Taking names for Quicksilver play field harnesses - production begins in early August.

Shawn

Okay all you guys with the new play fields! I need a decent quality photo of the underside of a play field NOT POPULATED. Preferably with the power rail installed for the GI and controlled lampsbut without is fine too. This will be for a guide to all the guys buying harnesses from me. If you can help please PM me and I will give you an email address to send it to.Thanks in advance.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

Yep, I know. But lots of folk can't translate from the paper to the play field in their minds. A blank field has no extraneous info either so I can show the way to layout the GI and controlled lamp harness and the switch and solenoid one separately along with the attachment points. Plus I didn't know if you wanted pictures of your product going up for everyone to see.

Shawn

Hey folks, I need a picture of the plug that comes off of A3J2 from the head harness to the solenoids. Should be a Mate-n-Lok 6 or 9 hole plug with 5 wires. Anyone? Thanks in advance.

Shawn

Tell me about it! It's that time of year. I don't do finance but I run budgets and we try to spend every last dime before the fiscal year ends.

Shawn

Update! So the order load wasn't overly large and I am doing all the harnesses at once by package. Each play field set has 3 packages. #1 is your bare wire and power harness for lighting all the GI and controlled lamps. Package #2 is the controlled lamp harness and Package #3 is your switch and solenoid wiring. All of the Package #1s are done. 90% of all the Package #2s are done. Once those are complete I start making the 3rd package. As I complete each one they will be boxed and ready to send. I will invoice the purchasers in the order received through paypal and send them as payment is made. Bottom line; The first ones should be going out by the end of next weekend.

Shawn

$200 but I have closed out the list on these.

Shawn

The first of the Quicksilver kits get mailed out in the morning. Thanks to all who ordered.

Big thanks to Thrillhouse who sent me a full sized printout. Would have been near impossible to do without that. Here's a picture with notes to help get the first package laid out correctly. The GI paths for the bare wire power rail is in blue. There are two paths for the two wires coming from the rectifier. The red and white GI paths are lined in red with the white just opposite. Lay your bare wire first and get it stapled in place. Next I recommend using the extra red, white and blue wire included to connect the orphan bulbs not connected to a string. Now lay the harness over all and start making the connections. To be properly positioned the yellow zip tie should be just to the left of "RW1" in the lower left corner. Each section has one and this is where all should end up. It will seem excessive but when the play field is tilted up and scooted towards the coin door you will need all that slack between the play field and boards in the head.

Leave slack at all of your connections. Trim only if necessary. Look at another play field and observe how most wires have a fair amount of play in them. On the other hand, do not be afraid to trim if a wire is too long and carefully remove zip ties if you have to.

Shawn

GI layout (resized).jpg

If you dont have plans for the Meteor play field and plastics we might could swing a deal for the Q/S play field harness...

Shawn

If you bought a Quicksilver harness kit from me, you will find I missed the 10point switch on the side of the playfield just below the kick-out hole. This was entirely on me. When you get to installing your kit send me a PM and I will get the fix right out to you at my cost. No excuses, just apologies for any confusion caused. I don't want to just send them out to all who bought because I know some have sold or passed on their kits. So just let me know when you are ready and I will get it right out to you. Thanks, and again, sorry.

Shawn Farwell
Third Coast Pinball

Starting the next run of Q/S harnesses in 2 weeks. If I had you on my list you should have gotten a PM to confirm. If you didn't get one and have previously contacted me about a harness let me know.

Shawn

Got the 18AWG striped as well for this run. No more paint pens! Fun fact, one of these pictures has 7100 crimps in it. NOT a typo. These will be an all-in-one construction like the Fathoms. Easier for all of us I think. As before, do all the lighting first then add the main harness with switches, solenoids and controlled lamp wires. Instruction sheets will be posted here or can be emailed if requested.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

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Yes, backbox, playfield and lower cabinet kits are three separate sections. That being said, it looks like the consensus is to make the play field harness in parts as before. Not a problem! I can do that.

Shawn

Breaking out the jigs it looks like I did one for GI lighting and controlled lamp power and then one for solenoids, switches and lights. If you want it more separated I can probably do all lighting on one and sol/switches on the other like with S/G. Also I am doing plugs for drop targets.

Shawn

So here's the breakdown. The play field harness will come in two parts. The first will be the three light plugs(A5J1, 2 and 3) and A2J1. That gives you all your GI and controlled lamp power, power to the flippers and fuse and all the controlled lamp wires plus the backboard pigtail.

The second part will have all the solenoid and switch plugs and wires.

