Yeah I didn’t reach out. Ball guides are the big missing piece right now since everything else is obtainable in some fashion. I need to find the two drop target assemblies if anyone has a 3-bank and a 4-bank in their stash.

I don't recall where I found this but I saved it a few months back when I first had the mutual idea we're all having here. It was posted on pinside somewhere but I couldn't find it again, so I'm glad I emailed it to myself at the time! https://www.dropbox.com/s/7uz61811dta1cx6/Quicksilver_light_box.zip?dl=0&file_subpath=%2FLight+Board+Quicksilver.pdf

Thank you mystery person.

Pm sent TaylorVA

I didn't opt for any fancy reflective silver paint for my scratch build and I'm really happy with the way it turned out, with the exception of trying to use that same Montana varnish. I followed the instructions to a T and still dealt with repeated coats of haziness. I got it to a point I'm OK with but ultimately there's still some spots I'm not super pleased about.

Here's the paints I used:
https://bindersart.com/home/3529-montana-gold-wall-400ml-spray-paint-4048500285264.html
-- Coverage was hard to get evenly. I didn't realize you could get different caps and the one it came with is LOW flow. Base coating would've been easier with a different cap, which are available.
https://bindersart.com/home/3498-montana-gold-shock-black-400ml-spray-paint-4048500285783.html
--Went on like a dream. Zero complaints. Stencils peeled up very clean within minutes of application.
https://bindersart.com/home/3523-montana-gold-t1000-varnish-400ml-spray-paint-4048500376351.html
--Here's a pic of the cloudiness I kept combating. Sanding and more coats would help but then another spot would cloud up. Second image is my "OK, I'm afraid to try again and make this any worse" result. Honestly when I look at it now a couple months later, it's totally fine. I'm very much of an amateur at this stuff, so take my experience with a grain of salt.

Screen Shot 2020-09-08 at 9.37.51 AM (resized).png

Yeah, Texas in the summer is not the best time to try and do it. I set up in a room with temp and humidity control but I likely lost the battle of having to ventilate, though it was also drying really fast since I had air blowing in the space. Who knows, but I’m waiting til cooler days to try and do my next game.

Actually that’s not a defect under the siderail area. I just didn’t paint that high up since it would never be seen (that paint is was starting to add up).

It was after the varnish would dry. The first time I sanded I did go too far and had to recover some of the black. Thankfully this game is so basic in the artwork that wasn't too hard to do with just blue tape.

After that, one coat would be super hazy, then I'd VERY lightly sand and add another coat and it'd look much better but other spots would haze out. It was back and forth like that about 6-7 times until I finally got a "good" one that I wasn't going try over. I'm not sure if the sanding helped or hurt, honestly. I tested some areas without sanding it and cleared up with another coat. Again, I'm not a pro.

According to the instructions, that varnish works best between something like 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, iirc.

My first coat of "wall" gray I had some roughness, likely from being too hot. I did that portion in an old helicopter hanger at work when everything was in lockdown mode. Waited for cooler nights to do subsequent coats. I moved for the varnish and it dried smooth, so sounds like it was blushing from drying too fast, maybe from too much airflow?

Pinball Rescue is doing only DHL shipping now which is unfortunately $34 for a decal. I need a couple decals myself if you (or anyone) is interested in doing a group buy and save on shipping.

Cool, I just sent an email to Pinball Rescue. After I get confirmation from them that they can accommodate, I’ll start a thread to see who else wants in.

Heard back from Lee today! Just started a group buy thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/group-buy-pinball-rescue-restoration-decals#post-6051750

I had a similar issue with bubbles but they seemed to work their way out after a week or so. When I first did the coin door decals, they looked like absolute shit. After a week, it looks fantastic (pics are roughly day 1, day 3, and day 6... don't have a more recent photo handy that shows all the bubbles gone).

For the guys in my group decal buy, I just got a text from DHL while I was typing this: they're out for delivery!

7DF7789F-34A1-43C9-9D22-A60B6913B855 (resized).jpeg

Screen Shot 2021-01-27 at 11.27.08 AM (resized).png

I splurged for the EVO lights from Pinball Life. I hate the way ring lights look with translucent caps but with opaque ones they're fantastic. I had higher hopes for the "flash react" feature but it just makes it seem like a flaky socket in the center since it'll flash when other mechs (or even flippers) are activated. Now that you mention it, I have been meaning to ask why that one in the back left is noticeably dimmer than the others.

