Sorry to see @cottonm4, it's so heartbreaking

F U Mirco!

I advised on my Quicksilver build thread that Mirco has come thru and has sent me a replacement play field. I am in process of transferring parts over to the replacement play field.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-build-is-proceeding-along/page/3#post-6992564

I'm embarrassed to say I haven't checked in on your build in a while Craig, nice work! Glad to see Mirco made good on another defective playfield. I wish you smooth sailing for the remainder of the journey! The game currently being sold by Joe is my 2nd restoration that was originally sold to my friend Pete who put those cool coin door inserts in. Cool to see the game moving around the states, good luck with the sale Joe!

Wow really??! I had similar issues with mine, Mirco essentially told me to F off.

If you have the time and inclination, I'd recommend re-clearing the playfield. Mine has been perfect since having a pro clear it properly.

So did you repair your Original after your Micro had problems

Or you got another Mirco and had it re cleared and have no issues now

I sold my original playfield once I acquired a Mirco QS. Mirco refused to acknowledge any issue so I repaired my Mirco. My clearcoat guy was hesitant to touch it given the clearcoat process Mirco uses, but it turned out well. Nice and hard, unlike Mirco's.

Interesting as the QS I have from Micro (Dec 2021)has a very hard clear on it.

I drilled a test hole or two in an obscure area to test.

I got a replacement from Mirco & got Geoff to rub it back & re clear it

Been about a year now, still a little hesitant about installing it & having it all happen again

I think I would burn it to the ground if it happened again

Mine was soft roughly 6 months after manufacture.

Ahh!! Geoff did mine also. I let it sit for a month or 2, but no dramas with it at all. But yep I hear ya!!

MVCO That quicksilver is a third one that CHRISPIN did. How do I know - I am on the owner of the game. I bought it about a year ago from a guy in VT. Along the way - talked CHRISPIN about it several times as to how he did the cabinet (automotive paint) which looks really cool. Your correct he did not document or sell on pinside so it is a bit hidden from the Quicksilver world. Overall - I can say the game build is amazing looking and plays great. I would not be selling if it were not for space in the house and games coming (Fathom, resorted stars….you know the story).

The seller of the game is a friend - Joe Fox who helps me to move games out my basement and lists them for me. Joe really has sold over 200 games over time. Joe has been on several podcasts over the years talking about his collection.

i am still waiting for MVCO to show us pics of his Quicksilver that he bought. You say yours is #3 that Chispin built and MYCO says, " I bought the Quicksilver that is is pictured extensively."

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cottonm4 So this is the one that MVCO likely bought. It was crispin 3rd third one it differs from the current ad in that had black legs and green apron vs mine with grey and red.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-quicksilver-12/page/2

Not sure exactly why but the second one Crispin did not list or show the build only trace are the ads for it sold to me and from me!

I needed to get a copy of my Quicksilver manual printed up and had a couple of extras printed, too.

I had the outside cover printed on heavy card stock. It has a nice, solid feel to it when you open it up.

I have 2 to sell. $25.00 shipped in a manilla envelope. $30.00 if you want USPS Priority Mail.

Send me a PM if interested.

Here is the link to my ad:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/139386

So after a lot of effort, the worst has happened. The clear has failed and is getting worse every day. Its heartbreaking to see this.

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Neil.

Date of purchase of playfield?

July 2020.

Neil.

I've ordered 2 to be sent to Ron for re-clear then I will have it swapped again.

damn that sucks, i am definitely doing HEP recommendation of putting a #6 washer between every post and PF. That way if the clear bubble, it is under the post, not visible.
Also make sure post are tight just enough so they don't spin by hand but no more.

I can see the sanding marks in the blue 2000 plastic. This is/was Mirco's attempt to get rid of this bubbling and chipping problem on the JJP play fields. Obviously, it has not worked. From a quick look at this pic it looks like the clear is lifting up from the color inks. If that is the case, then it suggests there is an adhesion problem between the clear and the ink.

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Mirco will say you over-torqued the posts. Of course, I cannot prove anything, but I think it is something with the brand/type of clear he is using. I know he said he is using a ceramic clear.

In this pic of yours, it looks like there is also a chipping issue at the edge of the hole, just behind the drop target. So now you are talking Jersey Jack play fields with both bubbling and chipping.

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I have a friend with a WOZ he bought brand new. It has a lot of plays on and the play field still looks brand new. I also have had an opportunity to put some time on a high-use Hobbit. Other than some dimples, that play field looks brand new, as well.

