. Here's the manual with schematics. More Schematics paperwork etc available on the IPDB...
Ralph

Stern_1980_Quicksilver_Manual.pdf

thx for the tip Ralph67

Help me find a Quicksilver for sale and I'll be happy to rate it favorably!

They are slowly trickling in from families that had them in their garages or basements for 20 years. Mine came from a storage shed that sat in the same spot since the early 80's until it surfaced and I picked it up QUICK

Hurry! Find me a Quicksilver before the ranking drops to 101!

I traded a T2 for mine several years ago and the pf was shot. I figured I would be under in it, but wanted to keep it so what the hell.

Now - seems like a no brainer.

Knoler No problem mate , I like helping people out . hope you can make a replacement from the scans on IPDB.
I think one of the scans was cut off a little short , but it shouldn't be to much trouble to photoshop or edit it .
good luck
Ralph

Here's my repro plastic , hand painted from underneath .
If you try this at home , remember to paint the black detail first , then fill in the rest .
I traced the Image from the IPDB on to the top of the plastic first , turned it over and did all the black lines and details, then when dry! the colours go over the black.
DSCF1719 (resized).JPG
DSCF1725 (resized).JPG
This shows the art on the underside.
I should of painted a white coat over this too . But as there is no lights under the plastic , I didn't bother about it .
The yellow/ red and green sections were painted over the black.
you don't have to be that neat , when painting it the colours .
DSCF1727 (resized).JPG
I used clear washers to help protect the new plastic
DSCF1730 (resized).JPG

wow nice !

Can someone please list the fonts that are used for the text on the Quicksilver playfield? I know the yellow insert font is "Quicksilver" ( or Neon Lights). Looks like at least 3 more fonts were used but I can't get the "What the Font" website to properly identify them. Thanks everyone!

Cheers guys. It came out better than I hoped .
It's a nice match when you look straight down onto it .

So use any gloss or satin black first for the detail and blacked out areas.

Then i used Model Master paints , I bought 2 sets of mixed paints from a model shop , for painting war hammer/ fantasy stuff.
Some interesting colours amongst them, I thought they would come in handy for pinball restoration. anyhow .
I used 2 of these "Fantasy" colours and a dark green Humbrol No 2 .
DSCF1731 (resized).JPG
The Colours are "Troll Green"(4389) which matches the light lime green and "Bloode Red"(4352) which matches the red .
I think the part no's of the colour is printed on the jar , but take a look online to see if they still do these colours .
DSCF1732 (resized).JPG
I did find a another of the Fantasy paints that would be good to use for the dark green, instead of the Humbrol dark green.
That one is called "Angle Green"(4382)
DSCF1733 (resized).JPG

a1 (resized).jpg

This typeface is Optima done by Hermann Zapf.

Thanks very much! I had it very close (Castle Font, circa 1975) but there were a few small differences.
I will check out Optima when I get home.

Hi, does anyone have a pic of this section of the playfield (before all the wear and tear?) Thanks in advance!

IMG_20170811_215615194 (resized).jpg

here's a few for you

DSCF1746 (resized).JPG

DSCF1745 (resized).JPG

Thanks very much!

So can we come back around to those "Selected for Tournament Play" decals? I'd love to get my hands on a mylar reproduction. Someone peeled one off of my Meteor apron and when they tried to clean up the glue they smeared the orange apron paint.

Pinball Rescue said they would do a run of quicksilver plastics if we can collect at least 10 people. Please post if you're interested and i'll supply the list to them for consideration.

I am interested. I just noticed a crack in the same plastic that has been discussed above. I wonder if these plastics sets could include two of those! (since they are so tiny and vulnerable).

good point. I think extras that can fit on the sheet are not out of the question.

I'm in for a plastic set

I'd be in for a new plastic set

I'm in for a set of plastics as well.

I would be interested in a set of plastics!

I don't need a set but I'd spring in if it were to make it an even 20 to help out

I will buy a set in hopes that I will procure a Quicksilver sometime in the future.

I'm in for a set.

I'm guessing here, but would think a set would be priced equivalent to the Meteor plastics they are selling.

http://www.pinballrescue.net/Plastics_Meteor.html

I can ask, but I would think the same too.

Got 10 people so far! Who else wants in?

I'm interested in a set.

I'm in also

+1

Are you all in for a set, interested in a set, or all you all going to buy a set? Three different ways of saying mostly the same thing. But there can be two different outcomes

I have asked for next steps from Pinball Rescue. We now have over 10 people interested. Hopefully that's enough to have them add Quicksilver to their plastics queue.

I'm intrested. Called them a few years back and was told demand was not high enough on this title. I guess they might change their mind. I have almost 2 sets but both do not give me a complete non broken set. Was thinking of trying ralph67 paint method or glue my cracked pieces together.

Try gluing the cracked pieces together, and then apply Mylar to the top and bottom. The Mylar is almost invisible and will help prevent future cracking of the plastic

Thanks for the tip, on the Mylar after glueing.

If you want to bond your broken plastics back together, then follow this link. And then have a look at an earlier link inside this one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repairing-cracked-and-broken-plastics

For bonding PTEG plastics back together, you do not want to use superglue. You want some Scigrip3. Your parts will BOND back together tightly and you will not need mylar. You don't have to sweat being real neat as you let the adhesive flow. This adhesive will not affect the inks on your plastics.

I repaired my Seawitch plastic 7 months back and have been playing the hell out of this pin; The repaired plastic gets hammered regularly and is still solid as a rock.

Hi Guys regarding the Plastics .
Lee from pinball rescue emailed me back , he said he will look into it and get back to me.
I did tell him there was about 10 people very keen already. and more have shown interest since I looked yesterday .
I did ask if he went ahead with them . to maybe include a second target bank plastic , most of his sets include a key fob to, so I asked about that also.
I suggested he took a look at this site to see all the interest.
Flipper fingers crossed they decide to produce them ...

I have started replacing some inserts on my Quicksilver playfield. So far I have replaced the two triangular inserts as they were very badly damaged. I could not source "plain" triangular inserts so I had to purchase "reinforced" inserts (with the ribs). Ok, so here is where my dilemma begins. I really, really like the idea and the look of reinforced inserts!
I just might get kicked in the ass for asking this but: Has anyone completely removed all the inserts and replaced with the reinforced starburst inserts? I am very tempted to replace the remaining inserts with this style.
I am aware that collectors will want the playfield to look as original as possible. If this is just a horrible idea, please say so! I won't take offence

FYI, for the remaining inserts, I already have a full set for each style (starburst vs. plain) I just need to know which set to proceed with. As of this moment I am still on the fence.
Thanks everyone!