Looking for an original Quicksilver playfield if anyone has one to sell - would prefer to get hold of an original pf to restore rather than a repro. Some wear/touch-ups ok. Thanks.
Trying to figure out which apron I like better. The game I've had forever has the black/green and the one I just picked up has the green/green. I like the black better but thinking that's just because I've had it so long. Any thoughts?
987E9E92-25D0-45D0-8142-3E3CE5FF73E0 (resized).jpegFA595DBB-FA8A-4E8C-AEE5-998E59440C8F (resized).jpegQuoted from bjsilverballs:Trying to figure out which apron I like better. The game I've had forever has the black/green and the one I just picked up has the green/green. I like the black better but thinking that's just because I've had it so long. Any thoughts?
I was wondering the same thing a couple of days ago for when I restore my recently acquired Quicksilver - a title which was near impossible to find in Australia!
Black/red has to go, I like the black/green as some games came with this combo from the factory (even though flyer depicts green/green) I'm glad I got an apron Decal in advance from Pinball Rescue before they closed.
Just realised my new decal has black text & outlines & not white, so will be doing green/green.
If anyone is looking for a game, I listed my extra QS today and somebody else listed a nicer one (for $2K more). Go get em!
so I got my quicksilver a couple of years ago from Europe (see earlier posts). It was a beauty but the previous owner had the playfield cleared and who ever did it used cheese as the active ingredient and it started to pool worse than a JJP GNR in a nun's home. It was heart breaking. The cab/backbox all great and using weebly boards life is good. Back glass decent too.
Mirco come out with their playfield for quicksilver... do I risk a swap? So I get a mirco playfield and spend a long time letting it cure. I test some posts on it - looks ok. So Newforestpinball is tasked with the big job!
Used yopps and comet lights and replaced as many components with originals as possible. New LED displays too. The game plays great and after a month no sign of pooling or chipping. Also put in the cliffy for the scoop.
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Quoted from NeilMcRae:The game plays great and after a month no sign of pooling or chipping.
Thank you for answering the question I had. Is this Mirco QS play field going to chip?
Also, your apron looks brand new. Where did you find it?
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you for answering the question I had. Is this Mirco QS play field going to chip?
Also, your apron looks brand new. Where did you find it?
Its definitely dimpling but less than a modern game for sure but a worry for sure.
Apron was on the game in that condition new.
Neil.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Its definitely dimpling but less than a modern game for sure but a worry for sure.
I restored my Big Game play field 3-4 years ago. I laid down several coats of PPG auto clear. And from a certain angle in the light, I see dimples in my own clear. I stress that, while the dimples are there, they can only be seen if you were a spectator standing at the side of the pin. As a player, the dimples are invisible.
I do not recall seeing any dimples on my BG play field before it was restored. So, it makes me wonder if some of these dimples are just because of the automotive clear.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Apron was on the game in that condition new.
I ask about your apron because your apron design is in base color yellow. Every other picture I have seen of a Quicksilver has an apron design with base color of green---and this is for both the green and black aprons.
I'm not knocking you for your apron. I would love to have it. It looks nice. But the yellow is not an apron design color I have seen before.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Its definitely dimpling but less than a modern game for sure but a worry for sure.
Apron was on the game in that condition new.
Neil.
Just so Mirco does not get all the credit of chipping play fields, here is a problem on my Ghostbusters I will need to address.
Minor problem, to be sure. But there is always trouble in paradise.
Quoted from cottonm4:Just so Mirco does not get all the credit of chipping play fields, here is a problem on my Ghostbusters I will need to address.
Minor problem, to be sure. But there is always trouble in paradise.
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Those 2 drop targets are brutal for point blank airballs.
Anyone have a Quicksilver backglass for sale?
I'm either going to order a repro or try out one of those films from Europe if nothing pops up.
Hey friends! I am about to have an early mirco cleared and I am having a bit of trouble finding the information on the missing hole.
I’ve been staring at pictures for a while and it looks like it’s next to the oblong one on the bottom right?
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Quoted from supermoot:I’ve been staring at pictures for a while and it looks like it’s next to the oblong one on the bottom right?
Yes, that's correct. The hole is present in the second picture you posted (and the original pf). It's not there in the first one.
Quoted from ita47:Mine is missing the hole as well. What is that hole for? Does anyone have the size of the hole and the measurements of the location?
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Coil wiring.
20220316_163937 (resized).jpgQuoted from ita47:Mine is missing the hole as well. What is that hole for? Does anyone have the size of the hole and the measurements of the location?
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See my build thread.
Quoted from gdonovan:Coil wiring.
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Thanks gdonovan, I should have known that ☺️
Quoted from djblouw:See my build thread.
I found it, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-quicksilver-itch-from-scratch/page/2#post-5428701
Thanks Daane!
Could someone take a photo of the trough area of the game and underneath the switch?
Anyone had the ball bounce of the side rail back into the game and then do end of ball? I’m assuming a switch is being hit at the time the ball bounces back in.
What did you do to stop the ball bouncing back in?
