Don't put too much stock into those 7 year half life formulas.

When EMs gave way to SS, operators found that even a 1 year old EM looked and earned like a dinosaur.

Often, you could not sell an EM for even $50, and some ops had a rule 'never sell a used game to the public, or they will stop playing on route" - so many games went to the dump.

-

When SS games gave way to DMD games, you could still get a hundred or more bucks for them. Professional auction companies like American Amusements would even advertise and (gasp!) sell directly to the public.

So rather than going to the dump, many SS games went to the relative safety of people's Rec Rooms.

-

Looking at that chart in 2008, supposedly 75 Quicksilvers were in people's homes.

Now in 2015, are we to believe that 37 of those games have been destroyed? How?

-

Of course very rarely we hear of a fire or flood, but not 37 of them.

-

I personally know where 11 Quicksilvers are, so there is no way that I magically have a line on 1/4 of the remaining stock.

There are many hundreds still out there.

Two for sure and one that I believe is still with the same owner (but I have not spoken with him for 2 years).

-

The two most common games I see in peoples rec rooms are Bally Playboy and TAF, sometimes both in the same house. Usually broken with junk stacked on top of them.

The flyer shows green on green.

The factory may have just used up other colors they had lying around, or maybe operators swapped them over the years?

Is the one from Ali the same red on black?

Right, but don't take those pictures as gospel.

There are also IPDB pics of Williams flipper bats in Classic Bally games, so whatever somebody submits, can get published, even if not stock.

Nice score!

Do you have a meter?

Have you checked if the switches even work?

She will love it if the head does not break in transit.....

Always ship TFO so they don't stack stuff on your game.

31yLYb7muEL (resized).jpg

At one time Gary's ex had the rights from the divorce.

I'm not sure who has them now.

Greatwitch John would know

Exactly.

Back in the day you would have to have a set of dies made to punch them out.

Nowadays, they are laser cut and then bent on a CNC bender.

We had all of these parts made from 1/4" steel shipped for $200 a set on the Mechmate forum (that center part is 17" for reference):

Photo 1 (resized).jpg

Lazer Lord went for 7K

The ROM for LL is different than Quicksilver, so something is different - but I've never played it to say what the differences are.

Can you imagine the uproar if Stern shipped a game today with a Z-Brick bottom?

It would break Pinside.

High Impact post holes that are so beat that they are enlarged, should be reinforced with a T-nut on the rear of the playfield.

Many SS Bally had posts that were directly in front of the flippers/pops, secured only into wood.

Those always got T-nutted by us, and often were done by the factory, latter in the run.

So don't be afraid to T-nut blown out posts, even if the factory did not.

the-hillman-group-tee-nuts-4151-64_1000 (resized).jpg

But since this is not an aircraft, standard practice is one full diameter of the bolt for thread engagement

Standard 6-32 T-nuts are .25" tall so that's a lot of thread, even if you can't clear the bottom by 3 threads.

(or think of it this way, a standard 6-32 nut is only .1" thick....)

Don't forget, you get your 10% discount for spending $100

Of course I have done that after discovering that I've run out of the proper post, but twice I got bitched out when customers that I serviced, found "my crappy work" at some latter date.

Even after explaining that some manufacturers occasionally did that at the factory, I still caught an earful, lol.

You actually have it correct.

The "wall" that keeps you from installing the plugs backwards should face the interior of the card, the pins face the exterior.

If the "walls" were installed along the exterior of the boards, then it would impossible to hook your microclips for testing around the pins while the connectors were still installed.

Just make sure if you flip your connector pins to match some crazy-backwards-assembled aftermarket display, than you don't forget to put the plastic keying pin back in

Otherwise, someone in the future will certainly put it back together the "right" way, which is now backwards

Yeah, I don't like any bright lights shooting up into my eyes either - too much glare