(Topic ID: 203822)

Quicksilver PF Wires Cut - Help Needed


By smileymatthew

3 years ago



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  • 37 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by cottonm4
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#1 3 years ago

Picking up a Quicksilver PF (working on getting the backglass right now) which I will likely (at least to test it) be putting in a Galaxy Cabinet and running with an Alltek board. The bad news is every connector on the PF has the connectors cut off so it's all just wire. I'm having a hard time reading the schematics on IPDB, specifically the part that connects the PF to the backbox/driver board. I can figure out the wiring for the Transformer/rec board pretty easy as I know that's pretty standard and that's really easy to read for Bally/Stern Games.

Any Suggestions or maybe someone could help me with the wire colors and what connects up top etc.

Thanks a bunch!

#2 3 years ago

So you have the wire bundle going into the head but without connectors?

These should be similar across all early sterns so different manual scans might get you close.

I would start at solenoids by finding the 18G wires of the correct colors. Test continuity from the coil to the end of the wire to make sure you have the correct wire and crimp it and put it into the connector.

Move on to switches and go from the first one in each column and test continuity to the 22G wire of the matching color. Then do the same for the rows.

This should leave you with a lot of 22G. From here you have to go to each lamp socket and work your way through. You have a lot of work here but for a QS it should be worth it.

#3 3 years ago

Thanks for the info. Yes, I have a playfield with all the wires/harness with the connectors chopped off. I assume someone did this to quickly remove it from the game.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from smileymatthew:

Thanks for the info. Yes, I have a playfield with all the wires/harness with the connectors chopped off. I assume someone did this to quickly remove it from the game.

Someone who needs something "chopped off"!

#5 3 years ago

My Quicksilver is currently being restored by Keith. He has a thread on Pinside: "Pirates Life Pinball/ Quicksilver restoration". He is documenting the restoration and has numerous pictures on his thread. Including this one. Have a look.

Mark Salas

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#6 3 years ago

Wow, major overhaul here. All I really need a is a picture of the connectors and/or someone to just give me the order of the wires/colors for each connector.

#7 3 years ago

Still need this? Cuz I was thinking maybe you could help me get the bulb X & Y coordinates of the light board? I have a headless QS and want to rebuild but that's the only part I can't figure out. Help me help you?

#8 3 years ago

There she is.

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#10 3 years ago

Yeah, had a similar thought. Might be easier to find a Stern Junk Playfield as the wire colors would likely be much closer to matching? There were a lot of Meteor's and Galaxies made and I would think they would be pretty close?

#11 3 years ago

Ballys are probably 80% identical and much more common. They made more playboys than all MPU100s combined (almost)

#12 3 years ago

That lower harness won't get you what you need. It connects the coin door, tilt panel, flipper buttons, power in and service outlet, speaker and knocker to the power rectifier board. Also, the Bally power supply was in the head, yours is in the lower cab. Do you have enough wire to make it to the boards if you got the plugs on the end? Because looking at your picture I am pretty certain it was cut a ways back from the plugs. And there should be two sets. One that went from the play field almost straight down to the power board with around 6 wires and one that runs up to the head with 50-60 wires.

Shawn

#13 3 years ago

Correct. Two sets of Wires. One with a ton and the other with just a handful (maybe 6) for the Transformer. And yes, they are cut WAY short. no way either of them would reach.

I think my best bet is to maybe find a classic Stern/Bally trashed playfield and cut the harness as far back as I can and just match the wires up.. No the mission to find one of those. 80% identical, but with over 60 wires, that would leave over 10 for me to "guess at" which doesn't sound fun.

#14 3 years ago

Not fun, but not impossible either. I can walk you through most of it. It would not be hard to write out a key to convert the different wires from one game to another. Several people on here have run a game with a non matching harness. The trick is knowing what you are getting was also not cut short. I could make you up a set of plugs with say 3' of wire in the right colors that you could then join to the existing wires. (Preferably soldered wire to wire and then covered with shrink wrap.) It would be less work than replacing the whole deal but might cost more than a used harness and there is the possibility of future problems with that many connections. One of my first machines was a "Duotron" with all of the wires cut at the head. The plugs and tails were still there, though and I was able to join them all back together. A PIA for sure, but I got it up and running.

Shawn

#15 3 years ago

So I looked at mine Quicksilver which is currently stored. I took out the bundle coming from the playfield cabinet for the connectors in the back box. See attached picture. To smileymatthew, if pictures like this can be of help to you please send me a PM.

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2 weeks later
#16 3 years ago
Quoted from smileymatthew:

Correct. Two sets of Wires. One with a ton and the other with just a handful (maybe 6) for the Transformer. And yes, they are cut WAY short. no way either of them would reach.
I think my best bet is to maybe find a classic Stern/Bally trashed playfield and cut the harness as far back as I can and just match the wires up.. No the mission to find one of those. 80% identical, but with over 60 wires, that would leave over 10 for me to "guess at" which doesn't sound fun.