And then it all fell apart for Mirco. He must have changed something in his processes but who knows what.

Did you contact Mirco about your issues? If you did, it rather sounds like he told you to take a hike.

I have a large collection of posts that came from several play fields. I was surprised to discover that I have 2 different styles of posts in my stash.

I'll call this post the deep post. The center cylinder and the two support bosses are set down deep into the post.

This post needs 3 #6 washers so the washer, and not the post, will take the stresses.

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3 washers

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Here is the same post with just 2 washers. The washer just barely comes up to the base of the post.

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This is the other style of post I have. The center support is almost even with the base of the post. I'll call this the shallow post.

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Here is that shallow post with just one washer.

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If you go with the #6 washers, you will need to inspect your posts so you know how many washers to use for each post.
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I stumbled across these neoprene washers at the hardware store and thought I would try them out. They are made in Taiwan, China, Korea, Canada, and the US. They should be available around the world.
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Out of the box, they are crowned. A squeeze in the bench vise flattens them out.

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On the left is the deep post with the neoprene washer. I have it torqued down but you can see a bit of a gap between the post and the wood base. The post on the right is the shallow post which I also have torqued down. You can see there is a larger gap between the post and the wood base.

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So, 2 things with this picture. Look at the post on the left and see all of the stress marks in the plastic. The only way these stress marks get here is because the post is torqued down snug to the play field; Every time a ball hammers the post at the rubber the impact stresses are transferred to the base of the post and since the post is locked down tight to the play field those impacts stress and crack the post base.

But with the use of washers to lift the post off the play field, the only impact stress the post will "feel" is at the rubber ring. The base of the post will not have any stresses applied to it.

Here are some pics of a ball up next to each post. You can see the rubber rings are at different levels, but in both cases, the ball hits the rubber below the centerline of the rubber. I don't think the added height will affect how the ball travels. However, I will not know for sure until I get my build finished and start playing. But I am happy with the neoprene washers so far.

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So, all of the verbiage above can be distilled down to: If you are going to use #6 washers, make sure what post style you have and washer up accordingly.

Yeah the guy who did the swap is a veteran of pinball playfield swaps and knows Mirco - even at the loosened torque its still going to do it.

With regards to washers I did this on my TNA when they had this issue, it initially covers it up but after time on certain heavy areas (posts at the top of the bottom half of the playfield) that take a lot of hits eventually the cracking/bubbling appears. It takes a while but it happens. On QS I'd expect this to happen at the posts around the spinners. Same sort of shot.

I've emailed Mirco and asked for a refund on my QS playfield, given I've ordered another one; all in all by the time my QS is bulletproof on the playfield element I'll have spent almost $5000 on playfields, swap, reclearing and postage. Luckily for QS it's one of my most favourite games. And NineBall I didn't get round to doing yet, so I'll have a spare nine ball playfield.

Regards,
Neil.

on another question - what parts are folks using to rebuild slings?

I should add that the playfield sat out of its box in my shed for a just under a year before the swap happened.

Mine was purchased the end of 2021, soft washers under all the posts and has a very hard clearcoat. Tested by drilling in the top right white area. 60+ games so far.

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I have a stash of kicker arms and use these brackets from Pinball Life. These brackets are different than factory; One hole has to be cut open so the kicker can rotate.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-mounting-bracket.html

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The effort to have new Stern style kicker arms made was a bust. So, if you have no Stern kicker arms....

I have a Data East Robocop and its slings do the job in fine form. Pinball Life sells these Data East sling assemblies. Installation for a new build seems like it would be easy enough.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-slingshot-assembly.html

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And there is this sling assembly that is a little bit cheaper. According to the ad, this style for Spooky pinballs but works for DE pins. My friend's TNA has very good sling action so these would probably work fine.

https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshot-assembly.html

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And with both of these units all of the parts can be bought individually so if you have some coils and switches in your inventory you can build your own.

FYI the newer Stern and DE sling assembly does NOT line up on Quicksilver as I found out to my chagrin after ordering for my project.

They work fine on Seawitch though.

I had to email Mirco more than once to get any action. I finally resorted to sending my emails on Sunday evening from over here thinking that they would be the first item he saw on Monday morning.

I sent pictures of the defective area on my play field and expressed it was an adhesion issue and nothing to do with over-torquing a post. He finally came thru with a replacement play field.

I hate to leave you with this but all I can say is Good Luck.

What is the difference between QS and Seawitch?

Thanks.

