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(Topic ID: 154032)

Quicksilver Club all welcome


By TigerLaw

4 years ago



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  • 1,277 posts
  • 121 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by g94
  • Topic is favorited by 45 Pinsiders

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There are 1277 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 26.
#1201 55 days ago

Breaking out the jigs it looks like I did one for GI lighting and controlled lamp power and then one for solenoids, switches and lights. If you want it more separated I can probably do all lighting on one and sol/switches on the other like with S/G. Also I am doing plugs for drop targets.

Shawn

#1202 55 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Breaking out the jigs it looks like I did one for GI lighting and controlled lamp power and then one for solenoids, switches and lights. If you want it more separated I can probably do all lighting on one and sol/switches on the other like with S/G. Also I am doing plugs for drop targets.
Shawn

I think how you had it was pretty manageable. If it’s not a ton of more work for you, feel free to break them down a little more.

And the plugs for the drop targets was an awesome idea.

Keep up the good work.

#1203 54 days ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-coil-issue

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I dont see any issues on the playfield

#1204 54 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Christopher at pinball replacement parts make some 555 lamp boards for Big Game, Catacomb, Cheetah, Flight 2000, Freefall, Meteor, and Nine Ball. I have them in my Big Game, Catacomb and Nine Ball. They work great.
How many would be interested is getting a 555 lamp board for the Quicksilvers you are restoring or the Quicksilvers you are building. Obviously, I would like one of these for my QS build. There is safety in numbers.
Anybody interested?
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=4
[quoted image]

I’m interested in a set for Quicksilver and Star Gazer.

#1205 53 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I’m interested in a set for Quicksilver and Star Gazer.

I just sent him an email. Please stand by.

#1206 48 days ago

So here's the breakdown. The play field harness will come in two parts. The first will be the three light plugs(A5J1, 2 and 3) and A2J1. That gives you all your GI and controlled lamp power, power to the flippers and fuse and all the controlled lamp wires plus the backboard pigtail.

The second part will have all the solenoid and switch plugs and wires.

#1207 48 days ago

I am nearly done with the primer coats on my cabinet, I am still undecided on the best base coat color for the gray spray paint... Any recommendation for those that have repainted their QS?

#1208 48 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Let's call the original color "nominal white"

From what I discovered about the pinball industry, the white they use is called process white.

#1209 48 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I am nearly done with the primer coats on my cabinet, I am still undecided on the best base coat color for the gray spray paint... Any recommendation for those that have repainted their QS?

Go to auto paint store and look through the color chips and find one you like. There are so many shades of sliver to choose from. I went with a silver from Suburu. the restore guy I know used a Honda Silver. Both look good.

I went with a paint brand called Omni. It is a two part base and catalyst mix, but the nice thing about this paint if you put it back in the can, it will keep forever and not set up in the can.

#1210 47 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I am nearly done with the primer coats on my cabinet, I am still undecided on the best base coat color for the gray spray paint... Any recommendation for those that have repainted their QS?

I’ve you’re going spray can, you can look at the test samples I tried. We are at the same point. I just have one final coat of primer to put on & then I’m ready to spray base coat.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build#post-5815181

#1211 47 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Go to auto paint store and look through the color chips and find one you like. There are so many shades of sliver to choose from. I went with a silver from Suburu. the restore guy I know used a Honda Silver. Both look good.

I went with a paint brand called Omni. It is a two part base and catalyst mix, but the nice thing about this paint if you put it back in the can, it will keep forever and not set up in the can.

unfortunately I have to do this with rattle cans so i do not have the luxury of the auto paint store to get can of paint.

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I’ve you’re going spray can, you can look at the test samples I tried. We are at the same point. I just have one final coat of primer to put on & then I’m ready to spray base coat.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build#post-5815181

that is SUPER helpful thank you! I may need a couple more coat of primer on the outside to get a nice smooth surface. I wasn't thinking of doing a clear coat on top using spray can but it looks like you are?