The best quote I have ever read on this site is "The enemy of good is better." Sage words IMHO.

Learned that lesson myself. The hard way.

BTW, I think it looks fantastic!

His was in the first run, I should be starting yours in a week or two.

Final round!

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Just in the nick. I'll add you to the last group.

So it has come to my attention, thanks to many of you builders out there, that my harness plugs are incompatible with the aftermarket score displays and other cards. (I.E. SB-300) The problem is that the plugs I use have the ramp opposite the side it should be on. Thus it is pretty much impossible to get it on.
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The easiest solution appears to be to just snap off the locking part on the score display, but I understand some folks not wanting to do that. Another solution would be to unplug all of the wiring and reverse it. I also can see some of you guys not wanting to take on that task. I am happy to pay for postage of the harness back to me. I will make the changes and get it right back to you. That is the best I can offer. I always made up my plugs so the "windows" are facing out making it easy to troubleshoot without too much trouble. Ever game I ever worked on was like that. Even our troubling friend Mr IDC worked that way.
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Anyways, I have already conversed with some of you. I will turn the plugs on the remaining harnesses being built and on future builds. I am here to help and like happy customers. Let me know what you need and I will make it right.

Yes, the green/white and green/yellow go to the speaker. The purple/yellow and purple/black go to the volume pot. One wire will be on the center lug and the other needs to go to one of the side lugs. I usually figure out which one using a meter but someone smarter than me may have a better answer.

The tilt is wired up the same as on any Bally diagram. Since I could source no concrete Stern info I had no choice but to go that way. The wite/black wire should have been rolled up with the roll of tilt panel wires. If not, it is missing and I'll get one out to you.

In the backbox, the red and white wires will go to one run of GI bulbs and the orange and green wires will go to the other. The blue wire will be daisy chained to each controlled lamp. This is their power wire. There should be enough to tie it in with the harness that connects to the score displays.

A lot of you seem to be needing more info than I have been putting out so I will centralize it all here. Whatever y'all need just ask and I will post what I can.

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coin door -

Green and yellow/white go to the lockout coil. Green to the BANDED side of the coil!

White to one side of the memory clear switch and red to one side of the test switch. Yellow/red goes to the other side of both. Daisy chain from one to the other.

Blue, brown/white and red/white go to the coin chutes starting at the hinge side and working out. Red/yellow goes to the other side of the coin chute switches and will daisy chain from one to the next as well as to the slam and credit buttons.

Blue/white to the other side of the credit switch, yellow to the other side of the slam.

Red/green and yellow/black daisy chain to your GI lights.

Should read green/red and yellow/black daisy chain to the GI lights.

Green/white and green/yellow to the speaker and the purple wires to the pot.

For you 5 guys waiting on the last of the harness sets please be patient. We've had a slight weather disturbance down here in South Texas so it'll drag out a little farther. The day job has me running in circles...

Shawn

The play field harnesses and cab lowers are done. As the head harnesses are completed I will be sending out invoices. I believe you are up next. Severe weather delay.

Shawn

Nice to see my hard work in action folks. Thanks! And if you have any questions just ask. play_pinball has it right in this case.

Shawn

What do you need to know? I am here to help.

So the configuration that always works for me is this - The common wire (white w/blue in this case) will connect to the upper most tab along with the non-banded side of the diode. The upper tabs should all be connected either by the way you are doing it or with a single piece of bare stranded wire.(Some is included in the kit for that.) The banded side of the diode connects to the side tab. The four other wires should connect to the lower lug on the switch. Does that make sense?

Picture for reference only, NOT a Q/S.

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The other question I see a lot concerns the extra wires on the 4-drop target. The extra white/brown and the yellow/red go to the twin 10-point targets behind the drops. There is also a length of each of those colors included to connect them to each other in parallel, slingshot switch style.

In the flipper area, the 18awg blue/white wire will go to the right flipper, daisy chain to the fuse and then terminate at the left flipper. This is the power for your flippers(pre-fuse) and for all the other solenoids(post fuse). The yellow carries that from the other side of the fuse.

Only if you're going fishing...

Don't know if this will help or not. Your harness has definitely been hacked up, for what reason I don't know. I have assembled almost 40 harnesses for Q/S at this point and couldn't hope to tell you what the goal was here. Here is all the pertinent plug runs. Maybe it'll help? At least give you a starting point.

QSlightsorder.pdf

Noticed that when deciphering the schematics for the play field harness. Didn't really get it until I watched video of it playing. Lightbulb moment.

Shawn