Don't get put off by a few small issues emerging & want to get rid of your QS. As suggested find a local trustworthy repairer & get them to go through any issues, check everything & you should be pretty much trouble free so you can then really enjoy the game.

The target mounting issue Cottonm4 cited should definetly be addressed, not a big deal for someone that can do this kind of work.

One thing I noticed, the pop bumper rods are metal & not the plastic type uesd on QS, the mounting assemblies are correct.

Metal ones will work of course, but he plastic ones have a much faster action as the game was intended - plastic pops were one of the new key features for this game, I'm assuming the plastic ones could be fitted to the existing mechs here? someone will know in case you want to look at having the correct plastic pop bumpers installed in your game when having other work carried out.,

Here are the correct parts.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LFF3VSN2N/b-695-3u-classic-stern-bumper-parts-3-piece-kit?optionId=133643660&li=marketplace

Someone with good carpentry skills.

True, finding one person that's a good pinball tech & also has ideally old school carpentry skills would be more difficult.

Thanks for the tip. Do I need the entire 3 piece assembly like in the link you posted (pic 1), or do I just need the ring and rod to fit to the existing bumper mech? (pic 2)pop2 (resized).pngpop1 (resized).png

Wow. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat when it comes to builds, especially when you have the knowledge to make the modifications. Some really good ideas you have.

You’ll need all three parts to install properly. I just installed them on my build. This might give you a better idea.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build/page/5#post-6228006

I located the sale ad for your Quicksilver. I also located the sale ad for another scratch build Quicksilver that sold for big bucks. Both ads have pics on the lower side of the play field. You can compare one person's wiring job to another person's wiring job.

Even at its best, wiring can be a sloppy affair. If you have installed speakers to your computer, and added bluetooth, and added an external USB port, and added an extra monitor, and use a corded keyboard and mouse, you are probably familiar with the rat's nest of wiring that gets piled behind the computer tower.

Here is the other QS.

Screen Shot 2021-04-29 at 7.44.12 AM (resized).png
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Screen Shot 2021-04-29 at 7.44.56 AM (resized).png
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And now yours. It is not quite as neat. But everything works. That's what counts.

Screen Shot 2021-04-29 at 7.46.15 AM (resized).png
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I also think 4-place drop target on yours is connected with a Molex connector. It is hard to say by looking at the pic, but I think you are in luck. If so, it will make your problem easier to fix. If the drop assembly is Molex then it will be easy to remove from the play field and place on a work bench. If you have a friend who can do some basic soldering, with that drop assy. on the bench replacing all 3 diodes will be an easy task.

Screen Shot 2021-04-29 at 7.49.28 AM (resized).png

While the drop assy. is on the bench, the holes in the play filed that did not line up can be filled with some dowel rod. Then when you replace the drop assy. you will need to install it using the hacked screws the builder used; Put it back the same was it was; The only thing different will be holes are now filled with dowel rod.

Now, what you can do is install replacement screws into the drop assy. flanges. You can either leave the hacked screws installed or you can remove them, although there is no real need to. But your drop assy. will now be screwed down correctly with screws in the flanges. Just don't use screw that are too long.

I have had to fix a lot of issues collectors around here have after a job by dear ol' "Pooky". One was a six week odyssey tracking down intermittent issues in a fathom that boiled down to sloppy wiring done during the playfield swap. So don't feel bad Quicksilver1 - it's not an unusual occurrence from this builder.

Oh man I hope this one doesn't take six weeks!

So I've managed to convert a fully working Dracula into a semi-working QS. I've been getting help from djblouw but figured I'd throw this out to a wider audience as well.

The machine will boot with 7 flashes into attract mode. Nothing is registering as stuck closed in switch test. Still in attract mode, if I drop any 4-5 drop targets - that don't complete a bank i.e. any two each in the 3&4 banks - the kickout coil will fire like it's trying to clear a ball.

If I start a game things play normally till I knock down that combo of targets above, then the saucer will score and the coil will kick until I clear one of the banks. After that random things will happen, usually a phantom ball drain or a hard MPU reboot. Often after the reboot pressing the credit button will cause another reboot, and it will take a hard machine power off to be able to actually start a game.

I've poured over the W-Y and W-B strings to see anywhere I could have tied these two together, but I'm just not seeing anything with the wiring, diode orientation, or potential shorts. That said, me and the flow of electrons don't really get along, so I'm attaching some pics of all the switches in question in the hope that somebody spots something. I'm pulling my hair out on this one so any help is appreciated.

WB 4bank (resized).jpeg

WB rollovers (resized).jpeg

WY Drops (resized).jpeg

WY Kickout (resized).jpeg

WY standups (resized).jpeg

Should have mentioned that it's a new Nvram.weebly MPU and SDB. Same ones that worked perfectly in Dracula, and I have cleared the memory when changing the MPU to QS, and confirmed with Andrew that all settings are correct....

What are these 2 switches that both have a white/green wire on?

28b03713dfea16c0fa1ed56a9e6bb49096d9ca29 (resized).jpg

Bottom switch is the kickout, which is at the end of the W-Y along with the 3 bank. The top switch is the left spinner.