#1212 47 days ago

I didn't opt for any fancy reflective silver paint for my scratch build and I'm really happy with the way it turned out, with the exception of trying to use that same Montana varnish. I followed the instructions to a T and still dealt with repeated coats of haziness. I got it to a point I'm OK with but ultimately there's still some spots I'm not super pleased about.

Here's the paints I used:
https://bindersart.com/home/3529-montana-gold-wall-400ml-spray-paint-4048500285264.html
-- Coverage was hard to get evenly. I didn't realize you could get different caps and the one it came with is LOW flow. Base coating would've been easier with a different cap, which are available.
https://bindersart.com/home/3498-montana-gold-shock-black-400ml-spray-paint-4048500285783.html
--Went on like a dream. Zero complaints. Stencils peeled up very clean within minutes of application.
https://bindersart.com/home/3523-montana-gold-t1000-varnish-400ml-spray-paint-4048500376351.html
--Here's a pic of the cloudiness I kept combating. Sanding and more coats would help but then another spot would cloud up. Second image is my "OK, I'm afraid to try again and make this any worse" result. Honestly when I look at it now a couple months later, it's totally fine. I'm very much of an amateur at this stuff, so take my experience with a grain of salt.

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#1213 47 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

unfortunately I have to do this with rattle cans so i do not have the luxury of the auto paint store to get can of paint.

The automotive paint supply I go to can make up custom colors of rattle can paint. Not the cheapest at around $20.00 a can. But if you can't find the color you want anywhere else, this is something to keep in mind. I am assuming that many auto paint supply shops can do custom colors in rattle cans, but it just an assumption.

#1214 47 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Here's a pic of the cloudiness I kept combating. Sanding and more coats would help but then another spot would cloud up.

That looks like what is called paint blushing. That can happen on a damp day of even high humidity. It is also a sign of paint drying too fast.

The blush that is showing in your lower picture is all under the side rail and will be hidden and of no issue.

Screen Shot 2020-09-08 at 9.49.10 AM (resized).png

You are better off than me. I had small defect on my left side and tried to spot it in. Silver does not like to spot in very well. It turned into a disaster. I now have to contact Pinball Pimp to buy just the left side stencil, sand the left side down and do it all again.

#1215 47 days ago

Yeah, Texas in the summer is not the best time to try and do it. I set up in a room with temp and humidity control but I likely lost the battle of having to ventilate, though it was also drying really fast since I had air blowing in the space. Who knows, but I’m waiting til cooler days to try and do my next game.

Actually that’s not a defect under the siderail area. I just didn’t paint that high up since it would never be seen (that paint is was starting to add up).

#1216 47 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

that is SUPER helpful thank you! I may need a couple more coat of primer on the outside to get a nice smooth surface. I wasn't thinking of doing a clear coat on top using spray can but it looks like you are?

I did not use the Montana spray varnish on my previous build. As a result, I'm extremely paranoid that my pristine paint job will get scratched. So this time I am definitely spraying varnish to protect the cabinet. Some protection is better than none. The way I look at it, I try to make it look as best I can. I'm not setup for automotive spray guns with proper ventilation & spray rooms, so the cabinets are never going to be a pristine glass finish. I'm fine with that.

I tested those Montana Gold paint cans. I did not care for the way they sprayed. While its true you can use different caps to adjust the paint flow, the amount of pressure in the can makes a huge difference too. Molotow cans are low pressure, Montana are medium pressure. With standard caps, the Molotow low pressure cans are just easier to control IMO. They are expensive tho. And the last thing you want is to put a fat cap on. The can will puke paint & ruin your paint job. Light coats with multiple passes is the way to go.

Quoted from play_pinball:

--Here's a pic of the cloudiness I kept combating. Sanding and more coats would help but then another spot would cloud up. Second image is my "OK, I'm afraid to try again and make this any worse" result. Honestly when I look at it now a couple months later, it's totally fine. I'm very much of an amateur at this stuff, so take my experience with a grain of salt.[quoted image]

This concerns me a bit about the varnish. Were you getting cloudiness after the coat dried, or was this related to your sanding? I wasn't planning on sanding at all. Just spraying a couple built up coats for protection. I'd be very concerned I'd sand to far, cut into the raised edges of the stencil layer, or worse into the silver base coat.

