Quoted from cottonm4:

But it looks like that play field is in nice shape.

And this is why your play field looks so good.
================================================
Worst case scenario: You buy a full set of Alltek boards and start playing. A full set of Alltek boards cost around $450.00 US funds.
Barackandi pinsider also sells replacement boards.
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
You have many good options to get up and running.
Classic Sterns are just like the Ballys: Playboy, Globetrotters, Evil Knevil, They are pretty much all the same.

Quoted from cottonm4:

It looks like you have a mint back glass. The play field looks brand new. If your inserts are not cupped then you are golden. And you have the spinners with the green "S".
Some aprons are two shades of green. Some are black with the orange trimming. Yours is black with orange.
Excuse me as I start turning green with envy.
You made a fantastic score.
=======================
You can find many parts that are common to the old Ballys at:
http://www.pbresource.com/
https://www.pinballlife.com/
https://www.marcospecialties.com/
These guys are in your back yard.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Stern.html
There are some other pinballers with classic Sterns in the land of Kookaburras and kangaroos.
You might put out some feelers on Gumtree.

Quoted from bluespin:

What exactly are you looking for?

Quoted from cottonm4:

I do not see anything wrong with your plastics. However, Lee has you covered. He is in Melbourne. You are in Melbourne. You could probably drive by and pick some plastics up.
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Quicksilver.html
I have never been to Australia. I'd like to check it out, someday. In 3rd grade, we had a music teacher who taught us to sing a particular song. I don't know where she came up with it. But we sang it enough that I still remember the 1st verse.
https://www.kididdles.com/lyrics/k003.html
Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree
Merry, merry king of the bush is he
Laugh, Kookaburra! Laugh, Kookaburra!
Gay your life must be
So, a 3rd grade children's song is where I learned about Kookaburras.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kookaburra_(song)

Quoted from djblouw:

Start by inspecting the mpu for battery corrosion. Post pics of it, if you're unsure.
Next, get out the DMM and check voltages at the rectifier board, then the driver board. Report back the values.
Then, we can go to next steps after that.

Quoted from djblouw:

Yes, lots of things jump out at me, based on those pictures.
Starting with the rectifier board, it looks pretty hacked up. But, it can be saved, based on your skill level. All the stuff in red boxes needs to be addressed:
[quoted image]
Top left, is corrosion on the leg. Check the resistor, and check it's connection to the board.
Center, this wire should be moved to the back where it belongs. I'd guess theres some pretty good damage where this is supposed to go.
Right, this resistor is toasted. Needs to be replaced
Bottom left, the male & female parts need to be replaced. The white wire is supposed to go to pin 8 (although they do show as being looped together in the schematic)
Here's a pic of the rec board from another game (taken from pinside):
[quoted image]
Also, please check your fuses for the correct values. I can see your f6 fuse is a 4A fuse, when it should be only a 3A SB fuse. So please check all the others, as they don't "look" to be the correct values.

Quoted from djblouw:

TP4 is for your GI lights. Make sure you measured in in AC (not DC). Your pictures show the GI working, so I'm guessing this is good.

Quoted from djblouw:

Ah, now I see where that orange wire is going. Yeah, this should be corrected. Possibly a burnt header pin on this board.
[quoted image]

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

new to the club:[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Crispin:

Welcome and Congrats Neil! Love the flipper bats and rubber combo!

Quoted from cottonm4:

A turquoise and purple cabinet for a pin with a green play field. What a color combination That sure is a nice looking play field. And your QS has the black and orange apron. Apron colors seem to be all over the place.

Quoted from cottonm4:

BG Resto makes repro Quicksilver back glasses.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Restore it for sure. You want that playfield clearcoated so the game can truly live up to its name!

Quoted from dothedoo:

Had a chance to see a Mirco QS playfield up close and personal at Expo. They are beautiful. The insert tooling is very visible when backlit. May bother some people, especially if on the fence between restoring the original playfield or buying one of these.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

What kind of poor service are you speaking of? I plan to buy one of these QS play fields. What should I be expecting?

Quoted from cottonm4:

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

I don't know how else you would test a play field for hardness. And I'm guessing he did not say. I agree that a fingernail test would not work on a car. I know the paint cure process can be speeded up by baking the paint but baking a wooden play field is not an option, as far as I know.

So, now we have to use a torque wrench to assemble a play field? What should the torque values be?
I am agreement with your restorer.

What is this addball/oddball clearcoat method? I know from reading his advertisement that he uses ceramic clearcoat. I know nothing about ceramic clear and google searching brings up no information on ceramic clear that is of value. I am clueless on the ceramic. But other than the ceramic, what is his oddball method, please?

