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(Topic ID: 154032)

Quicksilver Club all welcome


By TigerLaw

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by g94
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There are 1277 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 26.
#1251 12 days ago

You have an underpowered transformer that was only used in mpu100 pins. You need to find an mpu200 16B-6 transformer.

#1252 12 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

You have an underpowered transformer that was only used in mpu100 pins. You need to find an mpu200 16B-6 transformer.

Ok thanks... I'm sure they're not at hens teeth level yet, but the 16B-6 doesn't appear to be super common. Can anyone recommend a supplier that may be willing to ship OS?

#1253 10 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ok thanks... I'm sure they're not at hens teeth level yet, but the 16B-6 doesn't appear to be super common. Can anyone recommend a supplier that may be willing to ship OS?

Check with Big Daddy. He’s probably the only source for one.

https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

#1254 9 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ok thanks... I'm sure they're not at hens teeth level yet, but the 16B-6 doesn't appear to be super common. Can anyone recommend a supplier that may be willing to ship OS?

A lot of people have done Star Gazer and Quicksilver builds using mpu100 pins which have 16B-3 transformers, and these people are all looking for 16B-6 transformers.

#1255 9 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

A lot of people have done Star Gazer and Quicksilver builds using mpu100 pins which have 16B-3 transformers, and these people are all looking for 16B-6 transformers.

Uber rare, a bit of a Unicorn for sure at this point... it is easier to find a cheap Galaxy or Meteor than a standalone 16B-6 for sure...

#1256 9 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

A lot of people have done Star Gazer and Quicksilver builds using mpu100 pins which have 16B-3 transformers, and these people are all looking for 16B-6 transformers.

Is it the 49 volt portion for the solenoids that needs to be beefier? Maybe a standalone for that voltage would be a solution (although not factory).

What kind of amperage would that winding need to be? In a quick search I found a 48 volt 3 amp transformer for $40.

#1257 9 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Is it the 49 volt portion for the solenoids that needs to be beefier? Maybe a standalone for that voltage would be a solution (although not factory).
What kind of amperage would that winding need to be? In a quick search I found a 48 volt 3 amp transformer for $40.

The circuit that powers all solenoids is F4 on the rectifier board ID panel and also in the blueprints. On the MPU-100 pins with the 16B-3 the F4 circuit is called out for a 5 amp fuse.

On the 16B-6 for the MPU-200 pins, the F4 circuit is called out as a 7 amp or 7 1/2 amp fuse.

It would not take much to hook a separate transformer up and see if it worked. If it works then don't worry about not be being factory.

#1258 9 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ok thanks... I'm sure they're not at hens teeth level yet, but the 16B-6 doesn't appear to be super common. Can anyone recommend a supplier that may be willing to ship OS?

Could also just use one of these...

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ac-to-dc-48v-400w-switching_60683848719.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.151.4bf51e01XluTLb

#1259 9 days ago

Does a switching power supply work with solenoids? Also, this is DC and not the AC that the transformer puts out so would need to bring this 48vdc down to 43vdc but not with the rectifier board?

#1260 9 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Does a switching power supply work with solenoids? Also, this is DC and not the AC that the transformer puts out so would need to bring this 48vdc down to 43vdc but not with the rectifier board?

Yes, as with most modern games. Works solenoids.

The transformer steps AC voltages, which are rectified by the rectifier board. Yes AC comes out of the transformer, but the "Rectifier" creates DC voltage (direct current) from the AC of the transformer. The coils are powered by about 48vdc in my standard Seawitch, and I tested them dropping about 2-3vdc when flipping (4 flippers). I guess maybe a B=3 just drops off a bit more than that. The 48vdc switching power supply renders the 43-48vdc coming from the rectifier board, redundant. Replacing with a strong consistent supply.

You could use the 16-B-3 for 12vdc, 5vdc, 6Vac, but replace the rectifier output of 48vdc with the SMPS 48vdc thus providing solid coil power and leaving the transformer to provide everything else except the coil power.