I know temperature & humidity makes a huge difference when spraying this stuff. I'm in a hot dry climate.

#1217 47 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

This concerns me a bit about the varnish. Were you getting cloudiness after the coat dried, or was this related to your sanding? I wasn't planning on sanding at all. Just spraying a couple built up coats for protection. I'd be very concerned I'd sand to far, cut into the raised edges of the stencil layer, or worse into the silver base coat.
I know temperature & humidity makes a huge difference when spraying this stuff. I'm in a hot dry climate.

It was after the varnish would dry. The first time I sanded I did go too far and had to recover some of the black. Thankfully this game is so basic in the artwork that wasn't too hard to do with just blue tape.

After that, one coat would be super hazy, then I'd VERY lightly sand and add another coat and it'd look much better but other spots would haze out. It was back and forth like that about 6-7 times until I finally got a "good" one that I wasn't going try over. I'm not sure if the sanding helped or hurt, honestly. I tested some areas without sanding it and cleared up with another coat. Again, I'm not a pro.

According to the instructions, that varnish works best between something like 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, iirc.

#1218 47 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

It was after the varnish would dry. The first time I sanded I did go too far and had to recover some of the black. Thankfully this game is so basic in the artwork that wasn't too hard to do with just blue tape.
After that, one coat would be super hazy, then I'd VERY lightly sand and add another coat and it'd look much better but other spots would haze out. It was back and forth like that about 6-7 times until I finally got a "good" one that I wasn't going try over. I'm not sure if the sanding helped or hurt, honestly. I tested some areas without sanding it and cleared up with another coat. Again, I'm not a pro.
According to the instructions, that varnish works best between something like 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, iirc.

If it is too hot your paint can dry in midair and will wind up looking like sandpaper. If it is too cold out, the paint might not flow as well and you can wind up with orange peel surface. Orange peel can happen at any temp but more susceptible when cold.

#1219 47 days ago

My first coat of "wall" gray I had some roughness, likely from being too hot. I did that portion in an old helicopter hanger at work when everything was in lockdown mode. Waited for cooler nights to do subsequent coats. I moved for the varnish and it dried smooth, so sounds like it was blushing from drying too fast, maybe from too much airflow?

#1220 47 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

My first coat of "wall" gray I had some roughness, likely from being too hot. I did that portion in an old helicopter hanger at work when everything was in lockdown mode. Waited for cooler nights to do subsequent coats. I moved for the varnish and it dried smooth, so sounds like it was blushing from drying too fast, maybe from too much airflow?

Air flow will not hurt you. I have stood in front of too many side draft waterfall air cabinets.

#1221 47 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Second image is my "OK, I'm afraid to try again and make this any worse" result.

The best quote I have ever read on this site is "The enemy of good is better." Sage words IMHO.

Quoted from play_pinball:

Yeah, Texas in the summer is not the best time to try and do it.

Learned that lesson myself. The hard way.

BTW, I think it looks fantastic!

1 week later
#1222 34 days ago

Looks like I just joined the club. I picked up this one for $160.
Had to wait months to even see it, but I think I got a steal of a deal here. It mostly works fine except for a few things.

My goals for this thing...
Paint the cabinet to it's original silver color. (I need to figure out the stencil situation though. Any guidance on exact silver paint color would be nice.)
Fix the pop bumper switches being gapped to closely(I'm assuming that's the problem. Slapping the flippers set them off).
Replace the caps on the sound board, replace entire board if that doesn't work
Clean and wax the playfield
Replace the bulbs, rubbers, pinball, plastic caps, ext
Polish all metal parts on the exterior
Bake the plastics between glass sheets @170 F for 45mins to flatten them out
Adjust the bottom player 3 & 4 score displays to properly fit in the glass window

Is there anything else I should look at or fix to prevent any major issues from popping up? I'm a computer tech by trade, but it normally just extends to replacing boards. I have some friends into soldering so if that's needed I should be able to get some "supervision".

