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(Topic ID: 225620)

Quieting down a WoZ ECLE machine


By vireland

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 44 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 88 days ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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13
#1 2 years ago

So WoZ ECLE is kind of a loud machine in a home environment. It has 5 fans (ATX power supply, switching power supply, CPU fan, Metal case fan, and Monitor fan), and all are moderate to loud. However, you can replace the two loudest fans and SUBSTANTIALLY cut the noise from the machine. The original run 720P Wells-Gardner monitor ECLEs are the worst for noise. Fortunately, both fans can be replaced with the same type of fan. I finally got around to doing it, and it's highly recommended.

The Noctua NF-A8 is the one you want. Get two from Amazon:
amazon.com link »

The Noctua fan has control lines for temperature controlled speeds, but neither WoZ fan connection uses it, so you'll only need to use two of the four leads on the fan.

Use these:
Black - GND
Yellow - 12V

Cut these off:
Green - Sense line
Blue - Control line

One fan goes on the upper left side of the metal box in the bottom of the WoZ cabinet. The other goes on the back right of the Wells Gardner monitor in the head. The CFM of this fan without the speed control lead is actually higher than the stock fan, but the noise is only about 15% as much. You'll be amazed how much quieter this is with just these two fans replaced.

I'll give you a step by step with pictures on replacing the fan on the back of the monitor, which is the slightly more involved one of the two.

For your reference, the stock fan in the 720P Wells Gardner monitor is an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL:
Product Category: DC Fans
Product: DC Fans
Type: Axial
Frame Dimensions - mm: 80 mm L x 25 mm W x 80 mm H
Operating Supply Voltage: 12 VDC
Airflow: 31.4 CFM
Speed: 2440 RPM
Pressure Type: 2.8 mmAq
Bearing Type: Ball
Noise: 28.3 dBA <---------------------- VERY LOUD
Power Rating: 1.8 W
Housing Material: Plastic
Termination Style: Wire Leads
Series: AD 80x15
Height: 80 mm
Length: 80 mm
Width: 25 mm

First, remove the backglass and expose the monitor and monitor control board. The monitor control board in this picture has to be taken off because the cable isn't long enough when you lay the monitor flat in front of the head. Remove the two screws pointed to with the arrows and save them for later.
000_monitor_control_board (resized).jpg

Now, remove the 5 screws each on the left and right side of the monitor (right side pictured below), leaving the top left and top right screws for last, and supporting the monitor as you remove those so it doesn't fall.

monitor-side (resized).jpg

When all the screws are removed, let the monitor come forward and lay flat on the top of the backglass. You should be able to see the label on the back now and the large fan on the right side. This tutorial is for the 720P Wells Gardner monitors from most of the ECLE machines in the 2013/2014 timeframe.
00_monitor_tag (resized).jpg

Next, you need to remove the two screws from the fan (noted with the arrows) and the 11 screws from the cover right next to the fan. The screw locations are noted in the next pictures.
01_case_screws_0 (resized).jpg
02_case_screws_1 (resized).jpg
03_case_screws_2 (resized).jpg
04_case_screws_3 (resized).jpg

Now you can remove the large cover with the 11 screws and set it aside. Then lift the fan and flip it over. It is likely an ADDA AD0812MB-A70GL or something similar to what was in mine. And it's VERY VERY LOUD.
05_original_fan (resized).jpg

Note that the wire from the fan goes into the LCD housing and comes out a bit away ending at a molex connector. Excellent. [Optional: Use a sharpie to mark the side of the white plug with the black wire with a - and the side of the white plug with the red wire with a + so you know where to put the black - and yellow + wires from the new fan once you have the new male molex connectors crimped on, preventing mistakes.] Unplug the two halves, freeing the fan.
06_fan_off (resized).jpg

You will need some male molex connectors for the fan wire to replace the wires from the fan you're removing. Here's the part from digikey with the part number you'll need to order:
07_connector_pic (resized).jpg

