Quicksilver
Stern Electronics, 1980Never had any issues in the past but the other day when I turned it on the kick coil repeatedly fires. This is before a game is even started and continues if a game is played. I believe the issue is in the mpu seeing that's its original. I was going just to replace the mpu unless this is an easy fix
Quoted from tdiddy:the kick coil repeatedly fires.
You mean the saucer coil on the left of the playfield near the spinner?
If it's repeatedly firing once a second, the saucer switch is likely stuck closed. The game thinks there's a ball in there so it's trying to eject it to ready the game for play.
Quoted from Quench:You mean the saucer coil on the left of the playfield near the spinner?
If it's repeatedly firing once a second, the saucer switch is likely stuck closed. The game thinks there's a ball in there so it's trying to eject it to ready the game for play.
Yeah the switch is open, it's not that
Quoted from tdiddy:Yeah the switch is open, it's not that
Did you pull the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board to isolate the switch matrix off the MPU board?
Quoted from Quench:Did you pull the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board to isolate the switch matrix off the MPU board?
With J2 disconnected it stops
With J3 disconnected it continues
Quoted from tdiddy:With J2 disconnected it stops
J2 is the playfield switch harness, so the problem is on the playfield. Were you doing anything under the playfield right before the problem started?
Quoted from Quench:J2 is the playfield switch harness, so the problem is on the playfield. Were you doing anything under the playfield right before the problem started?
No... I restored the playfield like 2 years ago, all new everything. Never gave me any issues, it sat for about a month without me playing it and then when I fired it up this issue should up. I'll look at the switch again but I'm kinda feeling its something with the mpu. Idk though, it literally has been bulletproof over the past couple years going to multiple shows with no issues
Quoted from tdiddy:I'll look at the switch again but I'm kinda feeling its something with the mpu.
If it were the mpu when you disconnected J2 (playfield switch harness) it wouldn't have gone away.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking it's going to be the worst possible outcome. It's very likely that it's something simple like a mashed diode somewhere, or something else shorting out that the game interprets as that switch.
You really want to spend between $100-$200 on a board that might not even fix it? You're out the $$ and you have to fix the original issue anyway.
Quoted from slochar:If it were the mpu when you disconnected J2 (playfield switch harness) it wouldn't have gone away.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking it's going to be the worst possible outcome. It's very likely that it's something simple like a mashed diode somewhere, or something else shorting out that the game interprets as that switch.
You really want to spend between $100-$200 on a board that might not even fix it? You're out the $$ and you have to fix the original issue anyway.
Ok I'll look some more on the underside
Quoted from slochar:If it were the mpu when you disconnected J2 (playfield switch harness) it wouldn't have gone away.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking it's going to be the worst possible outcome. It's very likely that it's something simple like a mashed diode somewhere, or something else shorting out that the game interprets as that switch.
You really want to spend between $100-$200 on a board that might not even fix it? You're out the $$ and you have to fix the original issue anyway.
agreed, could be a cracked solder joint on the diode, bad diode, especially on coil with all the vibration if you haven't gone under the PF recently...
Quoted from tdiddy:Ok I'll look some more on the underside
I see you've requested help in the Quick Silver club thread for this but you haven't updated us on your last post here.
1. Have you gone into switch test mode to see what it reports? You need to do this with all drop targets raised and the ball removed from the machine so no switches are actively closed.
2. Have you tested the diode on the saucer switch incase it's shorted?
3. Please post some clear pictures of the saucer switch showing the connections and also the gap between the contacts.
Quoted from hisokajp:any other similar switch you can swap with to rule the SW out? Any other MPU you can swap in to check it out? connector/plug/wire look good?
Borrowing an altek from my buddy tomorrow...... will report back.
Quoted from Quench:Look closely at the switch. The tensioner blade for the lower leaf is bent upwards hard onto the upper leaf shorting it out.
[quoted image]
Yup...... thanks for everyone's help
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Newbury, OH