Don't mind the cluttered garage. Having a yard sale this weekend so we're prepping for that
I don't normally take on projects so this should be interesting. I'm not sure how rare this thing is, but a few posts mentioned it was considered pretty rare. I'm going to make my way through these posts and see what I can learn about this machine. Anyway...glad to be here.

IMG_1576 (resized).JPGIMG_1577 (resized).JPG

#1223 34 days ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

Looks like I just joined the club. I picked up this one for $160.
Had to wait months to even see it, but I think I got a steal of a deal here. It mostly works fine except for a few things.
My goals for this thing...
Paint the cabinet to it's original silver color. (I need to figure out the stencil situation though. Any guidance on exact silver paint color would be nice.)
Fix the pop bumper switches being gapped to closely(I'm assuming that's the problem. Slapping the flippers set them off).
Replace the caps on the sound board, replace entire board if that doesn't work
Clean and wax the playfield
Replace the bulbs, rubbers, pinball, plastic caps, ext
Polish all metal parts on the exterior
Bake the plastics between glass sheets @170 F for 45mins to flatten them out
Adjust the bottom player 3 & 4 score displays to properly fit in the glass window
Is there anything else I should look at or fix to prevent any major issues from popping up? I'm a computer tech by trade, but it normally just extends to replacing boards. I have some friends into soldering so if that's needed I should be able to get some "supervision".
Don't mind the cluttered garage. Having a yard sale this weekend so we're prepping for that
I don't normally take on projects so this should be interesting. I'm not sure how rare this thing is, but a few posts mentioned it was considered pretty rare. I'm going to make my way through these posts and see what I can learn about this machine. Anyway...glad to be here.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You got a steal of a deal !!!!!!!!! super nice apron on there.

Everything you need to make this one shine is available, is in readily available.

Go thru some old posts. Look around and come back.

#1224 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You got a steal of a deal !!!!!!!!! super nice apron on there.
Everything you need to make this one shine is available, is in readily available.
Go thru some old posts. Look around and come back.

The apron is flawless. It's weird how great it looks for how old it is.
I'll definitely be doing some reading tonight. Thanks!

My only concern is the playfield. I have a 72' Gottlieb Grand Slam and I never could get the playfield as clean as I'd like. Maybe I'm not using the right things or using enough elbow grease. I just don't want to make things worse. I'm not super comfortable taking apart the entire playfield, but yeah I'm going to do what I can to make it shine.

Added 28 days ago:

*Almost flawless

#1225 34 days ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

The apron is flawless. It's weird how great it looks for how old it is.
I'll definitely be doing some reading tonight. Thanks!
My only concern is the playfield. I have a 72' Gottlieb Grand Slam and I never could get the playfield as clean as I'd like. Maybe I'm not using the right things or using enough elbow grease. I just don't want to make things worse. I'm not super comfortable taking apart the entire playfield, but yeah I'm going to do what I can to make it shine.

Don't bother to try passing "GO". Just get a repro Quicksilver Play Field from Mirco.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/02551-quicksilver-playfield

$800.00 to your door. You will spend $600.00 getting your play field restored. You got a bargain. You can afford it.

Then go buy yourself a Brother label maker and mark all of your play field wiring to prepare to swap it to your new play field. Or just play the hell out of as it is.

#1227 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Don't bother to try passing "GO". Just get a repro Quicksilver Play Field from Mirco.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/02551-quicksilver-playfield
$800.00 to your door. You will spend $600.00 getting your play field restored. You got a bargain. You can afford it.
Then go buy yourself a Brother label maker and mark all of your play field wiring to prepare to swap it to your new play field. Or just play the hell out of as it is.

I'm trying to keep it as cheap as I can. Good deal for sure, but I just don't have the funds to fully restore this thing. I'll probably do the things I mentioned and just play it as is. I have a 2.5 year old, and a wife that was up my backside about buying it in the first place Hard to find time these days

I'm not really a collector, I just happened to find this thing for cheap and it mostly worked.
If someone wanted to trade for a really good shape more modern machine I'd probably take them up on it.
I'm just not much for working on these things. Love playing them though

#1228 34 days ago

I'm in.