If the ball bounces directly back into the trough, it should just kick it back out. It shouldn’t go to the next ball. You must have another switch closed somewhere on the playfield.
To prevent bouncebacks, you can either put some deadening foam on the shooter lane rail protector or add washers underneath the trough to raise it slightly. Or both.
Quoted from gdonovan:So what are people running for spinner patterns? Need to paint mine and get it done. Right now I'm thinking yellow with these graphics.
Suggestions?
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Where did you get that Nine Ball spinner from?
Quoted from cottonm4:Where did you get that Nine Ball spinner from?
Picture is just from PBResource.
Imported into Photoshop, resized, cleaned up the art, converted to a tiff, imported into Cameo 4 software, simplified the cut points in point editor and sent to cutting device.
Had some scrap vinyl left over from other projects, cost me nothing to do.
6e3f5d31cf945feb2b625cd130b13c55ee3462f9 (resized).jpgQuicksilver apron restored. Very happy with the results as I had not done one before. A big shout out to Gary gdonovan for going out of his way to help out with the decals & also with the installation & tips.
IMG_0604 (resized).JPGIMG_0605 (resized).jpgIMG_0753 (resized).JPGIMG_0772 (resized).jpgIMG_0774 (resized).JPGIMG_0771 (resized).JPGIMG_0824 (resized).jpgQuoted from Joydivision:Quicksilver apron restored. Very happy with the results as I had not done one before. A big shout out to Gary gdonovan for going out of his way to help out with the decals & also with the installation & tips.
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Looks fabulous! What shade of green did you use for your base coat?
Quoted from cottonm4:Looks fabulous! What shade of green did you use for your base coat?
Thanks! I used the Rust-Oleum "Meadow Green" it was a bit lighter green than an original quicksilver apron I had here to compare with, but a pretty close match.
This was only section of the original apron that could be used as a reference as it was preserved by a decal which I removed.
IMG_0804 (resized).JPGQuoted from Joydivision:Thanks! I used the Rust-Oleum "Meadow Green" it was a bit lighter green than an original quicksilver apron I had here to compare with, but a pretty close match.
This was only section of the original apron that could be used as a reference as it was preserved by a decal which I removed.
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Thanks
I restored my Big Game cab with Rust-o-leum Meadow Green.
Mirco rides again.
For those of you who are not following my Quicksilver build.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-build-is-proceeding-along/page/2#post-6945347
Quoted from cottonm4:Mirco rides again.
For those of you who are not following my Quicksilver build.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-build-is-proceeding-along/page/2#post-6945347
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Holy geez! How did that post break, was it tightened down with a drill or something?
Quoted from mrm_4:Holy geez! How did that post break, was it tightened down with a drill or something?
That looks like straight negligence over a faulty playfield.
Quoted from mrm_4:Holy geez! How did that post break, was it tightened down with a drill or something?
Tightened down by hand like all of the other posts.
Quoted from mrm_4:Holy geez! How did that post break, was it tightened down with a drill or something?
Don't explain the upper layer peeling like an orange.
Quoted from cottonm4:Tightened down by hand like all of the other posts.
Quoted from gdonovan:Don't explain the upper layer peeling like an orange.
I’m not one to defend Mirco I just saw the post and thought an impact wrench was used to install it. Checked the other thread out, that’s definitely a bummer cottonm4 all that pooling is enough to make you blow a gasket after all that work.
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m not one to defend Mirco I just saw the post and thought an impact wrench was used to install it. Checked the other thread out, that’s definitely a bummer cottonm4 all that pooling is enough to make you blow a gasket after all that work.
It is a 40 year old original post. It can be argued all day long that I over tightened the post. But my position is even if the post broke, if there would scratches in the paint, I could see paint scratching. But to have a section of paint peel away because of a post suggests to me an adhesion problem.
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m not one to defend Mirco I just saw the post and thought an impact wrench was used to install it. Checked the other thread out, that’s definitely a bummer cottonm4 all that pooling is enough to make you blow a gasket after all that work.
A defective post would look the same.
If the PF print and clear was too hard, it would crack and you would get a ring or circle with no impression.
Instead we are getting huge imprints where the post was and the clear and print tearing, that isn't normal.
I have a playfield as well, a gamble I took when ordering well aware it could go sideways.
I'm watching to see if Micro makes this right.
Quoted from cottonm4:It is a 40 year old original post. It can be argued all day long that I over tightened the post. But my position is even if the post broke, if there would scratches in the paint, I could see paint scratching. But to have a section of paint peel away because of a post suggests to me an adhesion problem.
This is a good point. I stand corrected. I was thinking the post was jammed into the playfield so hard it ripped the paint up but that wouldn't have been the same as the method of failure exhibited here. This looks very similar to the damage I've seen on most GNRs.
Quoted from Deez:This looks very similar to the damage I've seen on most GNRs.
Jersey Jack problems, correct?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/28#post-6127940
Dicky sure had his share of JJ type problems. See post #1356
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/28#post-6127940
This play field is/was supposed to be Mirco's corrected play field. How can you tell? Mirco is sanding his play fields with a coarser grit sanding belt so the paint can get a better grip to the play field wood.