The fan adapter that comes with the new fan has 4 leads, but you don't need the sense or control lead, so you can cut the green and blue wires and pull them through the tubing, then discard, leaving you with the yellow and black wires.
08_connector_wires_to_cut (resized).jpg

Use this molex-removal tool (available from Amazon here if you don't have one: amazon.com link » ) to remove both original male molex connectors from the old fan from the white plastic connector housing. Then crimp two molex male connectors to the new fan extension and snap them into the old white plastic housing NOTING THE ORIENTATION so you don't get a black wire going to the yellow lead on the other side and vice versa. You want to end up with black to black and yellow to yellow when the molex connector is put back on.
09_removal_tool (resized).jpg

Put all the screws back in the case, check the orientation of the fan (label side down so air blows INTO the monitor), and screw the two fan screws in. All done!
10_all_done (resized).jpg

The remaining loud stock fan in the lower cabinet on the upper left side of the metal box is a Jamicon JF0825S1M-R is much easier, with just two screws on the fan to remove and the molex connector to re-do. You should be able to do it on your own from here. You did the hard one!

Jamicon JF0825S1M-R specs:
Frame : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Impeller : Plastic Material UL 94V-0
Rated Voltage: 12v
Speed Range : ±10%
Bearing type: Sleeve
CFM: 32.41
RPM: 2500
Input current: 0.13A
Watts: 1.56
Nominal current: 0.15A
dBA: 28.8 <------------------TOO LOUD

#2 2 years ago

OK you’re making the rest of us look bad please stop being so helpful all the time

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

OK you’re making the rest of us look bad please stop being so helpful all the time

Haha. Just documenting what I do to pins here to make them better and pulling you jokers along for the ride if you're willing!

#4 2 years ago

I replaced mine and added extra ventilation fans to the rear vent holes in the cabinet. Noctua ones.

#5 2 years ago

great intel....I've noticed the same thing on mine !

1 week later
#6 2 years ago

Finished the job, and added the pictures and links to tools and supplies to do it. Makes the machine SO MUCH quieter. Almost makes me want to replace the ATX fan and the switching power supply fan...almost.

4 months later
#7 1 year ago

Iwonder if some of the same things could be used on DI / POTC

#8 1 year ago

After replacing all my fans in Stern Spike games, my WOZ RR is now by far the noisiest. Does anyone know if these same parts are applicable to WOZ RR?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from twenty84:

After replacing all my fans in Stern Spike games, my WOZ RR is now by far the noisiest. Does anyone know if these same parts are applicable to WOZ RR?

The same fan can be used for the metal box in the cabinet, but I don't know what monitor they're using for the LCD in the head of the RR WOZ, so that fan MAY be different. If you end up opening yours up, please post what you find with a picture of the fan and I'll add a yea or nay to the OP for RR owners.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

Iwonder if some of the same things could be used on DI / POTC

Dialed In has different fans. I actually replaced the one in the head of that one, too, but I don't remember if I documented it here.

Here's the before and after for the fan in the head of DI. The changeout is made a little harder due to the fact that JJP is using the wrong bolts for this.

Fan Connector_small (resized).jpgOriginal Fan_small (resized).jpgReplacement Fan_small (resized).jpg
1 week later
#11 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The same fan can be used for the metal box in the cabinet, but I don't know what monitor they're using for the LCD in the head of the RR WOZ, so that fan MAY be different. If you end up opening yours up, please post what you find with a picture of the fan and I'll add a yea or nay to the OP for RR owners.

Did anybody end up doing this? I just rejoined the club, moving out IMDN which went from jet engine to whisper quiet thanks to Vic’s fan - and man the WOZRR sure is noticeably loud! The head fans seem like stock 120mm computer fans - are those what’s making all the noise?

4 weeks later
#12 1 year ago

Replying so I can find this thread later if need be lol

2 months later
#13 1 year ago

Did this mod tonight, couple notes:

Plan on cutting the existing fan wires and splicing to the new fans with heat shrink instead of re-pinning the molex. It’s what I ended up doing on the cabinet fan because the plug is different. Also the Digi-Key part I ordered for the monitor fan, same as OP posted, was such a tight fit into the molex they won’t fit all the way and it can’t be the right thing. Maybe they sent me the wrong ones. I may end up re-doing it as a splice with the original fan’s pins.

