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Quicksilver Club all welcome

By TigerLaw

8 years ago

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Latest reply 1 hour ago by GoldenOreos
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Quicksilver Stern Electronics, 1980

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#815 4 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Thrillhouse:
I've had two people so far contact me about the template I made for the light board in the backbox for my Quicksilver build (I was able to source a populated playfield about 9 months ago). bluespin was very gracious in sending me some clear photos and I was able to make a vector template from that. If someone has a dropbox account I would like to send you the file so it can be shared with everyone. You can always pm me with a email and I can send it over as well.

Thrillhouse has shared the files with me. Here's a dropbox link to download them for anyone else interested:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7uz61811dta1cx6/Quicksilver_light_box.zip?dl=0

2 weeks later

#823 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
Joined the QS club today, pretty chuffed to find one and excited to have yet another long thread to trawl through ☺️
It’s in pretty good shape cosmetically, but sadly doesn’t work. It turns on but does nothing else. I own a number of B/W and have restored a few so know my way around a pin reasonably well, but Classic Sterns are new to me. Apparently the previous owner had it for 25 years but it hasn’t worked for a number of years.
All fuses in the cabinet buzz out. It has no startup sound, start button does nothing though I do have some GI, insert and backboard lights working.
The displays showed nothing when I first fired it up, but seemed to come life somewhat after warming up. I haven’t checked the cables and connectors thoroughly, but did notice a slight burn on the large connector near the coin door in the cab (lowest on the pcb)
Any tips as to where I can start to find the problem?

Start by inspecting the mpu for battery corrosion. Post pics of it, if you're unsure.
Next, get out the DMM and check voltages at the rectifier board, then the driver board. Report back the values.
Then, we can go to next steps after that.

#838 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
I wont get the chance to check voltages till the weekend, but does anything scream out to you from the pics djblouw ?

Yes, lots of things jump out at me, based on those pictures.

Starting with the rectifier board, it looks pretty hacked up. But, it can be saved, based on your skill level. All the stuff in red boxes needs to be addressed:

29511ac44891609ec81ce308015fd6381743ecc4 (resized).jpg

Top left, is corrosion on the leg. Check the resistor, and check it's connection to the board.
Center, this wire should be moved to the back where it belongs. I'd guess theres some pretty good damage where this is supposed to go.
Right, this resistor is toasted. Needs to be replaced (although based on your readings, it's probably still working)
Bottom left, the male & female parts need to be replaced. The white wire is supposed to go to pin 8 (although they do show as being looped together in the schematic)

Here's a pic of the rec board from another game (taken from pinside):
Rec board (resized).jpg

Also, please check your fuses for the correct values. I can see your f6 fuse is a 4A fuse, when it should be only a 3A SB fuse. So please check all the others, as they don't "look" to be the correct values.

#839 4 years ago

DJB

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Next up is the MPU. There is battery corrosion present on this. See the red boxes. This corrosion could be under other components that we can't see.

74d2ac34ebfc3b38300119f26da438a13bfb0cc6 (resized).jpg

This corrosion needs to be addressed. If the MPU boots up on a bench, you may be able to save the board. But probably a new MPU is the most efficient way to get this fixed.

#841 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
You my friend are a Champion! Pinsider of the week ☺️ Thank you for your detailed and insightful reply. What did the common pinballer do before the internet!! ❤️

Well, there is a thread on hear about pinside not being as helpful as it used to. So I figured I learned a lot from this site, so I should help out others when I may have some potential answers.

#842 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
Just made a dash out to the garage... bloody hell its cold in Melbourne tonight... and measured the rectifier board. Results are:
TP1 6.2v
TP2 252v
TP3 13.7v
TP4 No reading
TP5 46.5v
Besides TP4, they all seem to be roughly in spec. I'm about to go to bed, but I'll try and read more in the morning, but can anyone offer their thoughts on TP4. Would that be the culprit for my issue? (QS turning on but not starting). I also noticed the far right large ceramic resister on the rectifier board has a leg blown out, along with a decent chunk of its body. This obviously needs replacing, but what would have been the reasoning for the blowout? I'm quite the noob with Stern electronics (haha) so excuse my simple questioning.