Stuck coin door switches, slam tilt shorting to the door, plumb tilt with a bad cap or the roll ball tilt with a corroded ball can cause weird issues like you describe. Maybe Cotton sees something in the pic above as well?

OK. I see that now. Here is a long shot.

Pull connector J-2 on your MPU. remove the W/B wire that controls your 4-place drop target. That is going to kill your 4-place drop and the 4 upper rollovers. Then see what happens with the 3-place drop with the 4-place disconnected. Then replace that W/B wire and remove the W/Y wire that feeds your 3-place drop target. This kills the 3-place drop and also the right rollover button and your 3 right stand up targets. Then see what happens with the 4-place drop.

Hoping by doing this you might be able to better isolate what is causing your problem. With one of the drops disconnected and if there is any change then you have most like found the culprit wire.

Since the kick-out and the 4-place top drop share the same W/G wire I'm thinking there something wrong on the W/G wire string. It is a guess.

Come back with what happens.

Selling a project quicksilver. Pm for details.

PM sent.

Yup. I had a problem in the coin door where a bare wire was touching the chassis and causing my upper left sling to fire on f2k. Drive me bananas for days because it was intermittent. Then things started to become clearer. O nly happened when the door was closed. Bam! Get your quarters out!

I forgot about the plumb cap as that's bit me before, so I replaced that with a new one, new diodes on the credit, slam, and tilt switches, and removed that badly corroded ball for fun. No love.

I pulled those wires as suggested and played around with the drops and played a few games. Took lots of notes but couldn't really see any patterns that made sense. Let's just sum that up as "weird shit continued to happen". I can type out some of the behavior if you're interested, but I spent some time with the multimeter and found something I think might not be right. It seems to me that these banks are linked somehow, as all the fun starts when the drops start dropping...

So I clipped a lead to each of the common wires on the DT assemblies and put the meter into continuity mode. With all the drop targets up, there is no beep. When i drop a single target on each bank, that AREN'T on the same row, no beep. But when I drop any two on the same row, i DO get continuity. See the super artistic visual aid below, where the orange arrows are dropped targets.

QS switch matrix (resized).jpg

In a correctly wired switch matrix, this wouldn't be happening right? Wrong? I don't know? I performed the same test with two drop banks that share a row on my Meteor, and I couldn't reproduce the results - no continuity. Probably explains why Meteor works and QS doesn't?

So if that's the case, where should I be looking next?

With the game OFF and the drop targets raised, are the diodes measuring ok on all the drop target switches or do you see any measuring a short circuit?
Post some pictures of the drop target switch stacks from side on.

Tough to get a focus, but I'm assuming you're looking for lugs or other things shorting together. I don't see anything touching. W-B and top lug look bad in that first pic but its just the angle...

All the diodes tested ok, no continuity between banded and non-banded legs.

4FAC4700-2D91-43E1-A53B-9A97B6382499 (resized).jpeg

E6D99DB4-6022-4080-9995-B0A85EE84862 (resized).jpeg

FBAA56A1-4664-4F1D-849A-E7BB4822E1BC (resized).jpeg

Ok so I solved it. Went back to the Meteor and studied those banks, came back and wired up both banks like this instead

Correct drop wiring (resized).jpeg:

Row wire to one switch leaf
Banded side of diode to other switch leaf
Non-banded side of diode, common wire, and column wire to the dead lug

Played about a dozen games since and not a single issue. Thanks to everyone who responded!

Ok. Cool. You were on the wrong side of the diode. I see it now.

Im gathering stuff to make a stargazer and was thinking about building a quicksilver shortly after. Is BGResto the only option for a backglass?

Also, has anyone gathered parts and want to get rid of them?

John Greatwich repros the Star Gazer back glass. BG Resto is only option for Quicksilver, AFAIK.

http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/backglasses.html

International and I’m not sure on the pricing but I’ve read many positive reviews.

This is why I'm always hesitant about buying a game with a pf swap, let alone a rebuild. Hell, what do you without a schematic on the new build? Even the official schematics have errors in them.

Well this wasn’t what I ever wanted to see on my Mirco pf... looks like the clear around the saucer is starting to crack. I can slightly lift it with my finger but it’s all still “there”.

I’ve probably put somewhere between 300-500 games on this since I got it flipping back in January. What’s the recommended method of stopping this before it gets too bad? Are there specifically die-cut Mylar pieces I can lay down (I have sheets if not). Should I put some clear hardener? If so, what? Thanks yall

B716C0BD-7644-4522-BB38-1E627EB926BD.jpeg

Do you have a kit from Kruzman? I’d suggest using that in this case.

I do not. What’s in there? I thought it was a drill kits for his clear jobs. This is Mirco’s stock clear. I let it cure for many months before installation and a ball didn’t hit it for about 10 months. Thought it was doing well until I found this.

I feel your pain. Mine did the same exact thing this morning but I have maybe 100 games on it - hell I'm still tuning the damn thing. My playfield also has been curing since last June so I wonder if these are from the same batch.