I know from my own clear coating that you can buff and polish to a mirror finish but running my bare finger across my cured clear would/did leave very minor scratches on the surface. Polyurathane paint is scratch resistant, not scratch proof. But under glass and with the play field lights on you are not going to be seeing very minor finger rub scratches. Although I will allow that the one solid green color of Quicksilver could prove me wrong.
I am going to have to buy a Mirco QS play field. I can't get around it. If Mirco would sell one without clear coat I would prefer that but I doubt he would do that.
I have cleared two play fields now.
On the first play field I did, I laid down the clear and waited for a few days for it to "cure". I sanded it and buffed and polished it. And then I placed in the sun to "bake". The play field got hot and the clear got fingernail proofed in short order. However, I noticed the inserts were acting like they wanted to raise up with the heat from the sun. Another light sanding and another buff and polish was required after the sunshine bake. But it was cured. Within one month of doing this clear, I was putting it together and I have had no problems. And this pin has seen hundreds of game played without issue.
For my 2nd clear coat I was scared to try the sunshine bake method. I just let it cure at room temps. For months. Then I buffed it out. Not too much later I noticed the paint over the inserts was "sinking" and I could feel every insert while blindfolded. So I sanded it smooth and buffed again. I had to do this one more time. It seemed like the clear was never going to cure. It was at least a year before I could start hanging posts and other parts on that play field.
Sorry for the long post.
====================================
I am wondering if you could, or would, take a hair dryer and heat up an inconspicuous are of your play field, either under where one of the arch plastics sits or under the apron area. Could you heat that up with a hair dryer and see if the heat helps cure it out to where you cannot leave a fingernail scratch? If some heat does not help with curing it out, then I will get real nervous when I get ready to buy one of these.

Quoted from Quench:

While not answering your question directly, the rubber size details in red below might help.
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

You can figure it out. Just pretend this drawing is your play field. Count up all of the R1 rubber rings for the posts. Stern missed identifying two R1s. I marked those 2 with red.
You need 14 R1 rubbers.
You need 2 R2 flipper rubbers.
"""""""""""1 R3 Up top, by the shooter lane.
"""""""""""3 R4 2 over by the left spinner. 1 below the 3-place drop target. Next to R5.
"""""""""""1 R5 At the 3-place drop target
""""""""""3 R6 2 for the slings. 1 for the 4-place drop target.
"""""""""1 R7 Above the right sling shot
""""" """'1 R8 Above the left sling shot.
You need 2 R9 mini post rubbers at the outlanes and 1 at the outboard side of the right hand spinner.
My count might be off by one or two rubbers. Double check.[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Have you been having to deal with the fires? Or were you just out getting blasted and laid
One of my Aussie contacts in NSW had the fire run up to the end of his block. He is OK, but what a tragedy you all having to deal with.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Where’s the part about getting laid?

Quoted from Redketchup:

Just my opinion... but with a complete resto like that, i think you need to change the ground plate in the bacbox... make a huge difference in the final result![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Redketchup:

any shop who made aluminium for house should cut these for you with the measurement. Pretty sure home depot have it in the USA

Quoted from cottonm4:

Which pin are you trying to outfit. Stern used a couple of different coils depending on which pin.

Quoted from seshpilot:

I sure hope this is true. Being delivered soon.[quoted image]

Quoted from Highclasspinball:

I have added the key lines to the two rollovers now. There will be no more problems with the clearcoat.
The fingernail test is nothing you should pay attention to. All latest shipped boards for the last few month will never show the problem we have seen on a few before.
All boards I ship can be installed right away without seeing any issues.
Regards,
Mirco

Quoted from dothedoo:

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.
I don't have an itemised LED list, but I used Comet retro under most inserts (the old single LED style, not SMD) because I like the look of them under the translucent inserts.
I put two blue flex LEDs under each spinner arrow and clear blue LEDs in the flipper return lanes which I'm going to change to ice blue.
I had to use a pink LED under the 5X insert in the bonus area because the insert had faded almost to white.
And I put two pink LEDs behind the Stern logo in the backbox.
All GI is incandescent with 44s in the playfield and 47s in the backbox.[quoted image]

Quoted from dothedoo:

Thanks! It's an original playfield that was restored by classic_stern. We were lucky to find one that didn't have too much wear. It has a few issues that developed over time, and one that's visible, even in this image, that we decided not to fix at the time.
I want to redo it and fix all of its issues, but it plays so well and I can't give it up. So I need to build another one that plays as well or better before I tear this one down.

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Yup. Same in mine. Had several bad corresponding scrs for a few flickering inserts. I had to replace them after shotgunning socket and wiring swaps. Pro tip: try swapping out a light board if possible, it’ll save you time and potential headaches LOL. In the end the kit worked as intended in mine and sockets and wiring were fine.

