(Topic ID: 225620)

Quieting down a WoZ ECLE machine


By vireland

1 year ago



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  • 16 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 17 Pinsiders

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10
#1 1 year ago

So WoZ ECLE is kind of a loud machine in a home environment. It has 5 fans (ATX power supply, switching power supply, CPU fan, Metal case fan, and Monitor fan), and all are moderate to loud. However, you can replace the two loudest fans and SUBSTANTIALLY cut the noise from the machine. The original run 720P Wells-Gardner monitor ECLEs are the worst for noise. Fortunately, both fans can be replaced with the same type of fan. I finally got around to doing it, and it's highly recommended.

The Noctua NF-A8 is the one you want. Get two from Amazon:
amazon.com link »

The Noctua fan has control lines for temperature controlled speeds, but neither WoZ fan connection uses it, so you'll only need to use two of the four leads on the fan.

Use these:
Black - GND
Yellow - 12V

Cut these off:
Green - Sense line
Blue - Control line

One fan goes on the upper left side of the metal box in the bottom of the WoZ cabinet. The other goes on the back right of the Wells Gardner monitor in the head. The CFM of this fan without the speed control lead is actually higher than the stock fan, but the noise is only about 15% as much. You'll be amazed how much quieter this is with just these two fans replaced.

I'll give you a step by step with pictures on replacing the fan on the back of the monitor, which is the slightly more involved one of the two.

For your reference, the stock fan in the 720P Wells Gardner monitor is an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL:
Product Category: DC Fans
Product: DC Fans
Type: Axial
Frame Dimensions - mm: 80 mm L x 25 mm W x 80 mm H
Operating Supply Voltage: 12 VDC
Airflow: 31.4 CFM <---------------------- VERY LOUD
Speed: 2440 RPM
Pressure Type: 2.8 mmAq
Bearing Type: Ball
Noise: 28.3 dBA
Power Rating: 1.8 W
Housing Material: Plastic
Termination Style: Wire Leads
Series: AD 80x15
Height: 80 mm
Length: 80 mm
Width: 25 mm

First, remove the backglass and expose the monitor and monitor control board. The monitor control board in this picture has to be taken off because the cable isn't long enough when you lay the monitor flat in front of the head. Remove the two screws pointed to with the arrows and save them for later.
000_monitor_control_board (resized).jpg

Now, remove the 5 screws each on the left and right side of the monitor (right side pictured below), leaving the top left and top right screws for last, and supporting the monitor as you remove those so it doesn't fall.

monitor-side (resized).jpg

When all the screws are removed, let the monitor come forward and lay flat on the top of the backglass. You should be able to see the label on the back now and the large fan on the right side. This tutorial is for the 720P Wells Gardner monitors from most of the ECLE machines in the 2013/2014 timeframe.
00_monitor_tag (resized).jpg

Next, you need to remove the two screws from the fan (noted with the arrows) and the 11 screws from the cover right next to the fan. The screw locations are noted in the next pictures.
01_case_screws_0 (resized).jpg
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04_case_screws_3 (resized).jpg

Now you can remove the large cover with the 11 screws and set it aside. Then lift the fan and flip it over. It is likely an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL or something similar to what was in mine. And it's VERY VERY LOUD.
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Note that the wire from the fan goes into the LCD housing and comes out a bit away ending at a molex connector. Excellent. [Optional: Use a sharpie to mark the side of the white plug with the black wire with a - and the side of the white plug with the red wire with a + so you know where to put the black - and yellow + wires from the new fan once you have the new male molex connectors crimped on, preventing mistakes.] Unplug the two halves, freeing the fan.
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You will need some male molex connectors for the fan wire to replace the wires from the fan you're removing. Here's the part from digikey with the part number you'll need to order:
07_connector_pic (resized).jpg

The fan adapter that comes with the new fan has 4 leads, but you don't need the sense or control lead, so you can cut the green and blue wires and pull them through the tubing, then discard, leaving you with the yellow and black wires.
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Use this molex-removal tool (available from Amazon here if you don't have one: amazon.com link » ) to remove both original male molex connectors from the old fan from the white plastic connector housing. Then crimp two molex male connectors to the new fan extension and snap them into the old white plastic housing NOTING THE ORIENTATION so you don't get a black wire going to the yellow lead on the other side and vice versa. You want to end up with black to black and yellow to yellow when the molex connector is put back on.
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Put all the screws back in the case, check the orientation of the fan (label side down so air blows INTO the monitor), and screw the two fan screws in. All done!
10_all_done (resized).jpg

The remaining loud stock fan in the lower cabinet on the upper left side of the metal box is a Jamicon JF0825S1M-R is much easier, with just two screws on the fan to remove and the molex connector to re-do. You should be able to do it on your own from here. You did the hard one!

Jamicon JF0825S1M-R specs:
Frame : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Impeller : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Rated Voltage: 12v
Speed Range : ±10%
Bearing type: Sleeve
CFM: 32.41
RPM: 2500
Input current: 0.13A
Watts: 1.56
Nominal current: 0.15A
dBA: 28.8 <------------------TOO LOUD

#2 1 year ago

OK you’re making the rest of us look bad please stop being so helpful all the time

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

OK you’re making the rest of us look bad please stop being so helpful all the time

Haha. Just documenting what I do to pins here to make them better and pulling you jokers along for the ride if you're willing!

#4 1 year ago

I replaced mine and added extra ventilation fans to the rear vent holes in the cabinet. Noctua ones.