The backbox monitor is a heavy sun of a beach. Use a drill for the nine screws, I mean bolts, holding it in or it'll take you a week with a screw driver.

As for getting the cabinet fan out and put back in, I found that a ratcheting 1/4 inch drive tool was just the trick (see pictures). I don’t think theres any easier way unless you removed the whole PC box, and I can’t imagine how much fun that would be just to remove and replace 4 fan screws in tight quarters.

The cabinet fan goes label out, so the fan blows out of the PC box.

Six pack of beer on Pints & Pinball the mod difficulty skill meter and a noticeable reduction in noise!
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#14 1 year ago

Anyone knows if RR edition uses the same monitor ?

#15 1 year ago

There are several monitors in play throughout WOZ history. In general - and please, guys I know that your particular WOZ is the exception but that’s anecdotal and doesn’t invalidate what I’m going to write here - in general the ECLE green games have either a 110v Wells G or a 110v Happ controls monitor and early standard chrome WOZ have either one depending on the build date. Ruby 75ths came later and by the time they did, the Wells were gone and the Happ 110v were almost gone for the most part. After that there were 2 or 3 12vdc monitors in use and the suppliers changed back and forth during WOZ and then hobbit builds (hobbit 3/2016 and beyond). I believe.a select few early 75ths have 110v AC monitors but they are in Europe not the continental USA. So I’m general 75ths have 12vdc monitors of a couple styles and many standard chromes have 12v panel monitors. Except for YBRs which have the newer cabinet and pivoting monitor, that’s the deal with WOZ games as built.

2 weeks later
#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

There are several monitors in play throughout WOZ history. In general - and please, guys I know that your particular WOZ is the exception but that’s anecdotal and doesn’t invalidate what I’m going to write here - in general the ECLE green games have either a 110v Wells G or a 110v Happ controls monitor and early standard chrome WOZ have either one depending on the build date. Ruby 75ths came later and by the time they did, the Wells were gone and the Happ 110v were almost gone for the most part. After that there were 2 or 3 12vdc monitors in use and the suppliers changed back and forth during WOZ and then hobbit builds (hobbit 3/2016 and beyond). I believe.a select few early 75ths have 110v AC monitors but they are in Europe not the continental USA. So I’m general 75ths have 12vdc monitors of a couple styles and many standard chromes have 12v panel monitors. Except for YBRs which have the newer cabinet and pivoting monitor, that’s the deal with WOZ games as built.

Thanks for posting this! I know Stern doesn't care (their machines are MUCH louder because of one crappy power supply fan), but it would be great if JJP focused just a little more on the dB of the fans in their machines to get them to silent or almost silent. Anecdotally, it SEEMS like jjPotC is quieter, but it may just be masked by the massive noise of the map wheel. But to have a manufacturer that is putting noise reduction of the standing machine in the mix when designing them would be refreshing.

11 months later
#17 4 months ago

I just completed this mod - I had a fair amount of difficulty.

1. The case fan required splicing the old wires, as the molex differed.
2. The monitor fan molex pins were fairly uncooperative and required a lot of hard jamming to get them in. (wrong size?)
3. The Noctua fans no longer have color coded wires - they are all black - so it took additional care/work to make sure they were right.

After all of that work...it sounds pretty much just as loud as it did before. It appears the bulk of my noise is coming from the power supply and not these ancillary fans at all.

For future people who attempt this mod, I recommend you try to isolate the noise before you embark on this.

#18 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I just completed this mod - I had a fair amount of difficulty.
1. The case fan required splicing the old wires, as the molex differed.
2. The monitor fan molex pins were fairly uncooperative and required a lot of hard jamming to get them in. (wrong size?)
3. The Noctua fans no longer have color coded wires - they are all black - so it took additional care/work to make sure they were right.
After all of that work...it sounds pretty much just as loud as it did before. It appears the bulk of my noise is coming from the power supply and not these ancillary fans at all.
For future people who attempt this mod, I recommend you try to isolate the noise before you embark on this.