The blue insert is supposed to be clear and transparent; That is what Stern used. But the heavier grit sanding belt leaves sanding lines in the surface. I asked Mirco about the sanding marks that are not supposed to be there. This is when he told me of his new sanding method. Basically, you buy a Mirco play field with this in mind, or you just don't buy. But it sure did not help me.
Ugh that makes me want to throw up cottonm4 Especially after all that hard work. I feel real bad for you right now.
I felt like I couldn't trust the Mirco standard clear, so that why I paid the extra money to have Kruzman reclear mine. And even after the upgraded clearcoat, I still installed the posts the same way HEP suggested, with a #6 washer underneath, so the edge of the post never makes contact with the playfield & doesn't cut into the clear. Something you may want to consider if you attempt again with another playfield.
Hard to tell but it looks like you were securing & screwing through the t-nuts from up underneath & cutting the screws to length. While this is a great method for making a rock-solid anchored post, it could be prone to breaking the post if overtightened. Not sure what happened here, but damn that's a shame.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:I still installed the posts the same way HEP suggested, with a #6 washer underneath, so the edge of the post never makes contact with the playfield & doesn't cut into the clear.
I saw your washer under the post trick. I am going to employ that. I tried one post with two #8 fender washers underneath. This allows me to slide a .008 feeler gauge underneath. The other post needed three washers.
The problem ( if it turns into a problem ) is without the base of the post absorbing ball impact, now all of the post impact is going to be absorbed by the centering hole inside the post and its two supporting ribs.
Nevertheless, posts are cheap when compared to play field paint repair. So I am going to be washering up like you did.
With washers, I can slide a .008" feeler gauge under the post. This leaves the post base up in the air and away from the play field surface. I wish I would have paid more attention when following your buiid thread.
This is the other reason. A little story first: I brought home a blown out, populated Quicksilver play field several years ago. It was worn to the wood. The other issue was that ALL play field posts were loose under the post screws and they caused a lot of wear under the posts.
I don't have that QS play field anymore, but I have something similar.
This is the right sling on my Robocop.
This is the rear post on the slingshot. This post is to just hold the rubber in place. It never sees any impact action. The area under the post looks good. No wear at all.
Here is the upper post from the same right hand sling. High impact post.
And here is the lower post on same sling. High impact post.
Take these two posts and the wear they have created and magnify this by 3 and you will have an idea of what I had with the blown QS play field.
This is years of ball impact. So, yeah, I am going to washer up from now on.
On a more positive "pinballs are fun to build" note, instead of cutting out a square piece of plywood for a speaker mount like Stern used, I modded the aftermarket speaker ring. Since is is not a restoration and is a new build, I figure why not?
Here is the speaker ring with some of the plastic cut away.
This allows the speaker to sit on top of the ring.
When installed it will look like this. I will be moving the volume control knob to another area so a clean mounting ring is all I need. I think it will look pretty classy.
Beware: Possible scam ad today on Marketplace? Anyhow, I bought the Quicksilver that is is pictured extensively. Maybe someone stole this guys account? The game is here in Washington State. Beware!
Quoted from MVCO:Beware: Possible scam ad today on Marketplace? Anyhow, I bought the Quicksilver that is is pictured extensively. Maybe someone stole this guys account? The game is here in Washington State. Beware!
What do you mean by "possible scam"?
Let me see if I If understand you correctly. You are saying that this Quicksilver that is currently for sale in the marketplace ( there is only one for sale, currently) is actually the same Quicksilver that is in your house? Is this what you are saying?
Let's break this down. You are here for 7 years and have bought nothing and sold nothing.
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This is the ad for the Quicksilver that is for sale.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/137735
The guy who has it for sale has been on Pinside for 5 years, has placed almost 300 for sale ads in that 5 years, and has sold 132 items. He has a Red heart next to his name showing that he is a contributing member to Pinside. And he has 100% positive feedback. Maybe someone has stole his account, as you say. Or maybe not.
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What say you show us some pictures on the Quicksilver you bought so we can make a comparison for ourselves? Show us a picture of this coin door and that shooter rod. Like this one the seller put up.
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Also, if you have the same Quicksilver, you should also have the little build sticker that Chrispin added to the inside of the cab that ID's Chrispin as the builder.
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Here is Crispin's last QS he built and sold.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/126763
And another QS that Crispin built and sold in 2019.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/88847
The problem is this: I know Chrispin built and sold 2 Quicksilvers. The Quicksilver in this current ad looks different than the other two. The unit that is for sale has all new boards. Maybe Crispin built a 3rd Quicksilver? I don't know.
Some pictures of yours might help clear things up.
Thank you.
Chrispin must have built a 3rd one? Anyway, mine does have that same tag indicating Chrispin built it. Bought it a few months ago from Chrispin. STI picked it up- and brought it to me in Tacoma, WA. Not home from work for pictures, but I wonder if maybe mine has regular coin entry inserts? I think it may, where this one for sale is different. Chrispin must have built another I guess.
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