I have the Kruzman kit but is the idea to slightly lift the chip and try to glue it back down, or just use the needle to try to inject under it?A68763C4-59A1-4734-AF2D-AE74F80D9B23 (resized).jpeg

There is a glue and injectors also included. It’s intended to seal the clear back down after you drill a hole and chip an edge.

Yeah, the glue will wick under it some amount, so you shouldn’t need to lift.

But on an area like that, you will probably be able to see the repair—it won’t be seemless.

You can seal it back down with superglue. Get the watery runny stuff , medium time setting up, and it will flow right in the discrepant area. Push the lifted clear to the play field with a screw driver for about a minute.

And cut some mylar to fit the angled side that gets the impact.

Yeah this is Kruzman’s kit, along with the variety of dremel tips & cleaning stone he includes.

It’s basically some 3cc syringes & 18g/23g needles. You’ll want to use the 23g needles, as they are thinner & the drops are easier to control.

He included the glue with the label ripped off. But I knew what it was just by looking at the bottle. I already have some. It’s 1oz of super thin fast curing cyanoacrylate hobby glue. A 1oz bottle will last you forever. Source it yourself on Amazon.

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damn... shouild we ask Cliff do to a set of QS saucer protector? His new carbon steel are pretty nice on my WCS94

When I put my Mata Hari together, I searched for a saucer protector with no luck. I'm surprised he never made general sized saucer protectors for the early solid state games..... like the big saucer style on MH , the smaller saucer style on NGS, and various standard kickout holes.

I wouldn't want carbon fiber on my classic games though. It would have to be metal I could polish.

That would not be a bad idea. With the original, blown out QS play field I have that saucer area looks like shredded wood.

dropped a quick email to Cliff, he said he has nothing "generic" for scoop but if we get him a "template and measurements" he can definitely make it.

My QS is away at the moment, anyone else can get him the info?

no luck to get some info for Cliff to make a QS saucer protector?

Here you go.

Cliffy (resized).jpeg

thanks hopefully makes more sense to him than me

My Quicksilver luckily has been behaving for me (knock on wood) over the last week of play with no issues. I finally pulled off the elusive Quicksilver, 5x bonus countdown siren tonight while playing. I paid a shitload of money that I probably shouldn't have for this game and am probably the world's most technically incompetent pinball owner, but every time I get home from work and see her sitting in my spare room waiting to be played, I can't help but smile and be thankful she's mine. Now just need to invest in a decent recorder. This video looks like it was filmed with a Fisher Price camera.

Oh man. Great video. Now I can’t wait to play mine. Congrats on the QS siren! One of the best feeling achievements in pinball. But man, you gotta get the ball in that saucer too

Well I may have spoken too soon on my QS behaving. my right spinner has become stuck in the horizontal position allowing the ball to travel freely under it without spinning. After looking under the playfield I have found that the right spinner has some type of linkage with tape hanging from it that my left spinner does not. It appears that this linkage has gotten caught on top of a wire bundle behind it and not allowing it to drop back into a vertical orientation. It was easy enough to drop off the wires and reset with my finger, but can anyone tell me what it is there for? Why is it on the right side only? Is it necessary? Top two photos are my left spinner, the last three is the right.

ls1 (resized).JPGls2 (resized).JPGrs1 (resized).JPGrs2 (resized).JPGrs3 (resized).JPG

Not suppose to be there. Looks like it’s to add weight to the spinner linkage to force it to end up vertical (when it doesn’t snag on wires).

I’d remove it and see if the spinner just needs to be adjusted instead.

What he said.

It arrived like that when you bought it? That’s some hack.

Remove that weight & adjust the spinners. I would disassemble completely, then check that all the parts (bracket, rod, spinner arms, etc) are fine tuned to operate properly. If the spinner assembly is put together correctly, you do not need to add additional weight to the rod.

I just did the spinner adjustment on my build today. Perhaps it will help you out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build/page/8#post-6270425

you don't see that everyday... crazy sometime the amount of trouble people go through for a hack when bending the spinner back vertical doesn't take long at all?

Is the original manual missing the audit identification? The PDF copies online seem to be.

I have them listed from my disassembly of the code:

AUDIT 01 REPLAY LEVEL 1
AUDIT 02 REPLAY LEVEL 2
AUDIT 03 REPLAY LEVEL 3
AUDIT 04 CURRENT HSTD
AUDIT 05 CURRENT CREDITS
AUDIT 06 TOTAL PLAYS
AUDIT 07 TOTAL REPLAYS
AUDIT 08 HSTD SURPASSED
AUDIT 09 COIN 2
AUDIT 10 COIN 1
AUDIT 11 COIN 3
AUDIT 12 BALLS PLAYED
AUDIT 13 EXTRA BALLS
AUDIT 14 SPECIALS
AUDIT 15 N/U
AUDIT 16 REPLAY LEVEL 1 PASSED
AUDIT 17 REPLAY LEVEL 2 PASSED
AUDIT 18 REPLAY LEVEL 3 PASSED

Only if you're going fishing...