Wow, that sucks, sorry it didn't help on yours. On my original run WoZ from 2013 the majority of the noise was coming from the monitor fan and the fan in the cabinet that has the main boards. The ATX power supply was somewhat loud, but liveable.

Also sucks Noctua removed the color-coding from their wires. Are the adapters that plug into it color coded so you can figure out what's what? I don't know about noctua specifically offhand, but where the wires attach to the small circuit board in the fan, it's usually labeled, so that may be another way to easily find out which wire is what.

For a quiet ATX power supply, check out the EVGA G3 or for ultimate silence, a Seasonic Fanless ATX, but the seasonic fanless is spendy at ~$250 for the 600W.

Check your motherboard CPU fan in that, too. If the bearings are going, it can be really noisy.

#19 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wow, that sucks, sorry it didn't help on yours. On my original run WoZ from 2013 the majority of the noise was coming from the monitor fan and the fan in the cabinet that has the main boards. The ATX power supply was somewhat loud, but liveable.
Also sucks Noctua removed the color-coding from their wires. Are the adapters that plug into it color coded so you can figure out what's what? I don't know about noctua specifically offhand, but where the wires attach to the small circuit board in the fan, it's usually labeled, so that may be another way to easily find out which wire is what.
For a quiet ATX power supply, check out the EVGA G3 or for ultimate silence, a Seasonic Fanless ATX, but the seasonic fanless is spendy at ~$250 for the 600W.
Check your motherboard CPU fan in that, too. If the bearings are going, it can be really noisy.

I think it helped a little. It just didn't get the "core noise" (if that makes sense) for me. If nothing else, those two fans were 7 years old and are now brand new so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

#20 4 months ago

With the noctua fans you can just plug them in to the motherboard. That is exactly what they are made for and the power connectors match up exactly. That makes it a quick and easy swap, no splicing.

Weird that the wires aren't color coded. That's pretty much standard across PC fan industry but even so the pinouts are always the same and there are wiring diagrams online. I just bought a bunch of noctuas (and a few other brands) and they were all color coded.

It's odd that vireland had the noise from the monitor. In 3 different WoZ my noise has always been the case fan.

#21 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

It's odd that vireland had the noise from the monitor. In 3 different WoZ my noise has always been the case fan.

The monitor fan in the 720p monitors in the early WoZ are almost 30dB. That's loud.

The case fan is almost 30dB also.

#22 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

With the noctua fans you can just plug them in to the motherboard. That is exactly what they are made for and the power connectors match up exactly. That makes it a quick and easy swap, no splicing.
Weird that the wires aren't color coded. That's pretty much standard across PC fan industry but even so the pinouts are always the same and there are wiring diagrams online. I just bought a bunch of noctuas (and a few other brands) and they were all color coded.
It's odd that vireland had the noise from the monitor. In 3 different WoZ my noise has always been the case fan.

I could not find a place on the mobo to plug it in - I checked the manual.

Anyway, my problem is now the CPU fan or the power supply. The wife thinks it sounds quieter, I don’t. The frequency that bugs me is still present.

#23 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I could not find a place on the mobo to plug it in - I checked the manual.
Anyway, my problem is now the CPU fan or the power supply. The wife thinks it sounds quieter, I don’t. The frequency that bugs me is still present.

If it's the frequency, it's likely the cpu fan or the switching power supply (not the ATX one) fan. Stop the CPU fan with your hand and see if that's the noise annoying you. If it's not, slowly stick a soft plastic tool into the end of the switching until you hear it contacting the fan and then put it in a little more to stop it to see if that's the issue.

Frequency is usually not the noise complaint for ATX power supplies because they have larger fans. But by stopping the fans one by one you should be able to narrow down the one that's bothering you.

#24 4 months ago

I went on another diagnostic mission today.

CPU fan? Nope. Either power supply? Nope. They make some noise but within acceptable bounds.