IMG_7322 (resized).jpgIMG_7323 (resized).jpg
#1229 33 days ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

I'm in.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Damn thats crazy neat, restored I'm assuming?

#1230 33 days ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

Looks like I just joined the club. I picked up this one for $160.
Had to wait months to even see it, but I think I got a steal of a deal here. It mostly works fine except for a few things.
My goals for this thing...
Paint the cabinet to it's original silver color. (I need to figure out the stencil situation though. Any guidance on exact silver paint color would be nice.)
Fix the pop bumper switches being gapped to closely(I'm assuming that's the problem. Slapping the flippers set them off).
Replace the caps on the sound board, replace entire board if that doesn't work
Clean and wax the playfield
Replace the bulbs, rubbers, pinball, plastic caps, ext
Polish all metal parts on the exterior
Bake the plastics between glass sheets @170 F for 45mins to flatten them out
Adjust the bottom player 3 & 4 score displays to properly fit in the glass window
Is there anything else I should look at or fix to prevent any major issues from popping up? I'm a computer tech by trade, but it normally just extends to replacing boards. I have some friends into soldering so if that's needed I should be able to get some "supervision".
Don't mind the cluttered garage. Having a yard sale this weekend so we're prepping for that
I don't normally take on projects so this should be interesting. I'm not sure how rare this thing is, but a few posts mentioned it was considered pretty rare. I'm going to make my way through these posts and see what I can learn about this machine. Anyway...glad to be here.
[quoted image][quoted image]

$160 bucks hahaha. How awesome is that!!!!!! congrats. I thought I got a good deal on mine... might have to go back and ask for a partial refund

#1231 33 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Damn thats crazy neat, restored I'm assuming?

Yes, Keith from A Priates Life Co. did this and a Catacomb for me.

#1232 33 days ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Yes, Keith from A Priates Life Co. did this and a Catacomb for me.

The white 2X insert looks like Mirco. Correct?

#1233 33 days ago

Yes

#1234 33 days ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Yes, Keith from A Priates Life Co. did this and a Catacomb for me.

That playfield looks amazing.

#1235 33 days ago
Quoted from Teamhex:

I picked up this one for $160

scanners.gif

Good lord! Score of the century! Congrats!

#1236 28 days ago

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675

I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

#1237 28 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675
I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

Im in

#1238 28 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675
I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

I would be interested but the price is of utmost importance. Can you do it for less then 100?

#1239 28 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675
I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

I'm in. International shipping, but that's okay.

#1240 27 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675

I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

I just wish it was reproduced using plywood instead of similar cheap MDF like they did back then

1 week later
#1241 21 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Some of you may have seen my classified ad for the Star Gazer insert board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96675
I have been asked to reproduce the Quicksilver insert board. This is a huge time saver if you are trying to convert another Stern title, or scratch build. If I can get at least four committed buyers for the insert board, I will reproduce Quicksilver as well. Feel free to PM me directly if you have interest. If you have tried to make one from scratch you can attest to the work needed to cut these out. Made from 3/4" MDF board painted white exactly as original. This is the wood with cutouts for displays and lamp sockets.

I'm in

#1242 21 days ago

did anyone do ball guides and wireframes?

#1243 21 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

did anyone do ball guides and wireframes?

DM djblouw

#1244 21 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I'm in. International shipping, but that's okay.

I've bumped into a guy local whom is making them, so saving alot on intl. shipping. Sorry to chime in then pull out, but I've managed to source something.

#1245 21 days ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

I would be interested but the price is of utmost importance. Can you do it for less then 100?

I’d be in for a Star Gazer and Quicksilver, if they were $100 each.

#1246 18 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I’d be in for a Star Gazer and Quicksilver, if they were $100 each.

Folks, I'd buy them myself at $100 each. Without a long explanation of my asking price (and enough have purchased to know I'm within reason) by the time you make the radiused notches for the lock bar, angle cuts at the bottom, route out the display holes & latch, drill the lamp socket holes, and then paint them white to match the original you probably understand why the cost is where I'm at. Not withstanding the cost of raw materials, cost of making a jig which ensures predictable duplication, carbide bits, and special plate for my router to follow the jig. Without exception those who have purchased from me in the past have reiterated that they could make the insert panel themselves, but it wasn't worth the hassle, time, and trouble to make a one-off insert panel for a few bucks less than they would have invested. I want to be fair to the market and also fair to myself. The small profit I do make goes right back into the next insert panel jig, which if all goes to plan will be Seawitch and any future title that drives scratch builds.