Quoted from dothedoo:

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.
I don't have an itemised LED list, but I used clear Comet retro under most inserts (the old single LED style, not SMD) because I like the look of them under the translucent inserts.
I think the lane guides have clear 1 SMD.
I used 2 SMD frosted sunlights in the pop bumpers.
I put two blue flex LEDs under each spinner arrow and clear blue LEDs in the flipper return lanes which I'm going to change to ice blue.
I had to use a pink LED under the 5X insert in the bonus area because the insert had faded almost to white.
And I put two pink LEDs behind the Stern logo in the backbox.
All GI is incandescent with 44s in the playfield and 47s in the backbox.
[quoted image]

Quoted from vec-tor:

I would keep the OEM switch stack and just replace the contacts with the new ones.
That way it has the same footprint.

Quoted from cottonm4:

The contact is that little button on the end of the switch blades. You drill off the back side of the contact, push it from the hole, put a new contact in place and tap it with a hammer until it is locked in solid. It is like a small rivet.
A set of flipper switches will set you back about $16.00 for a pair. Contacts cost something like 5 cents each.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ahh, I was thinking he meant the entire blades, now that does sound promising!

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey quick question guys. I don't want to repost all the photos here, so I'll just post the link to my rebuild thread. Please take a look.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build#post-5766499
I received my QS plastics from Mirco recently. You can read the post for the details, but I was shocked at how they arrived in the mail with no post-production prep.
In any case, the main issue is that one of my plastics is printed incorrectly. The artwork doesn't go to the edge in multiple spots & black lines are present. See the arrows. Looks terrible to me, like it was printed/cut wrong. The other plastics were ok. I just want to verify that this was a printing error & it not the way the plastic is supposed to look.
I've reached out to Micro, but no reply yet. I'm not looking forward to getting a replacement as they have been very difficult to get a response from in the past. [quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

I am so happy with the quality of the clear on my Mirco Quicksilver play field and my CPR Catacomb play field that I am going use them as they were shipped to me.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Really. I have no complaints. It is nice and shiny. It was still a little soft when it arrived. It has been cooking off in its box as I am busy with other things.
Now, the clear is as hard as a rock. It is triple shiny. And smooth as the proverbial baby's butt. All it needs if for me to start putting it together. Color me happy.
===============================
What was wrong with yours?

Quoted from Classic_Stern:

So for spinners you need to do a few items. Definitely make sure the switch as Cotton said is balanced and resting the spinner in a down position and barely not touch. No bends or issues. Tighten up the holding screw before any of this so the tension is tight to the playfield.
But before all of this. Take your spinner bracket and debur the holes where the spinner rests. Make sure they are absolute perfectly smooth on the outside and inside edges. Then take you spinners and sand the edges that float on the bracket. Make sure you high polish that surface to a fine shine. This is the spinner arms on both sides. Then use silicone lubricant on the parts BEFORE you install back on the field. The lubricant with solvents. You don't want to spray on or around the playfield. This stuff removes paint and melts plastics.
Put back together, make sure it's balance and then make sure the switch is perfectly parallel to the field when the spinner is in the resting position.
Thats all I got. I can get 200 plus spins on the left spinner on Quicksilver and Stargazer doing these small attention to detail items. My Galaxy I just sold has a super ripper too.

Quoted from Classic_Stern:

I mean 200 spins. Over 100 consistently for the first few days after these tweeks.

Quoted from Tyamry:

I'm in.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Teamhex:

Looks like I just joined the club. I picked up this one for $160.
Had to wait months to even see it, but I think I got a steal of a deal here. It mostly works fine except for a few things.
My goals for this thing...
Paint the cabinet to it's original silver color. (I need to figure out the stencil situation though. Any guidance on exact silver paint color would be nice.)
Fix the pop bumper switches being gapped to closely(I'm assuming that's the problem. Slapping the flippers set them off).
Replace the caps on the sound board, replace entire board if that doesn't work
Clean and wax the playfield
Replace the bulbs, rubbers, pinball, plastic caps, ext
Polish all metal parts on the exterior
Bake the plastics between glass sheets @170 F for 45mins to flatten them out
Adjust the bottom player 3 & 4 score displays to properly fit in the glass window
Is there anything else I should look at or fix to prevent any major issues from popping up? I'm a computer tech by trade, but it normally just extends to replacing boards. I have some friends into soldering so if that's needed I should be able to get some "supervision".
Don't mind the cluttered garage. Having a yard sale this weekend so we're prepping for that
I don't normally take on projects so this should be interesting. I'm not sure how rare this thing is, but a few posts mentioned it was considered pretty rare. I'm going to make my way through these posts and see what I can learn about this machine. Anyway...glad to be here.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tsskinne:

Which transformer does your game have?

Quoted from bluespin:

You have an underpowered transformer that was only used in mpu100 pins. You need to find an mpu200 16B-6 transformer.