TP4 is for your GI lights. Make sure you measured in in AC (not DC). Your pictures show the GI working, so I'm guessing this is good.

#843 4 years ago

DJB

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Ah, now I see where that orange wire is going. Yeah, this should be corrected. Possibly a burnt header pin on this board.

14e4f65f46b28ea4aede0e171bec64bd1152b634 (resized).jpg

#845 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:
Hmmm, nope it was on DC... most of the GI appears to work so I’ve obviously made a mistake there.
When turning on the pin, the LED on the MPU lights up and stays on, should it blink/flash?
If the MPU is cooked then you’re probably right, a new MPU or whole board set might be the way to go.

Yes, you should get a total of 7 flashes on the MPU when it starts up. Do you get an initial flicker, and then it goes solid? Or is it solid from the very start?

If you're looking at just getting the machine going, get a new MPU (either a brand new one, or you can use a Bally one too). Although the other boards have had lots of hacks, they may actually be working. They should still be fixed, but I'd suspect that MPU.

3 months later

#929 4 years ago

DJB

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Probably a long shot but:

Does anyone have an extra set of ball guides? The large metal ones, not the wire ones (but I'd take the wire ones too)?

Or, if you know where ones can be made/purchased?

Thanks.

#931 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from kickabit:
Mantis made ball guides for Star Gazer and Seawitch but I don’t know anyone who has made them for Quicksilver. I PMed Orbian to see if there was any effort to make a set for Quicksilver but he didn’t respond.
I’d like to find a set too or get good pictures and dimensions of the ball guides so can make my own.

I had checked Mantis, and think I *might* be able to use the large seawitch one, with some modifications. But I'd rather have a full set. Anybody want to send a set to Mantis to get made?

3 weeks later

#941 4 years ago

DJB

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Does anyone have shopout/teardown/pf swap pics of Quicksilver? I've going to be embarking on a project, and would like to have pictures to confirm what the manual is showing.

I'd appreciate whatever you're willing to share.

Edit: I've had someone share their shopout pics. Thanks

Post last edited 4 years ago: “Complete”

2 weeks later

#961 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from djblouw:
Probably a long shot but:
Does anyone have an extra set of ball guides? The large metal ones, not the wire ones (but I'd take the wire ones too)?
Or, if you know where ones can be made/purchased?
Thanks.

Pretty sure I’m still looking for a set....

1 month later

#1008 4 years ago

DJB

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I'll preface this by saying I'm an impatient person.

Before I knew that cottonm4 was going to provide a set for Mantis to use, I had decided I'd try my hand at making ball guides. So I finally got the first set done. A few additional adjustments are going to be needed before I'm happy with them, but they would be totally usable in the current state--I just like to get things perfect.

IMG_0091 (resized).JPG

IMG_0092 (resized).JPG

#1009 4 years ago

DJB

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Decided to make the wire ball rails today.

Overall, they turned out pretty nice. A bunch of trial-and-error on the first few. But by the end, I was bending like a pro.
9E6A8D22-94EC-4DBB-92F7-44BDFC7CEB1A (resized).jpeg

#1010 4 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Could someone post some close up pics of the saucer eject plastics? Is it the same one as the Gottlieb's of that era (2 piece design)?

#1023 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from dothedoo:
They are different. I am using a translucent yellow Gottlieb in mine. I would suggest if you decide to use a Gottlieb that you use the entire mech and source an appropriate value coil. The Stern mech with Gottlieb plastic causes the ball to jump higher out of the saucer. On mine, the ball lands on the nearest insert and has cracked it.

Thanks for the tip.

The kickout coil I'll be using is a weaker one than an original QS kickout coil, I beleive. So hopefully this will help some.

1 month later

#1055 4 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Peabo:
Anyone have the plastic post count needed to populate the playfield handy?

Order 46 of them, and you'll be fine.

#1057 4 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Peabo:
Are they all 1 3/16" ?

Yes, Faceted. All the same height. Unless you want the adjustable out lane posts to be shorter

2 weeks later

#1059 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
If you bought a Quicksilver harness kit from me, you will find I missed the 10point switch on the side of the playfield just below the kick-out hole. This was entirely on me. When you get to installing your kit send me a PM and I will get the fix right out to you at my cost. No excuses, just apologies for any confusion caused. I don't want to just send them out to all who bought because I know some have sold or passed on their kits. So just let me know when you are ready and I will get it right out to you. Thanks, and again, sorry.
Shawn Farwell
Third Coast Pinball

I can't say enough good things about the service you provide Shawn. Thank you so much for taking care of this.

