Series: AD 80x15
Height: 80 mm
Length: 80 mm
Width: 25 mm
First, remove the backglass and expose the monitor and monitor control board. The monitor control board in this picture has to be taken off because the cable isn't long enough when you lay the monitor flat in front of the head. Remove the two screws pointed to with the arrows and save them for later.
000_monitor_control_board (resized).jpg
Now, remove the 5 screws each on the left and right side of the monitor (right side pictured below), leaving the top left and top right screws for last, and supporting the monitor as you remove those so it doesn't fall.
When all the screws are removed, let the monitor come forward and lay flat on the top of the backglass. You should be able to see the label on the back now and the large fan on the right side. This tutorial is for the 720P Wells Gardner monitors from most of the ECLE machines in the 2013/2014 timeframe.
00_monitor_tag (resized).jpg
Next, you need to remove the two screws from the fan (noted with the arrows) and the 11 screws from the cover right next to the fan. The screw locations are noted in the next pictures.
01_case_screws_0 (resized).jpg
02_case_screws_1 (resized).jpg
03_case_screws_2 (resized).jpg
04_case_screws_3 (resized).jpg
Now you can remove the large cover with the 11 screws and set it aside. Then lift the fan and flip it over. It is likely an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL or something similar to what was in mine. And it's VERY VERY LOUD.
05_original_fan (resized).jpg
Note that the wire from the fan goes into the LCD housing and comes out a bit away ending at a molex connector. Excellent. [Optional: Use a sharpie to mark the side of the white plug with the black wire with a - and the side of the white plug with the red wire with a + so you know where to put the black - and yellow + wires from the new fan once you have the new male molex connectors crimped on, preventing mistakes.] Unplug the two halves, freeing the fan.
06_fan_off (resized).jpg
You will need some male molex connectors for the fan wire to replace the wires from the fan you're removing. Here's the part from digikey with the part number you'll need to order:
07_connector_pic (resized).jpg
The fan adapter that comes with the new fan has 4 leads, but you don't need the sense or control lead, so you can cut the green and blue wires and pull them through the tubing, then discard, leaving you with the yellow and black wires.
08_connector_wires_to_cut (resized).jpg
Use this molex-removal tool (available from Amazon here if you don't have one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094MIS9U ) to remove both original male molex connectors from the old fan from the white plastic connector housing. Then crimp two molex male connectors to the new fan extension and snap them into the old white plastic housing NOTING THE ORIENTATION so you don't get a black wire going to the yellow lead on the other side and vice versa. You want to end up with black to black and yellow to yellow when the molex connector is put back on.
09_removal_tool (resized).jpg
Put all the screws back in the case, check the orientation of the fan (label side down so air blows INTO the monitor), and screw the two fan screws in. All done!
10_all_done (resized).jpg
The remaining loud stock fan in the lower cabinet on the upper left side of the metal box is a Jamicon JF0825S1M-R is much easier, with just two screws on the fan to remove and the molex connector to re-do. You should be able to do it on your own from here. You did the hard one!
Jamicon JF0825S1M-R specs:
Frame : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Impeller : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Rated Voltage: 12v
Speed Range : ±10%
Bearing type: Sleeve
CFM: 32.41
RPM: 2500
Input current: 0.13A
Watts: 1.56
Nominal current: 0.15A
dBA: 28.8 <------------------TOO LOUD
Colgate, WI