I'm just now seeing this post. Everything you need is on the page for Play field wiring. Finding an old Stern play field harness is your best bet for getting the right color of wires. The challenge you will have, for example, is that the wire R-G wire on a Meteor play field that hooks up to connector J1, pin 14 might be a W-B wire on the Quicksilver at the same pin number on the MPU.

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#17 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Finding an old Stern play field harness is your best bet for getting the right color of wires.

Or, find someone who can make you a custom set of pigtails in the proper color combos.

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#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Or, find someone who can make you a custom set of pigtails in the proper color combos.

Those look nice.

Where can we go to find some body who does that kind of work?

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Those look nice.
Where can we go to find some body who does that kind of work?

If I had the correct wire colors I could do something like that but I don't

Last time I had to do something similar I bought a partial harness from a same brand\era machine and made it out of that

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Where can we go to find some body who does that kind of work?

You found him.

#21 3 years ago

Are you going to make Quicksilver and Star Gazer wiring harnesses?

#22 3 years ago

I could. Planning on doing Star Gazer and EBD play field harnesses anyways. Have to do a little more studying. Stern's early schematics really suck!

Shawn

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Or, find someone who can make you a custom set of pigtails in the proper color combos.

Them shore are purty!
I wish finding those 28 pin plugs (in quantities of thousands) was a bit easier.

#24 3 years ago

That’s where that playfield went damn, I almost bought that awhile back with the same idea and I even had a spare Seawitch cabinet ready to go for it. Good luck on the project.

#25 3 years ago

Really appreciate all the help on this!!!

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Them shore are purty!
I wish finding those 28 pin plugs (in quantities of thousands) was a bit easier.

Thanks! And agreed. I think I have ten 28 pin connectors left from a bag I bought from you several years ago. Meanwhile, a 25 plus a 3 plus two drops of super glue will have to do.

Shawn

1 week later
#27 3 years ago

Hi All - any QS owners could help me out here that would be great, ran into a snag on this project.

Schematics don't seem to match up to something on my PF. can anyone verify the wire colors on the CENTER and RIGHT Drop Target Unit Reset Coils? Schematics show Black/Blue for the center, but on my PF I have Black/Orange hooked up on the center drop target and it goes up to J1 Pin 5, which sounds right (where supposed to be black/blue).

Oddly, I also have a Black/Orange hooked up to the RIGHT drop target unit as well and they seemed to be tied together (same black/orange wire - I checked for continutity and they all seem connected), which doesn't make sense, but I have no comparison to know if this was a mistake, or it's correct or someone did this to this specific PF. See pictures of both target reset units.

Thanks so much!

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#28 3 years ago

Just a cursory glance but it appears the coil in pic 1 has been worked on. The soldering job isn't as neat and the diode is different. The bottom picture looks factory. And a continuity check would show them all connected - by the daisy-chained yellow wire. If you disconnect it in the bottom pictured coil it shouldn't happen again. Taking some stabs here. Anyone else?

Shawn

#29 3 years ago

Mine has the black/blue wire on the center bank going to J1-5 and the black/orange wire on the right bank going to J5-10.

Interestingly, the schematics show the right bank going to J5-12 on the playfield sheet and J5-10 on the SDB page.

Right DT coilSDB J5 connectorCenter DT coilSDB J1 connector

#30 3 years ago

"Interestingly." Yeah, that's one way to put it! I've seen a couple of discrepancies here and there but that one is pretty bad. Thanks for the input.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

"Interestingly." Yeah, that's one way to put it!

#32 3 years ago

Thanks for the help. So I think the solution here is basically just ignore the wire color and maybe either run an entirely new wire from where Black/Blue SHOULD be... Up to the J1 Pin 5 and life should be good? I'm gonna check all of this again, but yeah, something definately doesn't match up here.

#33 3 years ago

If you disconnect the single yellow you can check continuity again to know which black/orange wire is which and then attach them to the appropriate wire on the pigtails. No need to run new wire. And then reattach the yellow and it should all be good.

Shawn

#34 3 years ago

Okay... Got it. Mystery Sorta solved. I was able to trace which orange/black wire went to which drop target unit and get it to the proper connector and we should be good. The question remains, why the heck is it like this? Seems crazy someone "non factory" would replace an entire wire... Very weird!

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from smileymatthew:

Seems crazy someone "non factory" would replace an entire wire... Very weird!

I stopped questioning (I am sure you have seen your share of hacks) why people do some of the things they do on pinball machines. Glad you were able to diagnose and fix. Great game. Mine is in the middle of a restore.

#36 3 years ago

It was probably that day the black/blue reel on the line ran out and someone was too lazy to go get a fresh reel.

#37 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

It was probably that day the black/blue reel on the line ran out and someone was too lazy to go get a fresh reel.

A newhire way to solve the problem.

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