(I had identified the switch wires as missing last night, and pm'd Shawn this morning. He's already confirmed the issue, and sent out the needed wire). Now that's great customer service.

2 weeks later

#1082 4 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from seshpilot:
Can someone measure the length of this rail and share with me their findings? djblouw? Thanks
[quoted image]

17 3/8”

1 week later

#1103 4 years ago

DJB

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Here’s the cabinet flipper switch from pinball life for comparison. (The sw-10a-48 switch)

It’s a little thicker, so I’ll remove some spacers if needed.
06928200-2B73-432F-B4E7-CAF7BADE8F0B (resized).jpeg

Post last edited 4 years ago: “spelling”

3 months later

#1140 3 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Hey quick question guys. I don't want to repost all the photos here, so I'll just post the link to my rebuild thread. Please take a look.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build#post-5766499
I received my QS plastics from Mirco recently. You can read the post for the details, but I was shocked at how they arrived in the mail with no post-production prep.
In any case, the main issue is that one of my plastics is printed incorrectly. The artwork doesn't go to the edge in multiple spots & black lines are present. See the arrows. Looks terrible to me, like it was printed/cut wrong. The other plastics were ok. I just want to verify that this was a printing error & it not the way the plastic is supposed to look.
I've reached out to Micro, but no reply yet. I'm not looking forward to getting a replacement as they have been very difficult to get a response from in the past. [quoted image]

That’s the way all of the ones I’ve seen from Mirco are printed. Here’s mine:

03C13602-521C-44E0-A9B9-78E8A5318D46 (resized).jpeg

Then, here is a set from Pinballrescue that arrived today:

66F8135A-5A8F-41C4-8518-575E44502E5A (resized).jpeg

The printing is different.

I’ve got some other comparisons I’ll do later on, and post, between the two sets.

#1143 3 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from pinball_ric:
play_pinball has a spare set of plastics he was going to sell (I got him a set for his birthday but he also bought a set I didn't know about). I don't know if he's sold it yet or not. You could message him to see

Actually, this is the exact set. I bought them from him.

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
So the Micro plastics are wrong to begin with.

To be honest, I really don’t which set is correct. I’m just showing the difference between the two vendors.

#1156 3 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Has anyone found some decent looking instruction cards? Since my game isn't stock, I don't really want to use the standard version.

#1158 3 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from msarac:
Coindropper posted some here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/19#post-5772883

Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for.

#1161 3 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
My new Mirco playfield arrived from Ron Kruzman yesterday. What a thing of beauty! He had it for about 4 months. I think he did something like 8 coats of clear, sanding, buffing, etc. The final results look outstanding to me. It’s like a sheet of glass. Very happy I decided to pay the extra money to get it clear coated correctly. It will still sit for a month or so before I even begin working on it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It looks great. Ron does amazing work. Good job sending your QS pf to him. It will be simple free for many years now.

1 month later

#1193 3 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
Got the 18AWG striped as well for this run. No more paint pens! Fun fact, one of these pictures has 7100 crimps in it. NOT a typo. These will be an all-in-one construction like the Fathoms. Easier for all of us I think. As before, do all the lighting first then add the main harness with switches, solenoids and controlled lamp wires. Instruction sheets will be posted here or can be emailed if requested.
Shawn
Third Coast Pinball
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like a lot of work is ahead for you!

I actually liked the separate harnesses better (Ligthing/switch/coil) versus the all-in-one. It made it much easier to install, since I just did one harness at a time, making it easier to follow the wirecodes.

One-at-a-time is also how I've advised everyone that has contacted me about building one, to make it not as daunting of a task.

Any chance on getting you to change your mind?

#1202 3 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
Breaking out the jigs it looks like I did one for GI lighting and controlled lamp power and then one for solenoids, switches and lights. If you want it more separated I can probably do all lighting on one and sol/switches on the other like with S/G. Also I am doing plugs for drop targets.
Shawn

I think how you had it was pretty manageable. If it’s not a ton of more work for you, feel free to break them down a little more.