If it were easy, others would be making them and undercutting my price. Competition is the fuel for capitalism. I'd be able to produce them for $100 each IF I were able to sell 100 of each title. So far I am at 1/10th of that, if that. I'm not asking you to pay above your comfort level, rather give an insight to the reason why I've priced them where I did. It seems that some are quick to say "I could make 'em for 1/2 that!" without a thorough understanding of the time and effort involved in creating them.

Thank you in advance for letting me express my side....... If you have put your name on the Quicksilver list, rest assured I am cutting them and working through the manufacturing process. Expect an email or PM in the next few weeks regarding payment and shipping information.

#1247 18 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Folks, I'd buy them myself at $100 each. Without a long explanation of my asking price (and enough have purchased to know I'm within reason) by the time you make the radiused notches for the lock bar, angle cuts at the bottom, route out the display holes & latch, drill the lamp socket holes, and then paint them white to match the original you probably understand why the cost is where I'm at. Not withstanding the cost of raw materials, cost of making a jig which ensures predictable duplication, carbide bits, and special plate for my router to follow the jig. Without exception those who have purchased from me in the past have reiterated that they could make the insert panel themselves, but it wasn't worth the hassle, time, and trouble to make a one-off insert panel for a few bucks less than they would have invested. I want to be fair to the market and also fair to myself. The small profit I do make goes right back into the next insert panel jig, which if all goes to plan will be Seawitch and any future title that drives scratch builds.
If it were easy, others would be making them and undercutting my price. Competition is the fuel for capitalism. I'd be able to produce them for $100 each IF I were able to sell 100 of each title. So far I am at 1/10th of that, if that. I'm not asking you to pay above your comfort level, rather give an insight to the reason why I've priced them where I did. It seems that some are quick to say "I could make 'em for 1/2 that!" without a thorough understanding of the time and effort involved in creating them.
Thank you in advance for letting me express my side....... If you have put your name on the Quicksilver list, rest assured I am cutting them and working through the manufacturing process. Expect an email or PM in the next few weeks regarding payment and shipping information.

There's a couple of us contacted by another Oz pinhead whom said he could make them for us, has equipment etc., it is costing us double that to get them done here (at what I trust is essentially "mates rates")... we are really just saving on shipping costs, which are quite substantial for us.

#1248 17 days ago

So I was watching a Slam Tilt stream recently and noticed the slings and in particular the flippers were much more powerful than mine. I've recently finished restoring my Quicksilver and am still in the process of tweaking it, but I feel I'm a long way from having it right. It wasn't playing that well when I first bought it so don't have a great comparison. It plays well, but lacks the zing of other Quicksilvers I've seen

The flippers are rebuilt with new coils/sleeves and the switches couldn't be gapped any better. Where else can I look? Voltage? And the slings... they just feel quite sluggish. Everything was cleaned and polished, new coil sleeves with original coils. There may have been some movement in the mech but nothing dire. Are repro Stern slingshots available?

#1249 17 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

So I was watching a Slam Tilt stream recently and noticed the slings and in particular the flippers were much more powerful than mine. I've recently finished restoring my Quicksilver and am still in the process of tweaking it, but I feel I'm a long way from having it right. It wasn't playing that well when I first bought it so don't have a great comparison. It plays well, but lacks the zing of other Quicksilvers I've seen
The flippers are rebuilt with new coils/sleeves and the switches couldn't be gapped any better. Where else can I look? Voltage? And the slings... they just feel quite sluggish. Everything was cleaned and polished, new coil sleeves with original coils. There may have been some movement in the mech but nothing dire. Are repro Stern slingshots available?

Which transformer does your game have?

#1250 17 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Which transformer does your game have?

16B-3

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