Coindropper posted some here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/19#post-5772883

I'm getting ready to make the wood rails for my build and was wondering if anyone had the correct lengths for the two around the shooter lane?

Thanks Cotton, much appreciated reminder to not overthink this!

Perfect timing as I'm about to mount my slings and then on to the drop targets! Thanks for this.

Any helpful tips on positioning the slings correctly? I'm trying to ensure they don't hit the playfield at full extension, but finding it a little tricky with two separate components to hold in place...

Could someone who has built a QS using the Third Coast harness post some pics of the wiring of both drop assemblies, and the flipper area?

I thought it had it figured out, but now starting to question my sanity! Thanks in advance.

An excellent reference, and one I've been following religiously. We've been PM'ing around the drop wiring this morning and still aren't sure, so I was hoping someone who has done this before could confirm what is correct.

Yeah, you might know a thing or two about this harness.

Basically if the diode orientation and locations should look like this. Sorry but the site isn't letting me rotate the pic....

4bank (resized).jpeg

That makes perfect sense and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

I ended up popping out the white/brown and yellow/red out of the harness molex and put them in their own 2 position molex connector - now I can remove the drop assembly without having to touch the switches at all.

new4bank (resized).jpeg

Oh man I hope this one doesn't take six weeks!

So I've managed to convert a fully working Dracula into a semi-working QS. I've been getting help from djblouw but figured I'd throw this out to a wider audience as well.

The machine will boot with 7 flashes into attract mode. Nothing is registering as stuck closed in switch test. Still in attract mode, if I drop any 4-5 drop targets - that don't complete a bank i.e. any two each in the 3&4 banks - the kickout coil will fire like it's trying to clear a ball.

If I start a game things play normally till I knock down that combo of targets above, then the saucer will score and the coil will kick until I clear one of the banks. After that random things will happen, usually a phantom ball drain or a hard MPU reboot. Often after the reboot pressing the credit button will cause another reboot, and it will take a hard machine power off to be able to actually start a game.

I've poured over the W-Y and W-B strings to see anywhere I could have tied these two together, but I'm just not seeing anything with the wiring, diode orientation, or potential shorts. That said, me and the flow of electrons don't really get along, so I'm attaching some pics of all the switches in question in the hope that somebody spots something. I'm pulling my hair out on this one so any help is appreciated.

WB 4bank (resized).jpeg

WB rollovers (resized).jpeg

WY Drops (resized).jpeg

WY Kickout (resized).jpeg

WY standups (resized).jpeg

Should have mentioned that it's a new Nvram.weebly MPU and SDB. Same ones that worked perfectly in Dracula, and I have cleared the memory when changing the MPU to QS, and confirmed with Andrew that all settings are correct....

Bottom switch is the kickout, which is at the end of the W-Y along with the 3 bank. The top switch is the left spinner.

I forgot about the plumb cap as that's bit me before, so I replaced that with a new one, new diodes on the credit, slam, and tilt switches, and removed that badly corroded ball for fun. No love.

I pulled those wires as suggested and played around with the drops and played a few games. Took lots of notes but couldn't really see any patterns that made sense. Let's just sum that up as "weird shit continued to happen". I can type out some of the behavior if you're interested, but I spent some time with the multimeter and found something I think might not be right. It seems to me that these banks are linked somehow, as all the fun starts when the drops start dropping...

So I clipped a lead to each of the common wires on the DT assemblies and put the meter into continuity mode. With all the drop targets up, there is no beep. When i drop a single target on each bank, that AREN'T on the same row, no beep. But when I drop any two on the same row, i DO get continuity. See the super artistic visual aid below, where the orange arrows are dropped targets.

QS switch matrix (resized).jpg

In a correctly wired switch matrix, this wouldn't be happening right? Wrong? I don't know? I performed the same test with two drop banks that share a row on my Meteor, and I couldn't reproduce the results - no continuity. Probably explains why Meteor works and QS doesn't?

So if that's the case, where should I be looking next?

Tough to get a focus, but I'm assuming you're looking for lugs or other things shorting together. I don't see anything touching. W-B and top lug look bad in that first pic but its just the angle...

All the diodes tested ok, no continuity between banded and non-banded legs.

4FAC4700-2D91-43E1-A53B-9A97B6382499 (resized).jpeg

E6D99DB4-6022-4080-9995-B0A85EE84862 (resized).jpeg

FBAA56A1-4664-4F1D-849A-E7BB4822E1BC (resized).jpeg

Ok so I solved it. Went back to the Meteor and studied those banks, came back and wired up both banks like this instead

Correct drop wiring (resized).jpeg:

Row wire to one switch leaf
Banded side of diode to other switch leaf
Non-banded side of diode, common wire, and column wire to the dead lug

Played about a dozen games since and not a single issue. Thanks to everyone who responded!

I feel your pain. Mine did the same exact thing this morning but I have maybe 100 games on it - hell I'm still tuning the damn thing. My playfield also has been curing since last June so I wonder if these are from the same batch.

I have the Kruzman kit but is the idea to slightly lift the chip and try to glue it back down, or just use the needle to try to inject under it?A68763C4-59A1-4734-AF2D-AE74F80D9B23 (resized).jpeg