You could also ditch the transformer all together if you wanted and use a PC ATX power supply along with the 48vdc SMPS. They have good 12vdc and 5vdc. GI can be run on 5vdc, instead of the raw unrectified 6Vac.

"43vdc" scribbled in everywhere in scats, edited?. I think it might have been meant to be 48vdc, but with the weak transformer, covering the sag by lowering the "tolerance". Bingo! now saggy weak transformer is "within spec" and not in need of replacment. Nominal. The B-6 would have less voltage drop (from 48v) than the B-3. Less voltage means less power. Hmmm mine reads 48vdc for coils here anyhow. Input is 240Vac @50hz.

The SMPS is adjustable anyhow, so you can turn it down to 43vdc if you really want. If it does not get overloaded you won't get big voltage drops anymore, anyway. You'd be setting it to 48vdc for the punchy effect you're looking for, I think.

What about the 16-B-8 ... what arcades are they from?

#1261 9 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Yes, as with most modern games. Works solenoids.
The transformer steps AC voltages, which are rectified by the rectifier board. Yes AC comes out of the transformer, but the "Rectifier" creates DC voltage (direct current) from the AC of the transformer. The coils are powered by about 48vdc in my standard Seawitch, and I tested them dropping about 2-3vdc when flipping (4 flippers). I guess maybe a B=3 just drops off a bit more than that. The 48vdc switching power supply renders the 43-48vdc coming from the rectifier board, redundant. Replacing with a strong consistent supply.
You could use the 16-B-3 for 12vdc, 5vdc, 6Vac, but replace the rectifier output of 48vdc with the SMPS 48vdc thus providing solid coil power and leaving the transformer to provide everything else except the coil power.
You could also ditch the transformer all together if you wanted and use a PC ATX power supply along with the 48vdc SMPS. They have good 12vdc and 5vdc. GI can be run on 5vdc, instead of the raw unrectified 6Vac.
"43vdc" scribbled in everywhere in scats, edited?. I think it might have been meant to be 48vdc, but with the weak transformer, covering the sag by lowering the "tolerance". Bingo! now saggy weak transformer is "within spec" and not in need of replacment. Nominal. The B-6 would have less voltage drop (from 48v) than the B-3. Less voltage means less power. Hmmm mine reads 48vdc for coils here anyhow. Input is 240Vac @50hz.
The SMPS is adjustable anyhow, so you can turn it down to 43vdc if you really want. If it does not get overloaded you won't get big voltage drops anymore, anyway. You'd be setting it to 48vdc for the punchy effect you're looking for, I think.
What about the 16-B-8 ... what arcades are they from?

I can’t find any information on the -8. I think I’d prefer to keep mine “original” with the -3 before I put a computer power supply in. Would definitely be advantageous though.

#1262 9 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I can’t find any information on the -8. I think I’d prefer to keep mine “original” with the -3 before I put a computer power supply in. Would definitely be advantageous though.

Well it's not original with the -3 anyway?. You really don't need to ditch the transformer for a PC power supply at all. You can just add on the SMPS for the 48v to give the solid coils. No less original than before really, just a boosted alternate coil supply.

#1263 9 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Well it's not original with the -3 anyway?. You really don't need to ditch the transformer for a PC power supply at all. You can just add on the SMPS for the 48v to give the solid coils. No less original than before really, just a boosted alternate coil supply.

True...

#1264 9 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I can’t find any information on the -8. I think I’d prefer to keep mine “original” with the -3 before I put a computer power supply in. Would definitely be advantageous though.

I think if you had the opportunity to play with the “hotter” solenoids you would change you mind after playing one 3-ball game.