To my surprise it’s the fan I just installed! The Noctua replacement has the same audio characteristics as the one it replaced. Strangely the one in the monitor seems fine.

You can hear the noise and hear it stop when I unplug it.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11GqQrCLGOI4ED

#25 4 months ago

I installed one of these. Totally quiet.

be quiet! Pure Wings 2 80mm,... amazon.com link »

#26 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I went on another diagnostic mission today.
CPU fan? Nope. Either power supply? Nope. They make some noise but within acceptable bounds.
To my surprise it’s the fan I just installed! The Noctua replacement has the same audio characteristics as the one it replaced. Strangely the one in the monitor seems fine.
You can hear the noise and hear it stop when I unplug it.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11GqQrCLGOI4ED

Where'd you get it? And was it the NF-A8 PWM or some other permutation of the NF-A8 (there are many sub-models)? It makes me wonder if it's counterfeit. None of the noctua's I've bought have all black wiring. And the one I recommended should be close to silent

Did you put the same Noctua on the monitor and case?

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I installed one of these. Totally quiet.
be quiet! Pure Wings 2 80mm,... amazon.com link »

The Noctua is still slightly quieter.

#27 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Where'd you get it? And was it the NF-A8 PWM or some other permutation of the NF-A8 (there are many sub-models)? It makes me wonder if it's counterfeit. None of the noctua's I've bought have all black wiring. And the one I recommended should be close to silent
Did you put the same Noctua on the monitor and case?

The Noctua is still slightly quieter.

NewEgg, and it was indeed a variant of the NF-A8 - the "chromax."

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-a8-pwm-chromax-black-swap-case-fan/p/1YF-000T-002G4?Item=9SIAADYAG02575

I thought it was just a color change...guess not. I've got the properly ugly one on order and will try again.

#28 4 months ago

That said though, I used the same one on the monitor and it is quiet. In fact I spun it up while the monitor was still out to confirm proper airflow.

#29 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That said though, I used the same one on the monitor and it is quiet. In fact I spun it up while the monitor was still out to confirm proper airflow.

And you installed the anti-vibration pads?

#30 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

And you installed the anti-vibration pads?

Yep sure did

#31 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

With the noctua fans you can just plug them in to the motherboard. That is exactly what they are made for and the power connectors match up exactly. That makes it a quick and easy swap, no splicing.

I ordered another Noctua and will take another look at this. I just reviewed the manual and I think I may have overlooked a SYSFAN2 pin header.

I definitely like the idea of the motherboard controlling the case fan, as it can spin it up/down as needed in response to heat rather than just run at full blast.

#32 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I ordered another Noctua and will take another look at this. I just reviewed the manual and I think I may have overlooked a SYSFAN2 pin header.
I definitely like the idea of the motherboard controlling the case fan, as it can spin it up/down as needed in response to heat rather than just run at full blast.

Yeah, if you get the PWM version then I think the mobo has control over it but I am not sure if that is hardwired in the mobo or if that is a BIOS software setting, never bothered to look. I am very anal about sound (heck, I made a product to stop the pop) and the noctua is dead quiet. I have them on all of my printers (3 fans per printer) and all of my JJP games. Sounds like you got a knockoff maybe.

#33 4 months ago

Well I am able to close this out with positive news!

After receiving the REAL_ Noctua NF-A8 PWM, the case sound is almost nothing. I was able to hook it to the SYSFAN2 header on the motherboard as harryhoudini suggested, making it easy.

I'm so happy with the results I am buying another and I plan to re-do the monitor fan with it.

In short, vireland 's original instructions hold true; buy the right fans and just replacing those two is likely more than enough to gruntle you.

amazon.com link »

#34 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well I am able to close this out with positive news!
After receiving the REAL_ Noctua NF-A8 PWM, the case sound is almost nothing. I was able to hook it to the SYSFAN2 header on the motherboard as harryhoudini suggested, making it easy.
I'm so happy with the results I am buying another and I plan to re-do the monitor fan with it.
In short, vireland 's original instructions hold true; buy the right fans and just replacing those two is likely more than enough to gruntle you.
amazon.com link »

Awesome, thanks for following up with the positive outcome!