#5 1 year ago

great intel....I've noticed the same thing on mine !

1 week later
#6 1 year ago

Finished the job, and added the pictures and links to tools and supplies to do it. Makes the machine SO MUCH quieter. Almost makes me want to replace the ATX fan and the switching power supply fan...almost.

4 months later
#7 8 months ago

Iwonder if some of the same things could be used on DI / POTC

#8 8 months ago

After replacing all my fans in Stern Spike games, my WOZ RR is now by far the noisiest. Does anyone know if these same parts are applicable to WOZ RR?

#9 8 months ago
Quoted from twenty84:

After replacing all my fans in Stern Spike games, my WOZ RR is now by far the noisiest. Does anyone know if these same parts are applicable to WOZ RR?

The same fan can be used for the metal box in the cabinet, but I don't know what monitor they're using for the LCD in the head of the RR WOZ, so that fan MAY be different. If you end up opening yours up, please post what you find with a picture of the fan and I'll add a yea or nay to the OP for RR owners.

#10 8 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Iwonder if some of the same things could be used on DI / POTC

Dialed In has different fans. I actually replaced the one in the head of that one, too, but I don't remember if I documented it here.

Here's the before and after for the fan in the head of DI. The changeout is made a little harder due to the fact that JJP is using the wrong bolts for this.

Fan Connector_small (resized).jpgOriginal Fan_small (resized).jpgReplacement Fan_small (resized).jpg
1 week later
#11 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

The same fan can be used for the metal box in the cabinet, but I don't know what monitor they're using for the LCD in the head of the RR WOZ, so that fan MAY be different. If you end up opening yours up, please post what you find with a picture of the fan and I'll add a yea or nay to the OP for RR owners.

Did anybody end up doing this? I just rejoined the club, moving out IMDN which went from jet engine to whisper quiet thanks to Vic’s fan - and man the WOZRR sure is noticeably loud! The head fans seem like stock 120mm computer fans - are those what’s making all the noise?

4 weeks later
#12 7 months ago

Replying so I can find this thread later if need be lol

2 months later
#13 4 months ago

Did this mod tonight, couple notes:

Plan on cutting the existing fan wires and splicing to the new fans with heat shrink instead of re-pinning the molex. It’s what I ended up doing on the cabinet fan because the plug is different. Also the Digi-Key part I ordered for the monitor fan, same as OP posted, was such a tight fit into the molex they won’t fit all the way and it can’t be the right thing. Maybe they sent me the wrong ones. I may end up re-doing it as a splice with the original fan’s pins.

The backbox monitor is a heavy sun of a beach. Use a drill for the nine screws, I mean bolts, holding it in or it'll take you a week with a screw driver.

As for getting the cabinet fan out and put back in, I found that a ratcheting 1/4 inch drive tool was just the trick (see pictures). I don’t think theres any easier way unless you removed the whole PC box, and I can’t imagine how much fun that would be just to remove and replace 4 fan screws in tight quarters.

The cabinet fan goes label out, so the fan blows out of the PC box.

Six pack of beer on Pints & Pinball the mod difficulty skill meter and a noticeable reduction in noise!
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#14 4 months ago

Anyone knows if RR edition uses the same monitor ?

#15 4 months ago

There are several monitors in play throughout WOZ history. In general - and please, guys I know that your particular WOZ is the exception but that’s anecdotal and doesn’t invalidate what I’m going to write here - in general the ECLE green games have either a 110v Wells G or a 110v Happ controls monitor and early standard chrome WOZ have either one depending on the build date. Ruby 75ths came later and by the time they did, the Wells were gone and the Happ 110v were almost gone for the most part. After that there were 2 or 3 12vdc monitors in use and the suppliers changed back and forth during WOZ and then hobbit builds (hobbit 3/2016 and beyond). I believe.a select few early 75ths have 110v AC monitors but they are in Europe not the continental USA. So I’m general 75ths have 12vdc monitors of a couple styles and many standard chromes have 12v panel monitors. Except for YBRs which have the newer cabinet and pivoting monitor, that’s the deal with WOZ games as built.

2 weeks later
#16 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

There are several monitors in play throughout WOZ history. In general - and please, guys I know that your particular WOZ is the exception but that’s anecdotal and doesn’t invalidate what I’m going to write here - in general the ECLE green games have either a 110v Wells G or a 110v Happ controls monitor and early standard chrome WOZ have either one depending on the build date. Ruby 75ths came later and by the time they did, the Wells were gone and the Happ 110v were almost gone for the most part. After that there were 2 or 3 12vdc monitors in use and the suppliers changed back and forth during WOZ and then hobbit builds (hobbit 3/2016 and beyond). I believe.a select few early 75ths have 110v AC monitors but they are in Europe not the continental USA. So I’m general 75ths have 12vdc monitors of a couple styles and many standard chromes have 12v panel monitors. Except for YBRs which have the newer cabinet and pivoting monitor, that’s the deal with WOZ games as built.

Thanks for posting this! I know Stern doesn't care (their machines are MUCH louder because of one crappy power supply fan), but it would be great if JJP focused just a little more on the dB of the fans in their machines to get them to silent or almost silent. Anecdotally, it SEEMS like jjPotC is quieter, but it may just be masked by the massive noise of the map wheel. But to have a manufacturer that is putting noise reduction of the standing machine in the mix when designing them would be refreshing.

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