#1265 9 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Yes, as with most modern games. Works solenoids.
The transformer steps AC voltages, which are rectified by the rectifier board. Yes AC comes out of the transformer, but the "Rectifier" creates DC voltage (direct current) from the AC of the transformer. The coils are powered by about 48vdc in my standard Seawitch, and I tested them dropping about 2-3vdc when flipping (4 flippers). I guess maybe a B=3 just drops off a bit more than that. The 48vdc switching power supply renders the 43-48vdc coming from the rectifier board, redundant. Replacing with a strong consistent supply.
You could use the 16-B-3 for 12vdc, 5vdc, 6Vac, but replace the rectifier output of 48vdc with the SMPS 48vdc thus providing solid coil power and leaving the transformer to provide everything else except the coil power.
You could also ditch the transformer all together if you wanted and use a PC ATX power supply along with the 48vdc SMPS. They have good 12vdc and 5vdc. GI can be run on 5vdc, instead of the raw unrectified 6Vac.
"43vdc" scribbled in everywhere in scats, edited?. I think it might have been meant to be 48vdc, but with the weak transformer, covering the sag by lowering the "tolerance". Bingo! now saggy weak transformer is "within spec" and not in need of replacment. Nominal. The B-6 would have less voltage drop (from 48v) than the B-3. Less voltage means less power. Hmmm mine reads 48vdc for coils here anyhow. Input is 240Vac @50hz.
The SMPS is adjustable anyhow, so you can turn it down to 43vdc if you really want. If it does not get overloaded you won't get big voltage drops anymore, anyway. You'd be setting it to 48vdc for the punchy effect you're looking for, I think.
What about the 16-B-8 ... what arcades are they from?

So, if you disconnected the blue/white solenoid power wire from the J-1 rectifier connector and hooked it up to this other power source what is the worst that could happen? Would there be a risk of burning up all of your solenoids?

This sounds like a possible solution because there are not enough 16B-6 units laying around to satisfy everyone.

#1266 9 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

So, if you disconnected the blue/white solenoid power wire from the J-1 rectifier connector and hooked it up to this other power source what is the worst that could happen? Would there be a risk of burning up all of your solenoids?
This sounds like a possible solution because there are not enough 16B-6 units laying around to satisfy everyone.

No, I don't think so if you provide the same voltage level as design. Coil resistance and voltage determines the draw. The rating of your power supply is about capability to supply. This is why I mean "over rating" the capacity of the supply is a good idea. Too much better than not enough.

Just maintain/set up the appropriate voltage level, Should be fine. Over-rating the chosen supply will mean minimal voltage drop, and consistent power level regardless of demand from Many coils simultaneously. Same setup as used in most modern games today. If the supply is Powerful, it just means that the voltage supplied will be close to the same no matter if one flipper fires or All coils fire, this provides for consistent power at all times.

I wonder, hotter coils with B-3 .... wouldn't that mean more voltage drop off with use, and thereby more fluctuation between single flips and multiple action? . Less consistency than with the regular coils? . Like, more power on single hits, yes, but bigger drop off in voltage (power) with high demand? ... I feel this could have more potential for negative effects, than fitting strong 42-48vdc SMPS would.

SMPS could sit neatly in base of cabinet just behind the transformer.

#1267 8 days ago

Just be sure to fuse the flippers if you do this. They are fused by F4 on the rectifier board, which is eliminated with this mod.

#1268 8 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Just be sure to fuse the flippers if you do this. They are fused by F4 on the rectifier board, which is eliminated with this mod.

Absolutely. Also the feed to the supply, ensure it is fused as well.

#1269 3 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675
I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

Folks, It's happening. I'm having the Quicksilver insert board cut this week, or next week at the latest. I have hisokajp, Classic_Stern, Xenon75, and JR99SVT all earmarked for a Quicksilver insert. You will be the first produced and shipped. If someone else wanted to be a part of the initial run, please reconnect with me, as I understand that those of you in Australia have found a local supplier at 2x my asking price of $250USD. I'm not opposed to international shipping and will do whatever I can to accommodate. I'm asking $250 for the cut, game-specific insert panel and that you pay the actual shipping cost to your location. If you want to combine Star Gazer and Quicksilver I will also work to minimize shipping costs.

If anyone else wants one, please let me know soon as once they're cut it becomes a lot more time consuming to make more. I need requests for 4 insert boards to justify re-running them after the initial run. If you're on the fence, now is the time to send me a PM, or wait until the next opportunity to make another batch of them.