#36 4 months ago

Just to close this fan adventure out...

I was so happy with the "real" Noctua on the case that I bought another to re-do the monitor.

I wasn't thrilled with my crimping so I bought this instead:

amazon.com link »

I was able to pop the pins right out using the extraction tool in vireland 's original post, and pins fit perfectly into the monitor molex.

So all told, you can get out of this with zero splicing and zero crimping for both fans.

#37 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just to close this fan adventure out...
I was so happy with the "real" Noctua on the case that I bought another to re-do the monitor.
I wasn't thrilled with my crimping so I bought this instead:
amazon.com link »
I was able to pop the pins right out using the extraction tool in vireland 's original post, and pins fit perfectly into the monitor molex.
So all told, you can get out of this with zero splicing and zero crimping for both fans.

Maybe time to get a proper crimping tool. Once you’re set up for crimping terminals and stocked with a decent supply of plugs, you’ll wonder how you got along without it.

1 week later
#38 4 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Maybe time to get a proper crimping tool. Once you’re set up for crimping terminals and stocked with a decent supply of plugs, you’ll wonder how you got along without it.

Except you never have the right plug or pins and then you end up with 50 different connectors and pins up the wazoo! Oh you wanted 14-20 pins? We only have 18-24, cram those wires in! Slowly built my collection over time now I had to order a huge Akro organizer for them all. We now have an identification system and compatibility matrix hung on the wall.

1 month later
#39 88 days ago

So I went out and purchased two of the NF-A8 fans .... I started with the one in the bottom cabinet first. One thing to note is, as zaphX referred too, the connector on this fan is smaller then the one in the machine. Also, the wire on the NF-A8 is shorter so I either had to stretch it to make the connection or use one of the extensions that came with the new fan. I wound up using one of the extensions and zip tied it to the cable harness. Also, I never like splicing wires so I found, at local electronic store, female receptacle .062 fit into the connector. At first it seemed a little loose so I made certain to move/wiggle the connector to ensure the fan wouldn't be impacted and it wasn't. Would be interested to know from someone a lot more educated in electronics as to if the .062 pins in the connector is what JJP used.

Now for the big WOW moment .... when I went to do the fan in the backbox for the monitor .... mine doesn't have one! There's no fan in the backbox at all which leads me to believe that either JJP eliminated the fan or added them at one point? Anyone know this?

#40 88 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Now for the big WOW moment .... when I went to do the fan in the backbox for the monitor .... mine doesn't have one! There's no fan in the backbox at all which leads me to believe that either JJP eliminated the fan or added them at one point? Anyone know this?

Probably eliminated them in later runs. The one I have is from the first run in 2013 and the monitor is 720p. Pretty sure they changed the monitors out in later runs to 1080p ones that are probably thinner and require no external cooling. What's the manufacture date on yours?

#41 88 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Probably eliminated them in later runs. The one I have is from the first run in 2013 and the monitor is 720p. Pretty sure they changed the monitors out in later runs to 1080p ones that are probably thinner and require no external cooling. What's the manufacture date on yours?

8/20/14

#42 88 days ago

I don't know when they switched over to the lighter monitors, but if yours is a year later they probably did by then.

#43 88 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

I don't know when they switched over to the lighter monitors, but if yours is a year later they probably did by then.

Agree with your assessment that it was a change in production. Returning one fan!

Any idea if I am correct in the size of the female receptacle being .062? Actually I am questioning the size of the existing male pins/connector that the fan in the metal box connects too. I believe I am correct just the female .062 seemed a little loose so just wanted to confirm.

#44 88 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Agree with your assessment that it was a change in production. Returning one fan!
Any idea if I am correct in the size of the female receptacle being .062? Actually I am questioning the size of the existing male pins/connector that the fan in the metal box connects too. I believe I am correct just the female .062 seemed a little loose so just wanted to confirm.

Sounds about right for the connector, but I don't know offhand.

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