Spacing of the holes at the sling assembly. On Seawitch they are fairly uniform, on QS they are not.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition/page/24#post-6806904

If you compare them, you can see in the sling switch openings are different.

Bally is also different enough (they put the lamps behind the switches) I can't use them for that application either.

So I have two new DE assemblies gathering dust on the shelf.

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Thanks. I see what you are talking about. It is strange why Stern engineered QS this way. The sling area is a comparable pattern on both Witch and QS.

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So my next question is: Is there enough meat on the DE sling assembly to move the switch into the needed position?

All that would be needed is to drill 2 holes into the needed position and then tap the holes. To do it correctly you would need a drill press for accurate drilling. And then go buy an individual tap of correct thread size for about $5.00.

I don't want to open Robocop up right now. Can you post a pic showing the business side/ back side of DE sling assembly, please? You don't even need to dust it off

Probably slightly changes the trajectory of the ball to percentage the game time correctly. I'd think it'd be easier to change whatever it's hitting into as that area opposite would change easier since it's just posts.

Now if stern did use the all in one assembly back then (which is a great idea.... I think Wico used it and some of the home games) that area would have been sacrosanct and we'd have easy replacements.

No. You could chop off the switches and mount them separate with L brackets but that wasn't worth my time.

I have one of these Quicksilver manuals left.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/139386

Yeah first 500 games it was fine, then it deteriorated badly, hope yours is ok man.

what did you use in the end?

Used Stern set.

Have to wait and see, no particular hurry playing it. Knew the risk going in.

I do not want to sound trite, but pictures won't help you much at this point. You say you are a shop but I will approach this as if you know nothing; Trust me. It will be easier.

I will help you if you are willing to do the following. Take a piece of tape and tape a number to each connector and I will tell you where each number needs to go. etc.

Here is your starting point. There are 4 circuit boards.

1) The small circuit board in the upper left on the side is the sound board.

2) The large CB at the upper left is the MPU.

3) The board in lower left is the lamp driver board, or LDA.

4) The board at upper right is the solenoid driver board, or SDU.

Each board has four sets of connector pins. Each set on the board will be labeled J-1, J-2, J-3, and J-4. The SDU has a couple of more clusters of pins. Study them so you will understand what is going on. Each set of pins will have a missing pin. It might be pin number 8 that is missing. It might be pin number 4 that is missing. You will see a small white triangle next to each missing pin on each set of pins.

That is enough lesson for now.

Come back with readable number for each wire connector and I will tell where it goes. Or someone else may come in with a better way to do this.

One more thing you need to do or I won't life a finger.

Count how many pins are on each connector and place that on your numbers label. There will also be a pin hole on each connector that will be blocked with a small white keyway blocker. It might there is a blocker at pin #4, or pin #8.

Do this and come back. We will get you hooked up.

This is from Seawitch. Will these help?

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Here is the switch matrix with wire color callouts.

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and here is part of solenoid matrix.

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And here is all of your feature lights wiring with color callouts.

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Here is the link. All the drawings are in the English manual.

https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=quicksilver&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1895

I advise caution. Stern had a habit of substituting wires during production. A callout green/white wire might actually be a purple/black wire. I ran into 3 wire color substitutions on the Quicksilver I am building up.

Don't know if this will help or not. Your harness has definitely been hacked up, for what reason I don't know. I have assembled almost 40 harnesses for Q/S at this point and couldn't hope to tell you what the goal was here. Here is all the pertinent plug runs. Maybe it'll help? At least give you a starting point.

QSlightsorder.pdf

Hi have i nice one for sale

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/145483

looking for a playfield harness if anyone has one.

anyone know where the missing hole is under the apron on micro playfield?

Neil.

It was only missing on the first round of playfields. If you got one in the last couple years and playfield has all the key lines correct (I think it was the top star rollover missing a key line?), it should have that hole already cut too. I have built two QS’s since 2020 and didn’t have to cut anything.

Hello, I am about to pull the trigger soon on a mirco quicksilver pf +plastics. I am turning a Stern Magic into one. I believe I have everything I need except the metal lane guides. I bought SG guides from Mantis pinball but he doesn't have anything listed for QS besides a DIY kit guides.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-ball-guide-kit/

Would this suffice? Anyone have any extra by chance? Want to weigh my options. Thanks

Stephen
Edit: I did a search for "guides" on the forum and see cottonm4 sent a set to Mantis im going to reach out to him when he's back and hopefully I can get a set made. Thanks all for contributing into creating them