Quoted from razorsedge:

Yes, as with most modern games. Works solenoids.
The transformer steps AC voltages, which are rectified by the rectifier board. Yes AC comes out of the transformer, but the "Rectifier" creates DC voltage (direct current) from the AC of the transformer. The coils are powered by about 48vdc in my standard Seawitch, and I tested them dropping about 2-3vdc when flipping (4 flippers). I guess maybe a B=3 just drops off a bit more than that. The 48vdc switching power supply renders the 43-48vdc coming from the rectifier board, redundant. Replacing with a strong consistent supply.
You could use the 16-B-3 for 12vdc, 5vdc, 6Vac, but replace the rectifier output of 48vdc with the SMPS 48vdc thus providing solid coil power and leaving the transformer to provide everything else except the coil power.
You could also ditch the transformer all together if you wanted and use a PC ATX power supply along with the 48vdc SMPS. They have good 12vdc and 5vdc. GI can be run on 5vdc, instead of the raw unrectified 6Vac.
"43vdc" scribbled in everywhere in scats, edited?. I think it might have been meant to be 48vdc, but with the weak transformer, covering the sag by lowering the "tolerance". Bingo! now saggy weak transformer is "within spec" and not in need of replacment. Nominal. The B-6 would have less voltage drop (from 48v) than the B-3. Less voltage means less power. Hmmm mine reads 48vdc for coils here anyhow. Input is 240Vac @50hz.
The SMPS is adjustable anyhow, so you can turn it down to 43vdc if you really want. If it does not get overloaded you won't get big voltage drops anymore, anyway. You'd be setting it to 48vdc for the punchy effect you're looking for, I think.
What about the 16-B-8 ... what arcades are they from?

Quoted from razorsedge:

Well it's not original with the -3 anyway?. You really don't need to ditch the transformer for a PC power supply at all. You can just add on the SMPS for the 48v to give the solid coils. No less original than before really, just a boosted alternate coil supply.

Quoted from emsrph:

Yes, good start to check the cables and test points.
Looks like voltages are good on 5V, 12V (Tp4, Tp2). Tp6 is ground.
Here's a couple good SB-300 articles for some other leads until an expert shows up:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-bally-s-t-stern-sb-300-and-vsu-100
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundsb300.html

Quoted from dasha126:

I’m restoring a quicksilver where can I find those cool instruction cards.
Thanks Guys
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Crispin:

Quick Quicksilver Question. I was playing a last game before fast eddied picks up my Quicksilver and I noticed that I'm missing the bonus light show and sounds before and after my bonus count after I drain when earning all the Quicksilver letters. I'm using a Weebly mpu and I hit the clear audits button just in case even though it's a brand new latest version of the board. I thought the only sound setting was background noise through dipswitch 14. I play tested a bunch of games but I didn't hit the switches by hand until today to specifically see and hear the bonus. Hope anyone has run across this, I have to disassemble this game in the next hour. Nothing like waiting till the last minute!

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey all, my son is embarking on becoming the next Jack Danger. Still some ways to go This week we shot my recently restored Quicksilver.
Given he's only just turned 7, it's more directed towards kids, but you may enjoy also. There's a couple of decent games in there, haha.
If you're kids like pinball, please subscribe and show them the link.

Quoted from slochar:

The sb300 sound generation is intimately linked to the speed on the cpu board since that's where all the timing changes come from. So check your clock frequency and make sure you have the jumpers correct for the higher speed. Yours does seem slower.

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

how are those with mirco playfields coping after use? are they holding up or usual pooling crap?

Quoted from slochar:

The sb300 sound generation is intimately linked to the speed on the cpu board since that's where all the timing changes come from. So check your clock frequency and make sure you have the jumpers correct for the higher speed. Yours does seem slower.

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

did you do that yourself or someone did it for you?

Quoted from slochar:

You'll have to stick a scope on it to measure the frequency. It could also be the interrupt provided by the 555 timer. A further thought though, if you have 50 hz power, your zero cross will be slower vs 60 hz, and that's the interrupt that software uses to control the sound board.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I advised on my Quicksilver build thread that Mirco has come thru and has sent me a replacement play field. I am in process of transferring parts over to the replacement play field.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-build-is-proceeding-along/page/3#post-6992564

Quoted from Dicky:

So did you repair your Original after your Micro had problems
Or you got another Mirco and had it re cleared and have no issues now

Quoted from gdonovan:

Interesting as the QS I have from Micro (Dec 2021)has a very hard clear on it.
I drilled a test hole or two in an obscure area to test.

Quoted from Dicky:

I got a replacement from Mirco & got Geoff to rub it back & re clear it
Been about a year now, still a little hesitant about installing it & having it all happen again
I think I would burn it to the ground if it happened again