And the plugs for the drop targets was an awesome idea.

Keep up the good work.

6 months later

#1406 3 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from msarac:
I'm getting ready to make the wood rails for my build and was wondering if anyone had the correct lengths for the two around the shooter lane?

Quoted from ita47:
I'm also getting ready to make my playfield rails and would like measurements for all of them. I am scratch building my QS so I don't have originals to copy.

Here's the length of each:

Left side: 38"
Center: 17 1/4"
Right side: 28 1/2"
Back: 20 1/8" (full width of pf)

1 month later

#1528 2 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from play_pinball:
Well this wasn’t what I ever wanted to see on my Mirco pf... looks like the clear around the saucer is starting to crack. I can slightly lift it with my finger but it’s all still “there”.
I’ve probably put somewhere between 300-500 games on this since I got it flipping back in January. What’s the recommended method of stopping this before it gets too bad? Are there specifically die-cut Mylar pieces I can lay down (I have sheets if not). Should I put some clear hardener? If so, what? Thanks yall
[quoted image]

Do you have a kit from Kruzman? I’d suggest using that in this case.

#1531 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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There is a glue and injectors also included. It’s intended to seal the clear back down after you drill a hole and chip an edge.

#1532 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from msarac:
is the idea to slightly lift the chip and try to glue it back down, or just use the needle to try to inject under it?

Yeah, the glue will wick under it some amount, so you shouldn’t need to lift.

But on an area like that, you will probably be able to see the repair—it won’t be seemless.

6 months later

#1611 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from woz:I'm not talking about the rollover above the spinner - I'm aware that scores a Special as there's a red insert that says "Special" next to it I'm referring to the star-rollover in the top arch....

It’s to let the game know that a ball has been plunged on to the pf. It also changes the back ground sound.

#1614 2 years ago

DJB

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Quoted from woz:
I thought that meet be a reason, but why? The game will know the ball has been plunged when it goes over one of the top rollovers or his the rubber above the C rollover.

if a rollover switch isnt working, it won’t register. Also, that switch unlisted the extra ball, after earned. Maybe it was easier to code it all to one star rollover switch?

4 weeks later

#1643 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Yeah sourcing the parts is the hardest part of these builds. I hope djblouw is still making his guide set. But if not you might be able to make your own using Mantis Guide kit. In fact he makes some other classic stern parts you may find useful.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-ball-guide-kit/
From what I understand, the wiring harness is the hardest thing to get. I hear Shawn is pretty backed up producing them.

Yeah, I'm still making them, just in small batches. I need to have enough people signed up for a set so that it makes it economical to order materials. Otherwise the cost of just one set would skyrocket.

3 months later

#1667 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from supermoot:
I’ve been staring at pictures for a while and it looks like it’s next to the oblong one on the bottom right?

Yes, that's correct. The hole is present in the second picture you posted (and the original pf). It's not there in the first one.

#1670 2 years ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from ita47:
Mine is missing the hole as well. What is that hole for? Does anyone have the size of the hole and the measurements of the location?
[quoted image]

See my build thread.

1 year later

#1788 8 months ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from hisokajp:
Another "Wyld-Silver"

Nope. But not too far off:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-quicksilver-itch-from-scratch#post-5358980

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Good riddance.

I do agree though that Wyld Fire is not fun. Even with the sound off.

#1798 8 months ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Ahhh I thought it looked familiar. Not too many QS conversions out there & they're all unique in their own way. I'm surprised he moved on from it.

Quoted from Tsskinne:
You and me both, but he is happy. I think djblouw would even tell you he likes working and restoring and scratch building them more than he likes playing them.

I only let go of it because it was going to a good home. I hate selling any of my pins. I double hate it if someone turns around and sells one that I fully restored.

I know this QS is in an awesome place, with a lot of other great classic Sterns, and a great owner.

Yes, I already miss it, but if I get the urge, I could build another some day.

7 months later

#1828 17 days ago

DJB

djblouw

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Quoted from GoldenOreos:
what ball deflector did some of you guys use for the saucer? only thing I'm missing so far.

Try this on from marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8250-05

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