My pic above is using the original-style opaque yellow mushroom caps on QS. It's this that I don't like...

pasted_image (resized).png

I've got a couple decals from Pinball Rescue. Thinking I'm gonna do white spinners on my Star Gazer instead. PM Sent.

My playfield is holding up just fine (dimples and such but no surprise or complaint, I expected it). I do have an annoying scratch from the right flipper dragging for seriously 1-2 games while I was getting everything fine tuned, but that's on me I suppose.

It's possibly worth noting that I ordered my playfield in April of 2020 and didn't flip a game until January 2021. These Nine Ball guys are slapping them together within a few weeks.

His game is a scratch build that was sold here on Pinside 2-3 weeks ago. I don't think he's got the wrong arm as the other style won't work with that saucer style, iirc.

I'd also try what's previously suggested and put a couple thin washers on one side of the mech underneath the playfield. Just make sure the arm doesn't scrape the plastic when you reinstall it.

Hold up @cottonm4. I’m not 100% about original but since I built mine with the same new wiring harness, the wiring is correct but missing the common wire. The blue wiring on the right side is the power for the common. You should see that same blue line likely connecting to the lamp above the inlane. What you’re missing is the common connection to the rest of your insert lights. Just need to connect between these two.

269E7CCD-F6A7-48D2-8772-F47175F59149 (resized).jpeg

http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/backglasses.html

International and I’m not sure on the pricing but I’ve read many positive reviews.

Well this wasn’t what I ever wanted to see on my Mirco pf... looks like the clear around the saucer is starting to crack. I can slightly lift it with my finger but it’s all still “there”.

I’ve probably put somewhere between 300-500 games on this since I got it flipping back in January. What’s the recommended method of stopping this before it gets too bad? Are there specifically die-cut Mylar pieces I can lay down (I have sheets if not). Should I put some clear hardener? If so, what? Thanks yall

B716C0BD-7644-4522-BB38-1E627EB926BD.jpeg

I do not. What’s in there? I thought it was a drill kits for his clear jobs. This is Mirco’s stock clear. I let it cure for many months before installation and a ball didn’t hit it for about 10 months. Thought it was doing well until I found this.

HoakyPoaky I missed your stream but what’s your verdict on the swinks pop rings?

I thought my QS playfield (purchased in April 2020) was going to be good after letting it cure for 8-9 months before getting the game playable. Seemed great the first few months of fairly regular play but eventually I did notice pooling around some of the heavier hit posts. His clears look great but I think they’re just applied too thick.

Thanks. I’ve been waiting for someone to actually give a review before I plunge in on a set. I recently got a box of loose parts and found a set of coils still mounted to the bracket with the plastic yokes, but sadly no rings. I’ll just order some rings eventually.

Don’t feel alone. I spent close to 5-6 total hours JUST messing with my right F2K spinner. I finally got it and now I’m sad to say the entire things blurred in my head and I don’t remember what I did to fix it…

Can’t wait to start installing the spinners on my Star Gazer build

You'll need all three. The rod seats into the yoke (see part #18 above).

djblouw makes them as part of his ball guide set

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8250-04

Maybe this?

That one looks more like the originals.

Yep, that’s the same mech. Just a different plastic thing for the saucer.

If the ball bounces directly back into the trough, it should just kick it back out. It shouldn’t go to the next ball. You must have another switch closed somewhere on the playfield.

To prevent bouncebacks, you can either put some deadening foam on the shooter lane rail protector or add washers underneath the trough to raise it slightly. Or both.

It was only missing on the first round of playfields. If you got one in the last couple years and playfield has all the key lines correct (I think it was the top star rollover missing a key line?), it should have that hole already cut too. I have built two QS’s since 2020 and didn’t have to cut anything.

Just to veer us completely off topic, if you look at this prototype backglass, Pentogram has its own entry but I'd say it's most likely the original title/theme for Dracula. Same display layout and then compare to the playfield art...

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

They’re great quality. Have ordered 4 or 5 panels from him. You’ll need* to paint it white though.

*Need vs want, my best take is the white panel helps distribute the light better.