In addition, I am eager to work on the next title insert board. Let me know what you'd like to have made, and once I have four committed people, I can begin cutting them. At least with my current setup. Please PM me directly on pinside pinfixer . Your email address would also be helpful for future communications.

#1270 3 days ago

Quicksilver light panel that I found along the way, in PDF and SVG. Cut it yourself for $25 and some time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vxg7m3kmzzb2nmd/Quicksilver_light_box.zip?dl=0

#1271 3 days ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Quicksilver light panel that I found along the way, in PDF and SVG. Cut it yourself for $25 and some time.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vxg7m3kmzzb2nmd/Quicksilver_light_box.zip?dl=0

Thank you ! I made one for my Star Gazer and it only took a couple of hours and a $20.00 piece of plywood. And some paint.

#1272 2 days ago

I finally found the time to turn my Nine Ball back box into a Quicksilver back box.

I still need to color sand it and buff it out.

IMG_4749 (resized).JPG

If I can get some warm weather this after noon I will have completed the rework on the left side of the cab; I hosed the left side up so bad that was no saving it. I had to buy an extra left side stencil from Pinball Pimp.

#1273 2 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I had to buy an extra left side stencil from Pinball Pimp.

Anyone ever make re-usable stencils out of the other stencils? My plan would be to buy the stencils, put them on thin plywood, cut around them, use that plywood as the stencil (to get the correct overspray), etc.

I've done this for a self-made stencil on a cab that just needed the front painted and it worked pretty well other than my sloppy cutting - a straight line became a SLIGHT hiccup.

As a bonus you'd only have to use one stencil to cut left-right if the sides were the same. Might be a lot of extra work for little return though, maybe I should just learn to love the tight lines instead.

#1274 2 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Anyone ever make re-usable stencils out of the other stencils? My plan would be to buy the stencils, put them on thin plywood, cut around them, use that plywood as the stencil (to get the correct overspray), etc.
I've done this for a self-made stencil on a cab that just needed the front painted and it worked pretty well other than my sloppy cutting - a straight line became a SLIGHT hiccup.
As a bonus you'd only have to use one stencil to cut left-right if the sides were the same. Might be a lot of extra work for little return though, maybe I should just learn to love the tight lines instead.

I made my own stencils for Big Game, but they are fairly simplistic. I did get the overspray action of which you speak. I used heavy duty poster paper to make them with.

It took two stencils to make. One for black and one for white. And it took several hours of work, too.

I am toying with the idea of doing the same for Seawitch, but it would be more difficult than Big Game.

But Quicksilver? You are talking gobs of work.

#1275 2 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you ! I made one for my Star Gazer and it only took a couple of hours and a $20.00 piece of plywood. And some paint.

Yep. This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Prefer to spend that money on tools like a plunge router to do the job myself. Then I have what I need for future projects. I just need to buy a new bit for my router.

I noticed you had a thread about using MDF vs MDO board for this, but I couldn’t find the MDO. Going to just use the MDF I think.

#1276 2 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Yep. This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Prefer to spend that money on tools like a plunge router to do the job myself. Then I have what I need for future projects. I just need to buy a new bit for my router.
I noticed you had a thread about using MDF vs MDO board for this, but I couldn’t find the MDO. Going to just use the MDF I think.

I have so many tools just from doing the job myself. Sometimes, a tool may be never be used again, but most of the time they keep coming in handy.

For $200.00 I can buy a drill motor and bits , a plunge router, a saber saw, and a couple of saw horses and be in business.

#1277 23 hours ago
Quoted from slochar:

Anyone ever make re-usable stencils out of the other stencils? My plan would be to buy the stencils, put them on thin plywood, cut around them, use that plywood as the stencil (to get the correct overspray), etc.

My plan is to start restoring my QS in the upcoming months (hopefully before the end of the year). Similar to previous restorations (documented somewhere here on PS) I will make my own stencils: scan the existing art, stitch the scans together using Photoshop and use these as a basis to create vector-based artwork in Illustrator. These files are 100% accurate. As always I don't mind sharing these files, just keep an eye on the restoration section and drop me a request in due time.

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